Відео

I live on the border of USDA zone 6 and 7. The winters here have been bipolar. One year we had 80 degree days almost every day in October and November, while the year before I don't recall it ever getting above 32 F in October and November. Therefore, never sure how cold it will be and I would hate risk loosing one of my babies to the cold!

Only the awesome ones! :P

Shoot me an email. The1FigMan@gmail.com !

It's really dependent on it's environment. I have mine in a 15 gallon pot and my tree is about 6 feet tall. That however, is because I pinched at 6 feet! I suspect in ground the tree can probably get to 15 to 20 feet.

This is a common fig and does not require the wasp for the fig to develop. All my figs should be presumed common unless otherwise noted. Thanks for watching!

I agree with you! One of my first few videos, so it was a bit of a learning curve (and still learning).

I am happy to say (Red Israel) does incredibly well here in zone 6b….with no special provisions for an early start. wow! Very fruity and yes taste of orange candy / raspberry and a whirlwind of other sophisticated flavors…. Even though you told us all about this fig… This one surprised us too.

I tried to be consistent with previous evaluators' methods for users to be able to compare regions with the same stats. I used the method that Ben B. from Seattle used: Productivity: "Productivity will be calculated by how many figs divided by how many branches. So the result will be a number that shows the average amount of figs per branch."

Every year I tweak my method comparing with last year's results, looking to approve my process. I initially keep the base of my cuttings on a heating pad around 80°F. The pads are under a board with 3 mil to 5 mill plastic. Then I have a grate under that which keeps the pots about 1/4" to 1/2" above the floor. So I suspect the bottom of the cuttings are a little cooler than 80°F. When I begin to see roots, I begin to back down the temps, and try to keep the roots between 70°F to 74°F.

You bet! Thanks for watching!

It changes every year a bit, to constantly tweak and get optimal growth. I find using a calcium additive that can be immediately taken up by the roots to be very beneficial. I'm guessing the gypsum, azomite, and lime provide that (in addition to changing the pH and other additives). Ultimately, I think you need to determine your goals. If you are growing a fig that often splits, maybe add more calcium. If you have a tree heavy in FMV, try more Nitrogen. In my case, I'm looking to provide support to the masses opposed to specific trees.

Lou Monti is the Peter's Honey ambassador.

Hysterical. But do you have more shoes?

Crazy Huh? Every year it's a challenge to find space for the new cultivars.

@ISLAM I thank you so much! That makes sense as the color of the skin is often strongly yellow with a light tint of green.

I found it cute they were making all these noises and trying to talk up the figs. Off camera I kept telling them to stop. So, kids being kids, they did it more and more. So forget their words just in case they really are exaggerating.... But look at their body language! They are pushing each other out of the way and arguing who gets to eat some of the cultivars! They can "ohhhh" or "aaaaahhhh" all they want. But would they really be fighting over who gets to try it if they were NOT that good??

Shoot me an email. Maybe we can trade and compare! The1FigMan@gmail.com

Thank you! It is also has been recommended I use a soldering iron. I started using a drill as I was trying to go through a bulk load of cups at once.

@charles wilder Thank you so much for the great feedback. As for holes, I would not recommend holes if using fine fir bark, until a decent amount of roots are formed. This will help keep the humidity up for the rooting. However, once you have nice roots, I strongly recommend adding holes to increase the air flow. The roots will benefit from the oxygen. Additionally, the exposure to the excess humidly over the long term will promote root rot. The fresh air will help prevent that.

@vito fall The ripening time is directly related to the the length of your summers or the ability to raise the temperatures. I'm on the border of zone 6 and 7. When I took this video, we had an abnormally early Spring. I began getting figs off this tree around mid September. This past year (2020), my trees began breaking bud in my basement (ua-cam.com/video/vBd2RafdZmQ/v-deo.html) early. I tried to hold out as long as possible before bringing my trees out. However, the trees began to get long and lanky. So I took my trees out end of March. It was beautiful Spring. The day after I brought my trees out, we had an unexpected cold snap with hail. Many of my trees had die back of the new shoots. Therefore, I had a very late start 2020. I did not get figs on my tree until late October in 2020 (about 6 weeks later than the previous year!) I hope this helps!

@@the1figman120thanks for replying. I usually fig shuffle me trees. It’s good to know September would be the ripening time. At least this tells me it’s at least 90 to 100 days to ripen fruit. I will keep this in mind thanks for the video.

@Anas Pasha Thank you so much for this info. No, unfortunately I do not know who introduced it to the community. I received mine from a friend. Are their figs with this name in Egypt? I'd be real interested in hearing any more info on this. Please shoot me an email at The1FigMan@gmail.com! Thank you again for taking the time to provide more insight.

I have not sold 1 yet! :) I'm trying to wait until the drama and hype clear first! It's hard to provide an objective video and offer the cultivar at the same time.