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Thanks for the video! I have exactly the same noise, followed instructions from another video for removal and found that the wheel was cracked on the hub. A lot less expensive than replacing the whole assembly, which is what I suspect would have been the answer if a tech had come in.

Thank you for this video,i changed th Gt60n321 IGBT but when i start microwave,IGBT blows again and i need to change it again, I'm so confused, magnetron is ok

Thank you for your really helpful video! I will test my motor base on what you show. Thank you so much.

The voltage between brown and yellow wire is sent from control board when the furnace is working ?

Have similar issue anyone know what the cause is?

Be careful because this can overheat your compressor and start a fire.

I was able to remove the set screw. The nut is very tight on the shaft. How did you remove the nut? I tried using a plier to twist the nut off, but not luck.

good work and skills love it.

Good video

How do you by pass the flame sensor to get the main gas valve open with out any flame ?

In my case the problem was deposits that had clogged the nipple for one of the hoses (red, on my furnace) to the pressure switch. running a small drill bit through the nipple cleared away the deposits and voila, everything worked again. A simple fix what what looks initially to be an expensive repair. Yes, I have posted this comment on other E228 videos but, truly, I am over-the-moon with the simplicity of the solution. Switch: Lennox 78W57 / Honeywell BA80013 Furnace: Lennox G71MPP.

you would have to modify the thermostat for this to work.

You did not do any increase , you need to change to a more powerfull transformer also ...

It’s because some motors use AC and some motors use DC and newer ones use serial communication.

Good video plan to put more power on my small Iwavecube microwave!!

Can you explain better what's going on here? What did you do to get it to calibrate successfully? Mine is stuck on unable to calibrate and I'm not getting any heat

I received my replacement impeller last week. The existing impeller hub was in perfect condition. In fact it looked like it may have been replaced already since it had a metal hub. There weren't any signs of the impeller rubbing anywhere. I did notice the plastic tabs near both the active outlet and the capped off outlet of the volute. I suspect those may be the culprit as they aren't tight and when you flick them they make the same sound. Pretty sure they are vibrating intermittently. I took them out, cleaned them up and dried them off. Put them back in with some silicone adhesive. Unfortunately I wasn't able to give them enough time to dry so they didn't hold. I returned the impeller convinced that is not the problem. I'll take it apart in the spring and glue those tabs down. I thought about just removing them but they must be there for a reason.

had this same issue happening to me, pressure switch in the back was bad. the diaphragm would not close all the way! inducer motor would ramp up in speed like 5-6 different stages lol.

Spot on! Mine is making the exact same intermittent noise. Winter is coming so I better get on it! Thank You for posting!

The fuse has to be a delay acting type only, not fast acting..

You need to work on other things

Thnks for traduction and information

Do you have the IGBT part number for higher Amp one that digikey had? Thank you.

You just voided the certification of the furnace ... more bad advice. The inducer motor is 7 years old you should check the amperage draw running normally... and should be replaced if issue or high draw. (if it was registered the part has a 10 year warranty and will be covered) - it may no longer have the torque required to overcome the small amount of water in the collector. Ensure the furnace is level or sloped a little to the side the collector box drains. Clean all condensate lines and trap assembly. You cant just change the way the furnace was designed to work. If its not working the way it did the first 7 years as designed there something wrong, and the issue is not with the certified and approved design.

could you tell me what the yellow jumper wire is for for the line voltage? thank you. update I found my answer. jumpered for 120v no jumper for 220v

Thanks mine is making the same noise. Thought it was the bearings. I also have the crack on the fan

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Where you bought the fan wheel?

Can you tell me the data for this igbt? Or it's all the same ? I mean voltage ...ampere....uf

Great video

Jeez .........👻

Hello, I am writing to you from Buenos Aires, Argentina. I have a problem with the brakes of the motors and it does not allow it to work. it is a quantum edge 3 . In our country there are no spare parts and it belongs to a 9-year-old boy. please help Thank you!

Thank you for this great video sir!! Would have loved to see how you got the plastic housing apart though. Mine don't want to separate. Any tricks or Ideas please? Thank you and Happy New Year blessing to you and yours from Michigan usa

Thank you! I soldered the wires so it stays on while plugged in.

Perfect.. Thank You very much for posting this video, I had taken a hint from your video where actually the problem was with IGBT while Rectifier was showing a problem when it was connected to the board. My panasonic microwave had exactly the same problem(fuse getting blown). I had no idea about microwave repair and watched many videos to zero in on inverter board and finally fixed mine replacing the IGBT. Thanks.

How did you power the inducer motor outside the furnace? Is there a fancy device that powers the ECM motor, or did you rig up something?

This info is still good! I had replaced the entire inducer assembly about 6 years ago, and now the replacement is failing. I believe the problem in both cases is simply a bearing for the motor. I've been trying to figure out how to wire up the motor out of the furnace to isolate the noise I'm hearing. This video has been a great help; thank you for making it! It's nuts that they try to make us spend $500 - $1100 for an entire new assembly, when we just need a sub-$10 bearing and some patience.

My Issue Is Inside The Tire

I knew after, why I couldn't test IGBT like in other videos. The voltage to activate IGBT is too low on my multimeter, too low to activate it. I should use a DC power supply to test it.

Sounds like mine. Thanks for the insight! Easier to replace the whole inducer assembly, but they cost ~$340 in the U.S. right now.

This one is the best. No special needs.

Is there a way to measure the voltages on the motor connection to see if the control board or inducer motor is bad? Thanks

Hi, my motor has 115vac going to it. But on a call for heat the inducer won't spin. I can hear some clicking sound and a code 42. Is it a bad inducer? Thank you

Can you get inside the water bowl any better if you take it apart ? Mine has fairly new hardly used and is full of white crud like calcium chunks but it’s filtered water

This happened to my carrier furnace, I replaced the flywheel, now it seems it's happened again. what do you think is causing the flywheel to crack repeatedly?

Hi there, where did you buy the part?

A Question: the video of the adapter says "AC power supply" and the output reads "12V" but does not specify if output is ac or dc?? If it is ac output, then I guess the control wires can use ac or dc. Thanks for your video!

Thank you

Hola, te realizo una consulta. Sabes que función cumple el Dip switch numero 3 ? y en que posición debe estar?