Відео

Lmao, I actually saw that and thought the same thing

Yup, that’s what I said

Good to hear you’re actually using it as intended. Drive the sheet out of it….

Having trouble understanding the question but… if there is a hole where the stud goes through than it needs an o-ring.

@blacksheepautoworx5304 sorry my 2012 f450 has an upper oil pan with a hole for the stud on the oil cooler will it be okay if I put one without a stud on it just make sure I replace all the gasket

All 4 gasket

Yeah, just install all the o rings.

No problem brotha

My bad homie, will do next time it’s the anti drain back valve it’s black plastic and a spring underneath it. When new it’s one piece

@@blacksheepautoworx5304 gracias 😆

Best advice I can give you is trace your wiring harness back from where it came from… last guy found an oil leak that had intruded the harness and was causing a short, they rail pressure will hardly ever get high enough to throw a high pressure code… with that being said it’s prolly a wire harness issue somewhere you can not see. It’s a pain but you will have to start taking things apart and trace the harness back look for anywhere it could be rubbing, pinching, coolant/oil leaks that are next to harness, and corrosion on pins to parts you replaced, also I have seen people stick multi meter probes in connectors and expand pins that will not make contact and cause theses issues.

Thank you so much

No problem hope you find it!

Did you do what I suggested in the video yet? If you just replaced the lower pump what was the reason? Any type of nicks or deeper scratching in the housing itself can cause this to happen. If you haven’t I would try what I had done. If it Doesn’t start like that than something is wrong with pump Or housing

Nice I’m glad you have a reputable owner that cares, I actually did get the UV protected liner but I think they skimped out on the product, seems thinner than it should be, I mean I know it’s not gonna be truck bed thick but some parts that came up are on the thin side, so I’m sure they skimped on the uv additive, either way awesome that your happy with it, I like mine but I just know it wasn’t done right. O well….

For sure man, I would say find a good reputable dealer that does good work, the product when done right does do what it’s supposed to do…. That being said if it’s done right than you wouldn’t need to be worried about dealing with corporate warranty crap! I never heard anything back to this day.

Thanks brother, yeah shit gets old a requires more tlc, 6.0’s, 6.4’s well they are just a pain in the ass that tlc doesn’t go a long way with them they are special, POS sounds about right lol. Keep it till it dies new trucks are the same shit boxes, they have 15 screens in them though so 100g’s is justified…. lol. Anything with a pre emissions cummins or a 7.3 will serve you right. Good luck thanks again

Key on yes, you should have voltage. The pressure regulator is basically on and off only. No voltage to regulator means it’s just going to pass fuel back to basically return. When you apply voltage it closes and allows it to build pressure. Check the pins on the harness connector to regulator. Sometimes they will expand and not make contact throwing the code and a no start condition. Take a small pick and try to close them up and try again. Hopefully it starts right up. If it does replace harness connector to pressure regulator. Good luck hope it works! The 200psi is just base line pressure on sensor

Thanks appreciate it, uhmm, I think I would try and stick a back probe in ground signal wire on the sensor connector and ground to a known good ground while plugged in and see if you can clear code. Let it run and see what it does, are you able to read live data? If you can watch rail pressure and see what it is doing. If you don’t have a back probe I know harbor freight as an inexpensive kit that would help.

It’s the rear seal for the crankshaft, aka rear main seal between engine and transmission

Yo, thanks my friend! I do like the idea of what it could be, honestly unless I had a guarantee from the line x installer and showed them the video and what you don’t want to happen lol, than I would skip it and maybe a wrap for protection. There is also raptor liner which seems to budget for a new truck but it works and you can get a good painter to put it down. Linex has special equipment that heats and mixes than pressurize the materials for gun. Raptor is like a regular paint and hardener but Pretty tuff and tintable just a thought as well. Hope you can get close to what you’re looking for. Paint is nice but always paranoid about scratches and clear coat peeling and all that

Yo, sorry that your having those issues, since you have already been through the ringer with the problems I would check the continuity from ecm plug to connector-> make sure you have resistance .02 .03 average for resistance in wire by itself and load test wire if possible OR run overlay wires from ECM pin out directly to sensor to rule out hidden harness damage that can’t be seen choice is yours just have to decide on which one. the diag tree will have a better way of testing but this is the easiest to explain. lol HOPE IT WORKS OUT 💪

Thanks man! I’ll see what I can find and I’ll let you know if your interested

Sure keep me posted

So here’s what I found I looked up a wire diagram and 1 wire from the pressure sensor connects to the throttle valve and the other wire that’s intact with it in the harness is connected to the crank position sensor. So I checked the wire harness for the crank position sensor and sure enough oil had saturated the wires corroded them together. Fixed that and all was good.

@shakenbake2844 F- yeah brotha glad to hear you got it going man! That’s bad ass… finding the problem in those harnesses are a pain it the butt. They are real tight spaces and of course covered up. Either way glad you got it and saved your self a hell of a lot of money. That’s awesome 😎

No problem my friend glad it helped, the new pigtails usually come with crimp and shrink tube kit from what I remember.

Thank you just a heads up for some of those guys doing this in their driveway and what to expect, not the funniest thing to be doing

lol, naw hell no, that was like a 19+ year model f350 with bells and whistles, more than likely it was sitting idle doing a stationary regen and he started driving while in the process causing white smoke and powerloss do to high oxidation catalyst temp. But I do work on them and they deserve the roast, PITA

Hey no problem glad it helped out

If you were close I would take you up on that. Lol

@blacksheepautoworx5304 😂😂 hell I might ship it to ya

You got the money I got the time, appreciate the vote of confidence. 👍

lol, for sure, that was my last resort just tried no to cut to far. It worked out no leaks all good. 👍

@@blacksheepautoworx5304 didn’t even scratch the threads what a steady hand brother i woulda broke it

I actually got into the threads a little but didn’t affect anything, so that was a plus lol. Thanks my friend you have a good one!

O agreed, I usually use for wiring outside of vehicle and trailers, ran out of non shielded metal crimps thanks appreciate it 👍

No problem brotha glad it helped out.

No this was a work truck high mileage, I think that’s what you meant? F250

Thanks my friend hope it helped out!

Yeah it will prime complete system, you should be good. The lpop does a horrible job of pulling oil if it’s not submerged in oil or even packed with Vaseline

Damn that’s a heavy bitch! I think I looked up long block and it stated 900 to 1000lbs. Just block heads and internals. I think the 6.4 is the heaviest I believe

A drained 4r100 auto trans for the 7.3 is 298 lbs w a triple disk tc in it

@luckyred1818 that’s good to know. Actually pulling one here soon to swap.

just picked this stand up and getting ready to put a 7.3 idi on it so it good to see this video

@bradconstable2915 glad it helped it will work well for you thanks

Agreed on that for sure but for $200 I would have imagine this was overlooked in the bean counting meeting. Any real professional engine stand and hoist would be in the thousands and would work in a manner that makes more sense for sure

What up? Ok if you can clarify this is a 6.7 or a 6,0? Also high pressure you mean high pressure fuel or high pressure oil! I guess that will be answered with correct engine info.

@@blacksheepautoworx5304 2016 6.7, i meant the high pressure fuel pump, thanks for your response

@adamm2716 ok now makes sense you should have desired rail pressure and actuall rail pressure when you have a scanner connected and watching those parameters on a data stream they should always match very closely. If the don’t than you have to start from there. Usually checking fuel flow and rail pressure sensor. 700 psi seems very low for any rail pressure reading. Usually engine needs 5000 psi in fuel rail to start. Hope this makes sense

No shet, I wasn’t aware that they where identical, funny how most tools made by same manufacturing plants, a number of big players, then all different price ranges and materials used. Any way sometimes the road less traveled as its rewards. Budget tools that work for you and saved some coin. A win in my book. Hope it meets your expectations brotha!

I completely agree with it wondering around for sure, but I wasn’t taking it very far so never bothered me BUT I did notice yes. For the 150.00 paid for it not bad at all

Man that sucks, but have had trouble myself with the T style stands. With this application it is a power tech hoist from o Reilly’s and the harbor freight stand. Since both where A frame style they spoon each other enough too get engine on and off, I have another video on that. As for the casters off I guess you could why not if it gives you the clearance.

Yeah because it is a T configuration, have the same ones here at the house. In that case I put the engine down on a tire and half turn the stand a weird way or I put the stand on the hoist legs. I know it’s stupid you think it would be done right already

For sure, honestly surprised it has lasted as long as it has. Still using it to this day, in a professional capacity I can say I trust the tool to work as good as any other brand. Maybe not the best or fastest but it works

lol, no problem. It’s a bit sketchy upgraded to an Essco 4400 pound trans jack. That thing can lift a Honda and the transmission and not blink an eye. Appreciate stay safe!

I hate to pick, all manufacturers have there issues. Seems like every ford mod engine I drive has this pre-ignition/knock issue.

You bet!

Glad it helped

Never heard it put that way but good description makes sense… I’ll take it.

It’s a possibility, but from what I can see so far stays within spec as per ecm data logging, plus the addition of octane tames the knock. It’s very high mileage almost 300k miles, so I’m assuming that the carbon build up on pistons and valves are prolly causing heat spots, plus a worn valve train and phasers as well, for now octane will feed it for the price per mile it’s cheaper.

Thanks my friend glad it helped you out. 👍

I’m sure I have it at work I’ll send it tomorrow morning

Can you send it to me along with the location of that sensor I have a 2008 f250 with the same issue

This should be the part number for the 6.7 pigtail for rail pressure sensor Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Connector - 2011-2022 Ford F250 Super Duty 6.7L V8 - Motorcraft 96694-02675383 BUT… the 08 is a 6.4 and that sensor is located under the passenger side valve cover mounted on fuel rail. Any auto parts store should carry it last one I bought from oreillys

Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Connector - 2011-2022 Ford F250 Super Duty 6.7L V8 - Motorcraft 96694-02675383 Sorry I’m sure you got it by now, got busy and forgot to send

I would check your high pressure fuel side than, need to connect to ecm and watch you rail pressure and compare it too desired rail pressure, another thing I have seen cause low rail pressure other than the cp3 pump dying is fuel filter on Bottom of truck sucking air. I would check those 2 things first. Good luck 👍

@@blacksheepautoworx5304 Thanks

@@e-ticket5625 yeah np, if you run into anything just hit me up I’ll get back to you

@@blacksheepautoworx5304 had all fuel rails and injectors replaced changed cp4 to cp3 with the anti disaster kit and fass fuel system do you think the fuel tank may be clogged or dirty?

I wouldn’t think it is, chances are slim but definitely a possibility. I have seen bugs and debris get caught in lines and banjo fittings. Since you have a fass do you have a fuel pressure gauge? You can ohm out that pressure sensor see if it’s in spec and good. Find a way to read live rail pressure data and check under a load. Check high pressure fuel fittings for tightness and check fuel system as best as you can for suction side leaks and inlet of fass for debris. Or if you know someone with the same truck ask to borrow they pressure sensor and test or you can buy one but a little pricey not crazy but we all have financial obligations so I get it

Thanks, there are some products that do what they are intended and some that are not. Just try to help people do good with their hard earned dollars. Appreciate it!