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Jack Glenn
United States
Приєднався 12 вер 2023
Відео
Pigs Tail for Tree Topper
Переглядів 592 місяці тому
Fabricating the Pig's Tail Base so it can Attach to the Top of the Tree
Christmas Tree Topper Assembly Part 2
Переглядів 1082 місяці тому
Tree Topper Assembly with Prepped Parts
Christmas Tree Topper part 1
Переглядів 1202 місяці тому
Christmas Tree Topper Preassembly Prep Work Part 1
The Story of the Tree Topper Star
Переглядів 662 місяці тому
Intro to Making a Christmas Tree Star Topper
Screw eyes in Curved zinc
Переглядів 3794 місяці тому
Tips for Soldering Screw Eyes into Zinc Edges for Circles Ovals Etc;Etc;
lettering layout final draft
Переглядів 495 місяців тому
Showing the results of the previous 3 videos of this subject
Soldering on rebar
Переглядів 2225 місяців тому
Tips for Soldering on Galvanized Steel Reinforcing Bars
I Hate Jump Rings --So These are My Hangers
Переглядів 8 тис.8 місяців тому
I Hate Jump Rings So These are My Hangers
That is a wonderful video… thank you for sharing your method!
Very nice and helpfull, thank you !
Great video! Also, I love the misspelling on the note 😂
Off the screen.
I am enjoying your video's Where are you located and would you like to have an apprentice. I dabbled stained glas 25 years ago and I would like to learn from someonewith experience , like my old teacher from back then. I am very appreciative that you are passing your years of knowledge along:)
I'm in Lynchburg Va & it's difficult for me to have an apprentice because of how varied everything I work on is & I had learned / honed my skills through repetition and mostly I have had helpers over the years that were like a second pair of hands & the videos are probably the best way to learn the basic principles of what you would be learning as a apprentice
4:02...son of a what????????!!!!!! LOL
What temp iron do you use attaching the copper wire?
Ya know I just have that iron on an old fashion reostat that goes from 1 to 100 --%-- so it's about 70 %. & Ya know really 1 of the reasons I use the 24 gauge is that it doesn't take a lot of heat to get it to take solder and it doesn't hold the heat as long as the thicker wire --So I can work closer & I don't have to hold it so long & risk burning my fingers
I love this video so helpful to me thank you for posting it!
Thanks ---but not everyone can figure out or express it in formula ---the lady I had made the video for originally didn't have the math skills to be able to understand what is in your reply
The straight line connecting the end-points of the arc, or chord length = 2r sin(θ/2). [θ is in radians] c = 2(2) * sin[(2*pi/5)/2] c = 4 * sin(1.26/2) c = 2.35" = 2 11/32" Or, for pentagram side: c = 2(2) * sin[(4pi/5)/2] c = 3 13/16"
0:43 nicer in the lines for me .
Your videos are great Jack quick to the point and what a gem to find knowledge like this!
Thank you
Hello! What do you use for wire or ware to hang stained glass windows ? thans
Most of the time I would be using 16 Gauge Jack Chain & I believe it's rated at up to 11 pound s most of the stuff I make is not that heavy
I really enjoy your videos and look forward to making something similar to this! What size is the brass tubing you used?
I believe I had used 1/16th inch---Though it could have been slightly smaller cause I have a box I save all my bits of scrap brass tubing & rods in
Brillant. Do you transform it in a paste ? I do not like the fact that is drips everywhere. Also: when I use normal zinc chloride paste and my American Beauty 250W I have no issue . But you still think that the solder is not of good quality ?
You use muriatic acid for zinc bars? I have no issue with normal zinc chloride paste flux …
I use the same kind of soldering iron .
5:57 muriatic acid …? Why ? I do not use it .
Well done work Sir.
Good setup . Thank you!
Well I will have to weigh it some how I just don't have a anything like a kitchen scale & it's going to be a while before I will be able to transport it any where because I will be making a box for the client to store it in when not in use----- plus I still have the other one to finish
How heavy is it once finished?
I just tried to weigh it on a spring scale & it not even register so maybe less than 2 pounds maybe even 1 pound
Thank you 😊
That goes against everything I have learned. I would never solder a hanger just to the came - even at an intersection.
Well I only have my over 56 years of experience to go by & That`s the whole point is to solder the hanger on at a intersection NOT out in the middle of nowhere & For myself I have never had what I use for hangers fail----Now I have had a boat load of repairs due to Jump Ring failure
Too bad we can't see what you're doing.
That's what I was going to say. I guess he didn't edit his video.
Excellent technique! Especially like the explanation of why the fine gauge wire is best.
Thanks I had come to that conclusion after trying thicker gauge s & when bending / folding the panels the heavier gauge ripped the foil off & what a mess that was to fix 😊😊
Sir, Kurt here, Did you stretch your came????
Yes always sorry it took so long I have been unwell
Hello Jack. My name is KURT, Recently Bought a vintage "Tiffany Style" swag lamp kit. I have been researching exactly what you are doing. I have found value in every vid I watched on this subject. Thank you for posting this Sir! God Bless. :)
Thank you for sharing
Great video.
Thanks for the tip
Wonderful idea, thank you!
Thanks for info. 😊so true most don’t think before doing. Lol
Can’t see the top so this part is useless
Yeah that`s a problem when I am shooting a video alone ---BUT there is enough of it there if you watch the whole video that most people could figure it out & you never know I may reshoot next time I am putting those loops on a project ---But it`s not like i can just reshoot a project over & over till I get the camera angle right ---I am just an old man trying to hopefully pass on what little I think I may have learned be fore I am dead
Thank you, Jack!!
Your welcome & find & watch the other videos that go along with this one --Wire Wrapping & Edge Beading
yep...i needed that fulcrum lesson..thanks Jack
Well Ya know in working in the factory glass cutting department --We did all our breaking by hand or using the pliers like in the video ---We never used Breakers / running pliers --In fact I have a pair in the studio but I never use them cause I get a cleaner break by hand
Very helpful to see you work. I've always have done copper foil method and struggle with the lead repair job I'm working on. Very helpful
Can you tell me anything about the machine? Where it came from, what brand, or??? My wife wants to get one but I am not having any luck finding something similar. Edit: Wife found name from one of your other videos - Diegel Stained Glass Foiler.
Ed Hoy's carries them & a lot of folks have found them on Amazon
@@JackGlenn-zg7sm Thank you.
Yes your welcome ya really don't want any thing similar --- all the other machines either rely on the glass being a uniform thickness which is often not the case & or are not able to do tiny pieces --or heavily textured glass ----So with the Diegel I have found that foiling all the glass of the same approximate thickness before changing the setting to be the most productive approach
@@JackGlenn-zg7sm Thank you again. My wife says that your videos are awesome and she is learning a lot.
I also have a Diegel and love it for the same reasons. Keep the videos coming!
Thanks for sharing all your tips and tricks. It takes years to gain the knowledge you have. Thanks again!
Your welcome if you watch wire wrapping info I had added some additional tips that I had forgot to mention in the original video
Thanks for the warning about this time of situation. Thanks for the tip on a device to help separate copper foil solders, too. I have struggled with just using pliers, which is sometimes not successful.
Awesome thanks
thank you!!
Very helpful! Thank you Patricia
Yes I saw that in your post & just for my self for a shade that size just having the wire too & bottom with good bead would have been more than😅 sufficient but if placing the 14 gauge on it makes you feel better better than ok ---- It just seems like over kill to me --- but as long as you are happy that's all that really matters
I finished my lamp using your method, I only did one thing different, after I picked it up and joined the sides, I tacked the top well and removed the wire and replaced it with 14 ga on the very inside it the top to strengthen it. I also run a piece down each side of the panels. Thank you for your guidance. I appreciate your wisdom.
This idea of hangers really does look better than jumprings! Stained glass windows look so expensive, so why cheapen the look with common jumprings?!!! Plus they never looked strong enought but i admit i have used them, thats all I've known to use. But now I'll use your idea! Thank you!!!
I just love how u are straight to the point! Exactly how I like to learn.
O k your new at this so Rule #1 if you don't have a corner to place a hanger on then always solder the hanger / loop at a intersection -----If you noticed I used lead came on the edge & if I didn't solder the hanger at a intersection what would keep the lead from pulling away over time from the weight of the piece due to Gravity. ?
Trying to understand why the hanger needs to be applied at an intersection since it is not inserted into the line. I'm so new to this
I believe it is for strength
Yes, for strength! If not placed on the seam work, the weight of the cane can easily pull away from the glass, especially over time by hanging.