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I’ve got the same problem on my Clio I changed throttle body and still the same, now I’m scared to buy the pedal thinking it will be the same 😭😂 anyone help please

The issues with your 2008 Mazda MX-5 blowing the 15A engine fuse and showing a U0100 error code, indicating lost communication with the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), can be challenging to diagnose. 1) A short circuit or ground issue in the wiring harness connected to the PCM can cause the fuse to blow. 2) A malfunctioning PCM can cause intermittent communication issues and might lead to the fuse blowing. 3) A shorted sensor or actuator connected to the PCM 4) Poor ground connections can lead to intermittent communication issues. Ensure all ground connections are secure and free of corrosion. If the problem persists after these steps, it might be necessary to seek professional help from a mechanic or automotive electrician, as they have the tools and experience to diagnose and fix complex electrical issues.

When driving a car, experiencing a reduction in acceleration or "race" (RPMs dropping) can be due to several reasons, especially when the air conditioning (AC) is on. Here are some common causes: 1) AC Compressor Load: The AC compressor requires power from the engine to operate, which adds extra load. This can cause a temporary reduction in engine power, especially noticeable in vehicles with smaller or less powerful engines. 2) Faulty IACV: The Idle Air Control Valve regulates the engine's idle speed. If it's malfunctioning, it might not properly adjust for the increased load when the AC is turned on, causing the engine to stumble or idle roughly. 3) Dirty Throttle Body: A dirty throttle body can restrict airflow, leading to poor engine performance, especially under load. Cleaning the throttle body can sometimes resolve these issues. 4) Vacuum Leaks: Leaks in the vacuum system can lead to an improper air-fuel mixture, causing the engine to struggle when additional load is applied, such as when the AC is turned on.

Diagnosing whether the upstream or downstream oxygen sensor in your vehicle has failed involves a combination of observing symptoms, checking for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs), and performing specific tests. 1) Use an OBD-II scanner to check for error codes. Common codes for oxygen sensor issues include P0130 to P0135 for the upstream (Bank 1 Sensor 1) and P0136 to P0141 for the downstream (Bank 1 Sensor 2) sensor. 2) An exhaust leak before the upstream sensor can cause false readings. Use a smoke machine or visually inspect for leaks in the exhaust system. 3) Upstream Sensor: Measures the amount of oxygen in the exhaust and fluctuates rapidly between 0.1 to 0.9 volts. Downstream Sensor: Monitors the efficiency of the catalytic converter and has a more stable reading compared to the upstream sensor. Using a Multimeter or Scan Tool: Check the voltage readings of both sensors. An upstream sensor that doesn’t fluctuate or a downstream sensor that reads similar to the upstream sensor might indicate a problem.

Same - it's a cheap component so might replace it anyway

That code is a bad turbo

I have a p0299 that comes on every 5 weeks or after pushing car a bit harder. My whole turbo was replaced less than a year ago, wondering the same thing myself.

@@Bigc223 I took mine into the shop and found out it was just a detached vacuum hose. I really thought it was going to be a full turbo replacement but I was so surprised that it was a detached hose causing so much strife.

@@melissapewitt5477 I really appreciate the reply and glad it wasn’t an expensive fix. I actually had the same issue, I went under the hood and there was an 8inch vacuum hose connecting to my turbo wastegate actuator and it had a small split in it right where it connected. Swapped it out with a 1 dollar hose from autozone and I can feel the difference like crazy. Reset the code nothing yet

Good Job

Therefore, it is always recommended to contact a professional mechanic as your vehicle starts to produce even minor problems... If you ignore minor issues, they may become bigger over time and cause costly repair.

Yes, it is possible for a car to enter limp mode without the check engine light illuminating. Limp mode is a protective measure designed to prevent further damage to the engine or transmission when a fault is detected.

@MechanicalBoost how do I know if I'm on limp mode?

No, it is not better to drive your car harder and faster with a bad PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve. Driving aggressively with a malfunctioning PCV valve can exacerbate the problem and potentially cause more serious damage to your engine. A bad PCV valve can cause increased pressure in the crankcase. Driving harder increases this pressure even more, which can lead to oil leaks, blown seals, or gaskets.

@@MechanicalBoost OK thank's for the reply, I have a 2011 VE it's done 161000kms I don't drive it hard at all.

If the knocking occurs only during driving and then goes away, it could be related to specific conditions such as load, engine speed, or temperature. Here are some potential causes 1) Low-Quality Fuel 2) Carbon deposits on the combustion chamber walls or piston tops 3) Incorrect Ignition Timing 4) Lean Air-Fuel Mixture 5) Faulty Knock Sensor 6) EGR System Issues 7) Old or Worn Spark Plugs

Yeah cc can have a bad smell im getting mine fixed now. Hopefully that’s the issue im getting sparks coils done too

Inspect your catalytic converter and change it

I'm getting ready to change mine now.

Can you expand on that? What issues did you have before changing the valve?

@@blackpanda7612 your car getting sluggish is kinda like your wife getting fat. It happens slowly. So slowly you don't notice it. I didnt have any issues. But the moment I changed the valve... my tacoma ran like new. Thats when I told my wife I'm going for a drive and I never returned.

@@danielfiore8865 OH wow. Thanks for the quick reply. I have some weird idle issues like when the car is warmed up and im at a stop light then my rpm 'sometimes' will slightly drop and go up (rinse and repeat) for a few mins until i get moving again. Also i seem to be losing quit a bit of oil having to top up oil between regular. I did purchase a new one a few days ago and i've yet to install as i don't have the tools. Will try to do so ASAP. Hope you have a good day Sir

Given the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) you received for your 2012 Chevrolet Suburban, it's clear that there are multiple issues that need addressing. 1) Address the Communication Bus Issue (U0073) i) Inspect the wiring and connectors for the communication bus. Look for signs of damage, corrosion, or loose connections. ii) Check for any aftermarket accessories or modifications that might interfere with the communication bus. iii) If the wiring and connectors appear intact, the issue might lie with one of the control modules. Diagnosing this will require a deeper scan and possibly replacement of the faulty module. 2. Fuel System Inspection (P069E, P2635, P0108B) i) Fuel Pressure Regulator and Sensor: The fuel pressure regulator in the 2012 Suburban is typically located near the fuel rail or within the fuel pump assembly in the fuel tank. Given the codes, it is important to inspect the fuel pressure sensor and regulator for proper operation. Replace the fuel pressure sensor if it's found to be faulty. ii) Fuel Pump: Given the P2635 code indicating low performance, the fuel pump may indeed be failing and may need to be replaced. Before replacement, check the fuel filter to ensure it is not clogged, as this could also cause low fuel flow. iii) Fuel Pump Control Module: Check the wiring and connectors to the fuel pump control module. Ensure there are no loose or corroded connections. If the module itself is faulty, it will need to be replaced. An update or reprogramming of the module might also be necessary, which can typically be done at a dealership or an authorized service center. Due to the complexity of these issues, particularly the communication bus problem, it might be beneficial to have a professional mechanic perform a thorough diagnostic. They can use advanced tools to pinpoint the exact cause and recommend appropriate fixes.

@@MechanicalBoost thanks

It may cause because of different causes such as: 1) Piston Slap: This is a common cause of knocking noises in cold engines. When the engine is cold, the pistons may be slightly loose in the cylinder bores. As the engine warms up, the pistons expand and fit more snugly, reducing or eliminating the knocking noise. 2) Oil Viscosity: If the engine oil is too thick (high viscosity) when cold, it may not flow as easily, leading to less effective lubrication of engine components and resulting in knocking sounds. As the oil warms up, it thins out and flows more freely, providing better lubrication and reducing noise. 3) Valve Clearance: Cold engines may have larger valve clearances due to metal contraction. This can cause the valves to make a knocking or tapping sound. As the engine warms up, the metal expands, and the valve clearances become tighter, reducing the noise. 4) Cam Chain Tensioner: Some motorcycles have automatic cam chain tensioners that adjust the tension as the engine warms up. If the tensioner is not working correctly when cold, it can cause a knocking noise that goes away once the engine is warm and the tensioner has adjusted. 5) Cold Engine Combustion: When an engine is cold, the combustion process is not as efficient, which can sometimes cause knocking or pinging sounds. This typically resolves as the engine reaches operating temperature and combustion becomes more efficient. 6) Fuel Quality: Poor quality or incorrect octane fuel can cause pre-ignition or knocking, particularly when the engine is cold. Once the engine is warm, it may run more smoothly and the knocking may diminish. 7) Break-in Period: Even though 1900 miles is a significant amount for a break-in period, some engines might still be settling. Slight variations in engine component fit and wear-in can cause temporary noises that disappear as the engine parts finish settling into their final operating conditions.

@@MechanicalBoost : : you’re good ! I can’t thank you enough for taking the time to put all that down and sending it. Thank you. Out of those seven, at this point and given that the engine is so new, I’d suspect oil quality and fuel quality. I could be they the fuel is not of good quality. I did notice that the gas was really white or clear. This could be it. I’m going to suck it all out and replace it tomorrow. For the oil, Triumph recommends Castrol. So I’ll Che l with the dealer that did the oil change. I’m really hoping it’s the gas. The cold engine, valve clearances, piston slap, and cam tensioner definitely sound like possible causes, but I’m going with the simple possibilities first. Gas and oil. I will say this……there was about two gallons of fuel in the tank, and I added one gallon of 93 octane to see if it made a difference. Not noticeable. I’d go pump it out right now, but it’s 10pm. Thanks again.

@@MechanicalBoost: was not the fuel. The engine is mapped at the factory. Is it possible for that mapping to become corrupt? or partially corrupt? or just enough to cause knocking? or knocking during warm up? or knocking during warm up and then continue but not as bad?

Given the combination of symptoms, it is crucial to address both the oil consumption and the exhaust smell promptly. The exhaust smell inside the cabin is particularly concerning due to the potential for harmful fumes. 1) Check for Internal Oil Leaks: i) Compression Test: Perform a compression test to check for worn piston rings or cylinder walls. ii) PCV Valve: Inspect and replace the PCV valve if necessary. Inspect the Exhaust System: iii) Visual Inspection: Perform a thorough visual inspection of the exhaust manifold, gaskets, and the entire exhaust system for any signs of leaks. iv) Smoke Test: A smoke test can help identify small leaks in the exhaust system that might not be visible. 2) Examine the HVAC System: i) Inspect Blower Motor and Housing: Ensure the blower motor and its housing are free from damage and properly sealed. ii) Cabin Air Filter: Replace the cabin air filter if it’s dirty or improperly installed.

It's possible that the rattling noise and the check engine light indicating an O2 sensor code are related, but it doesn't necessarily mean it's a catalyst failure. Rattling noises could be caused by various issues such as loose parts, exhaust system problems, or engine issues. The O2 sensor code could indicate a problem with the oxygen sensor itself, or it could be a symptom of another issue affecting the air-fuel mixture or exhaust system. A failing catalyst can sometimes trigger O2 sensor codes, but it's not the only possibility.

Yes, a bad catalytic converter can sometimes make a rattling sound, similar to the sound of an engine lacking oil. This typically occurs when the internal components of the catalytic converter become damaged or loose. The rattling noise may be more pronounced during acceleration or when the vehicle is idling.

@@MechanicalBoost hey i really appreciate the reply but i have another question adding to my first one that so whenever that sound comes sometimes the low engine oil symbol also lit up for 1 sec not ever-time but lets say 5 out of 2 times but my car’s engine oil level (was-is) normal and it is also not burning any oil

Im having this issue with my 2017 Chevy Sonic ​@MechanicalBoost

In a 2012 Ford F-150, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is typically located under the hood, near the engine compartment. It is often positioned on the firewall, on the passenger side of the vehicle. However, it's always a good idea to consult the vehicle's manual or a repair guide for the exact location, as it can vary slightly depending on the specific model and configuration of the truck.