Відео

Glad you found it helpful. Keep on probing!😀

Hello, 17K1 is a 230V/50-60Hz, 4SPDT relay. During testing, the voltmeter read 445.2 millivolts, which is nearly zero potential. This confirms that 17K1 was not energized at the time. When this relay is energized, it would trigger the burner breakdown alarm, indicating a fault. In this case, the relay being "OK" means everything is functioning as expected. As part of accurate probing, always check not only the figures but the unit, be it volts or millivolts. Keep on probing!😀

For this test, we're keeping other generators on standby, only G2 is running and simulate an overload trip. We don't need the other generators running.

I'm glad you found the video helpful! Keep on probing! 💪

Thanks. Sure thing!

It's a great question! This setup can indeed be seen as both an overload trip and a preferential trip. Essentially, it’s simulating the tripping of non-essential loads when there’s an overload condition. Some refer to it as 'preferential tripping' because it prioritizes essential loads by disconnecting non-essential ones during overloads. So, you could call it either, depending on your focus - but the function remains the same!

​@@ProbeLem❤❤❤

Thank you! Keep on probing!😀

Hello, I don’t have the firm figures to expect either. I call it benchmarking and evaluated experience to be useful in future issues. But for 220V AC supply, I expect it to be near the nominal values along with its L-G (ca. 110V). For 24V, expecting to have no ground faults and short circuit between electrode terminals.

Hi, it is NIGHTSTICK XPP-5454GC

Usually the sensor has pocket embedded along the jacket cooling water, so you won't experience any leaks. 💪

Much appreciated! Keep on probing😀

We do have. But I want to see for myself and my viewers what is to be like on both ends of the situation. What would you prefer?

At 11:00, I increased slightly (CW) and at 11:14, I fully turned to zero bar (CCW) to see the responsiveness of the diaphragm. At zero, it basically resets the contact to close position as seen on the ohmmeter reading.

@@ProbeLem right. But the wiring diagram shows a NO contact. Shouldn't the pressure switch be closed when the pressure is high, and open when the pressure is low?

Its AutoCAD Electrical😀

@@ProbeLem Thank you Sir!

For this case, we cannot pass behind the advance user access. So the next step is to message the maker, along with the diagnostics message. Afterwards, they sent new plc sp2 which has the program issues.

Hello, this Shaft Torque/Power Meter Shaft Torque/Power Meter commonly uses inductive coupling for power supply to the strain gauge transmitter on the rotating shaft, avoiding the use of slip rings.

In our fleet, we don’t have a permanent ETO onboard. That is why we travel a lot.😀

My pleasure. Keep on probing!😀

Thanks for watching!

Much appreciated!

Hello, great question! The answer is both yes and no: No: 1. If you’re using an analog multimeter or a digital multimeter you’re unfamiliar with. Analog meters typically have lower impedance, which can affect the circuit you’re testing, potentially leading to unsafe conditions or meter damage. 2. If you’re unsure what you’re probing. Safety is your top priority, and if you’re not confident about the circuit or your tools, it’s better to avoid the risk. Yes: 1. If you understand how digital multimeters work. Digital multimeters, especially high-quality ones like the Fluke 177, have high input impedance. This means they draw very little current from the circuit, reducing the risk of interfering with live measurements and helping protect both the user and the meter itself. 2. If you know the circuit you’re working with. Always perform a “hot probe test” first (voltage measurement) to ensure the circuit is de-energized. Once you’ve confirmed it’s safe, you can switch to a “cold probe test” (resistance measurement). 3. There are times such as this that it’s better to probe the instrumentation while the system is in operation (energized) to get the real-time data. In this case, if you have low resistance reading (of pressure switch), making it parallel with your high impedance ohmmeter, you can be confident it can withstand the live potential of the circuit within 1 minute or less (time limit) exposure. Even though some high-quality digital multimeters, like the Fluke 177, can withstand certain live conditions for short periods, it’s always a best practice to de-energize the circuit before switching to resistance mode. This minimizes any risk of hazards or damage to your equipment.

Appreciate that. Keep on probing😀

Thank you! Keep on probing😀

Thanks for the valuable info, its more likely that the pick-up sensor connected to RPU triggered this alarm😀✌️.

Wow, good suggestion. Let’s see, it would be nice to show what’s in my tool bag I brought with me whenever I transfer from vessel to vessel😀✌️.

Yes brother, it'll be very useful for new etos , the multimeter hanger that you used was a new thing for me , 😊​@@ProbeLem

Hi, thanks for your valuable input.

You’re welcome😀

When I was a new electrical practitioner. My favorite was Electrical Power Equipment Maintenance and Testing, 2nd Edition by Paul Gill.😀

@@ProbeLem Thank you very much

My pleasure!

Hi, thank you so much, appreciate your kind words and warm wishes. It means a lot to me to know that the knowledge and experiences I share is helpful to you. I remember one movie from India, the "Three Idiots", Sep. 05 was written on a wall😊. It is a special day for you. Wishing all the best to you in your learning journey!

Tq sir

Hi Raju, thank you for your question. First of all, there are different types of steering gears, the most common of which are rotary vane and ram-type. Depending on the type of steering gear you have, please refer to your gear's instruction manual for specific instructions on how to maintain and test your equipment. The presence of a VFD starter has little or no effect on the hydraulic lock alarm since it is primarily for the energy efficiency of the electric motor coupled to your pump. The main concern for a hydraulic lock is the continuity of the hydraulic fluid circuit being blocked or interrupted. Basically, a hydraulic lock occurs when: (1) there is a blockage of hydraulic fluid flow from the source (pump) via the directional control valve to the ram (fluid cylinder), which prevents the rudder from moving; or (2) there is a malfunction of mechanical or electrical parts. For example, if your ram is not moving after helm commands to move the rudder, the proximity sensor will detect this and trigger an alarm. To simulate the test, again, refer to your manual. The common way to test this is to remove the proximity sensor while the ram (cylinder) is moving so that it detects no movement and triggers an alarm. Alternatively, you can disconnect the electrical connection of the sensor to simulate the alarm. Another method is to manually close an isolation valve or partially close a directional control valve to block or restrict the hydraulic oil flow to the steering rams. This creates a condition where hydraulic pressure builds up without moving the rudder, mimicking a hydraulic lock. After completing the simulation test, ensure you return the sensor, wire connections, or valves to their original positions.

Didn’t have a chance, was advised to sent back to maker 😀.

My pleasure!

We do have a short video for this: #ProbeDD2024! Air CB UnderVoltage Relay Simulation Testing ua-cam.com/users/shortsX-jJbcA0Tb4?feature=share

@@ProbeLem but can we do that onboard with our normal tools?

If you have variac or variable voltage transformer, I’m sure you can😀✌️

If you have no special tool, test the salinity sensor itself: 1. Remove the sensor from the feedwater pipeline and leave it in the air (the salinity reading should be zero ppm). 2. Soak the sensor in distilled water (the values should be around 0-5 ppm). 3. Soak the sensor in saltwater (the reading should be more than 100 ppm, but the salinometer has a range of 100 ppm only. The high salinity alarm should be triggered at this point). 4. Finally, use a sample of water from the boiler feedwater and soak the sensor in it to verify if the water salinity is within the acceptable range. Of course, it depends on the specific system and configuration you have onboard. Keep on probing! 😀

Welcome!

Sorry about that

That very same suggestion was already raised by my colleague at the time of troubleshooting. And I said to him: There is an obvious clogged tubing of the windbox, shall we disregard it? Isn’t it better to fix the easy trouble first? The same question goes to you.

Happy to help