Відео

Nothing. I'm not sponsored by Bambulab and so far I got zero perks from them.

@ So why the heavy advertising?

Haha, you're right!! I mostly enjoy the printing and putting it all together part. If at the end it also works it's a plus for me.

Obrigado pelo comentário! O relógio é relativamente preciso, mas a versão que criei depende apenas do relógio onboard do Arduino. Para torná-lo mais preciso, você precisa usar um módulo Real-Time Clock (RTC) como o DS3231, conectá-lo ao seu Arduino e escrever código para ler o tempo preciso do RTC e exibi-lo no seu dispositivo de exibição escolhido, essencialmente configurando o relógio interno do Arduino para corresponder à cronometragem precisa do RTC. Este foi um dos projetos mais divertidos que fiz.

Thanks!

@3DTimeSculpt your welcome it realy is plus sea turtels are based

Good. Then you can easily print this model as well.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Sorry but I didn’t have a marble immediately available

@@3DTimeSculpt in all that time printing/ designing and you couldnt find a dang marble? clickbait.

Appreciate it!

Thanks for sharing

You can find the model here: makerworld.com/en/models/90409

I created a new profile by running a calibration of the filament in BambuStudio. I also ran a max volumetric flow test by printing this model and calculating the flow: www.printables.com/model/318350-bambu-slicer-max-flow-test-tower-for-x1c

you calibrate your filament

I calibrated the filament using the Calibration tab in BambuStudio. Moreover I tuned the Max Volumetric speed by using this model: www.printables.com/model/318350-bambu-slicer-max-flow-test-tower-for-x1c

Sure! I actually used Bambulab PLA Basic for all colors and PLA Matte Marine Blue for the eyes.

Lo siento mucho, pero no tengo licencia para vender este motor como producto.

Ja, wie vom Modellautor @ makerworld.com/en/models/73858 beschrieben, beim Drucken von schwebenden Modellen … ist es wichtig, daran zu denken, den Wandgenerator von Classic auf Arachne einzustellen. Dadurch druckt der Slicer die Saiten.

@@3DTimeSculpt jop hab’s gesehen vielen Dank trotzdem 👍

Agreed!

95 x 46.25 x 131 millimeters. It basically lets you fit up to an iPhone Max in it. But when you print it you can make it larger or smaller as you please, of course.

Correct, there are no electronics AFAIK. The car has nice mechanical features such as a functioning steering wheel, handles to open the hood and trunk, and rotating wheels.

Thank you! Cheers!

yeah, it took me five minutes to figure out the last gear but eventually, it worked out. Nice model by the way!

Thank you!! 😊

Yup, you're right!

Thanks!

I had no problems when using an Overture PLA Silk gold filament, perhaps because the P1P printer slows down a lot when printing generic silk PLA.

Our pleasure!

I agree!

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks!

That is awesome!

You're Welcome 😊

Yes, the dials will snap on the internal golden wheels and lock in place. BTW I didn't use any glue and with the last dial I used a small screwdriver to reach inside and put pressure on the back of the last golden wheel.

@@3DTimeSculpt thank you! i guess i need to print the parts again :)

After printing the white wheels three time and shrunk it down each time, I had no luck. From what I can see is the spokes are way too big, so I’m going to try to shrink down just that part of the wheel.

Ive just printed this and the inner dials wont just push in no matter what. Does anyone know how i could do this

@@stephjarrold3737 check your printer settings and make sure all looks right. Sometimes I printed parts with the wrong nozzle size settings and all the layer heights were off. You could try using the same filament for both the inner and outer dials, because sometime different filament and/or material can expand in different ways and you will have different tolerances on each part. Another thing you could try is use thinner layer lines. For example if you have a 0.4 mm nozzle, you could try to use 0.16 or 0.12 mm layer height.

Sorry if I disappointed you with this short video :( , will try to do better in the future. BTW I paid my printer $699.

Thanks!

You think so?

@@3DTimeSculpt well, considering the video showed you gluing everything together twice....

@@tomschwoerer You're right. My bad. I thought I was commenting on a different model somehow 😅

Thank you!

Great tip! Thank you.

No glue. The three small pieces are locking the two main parts together w/o the need for glue.

@@3DTimeSculpt Thanks for letting us know. I'm going to rewatch part of the video to see if I can understand how it works.

@@3DTimeSculpt I missed it the first time because I was trying to figure out why you had two images in the screen. I thought maybe it was a stereo view but apparently it was mirror effect. FWIW, I'm not a fan of the mirror effect in situations like this. Still I enjoyed the video. Thanks for making it.

@@ddegn I know, I did the mirror thing because the video is supposed to have a 4:3 ratio, but I took some of the video using an iPhone with a 9:16 aspect ratio, and it's hard to make it fit the screen without enlarging it too much and lose resolution.

I believe it is a combination of slowing down the nozzle speed and setting the fans to 100% to immediately cool down the filament while building the bridge.

When you have two surfaces and you want a straight line of filament between them you can just print that. the nozzle pushes out the right amount of filament, the fan cools it as it goes and it just pulls out a strand of plastic until it connects it to the other side, if its the right temp then it wont sag at all and you get a ridge of filament. You have to have the right filament temp and fan speed. And even then if you have the temp and fan speed set right, if you have a printer with a one direction fan then it can cool the filament perfectly when its going one way, but when its going another, the fan can end up blowing the filament in the wrong direction, leading to it sagging. So you really have to dial in the right temp for the filament you're using, do some calibration prints. Eventually you'll find the right settings. Or it might just work at whatever temp you regularly use. Different filaments can be more or less forgiving.

makerworld.com/en/models/73858#profileId-78362

You're right. Originally I tried without supports but the roof of the box failed to print correctly. I'm going to fix the description accordingly. Thanks for noticing it!

I just used Bambulab PLA Basic and it worked the first time. No problems at all.

Same here. Sucks I’ve wasted two prints trying to

@@silver2331 perhaps my settings can help you: - Printer: Bambulab P1P with 0.4 Nozzle - Filament: Bambulab PLA Basic Brown - Printer Profile: 0.20mm Standard @BBL P1P Strength Settings: Wall loops: 3 Top shell layers: 3 Others Settings: Brim type: Outer brim only everything else uses the default settings

thank you so much! I will try them!@@3DTimeSculpt

😂😂😂

No, I don't.