Відео

First thing, what are you using to generate G-code? Second are you trying to pull feedrates from the Gcode or using the pendant to set the speeds? Third, after we learn the first two I can give you some feedback.

@@WadeMade The g-code is made in aspire 9.5 and in artcam, I tried both versions, I use the remote control for control, which is set to ignore the g-code, it works according to the advance settings only when idling until the cutter reaches the material, after which it no longer respects the settings, the z axis goes down too quickly and erases the cutter, the movements on the x and y axes are reduced but not on the z axis. Thank you!

I'm sure you can, anything could be modded. But it might take a little tinkering to get it set up and calibrated. I built a CNC router parts 4'x4' machine using a Gecko G540 and it wasn't so bad to do. But, CNC router parts (AVIDCNC.com now) provided me with most of the settings for that kit. I'm sure there has to be other people that have converted a Laguna IQ. But having used both it's not hard to get used to the control on this. Sure, it's not as nice as having all the information on the screen like Mach 3 but it will get the job done. It's easier to use than you think.

@@WadeMade I've been looking at that same motion controller. I need to do more research on it. I'm hoping the built in drivers can handle my nema 34 motors.

@@chestergt7765 If you are refering to the G540 if I remember right I believe it can handle nema 34 motors but you'll be restricted to the power output of the G540 so you won't get full power. On a machine like this I think you will be fine. You'll lose some potential but for the cost savings you might want to give it a try. I believe I asked Ahren of Avid CNC this same question years ago and I believe that was his answer.

I made this video years ago when Chromecast audio was popular. If you are using a source for your music then substitute the Chromecast for the source. If your speakers are Bluetooth. Then this video doesn't apply to your case. I read through your owner's manual and it looks like all your connections are inputs so you are out of luck unless you purchase an external Bluetooth device to stream your music to. If you did that this method should work. You could also check if one of your inputs acts as an output when the Bluetooth in the speaker is on. It could work if it functions in that state but I'm guessing it doesn't since they are all labeled inputs. Good luck.

Glad you enjoyed it!

You are welcome! I'm glad to have helped.

I'm sorry to hear your having trouble. I haven't been on my machine in a while but maybe there was a software version change. When you entered the thickness in the C.A.D. thickness on the setting page did you enter a positive or negative number? Whatever you entered I'd try the opposite. But when you go to test it keep an eye on the height so you don't accidentally plunge anything or notice any weird behavior. Maybe hold the puck in the air for the first test. Also make sure you enter the thickness in millimeters. I hope that helps.

What program are you generating your gcode with? It should just use the rapid speed. I may need to see a snipit of gcode to help. Or double check your rapid speed in your machine and software program.

I have a 10 year old Laguna Swift also and I run the exact same programs on the new one. I’ve been running these programs for years, using VCarve. They both have the A11E controller. This makes me believe it is not the program, and it must be something in the controller. How can I get you more information? I really do appreciate your help.

@@geosreef2357 Check around 3:15 in this video it shows you were to find the max Speed limit on your machine. Compare that to the Swift speeds and if there is a difference it might be why you're noticing it. You can tweak them but if you go too fast on the IQ it might miss steps. Also, can you tell me if the speed you are traveling between the holes is the same as the drill speed when the head moves down? Or does it change and is faster? If it changes this would indicate it's reading a different speed so if you check the speeds at 3:15 you might find your answer. It's possible your rapids are set too low. Is the speed it moves between holes the same speed as the rapids everywhere else in the program? I hope this helps.

Thanks for the tip, if I ever get back into using the machine I'll look up this info on my control for you, but if you're not using a Laguna your settings might be different than mine.

@@WShep yah i`m not using the laguna,did you know the another machine setting? i`m new user please help me

@@mrrons7663 It's been a while but I'd guess the Pulse setting will totally be based on the stepper motors, ball screw pitch, and or rack/teeth. Years ago I setup a Mach 3 system and there was a calibration process. I don't know if the A11E has one but I did find you some info on the web. Look up this link and there are some formulas to help you calculate. www.omni-cnc.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/A11-Manual.pdf It's for the A11 but I would guess they will be similar. Page 27 and 28.

For some reason Laguna ships the IQ with pulses/mm set to 400 for all three axes. It should be 320.

Great to hear!

I would start by checking the gcode to see if the Z move to that height is in there. That way you can rule out if it's a post processor or software issue first.

Thanks, I've never really tested that. I assume you mean something like a live adjust Z like you can do on many common 3d printers. I'd be surprised if you can, typically CNC equipment uses a fixture offset system with some having the ability to fine-tune the settings in the control. But given our control is pretty primitive I'm uncertain if there is a way to edit your programmed fixture offsets. Next time I'm playing with the machine I'll take a look. I don't use it a ton these days. I'm guessing if it has it you'd probably have to stop the program, edit the fixture offset in the control settings and then restart from a breakpoint. But honestly, it might just be faster to reset the Z height.

I'd be curious how much it costs? I didn't personally but I did buy a spare unit to have just in case.

The chiller came with the machine. But I believe it's just a bucket and a aquarium pump. I use rv coolant in it.

I wish I could help but I don't know of any. You you could try vectric or cnczone, but they are not Laguna forums.

@@WadeMade thanks @

I believe so, next time I'm on the machine I'll look.

I did not retram it. But if you wanted too they make a tramming tool that makes it easy. It tightens into the tool holder and has two dial indicators offset by about 6-8"s or so. It makes it very easy. If I remember correctly the back part that holds the spindle did not move when I swapped them out.

Thanks, they must be out of stock currently.

Mine won't read 2 of my drives ATM... Can anyone help?

I don't have any experience with the shapeoko personally but just by looking at a video on it I would think the IQ would be a heavier more rigid machine. The video on the shapeoko I saw mentioned it runs on nema 23 motors. I'm pretty sure Laguna claims the IQ are nema 34. But I wouldn't let the motor size sway you. The Laguna IQ can't really take advantage of the speeds a nema 34 motor can achieve, whether it be the motion design or the controller itself the machine needs to be slowed down from the factory to keep it from missing steps. After that it works perfect and is a solid machine. Stepcraft is another company that makes even a 4'x8' machine that runs on nema 23 motors, albeit with a different motion system. Broinwood has one and makes some amazing wood inlayed cutting boards. But you should know he started his business on a similar machine as the IQ, so that's equally as good. Good luck!!

@@WadeMade Thanks so much for the insight. A lot to digest and make a decision

@@TheHelicapt If your looking to learn on the cheap. I have a romaxx WD-1 I'm selling. 1k for the machine locally pickup only. But you'll still need a mach 3 license, a PC to control it, plus a USB smooth stepper device and a handheld router to mount to it. It's not near as good as what your looking at but it might get you started.

Here is a video of the wd-1 if anyone was interested. ua-cam.com/video/5i2pcAiNc14/v-deo.html the prices at the end of the video have changed. 1k for the machine only.

I've actually never tried but there was a commentor in this video or the other one I did that talks about a method to control the spindle RPM from g-code. He explains it but I'm not sure if it allows you to override said RPM with the pendant.

Thanks @@WadeMade, I’ve replied to the comment on your other video.

Yep, it's as easy as that. Of course, you'll have to tune the sub to match the edifiers but using your laptop to control the volume will keep them the same and it will sound very good.

@@WadeMade Thanks for the reply, another thing I forgot to mention is that my sub has a left and right like yours, will connecting my sub cable to either left or right ports on my sub and then to the y splitters female port work, or like you, would I need another splitter for my sub?

@@R0gue1gNite It should work fine but if there is any bass on the side that's not plugged in, you won't hear it. But I think bass is not usually channel dependent.

I don't think so but I'm not 100% certain on this.

Do you have a link on how to do this? I can't figure it out.

@@Shipwreck0316 Here you go: ua-cam.com/video/yG1QERG4e9I/v-deo.html

Are you able to change speeds via your pendant, or only via G-code? I haven’t been able to get either to work. I've set G Code Setup > S Read = ReadS, configured the values for Machine Setup > Spindle Setup to allow 8 different speeds, but adjusting the spindle "gear" (as RichAuto calls it) either via the pendant (using ON/OFF + Z+/Z-) or via G-Code (i.e. M03 S12000) still has absolutely no effect on the actual spindle speed. When running the program, the controller correctly detects the speed indicated in the G-code and displays S3 (which is what I have set for 12000 rpm), but the spindle itself reaches 22500 rpm (since I have the VFD set to 375), and the difference is clearly audible.

@@StevenRosburg Hi, I export my code using a 'Richauto' post processor, (from Fusion 360) and provided I've specified matching spindle speeds in the CAM paths, it works.

@@Sentientfx1 okay, thanks. I’m going to have to keep digging then, because I’ve tried G-code that’s generated from Fusion 360 as well as hand-written G-code where the spindle speed matches one of the values configured in the pendant, and while the pendant recognizes the speed by displaying the appropriate spindle setting (e.g. S3), the VFD either never gets the message or ignores it.

I backed up my parameters. I would be happy to share them. As long as all the drives are the same between our models they should work I would think. Let me know if you want them and I'll post a link to the file on here.

It sounds like it could work but as far as syncing up the volume, I'm uncertain if you'll have issues without seeing the system setup.

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@@WadeMade Thanks!

The Polk is a solid performer that will hit pretty hard even in a larger room. But it can't hurt to test your sub out first.

I can see that working.

@@WadeMade does hi/lo output matter? Will it yeild same results with subout amp or powered speakers?

@@soloestrella1 that particular sub has a built in crossover so it doesn't really matter but an output that does both high and low should be best then you can tune the subwoofer using the full range. I believe the THX standard is to set a subwoofer to 80hz.

Mine is from KentCNC.com it's the 80mm for Lauguna IQ / IQ-Pro.