Відео

Also be careful with the cable as it is coming through the firewall. If your not very careful you can bind the wire here because of the sharp edges of hole in firewall. It makes a fairly sharp upward turn going through.

One comment. If you use a piece of baling wire tied to the end of the cable and pull it through the fender well. Then take the old cable off the baling wire. Then you'll have baling wire to use to pull the new cable though the firewall. You don't have to remove the fender well by doing this. Once you're ready to pull the new cable through the firewall attach the balled end to the baling wire and the pull the cable through by pulling the baling wire through from the engine bay.

I've see replacement handles that are sold separately..

Thanks for posting this. Decided to subscribe. We have two CR-Vs and one Element in the family and it's nice to have these resources available. I wonder how those super-cheap Amazon mounts will hold up over time though. I've been disappointed by aftermarket parts quality a lot recently even with name-brand suppliers so I'd really have to be feeling light in the wallet to go that route on something not that easy to swap out again if they go bad quickly. On the other hand Honda charges on the order of $150-$200+ for each of these mounts even through online discount dealers. I know I'm not the only one wondering where to find the best value.

Great video, been there.

Please, keep making videos!!! You got this! Helped a lot and applies to many Hondas, thank you!! I have a 07 CRV with the electric key fob. The main car battery died, so the fob buttons don't work, and coincidentally, the manual key lock cylinder is broken. I have been going in through the weather stripping with a long pole and trying to hit the unlock button inside, but of course honda made it incredibly hard to push that button by the handle forward. And you cannot unlock it by pulling the interior handle nor that little button on the door arm rest. Any ideas? Lol. Tips? Im now just going to try to charge the battery so i can use the fob. I dont know why im having so much trouble pushing the unlock tab forward with my long hard pole.

What is the black plate that is just above and to the left of the crankshaft seal? that is where my leak is.. can't find a name for it.. Has three bolts .. Should i just remove and RTV it back on?? is it the oil pressure sensor??

Can i just replace the part with the bearing that rattles?

Thanks for the location of the release cable under the fender

what brand/model impact is that

good job thank you!

çok teşekür ederim vidyo için çok faydalı

Gteat video. Makes it look easy.

Thank you so much for this video!!!!! I have a new project!!! Nice and detailed! I also followed your first video as well!!! Thank you!

Good job!

my stupid ass clip is facing downwards so it is difficult to get the clip off the hose

Thanks for sharing this. Very helpful.

I know there's an old video but do you necessarily have to take out the motor mount bracket in order to pull up the motor mount cuz I see the three bolts I could take out from the motor mount and then the one that connects the motor mount to the bracket and there is plenty of room just to pull out the motor mount itself but it is necessary to pull out the bracket as well

Was your Element "idle surging" before changing this sensor? I thought I could hear that when you started it up. That's what mine is doing and I cannot get it fixed!! TIA Edit: my Element is idle surging like yours was doing BEFORE the install.

If you are planning on doing this job just spend the money on a weighted socket to use on your impact gun and save yourself the hassle

So my battery died and this happened to my hood latch. After I open it , I need to jump my battery and drive the car to the mechanic. How can I close or secure the hood so I can drive but not lock it down so I'd have to go through this again once I get to the mechanic?

Just did mine on my Accord, hoping for a little better efficiency 🤷

I have the same car, did you disconected the links and ball joints or just the two bolts from the shock?? I replaced the same axle from autozone but I get vibration at high speed, I have read that if it is not the original you can get those problems

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Outstanding, thankyou!👍

Thanks you for your informative video

The close up still of the tools used is a great ideal! 👌

By far, the best video of this procedure. Thanks man!

Did you install the bracket upside down? Where’s the ground cable?

I have a 2003. Just putting back together after major work-timing chain, valve seals, head gasket... I have one extra vacuum line running from the base of the power steering mount, towards the throttle body.. When starting it runs high 2-3K, I've cleaned the IAC valve when dissemsembled. I think this line is from PVC? On some other years I believe it hooks right intake the middle of the intake manifold. But not on mine. Does it hook up at base of throttle body?

I went through the same frustrations as you did with this seemingly (yet deceitful) easy job. PS - The bolt diagrams you popped up were brilliant. Thanks.

Thanks! I was able to do it by pulling on the cable with my hand because I wasnt able with the screwdriver

I have a 2006 Honda Crv. A local shop told me they would have to remove and replace the timing cover gasket in order to replace the crankshaft seal. Is this correct or are they trying to scam me?

How many expletives are on the editing floor? I can never fathom the struggle I'm about to get into when I start to work on my car.

Nice tutorial

thank you so much ❤❤❤❤❤

Like this video cause that's exactly how it is, never know whats going to happen.Real deal video 👍

I believe I may have this same problem.. on my Honda the oil leaks between the tire and rim

the TCS4051 Felo Pro gasket used has an extra ring / gasket, anyone know what's that for?

Thanks for videos

Thanks a lot for the video. I need to do this to a 2003 CRV with 194,000 miles that we've had since 2004. I replaced the oil sending unit, valve cover gaskets and a solenoid gasket but it's still leaking so I imagine that's where it's at. Looks like the hardest part is the belt.

Thank you so much!!

I installed the PCV like for 30 minutes. I removed the screw from the radiator reservoir for a little space, using a long screwdriver to wiggle the hose so it could move and remove it from getting stuck. Once I saw a gap between the hose and screw, I used a 16 in needle hose pliers to pull the hose, and it popped out. To remove the PCV, I just used a 17mm long wrench and a short ratchet. When putting it back, I used smaller long-nose pliers for the clamp.

This should be a free service from Honda for the terrible design of this vehicle's repairability. You can't access anything and it's the worst fuel consumption of any Honda CRV. Recently it's gone from 18-24 to 13-18. Has an oil leak on belt side but the oil level remains steady. And I'm too afraid to reset the code as it'll die. Everything appears and tests normal but the idle will drop if reset. Know anyone in Los Angeles who understands this car - except Honda, who clearly don't. Big props to you for doing this with one hand!

Thank you kind sir I subscribed 🎉

run and drive

Keep it stock

keep it stock and put it back on the trail! Go to the next "Go Devil" jeep run!

Make it original

Go back to original and keep it in the family that’s an awesome Cj2a