Відео

Thanks! It's nice to know others think it looks good, as I'm aware that sometimes I think they look better than they actually do!

Doing Smudger is great and a little different, can't imagine there are many people out there who have gone that route! Not sure what I'm doing with the couplers for now. I've kept hold of them and can easily fit them if I want to, but I'm wondering about doing something a bit less obvious if I can. Not that I envisage these doing much in the way of pulling anything given other than the test track I don't currently have anywhere to run them,

I didn't notice it having any smell at all, although I'm not particularly sensitive to chemical smells. My son usually complains when the modelling stuff smells and he didn't for this so fingers crossed you should be okay with it.

@ thank you

It's interesting that you say it isn't suitable for the Hornby version of the model. I have previously owned both a Hornby and Dapol example and they seem identical. Also the instructions for the chassis kit are explicitly entitled "Chassis kit for Hornby/Dapol L.Y.R. 'Pug'". Any thoughts on why it wouldn't work with a Hornby model? Also if you have the kit did it come with the hornblocks for compensation or would I have to buy those separately? I'll double check with High Level but it would be good to know in advance either way.

@@encoffeedrinker I had to go rummaging in my loft to find my kit. When I ordered it, I made sure all the additional parts needed (wheels/ motor etc) were included at additional cost. Now the Hornblocks and their corresponding brass front wheel bearings come in their own little bag and have a complete page of instructions to themselves. Luckily I'm a mechanical engineer because the kit looks very complicated for such a tiny little locomotive, but the diagrams look decent enough (for me anyway). Sorry, but it looks like I gave you a bum steer on the Hornby vs Dapol front. It's the original Airfix kit it can't be installed in say the instructions.

um yes, I really should have had more of a script planed out in advance for this video. I knew exactly what I wanted to say when I started and then my mind kind of went blank. Hopefully I've got a bit better at it since them, uh maybe!

Having looked at their instructions it doesn't seem difficult a build, although I've not yet worked out if the kit includes the horn blocks for the compensation or not. Will have to drop them a message and see exactly what I need to add to the kit prior to ordering one -- I hate ending up without all the right parts.

@@encoffeedrinker It's a project I would, and want to do, but, as little most modellers, I have a lot of unfinished projects on at the moment. 🤣

if you are anything like me it's not just a lot of unfinished projects but the huge box of unstarted kits as well!

Thanks, I'll give that a try and see what happens. Annoyingly it's been so long since I messed it up that I can't remember what I tried the first time around, but I don't think I used acetone so certainly worth a go.

Interesting.I have previously used Zap (I want to say green, but I can't remember how thick that was) but ended up switching to gorilla glue when I couldn't get it for some reason. I've not had any problems specifically with it (I always decant a tiny amount and then use a pin or thin wire to move it to where I need it), but I might try looking for Zap and their kicker next time I restock and giving it another try. I do really like the Gorilla Glue wood glue though, it seems to work really well.

If you've already got the milling column for the Unimat 3 then yes, I'd certainly try and pick one of these up as it makes it some much more useful as a mill rather than just a drill press.

@@encoffeedrinker I do, and I am also a model railway scratchbuilder, in 2mm and 4mm. I often need to make gearboxes and so on, and fine depth control would make it easier by a LOT.

Unfortunately not. As far as I know IP Engineering don't sell their own products through anyone else so the only place to get that chassis would be through them. I've found the owner to be helpful in the past (he even rang me when I had a question about one of his kits) so maybe drop him an email and see if you can come to some arrangement about posting to the US.

To be honest without it the milling column isn't really useful for milling anything accurately, at least as far as depth is concerned. I can't believe I didn't buy one sooner.

Yes, the Rapido announcement looks really great. The kit was a pain in places but really satisfying when I eventually finished it. Unfortunately given the "scale" of the kit I don't think it will go with the Rapido wagons very well otherwise I might have bought the wagon pack myself.

Yes apologies, I didn't make a good job of showing the etched cab sides. They are designed so you can build the cab either as it was originally built or the GWR rebuild. The original cab was shorter (front to back) so you would trim the etch along the half-etched line at which point the roof would probably be the right size. I'm doing the GWR rebuild though so don't need to cut it down and only need to punch out one set of rivets. I'll try and remember to explain that properly when I get to assembling the cab for real.

Thanks. Hopefully with the plastic cranks from Mosskito Narrow Gauge I should be alright; much easier than laminating etched cranks and trying to quarter and solder them to axles! As for the 3D printed smokebox, yes once I've finalized the design then I'll be more than happy to sell you one. If you want to drop me your details via my parts request form I can contact you when I'm happy with the design: docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdeDr5L_ot3iZXwCBlL4GHUmpzvxSyf0OzigW4lqmF2N69D9Q/viewform?usp=share_link

Thanks, glad you are enjoying the videos. Unfortunately, other than the test track, I don't currently have a layout on which to run any of the models. I did once build an N gauge layout but that got scrapped when I moved back to 4mm scale and above. Hopefully one day I'll get around to building some kind of layout, no idea what scale though!

Yes, it's a lovely runner. Just a shame the chassis isn't as useful for modelling as the Portram/Centram models.

Thanks! It's good to be doing some modelling again, and nice to know there are some people still interested in what I'm doing.

You won't regret getting one, it's made my life so much easier and not just for soldering. I've also been using them for holding small parts while painting them as it's so easy to adjust the orientation of the part. I'm sure I've seen a 3D printed case somewhere specifically designed to hold the pinecil as well, can't quite remember where but I'm sure a quick Google might turn up something you can use.

@@encoffeedrinker looking forward for mine to come! actually ordered it around a week ago but its gonna take some time. Glad to see Johan's design getting the love it deserves! Gotchaa ill look into that! thanks man!

Ooooh, how did I not know about the 2023 DVD release? Although it's certainly not a cheap set to buy. Might have to ask nicely when it comes round to my birthday.

Unfortunately they aren't the same motor bogie. This model uses the 11-104 model which as you can see in the video is approximately the same length as this loco. The trams we pull apart (the PORTRAM or CENTRAM) use much much smaller motor bogies, and while buying a tram is expensive I think given the engineering that goes into the bogies they are worth every penny if you want to model something so small you need one -- there is no way I could build a chassis for something like my G-Series Simplex or Alan Keef K12 models whereas I could potentially build a chassis for a Baguley-Drewry sized loco.

I've nothing but praise for the OMNIFIXO now that I've used it a bit more than when I did the review. I've found it not only great for soldering small electronic stuff, but also for holding small parts after painting etc. (I usually use a cocktail stick or something to hold the parts while spraying but then need someway of holding them while the paint dries). The whole thing just works so well, certainly the best "helping hands" style thing I've ever bought.

Thanks Iain. Of all the locos I've finished recently this is my favourite and I had a feeling it would probably be yours too. Building it was a very good excuse to watch some episodes with my sons and to read them the book, over and over again!

Yeah, in retrospect that makes a lot more sense, which means they should be a little further towards the edge. Hmm, now have to decide if I fill the holes and move them or leave them where they are. Will have to have a look at a bunch more photos and see how I feel about their current placement.

Interestingly I was thinking Tamyia as an option before I stumbled across the Army Painter primer. Will remember to give it a try at some point.

Glad you enjoyed the design process and final model. I'm thinking I might thin all paints just a touch in the future as well, just in case I have any more that have gone at all "funny" since I bought them.

Happy to hear you're enjoying the videos and finding them useful. As to the pronunciation, no I've not taken any advice and I'm guessing I'm butchering the Welsh names quite badly!

Thanks! Glad you liked it.

I'm still amazed I stayed calm enough to continue filming! My heart was racing so fast it certainly felt like a heart attack

Not quite sure exactly what I'm going to do for Dolgoch yet. I do have the Narrow Planet detailing kit for that model as well (I actually helped design and test some parts of that kit) so will be doing more than just a simple repaint, but haven't decided exactly how much of the original model I'm going to destroy in the process.

It was a serious "heart in mouth" moment and had I damaged it I probably would have stopped recording. Given all the issues I had with wiring and then breaking the footplate in half almost at the end I suppose I was due some good luck with this model so thankfully not a scratch on it. I will be more careful in future though when filming to hold tight to completed models!

@@encoffeedrinker I can imagine. You stayed pretty cool. Respect! Maybe putting it on a battery operated spinning table. I've got one, quite useful for presentations. They are inexpensive and it will look also more professional in your video.

I could be wrong but I think the Pinecil v2 is already running IronOS, at least that's what the website claims. I may see if there is a firmware update though, always worth having the latest features.

That sounds like an interesting build. I've not seen a price for his belt drive chassis yet but I assume they'll be cracking value like the other models. My only concern, from looking at a couple of product photos, is that there will be no way to change the belt. So if it snaps or gives over time you'll lose the 4 wheel drive. I guess that's less likely to be a problem in this scale than the smaller scales (belts in OO9 can be a problem over time) but it is one of the reasons I liked the use of a chain as it can be replaced or tweaked if necessary.

@@encoffeedrinker it's not available yet, he mentioned it through email while I told him my plans of doing a link rod conversion on the boxcab to which he sent the extra parts free of charge, I'd assume ittl be a toothed belt, the only way it could be changed once built would be to have slotted gaps for the wheel bearings instead of holes and some sort of printed C channel that can be screwed to the bottom of the chassis to hold them into place meaning the complete wheel set is removable

@@adamswindells1 the photos I've seen suggest two plastic pulleys and a smooth belt with no obvious way of replacing it, but I guess we'll need to see once it's actually available

@@encoffeedrinker I'd rather just use gears than a belt, I was thinking of using differential gears from a small rc truck and a drive shaft, I may try and design and print own chassis at some point with an under frame horizontal motor with dual shafts if I can find one the right size or fit a horizontal motor infront/behind the axle instead of between the axles and a counterweight at the other end and run a shaft and gear setup from a WPL rc truck or somthing I'm not sure yet, I need to get my printer setup again and find my laptop to design again

Looks like I've been cleaning my airbrush wrong! Will give that approach a try next time I have it out, as I've been blowing the left over paint out through the brush every time, which sounds like it's my main problem. Thanks!

Sounds like a much better idea than trying to drill into the small parts, at least for the round headed bolts. Will have a have a look to see what I can find for the next build.Thanks!

Thanks! As I say in the video it was more than a bit of a challenge to get it finished but I'm really happy with how it turned out, but it's nice to know I'm not deluding myself and that others thing it's pretty good too.

@@encoffeedrinker seriously, this is the first model of Ivor the engine in this scale that actually looks like Ivor. and it’s gorgeous

Yes, it would be nice to make the holes real holes but I just don't have the resolution or the right resin to do that at this size. Can't imagine how fiddly it must be getting it to work on an FDM printer.

I do like the blue, but with all the bodywork changes I've done to try and put it back closer to it's early life, a dark green seems like a better option. Certainly if I was doing another conversion with less body work changes I'd be quite tempted by the blue.

@@encoffeedrinker well bachmann is making Talyllyn with the three livery's green red and black

Yes, with Bachmann doing the other liveries the blue certainly would make sense for a straight repaint.

@@encoffeedrinker oh yea i forgot to ask how do you get the Running board off of skarloey's chassie?

If I remember correctly I just cut it off with a small razor saw and then cleaned it up with some files.