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Hi, I’d have to check and confirm how old ours was when we returned it @CRAD098… If yours is 3 months short of four years old I’d advise maybe contacting SAGE first? Or, take it back to Costco and see what they say.

So I made the original ‘maintenance clean’ video in November 2020 which is when you said you bought your machine? I then made the seal replacement video about a year ago. So if I’ve worked the timelines out correctly, the difference between us returning our machine and you returning yours would be the time it takes (with frequent use) for the maintenance clean to come due PLUS one year. Does that make sense?

Hi, thanks for replying. I think when you returned yours it works out being about 6 months younger than what ours is. We have moved area from the wharehouse where we bought the machine and Costco’s website says that you have to return items to the wharehouse that you bought it from. Did you have an extended warranty? We’ve bought the seal from sage and will see if that fixes it first

@@CRAD098 hi again, no we didn’t have an extended warranty, but I understand Costco are pretty good with length of their standard warranty and we’ve never had any issues returning products with genuine issues. When you say you have same fault do you mean the failed silicon 54mm seal AND the corrosion on the ‘shower’ plate? Appreciate you saying you’ve moved areas so maybe worth ringing the warehouses (the one you bought it from and any others that are now closer). I basically went in, explained we’d experienced the failed seal, accepted this was a maintenance item and that we’d bought a replacement seal with intention of replacing it. Then,when removing the shower plate, we saw the corrosion and said in our opinion, this was unacceptable even after the amount of time we’d had it. After all, if the seal hadn’t gone it meant this corrosion was potentially going in our coffee. I suggested this wasn’t good and that it was a poor design if it had failed after the time we’d had it. Correct me if I’m wrong but weren’t they over £600 at the time? To have it corrode even after three years can’t be good? Without taking it in or at least ringing them you’re never going to know. For me though, with things like this it’s best go into the warehouse and just be firm but reasonable and say you don’t believe it is acceptable to have failed in the way it has - and like us it’s only become apparent when the seal has gone. Who knows how long you’ve been drinking coffee from a corroded machine (you tell them)? We didn’t go in with intention of being challenging but more with view of asking them if they felt it was acceptable for a coffee machine to have corroded in the way it had and the fact we might have been ingesting it…. Hope that helps.

No problem, thanks for taking the time to comment👊🏻

Not sure, @fatmah-1245, it depends what model number your machine is. Do you know the model number of your machine?

@@JENXFIVE BES870/B

@@fatmah-1245, if it is the Breville Barista Express then I’d suggest it is the same size (54mm shower head seal/gasket). Best to check on the Breville website, are you in the UK?

www.breville.com/us/en/parts-accessories/parts/sp0025526.html?sku=SP0025526

Great to hear, thanks for taking time to comment 👍🏻👌🏻

Heyup. Be honest, are you saying after watching this video you wouldn’t be able to replace the seal on one of these machines? Assuming you watched in order to be able to replace the seal on a machine? If you haven’t got the intention of changing a seal on one of these machines does the title matter to you that much to ask for it to be changed. The intention was to replace the seal, but the seal that had been delivered was the wrong size (even though it was ‘advertised’ to fit our machine based on model number). Then of course there’s the issue with the corrosion, which was another reason I didn’t complete the seal replacement…. Anyway, writing this message I’m feeling I’ve now spent more than an acceptable amount of time responding to what, on the face of it, is a bit of a pointless communication (in my opinion). Also, if you’d took time to read the comments you’d have seen my disclaimer which is in bold text and highlighted with asterisks that clearly informs viewers that the seal replacement isn’t actually completed BUT, there’s enough shown (in my view) to allow someone to replace a seal on their machine… 👊🏻

That sounds reasonably normal (some residual ‘powder’ from the tablet and run off water that’s not clear) - see 8:39 Did you use a Sage branded cleaning tablet of recommended type / size. If you’ve used a non branded cleaning tablet that is bigger than one of the Sage brand ones, this could be why there is more residual powder left. Different types of tablet may be harder to dissolve as well and then leave more residual. Regards the ‘drip’ you’ve mentioned, it’s hard to say whether this is normal. Do you feel the cleaning disk was sat level in the basket? There might have also been a small amount of residual water/coffee in the portafilter underneath the seal that’s dripped out during the cleaning cycle? Like I said, it’s hard to say what might have caused the drip and not knowing how big the drip was or how prolonged it was, it’s difficult to make an accurate judgment.

Hi @lovesingh2188, within the machine there are two solenoid* valves positioned in series and in between them is a line that tees off to the group head to supply hot water to make your espresso. The first valve is a three port two way valve. We’ll call this the brew valve. The first port of this brew valve is an inlet that takes the feed from the heater matrix.** The second and third ports of this brew valve are the outlet ports and in correct use, there should only be one outlet of this brew valve open at any time I believe. These two outlets therefore allow HOT water to be directed to EITHER the steam wand/hot water spout OR the group head. If this brew valve needs to supply hot water (steam) to the steam wand, it will only do this if you use the circular switch on the top right hand side of the machine to select steam/hot water. There are individual micro switches positioned on either side of this circular selector and each micro switch, when triggered (I believe as my best guess) sends the required signal to the control board to then power a pump which pulls water from the reservoir and switches on the heating element. Depending on which side the selector is switched to (steam or regular hot water), a different control command will be used to prompt the heater matrix** for regular hot water OR super heat for steam. My best guess is that there is no power to the brew valve if the selector switch for steam or hot water is used. The path through from the heater matrix** outlet to the steam wand and hot water spout is always open I believe. However, it will only call for water when the switch is moved to select steam or hot water, therefore calling for the pump and heating element to then kick in which subsequently allows hot water or steam to flow from the heater matrix** out to the steam wand/hot water spout. When the switch selector is therefore operated (for the steam wand or hot water spout), it should NOT be sending water to the group head. If you then want to brew coffee after preparing compressed grounds in the portafilter and positioning the portafilter assembly under the group head, you’ll press the ‘one cup’ or ‘two cup’ button. The ‘one cup’ or ‘two cup’ button press, will send a signal which asks for the pump to kick in, the heating element to kick in and it will also engage the brew valve switching it over so it no longer feeds the hot water to the steam wand and hot water spout. It instead opens up the third port which is the outlet port supplying pressurised hot water to the group head. At the same time this group head outlet port opens, I understand the outlet port to the steam wand/hot water spout, will be closed. If the three port, two way brew valve is stuck*** in a position which allows an open path on both outlet ports, while trying to feed the group head (for example), hot water will also be feeding constantly to the steam wand. However, if you don’t move the selector on the right hand side of the machine to the position which then allows hot water/steam to dispense, there is a safety device and an overflow device which allows unused hot water (under pressure) to be vented/drained into the drip tray****. THIS IS THE FIRST POTENTIAL PROBLEM: The brew valve being stuck open*** on both sides feeding hot water to the steam wand/hot water dispense when it is NOT being called for on that side. The second solenoid valve is a simpler two port valve which is positioned downstream of the first solenoid and downstream of the tee that feeds the group head. We’ll call this second valve the vent valve. This vent valve is intended to open AFTER the espresso infusion/brewing stage has completed therefore venting any residual hot water from the line that feeds the group head (and line that feeds the pressure gauge). It vents residual hot water to the drip tray****. If this vent valve is stuck open***, therefore being open path when it should be closed, hot water that should be going from the brew valve to the group head to build pressure for the infusion stage of the brew, finds the easier path through the ‘stuck open’*** vent valve and goes in the main, straight to the drip tray. THIS IS THE SECOND POTENTIAL PROBLEM: The vent valve being stuck open*** and allowing hot water to take the easier path straight to the drip tray instead of going to the group head. So, to recap, the first solenoid (or brew valve) will be open one of two ways: Without power, it will be constantly open through to the steam wand/clean hot water outlet. Without the selector switch positioned to dispense steam or hot water though, the system will hold as though in a switched off status with no water being drawn. If the brew valve is stuck*** in an open position to both outlet ports at the same time, and you then go to brew an espresso, pressurised water will flow through to the steam wand and if the selector switch is NOT positioned to call for steam or clean hot water then the hot water going through the ‘stuck open’*** side of the solenoid will be directed to the drip tray****. The second solenoid (or vent valve) should only open AFTER the espresso has been brewed to allow residual hot water that remains in the line that feeds the group head to be discharged to the drip tray. If this vent valve is stuck open*** it will allow hot water to go straight to the drip tray as this is the easiest path for water to flow (as opposed to going along the correct flow path to the group head). SOLUTIONS: As you’ve just completed a cleaning cycle, the chances are, there is some debris that has got stuck under one of the valve seats keeping them open when they should be closed. The best thing to do here is to try and promote flow through both valves to purge/clear any such debris. Both valves are positioned BEFORE any contact is made with the coffee grounds so coffee grounds debris should be unlikely. However, after each brew cycle, any residual water and pressure left in the line to the group head, is purged back through the vent valve and into the drip tray. Some coffee grounds could therefore be pulled back through the system. The more likely cause of debris could be limescale, anything introduced into the water tank or any debris which might have come from a damaged ClaroSwiss filter? In worst case, there could be some internal corrosion off metallic parts that migrates through system and gets lodged under the valve seats meaning they can’t close (and therefore seal off) properly. If the solenoids are not stuck open because of debris they could have simply failed/burnt out - see solenoids info below*

*solenoids are signal/electrically operated valves and when electricity is supplied, the electrical energy is converted to mechanical energy which is used to create a force to physically move a component like a plunger or plug to open or close the valve. If the solenoid is ‘normally closed’ this typically means without power the plunger element is being pushed down typically by using a spring to hold the plunger against a seat/seal to keep the valve mechanically closed. If the solenoid is ‘normally open’ the spring will be pushing the plunger away from the seat/seal to keep the valve mechanically open. The solenoids in our coffee machine are normally closed and will therefore only open electrically when they receive a signal/power. The spring that I’ve mentioned is used to return the valve and push it back to its ‘closed’ resting position once power is shut off. When the solenoids are signalled to come on and open, the electricity supplied to them creates an electromagnetic field in a coil of wire which is wrapped in such a way that it surrounds a fixed tube (which is non magnetic) and within the fixed tube is the plunger or plug which is magnetic. This plunger / plug is what seals the valve closed. The coil when charged with electricity, magnetically pulls the inner plunger away from the valve seat and therefore releasing the seal that the plunger would have when the solenoid is ‘normally closed’. So when powered on and the valve is opened, hot water is allowed to flow from the inlet to the outlet. When the solenoid coil is charged with power, the magnetic pull on the plunger is stronger than the force applied by the spring. The plunger is therefore pulled away from the seat and compresses the spring keeping the valve open as long as the coil remains charged. As soon as power being fed to the solenoid is turned off, the coil loses charge and the magnetic pull on the plunger stops. The force from the spring is no longer overridden and once again the spring force pushes the plunger back toward it’s closed position. This explains the simpler operation of the two port valve vent valve. The three port two way brew valve works similar to the two port vent valve but when no power is supplied to the brew valve, the inlet port that feeds through to the outlet port supplying the steam wand and hot water spout will be constantly open (if I understand the schematic for the valve correctly). When the ‘one cup’ or ‘two cup’ button is pressed, the brew valve solenoid coil is magnetised and the plunger shifts away from its normal position to then allow hot water to flow through to the group head. The flow to the steam wand is turned off when the brew valve is open to the group head. **I understand the heater matrix is ~1.6kw and is made up of a water pipe that coils around a heating element and takes advantage of small nozzle type connections and small bore coil which helps water super heating in very short space of time. ***Regards symptoms of valves sticking, this could be down to debris as mentioned above. If something gets stuck under the plunger / or on the valve seat, it won’t be able to seal properly and could allow a path for the hot water to get through even when the valve should be closed. The valve could also be damaged mechanically with either damage to the seat, the plunger, the seal or even the spring which should hold it closed when the power is not being supplied. It could also be a damaged coil or faulty / damaged wiring which means the coil isn’t being powered when it should be. For the brew valve, if the electrical supply side (coil, wiring etc.) is faulty, this could mean when it should be open to the group head, it sends pumped hot water to the steam wand which I’ve already said is then fed to the trip tray if it’s not directed through the steam wand itself (if I understand the operation correctly). ****Regards the drip tray, if this is receiving quantities of water at a time when water should be going through the brew valve to the group head, then either the brew valve isn’t opening on the outlet port to the group head; the safety device upstream of the brew valve is passing; or the vent valve is opening when it shouldn’t be open (or is stuck open). All these lines mentioned feed into the drip tray through a plastic collection tank with an internal structure that has baffle plates inside that are designed to dissipate any pressure. The baffle plates inside this plastic ‘diffuser’ tank are stacked like overlapping chevrons so the heated pressurised water hits the first baffle plate, runs down and then hits the second one but to escape from the tank the flow of water has to change direction. With each baffle plate the flow of water alternates from one side of the diffuser tank to the other. With each change of direction and each baffle plate the water hits, the pressure reduces and there will also be some cooling happening. By the time the water gets to the outlet of the diffuser tank and is running into the drip tray, the pressure has dissipated and the temperature should have reduced.

So, try and clean out again to promote flow and clear any potential debris. If you have a machine that isn’t too old and has been maintained, then limescale shouldn’t be an issue and shouldn’t be corroded (unless something has failed). On the other hand, if it’s aged and not been maintained it could be limescale build up (or worse corrosion). If a solenoid has failed ‘electrically’ you will likely hear it buzzing or chattering loudly so the ‘noises’ your machine makes will also be a clue as to what the issue is. The rate at which the drip tray fills up will also be an indicator as to which valve is faulty. If you’re confident stripping the machine down (assuming it’s out of warranty) you can test the solenoids - if you need to do this give me a shout on here for guidance. The solenoids are available separately and you can buy a complete assembly with both valves and the tee in between that feeds the group head.

thanks for your reply mate really apperciate the help and i have already open the machine. i think so you are right and its the both solenoids thats not working at the moment so is there any way to clean them or replace them as machine was working perfectly before the cleaning cycle

Hi, @dianonds, if you can replace the head under the shower plate? Our machine was replaced under warranty so I didn’t have to answer that question. I wouldn’t want to keep extracting coffee with hot water running across a corroded surface… would you?

I guess not. Thanks!

No problem, I’ll look to see if there’s anything out there regarding swapping out the group head assembly. I’ve seen a few other videos showing different parts of the internal system corroding in a similar way… Let me know on here if you find any info yourself👍🏻

I've noticed rust in this location too, under the showerhead (not sure what you would call this part?). I have less than yours but I'm wondering if it is a problem or not. Not clear how I would find out or even fix it

I've noticed rust in this location too, under the showerhead (not sure what you would call this part?). I have less than yours but I'm wondering if it is a problem or not. Not clear how I would find out or even fix it

Make sure to get the right size when you replace the seal👍🏻

@@JENXFIVE got a new one and the machine works perfectly. Thank you

@@rieger.designgreat to hear 👍🏻

Pop it off one side, pops back on the other… At 7:05 when I let go of the seal as it was clearly free at that point! Arghhh! None of it intentional by the way, just a bloody awkward position and a super sneaky seal that looks really easy to get off but in reality, pops back into position at every opportunity…. Once you’ve done it though and got a feel for how sneaky it can be and if I wasn’t trying to get footage, it’ll come off a lot easier next time. I work in a maintenance function for my job and taking guidance from my role, I’ll likely replace proactively next time on our new machine (before it fails) and tie it in with a cleaning cycle/general overhaul. 👍🏻

@@JENXFIVE oh yeah I noticed myself when I had to change mine too! Your video helped though thank you

Hi, @kenrickfearn1448, did you watch with intention of learning how to replace the seal so you could do yourself? As you’ve mentioned, regards the corrosion, this was reason I didn’t swap the seal on our machine and had put video together up to that point and if I’d made decision to not post because I didn’t actually replace the seal, then I’d have wasted more than the 15 minutes you mentioned 😉. Fair comment on the suggestion of a disclaimer though which I’ve now added in the comments above. Thanks for watching and taking time to comment (and adding some constructive feedback). 👊🏻

Thanks for taking time to respond and good to hear you got your machine sorted. Good choice on buying the Sage shower gasket. As you saw in the video we bought from ‘another’ supplier on Amazon and it was too small. The gasket we bought didn’t look as good quality either. Normally I would always buy genuine spares if they are reasonably priced but thought I’d get the one from Amazon and compare quality. It was advertised as being correct for our machine…. Kind of glad it was wrong size as might have fitted it and not fully realised the issue with the corrosion on our group head. Although it might have looked more obvious on the video, I hadn’t initially realised when first stripping the shower head plate off. Thanks again. J5

Thanks for taking time to comment @Mathew O’Shea👍🏻

Thanks for taking time to comment Tony. In the video you can see the corrosion evident well before I’d realised. I get that coffee is acidic and we regularly clean the underside and always take the portafilter straight off after use. This was the first time I’d removed the shower plate though and definitely surprised to see that level of corrosion. No questions when we took it back…. Up to now everything’s running ok on the impress variant of the barista express. 👍🏻Let me know how you get on with yours.

@@JENXFIVE Yes all sorted thank you - and no corrosion either - it seems they might have changed the materials/design to stop that happening 👍

@@sharkeltd thanks for the update, hope the seal swap went well. While I’d kicked myself originally getting the wrong seal, there’s a genuine chance if I’d got the correct size one I might have just swapped it and not realised the corrosion. 👍🏻

@Mohsen Tafti, thanks for taking time to view and comment. For the issue you’ve explained there are three things relating to the cleaning disc I’d check first. Then you need to consider the control valve internally which should open to allow water to empty into the drip tray. I’ve included some instruction about this at the end of this comment: 1) At 1.09 compare the view of the seal to confirm whether yours looks the same - check for tears on the raised sections particularly around the bottom of the raised bit. Look on the underside of the seal as well. A small tear or hole might not be immediately visible but when the machine starts to produce steam/pressure it will exaggerate any seal damage. Depending on how old the seal is or where it has been stored, it might have perished? 2) Then at 1.55 compare the depth the seal in the video is sat in the cup basket before sitting in the portafilter. Make sure yours is in the same position (depth in the basket) and most importantly make sure the seal is sat level in the basket. The seal should just sit in the basket - you don’t have to push it down… 3) Similar to first point, make sure you don’t have the original seal that was intentionally supplied with a hole in - if you have previously completed a cleaning cycle successfully already then this is unlikely that you have a cleaning disc with the ‘intentional hole in it’. If you have the cleaning disc without the intentional hole and water is coming out of the portafilter look at what point of the cycle water starts to come through - if it holds for a short period, then level of water gradually increases the cleaning disc could be getting dislodged due to increased build up of pressure. My understanding is that there is a control valve that has more than one position (3 way valve?) and pressure is allowed to build and then back flush / purge through the machine. I don’t know this for certain but I assume the valve will be closed when pressure is built and this allows water/steam/pressure to come into the portafilter to dissolve the cleaning tablet. Then the valve will open to release the pressure built up and it back flushes through the machine. If the valve doesn’t open and pressure starts to build again then this could be enough to dislodge the cleaning disc/seal and cause water to flow forward? Check the pressure gauge as it will show you at the end of each part of the cycle if the machine is depressurising which in turn is a good indication that the control valve is opening to discharge the built up pressure. Hope that helps? Let me know if you solve the problem… 👊🏻

@@JENXFIVE Thank a lot for the thorough reply. I noticed that the new machines are shipped with gaskets that have a hole in the middle and therefore don't create the right process for flushing. I had to shop one without a hole from amazon and now its working properly.

@@mohsenyta good to hear you finally got the situation resolved. I mentioned to check for the hole in the cleaning disc but didn’t expect this to be the reason you were getting water through! Didn’t realise you could still buy this model variant (to include the cleaning disc with a hole). Thanks for taking time to respond back and apologies I wasn’t quicker with my original supply. 👍🏻

Thanks for taking time to comment @Jo. I appreciate caption placement has an impact on engagement. Having found out this was a thing (to create a colour palette from an image), I just wanted to get a video out there to share with others. 👍🏻

@Alya Soul depends on each individuals taste/preference. You can see in the video that the two cup button dispensed about 1/4 pint (imperial) which is about 150ml. I like to drink my coffee from a mug which is around the 350ml mark (I have some bigger than this as well). Therefore pouring a two cup shot at 150ml from a dark roast bean / grind with a rich, full bodied, strong flavour profile allows me to add warm / steamed milk to a similar volume as the poured shot to fill the mug. I ensure a deep filled basket, compacted well (and even) provides enough flavour which is then balanced with the milk to my the liking. The programme button next to the one cup and two cup buttons allows you to alter the amount of water released when pouring the single or double shot. As standard I believe the single pours 30ml and double pours 60ml. We’ve adjusted these pour amounts to provide a 60ml espresso on the single cup button and a 150ml pour on the two cup button. What size pour do you have/prefer?

Nice one Joseph, reminds me our machine wants doing again…..👊🏻👍🏻Thanks for taking time to comment.

No problem @Gerard DB, thanks for taking time to comment. 👍🏻

Thanks for comment - appreciate you taking time. 👍🏻

Missed the two beeps didn’t I!? Considered filming it all again after I realised I’d missed the audible trigger that signified ‘end of cleaning cycle’ 😀😜

No problem Rosemary Xu, that’s why I put the video together; to reassure and help others. Thanks for taking time to comment - much appreciated. 👍🏻

No problems, that was my intention (to help others). 👍🏻Appreciate the comment.

Ha ha! Thanks Philip for comment. Exactly why I made the video as couldn’t find any relevant instructions….. 👍🏻

Thanks for comment Charlie 👍🏻👊🏻

Hi Keith, you mean water came out on the cleaning cycle when you bought it in 2019? If nothing is coming out at all now make sure the water reservoir is connected properly and water is feeding in. Have you tried cleaning cycle recently? When was your last cleaning cycle and what lights do you have illuminated when you switch the machine on?

Thank you! 👍🏻

Hi Mike, sorry to hear your cleaning disk ‘blew out’. I’ve cleaned my machine several times now and not had a problem. Was this the first time you’d attempted the cleaning process? I can only think that either the cleaning disk might have been placed in the basket ‘lopsided’ or the group head wasn’t fully locked in place? If the cleaning disk was lopsided it could have given the impression that the group head was tight before it was fully locked in place I’d suggest? When pressure builds on the first cycle of the cleaning process it may have further exaggerated an offset cleaning disk and could then release the pressure out through the portafilter instead of retaining it against a correctly fitted cleaning disk / seal. Was the seal actually ‘ejected’ from the portafilter / group head or did it release the pressure prematurely and retain the cleaning disk? Was the cleaning disk damaged / deformed during the failed cleaning cycle?

@@JENXFIVE no was inserted just fine. It just built up pressure so high it popped out. Which basket do you use?? Could be only explanation

@@miketaylor1916 Hi again, I use the one cup dual wall basket/filter for the cleaning process. It’s shown in the video at 1m 28s. On another comment to another UA-cam user we did mention that we thought you could possibly use any basket / filter providing the cleaning disk fits snug and not too low in the basket. I haven’t tried another basket yet although I’ve successfully cleaned my machine approx. half dozen times now with no issues. Just to be clear, your group head was locked tight and the cleaning disc was actually ejected out of the group head so you could pick it up and handle it without first removing the portafilter from the group head? Cheers, Jenxfive

Ha ha! Brewdog consumed the night before the video. ‘Hazy Jane’ current favourite beer by them. Measuring in pints is typical for fluids although the metric system prevails here in the UK. 👍🏻

Thanks Rafal 👍🏻

I wouldn’t disagree with that and actually thought this myself - as there is a rubber seal, like you said it shouldn’t matter what basket is in the portafilter. 👍🏻

@L.A. Robert, If the hole has been in your cleaning disc from new it’s probably down to it being on an older model Sage machine. An amount of water would come through the group head and out of the porta filter prior to the new cleaning disc being introduced I believe. The new style disc doesn’t have a hole. What other differences there are between ‘old’ and ‘new’ machines I’m not sure. I’ll try and find out.

No problem Christopher. 👍🏻

Thanks for the feedback. This video was the first time I’d cleaned our machine and so on the next cleaning cycle after I’d pinned the additional comment to clarify the number of pressurisation cycles and the timings of each one. 👍🏻 We’ve also sourced some third party cleaning tablets now.

Thank you for the feedback Isabel, I did wonder about the minimal amount of water that was used as the level in the water tank didn’t drop by much but as I said in the video, the heat, pressure and steam will do the cleaning. A small amount of water will vaporise to a quantity of steam to do the cleaning which when under pressure will also assist. Utilising steam and pressure is a common method used in the food, beverage and other similar industries to make sure systems are kept clean and ‘germ’ free. Cleaning like this uses the thermal energy of condensing steam to clean and also sterilise the system.👍🏻

Hylandan, it could be a scaling issue although I’ve just done a quick internet search and it appears while it cured the problem for a few, a number reported several ‘descaling cycles’ didn’t resolve. I also saw mention of a ‘flow switch’ that had failed on some machines. Is your machine still within the manufacturers warranty period? I’d start by cleaning the machine if you hadn’t done already and then maybe contact the manufacturer even if it’s out of the warranty period. If it was my machine and it was out of warranty I’d do a descale and then start to focus on the flow switch (saw mention of replacements available on eBay). Let me know how you get on.

Thanks for the comment Cor. 👍🏻Regards the cleaning tablets, you would have to make your own decision. I believe there are some third party cleaning tablets and then some descaling tablets and probably some that clean and also descale. I’ve put a comment related to some third party cleaning tablets that I used which were slightly bigger than the ones you get supplied with the machine. The ones I used were 2g where the original are 1.5g I think. You could try one of the ones you have and see how it goes? Maybe do an additional ‘run off’ when you’ve finished the main cleaning cycle? The 2g third party cleaning tablets I used left more residue which makes sense as they are 0.5g bigger than the ones originally supplied. If you think about it, most coffee machines are made of similar components and the cleaning process uses steam/hot water and pressure to dissolve the tablet into a powder/granular form and then use the mixture to back flush and clean/descale the machine. There will likely be components internally in the machine and possibly seals that may be affected if there are ‘ingredients’ in the tablets that are too aggressive but in my opinion most of the tablets will be pretty generic and like I said, it’s worth maybe trying one and see how it goes. Coffee is pretty acidic and over time the components inside the machine will have to withstand these acids that come from the coffee so a cleaning cycle that you flush through with clean water is unlikely to cause serious damage over the lifetime of the machine unless, like I said, there are really aggressive additives in the tablets.....

The other thing to add is how any cleaning tablet stands up to the separate pressurisation cycles in terms of whether it breaks down too easily and is then ‘flushed away’ before the cleaning process is finished. So if you have a really hard tablet that doesn’t dissolve at all then that’s clearly not right. On the other hand, if the cleaning tablet was really crumbly and started to turn powdery as soon as you put it in the cleaning disc then it will likely flush away prematurely and also be no good...👍🏻

@@JENXFIVE Thanks for the quick response! I'm going to try the other tablet and let you know how it worked.

So I did the cleaning sequence with the tablets(Siemens EQ series 2in1) I had from my previous machine. And it worked fine the tablet dissolved for 80% or so.

Agree with your comment Darren, good point. The first cleaning process I did on our machine appeared to use hardly any water and the level in the reservoir looked like it hardly dropped. There was half a pint in the drip tray at the end after starting with the drip tray empty though... The next time I cleaned the machine the water level definitely looked like it dropped more from the rear reservoir. I’ll check next time I clean it to see if it drops by the amount that ends up in the drip tray... 👍🏻

No worries Iain. I’m sure there are other videos out there now and if I was doing it again I’d maybe change some of it. I made this video though because at the time I couldn’t easily find anything that explained this method that I’ve shown and I was at a loss and thought there’d be others in the same boat. 👍🏻

No problem, thanks for taking time to comment. I’ve ‘pinned’ a comment that has a summary of the full cleaning process. Also, see the comment I made on third party cleaning tablets. 👍🏻