Відео

Thanks! I am running this thing at about 140 F degrees, and the temperature dial (aquastat I believe) is the upper left device in the boiler compartment. I don’t want my radiators or basement pipes to ever get to 180 F bc it’s just way too much thermal mass and overheats the house if it does. So in a recovery period, we’d end up way overshooting the thermostat set point. I am planning to switch to a modcon with outdoor reset.

Yeah. Sorry it’s just another of my poor quality videos, but the fact remains that this can be done typically faster than it takes to find a friend to help carry, and then the antenna would have been in the way. ~3 minutes, and I’m done. Lots of practice that I am trying to share.

@@mclifer Yeah. I’m sorry I struggled so much to get it disconnected there with the wires, but it DID fix the issue with the TV that’s been working great since I cleaned those connections. Thanks for watching my struggle. LOL

@@mknmike I have replaced this board 3 times and this time I tried your way. It seems to be working. Thankyou.

My kids, wife and neighbor were all going to help, but I’ve just got to keep moving forward. I wasn’t able to video, but I was able to loft with the engine hoist while holding one side, lifting it over the leg of the engine hoist. Then it was vertical, and I just jacked it a few more inches to be over both legs.

I am sorry I don’t recall, but do know that it’s not exactly critical (like it is on a diesel) because it’s not direct injection. I think it’s something like 12 or 18 or 21 degrees though. Sorry I failed at MFI and decided to get rid of everything MFI I owned.

@mknmike Thank you very much, I wish you success, and may God bless your time with all goodness

For ham sandwiches in the basement? :-) All the leads head to where the replacement security system landed. It looks like all the ends were cut off of the wires. So I can’t see if there were labels on the old wire ends.

From the look of the internals, the vacuum tube, and the antenna on the outside and what seams like an antenna on the inside of it, I'm going to guess its some kind of recever, probably for some kind of remote to the security system.

@@ThermalDragon there are at least 3 of them in the house, seemingly under the center hall, living room and dining room.

Thanks for the comment. I have tons of Ryobi 18v batteries and would like to find something similar from them. However, we really love this light and handy vacuum. We will probably end up buying an authentic replacement.

@@mknmike I have a Dyson V6, got it for free as the battery didn't hold much charge. You can get adapters which will let you use your Ryobi batteries with your V7, I use the 5.0Ah Milwaukee batteries with my V6 and it works great.

@@mknmike Only issue I had was my V6 doesn't like to run in boost/max mode, but works fine in normal. Original Dyson batteries are 22v whilst power tool ones are 18v, the Dyson must think the battery is running out and won't boost for very long. I find it has enough power and don't need boost mode anyway, not sure if it would be the same with the V7 but something to consider if you use boost/max mode regularly.

@@mknmike Never mind, boost mode works fine with a 5ah battery when I just tested it.

But two problems with the back stab: (1) Electricians say never to use them, and (2) This box was very shallow, and the back stab would have had force pressing a bent, potentially uninsulated portion of the wire up against the metal box. So yeah, not an issue if you are fine with using back stabs. I am able to wrap the wires around the screws, but it just always takes me additional time with this 10-pack I purchased.

@@davidjacobs8558 I don’t know the size of a Pentair niche, but this thing was a bit too small for my niche and required the antique brass bezel to be bolted to it. I also bought a second (spare/backup) light later for only like $40 (still in box).

I bought that car for $850 before I sold the Zender body kit for $500 and then sold the car for $2200. Not sure how I could do $500 with of body damage. In several years of doing this, I’ve never done any body damage. Check my more recent videos doing it.

Sorry I did not. I borrowed another pump from a friend but ended up selling the whole car and selling the other injection pump for the friend too. I gave up on MFI cars altogether.

Yeah, the fuel inefficiency relative to delivered performance really puts me off. Also, gray market cars from that era could have all kinds of electrical problems.

The gray market cars typically have fewer electronics than the US equivalents.

@mrkiplingreallywasan­exceed8311 Holy crap. That’s a long handle. Do you like the aesthetics of any old Mercedes’? The 450slc 5.0 got its reputation for durability in the endurance rally races. Yeah. Mine is no racer. Mercedes quit rally racing when they weren’t guaranteed the ability to win with the 500sl rally car that was built but apparently never raced. Things are often unique because not enough people wanted them. I get it. 240 HP and 0-60 at a snail’s pace. Well, please find me a better 5 seat convertible, the reason I bought this car.

That’s true. I made sure that pump was working and eliminated the fuel tank first.

I had someone check the Freon level and it was fine no leak is it a coil issue maybe ?

Multiple issues, but the worst was that there was no trap in the condensate line so the fan would suck air in which prevented the water flowing out of the unit. This was the first of several issues I had the second summer with this installation. It all seems resolved now without any change in the charge of the refrigerant. Just leveled the unit and fixed the condensate line adding a trap.