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I can say I like the CNswipower inverter I have. For the price it is good and very quiet. The batteries are getting cheaper. Except some brands like battleborn. If I had waited, I could have saved about half of what I paid for my batteries. I got some mid-priced ones and at the time they all had low temp protection. Now you can get that on much cheaper batteries.

@@jw3843 yeah i hear yeah and thanks for sharing

Sounds like you should have plenty of power.

I just looked it up. Not rated for the same weight limit. This one is rated at 600 pounds, the one on Harbor Freight is rated at 250 pounds. Would be nice to see how much it can actually support. Thanks for watching.

@jw3843 I'm 355 n they've held my fat butt for years. Idk about 600 though

@@cottonpreppinpoor2709 That is really good. I might get one of those and try it.

Thanks, the chair is good. Thanks for watching.

Thunder bolts better and best are usually always better than their free or lower end. I'm really not surprised. Bauer and hercules batteries use name brand samsung cells. Dewalt and others use Chinese third party cell.

The yellows are a different chemistry altogether. I never get them unless they're free or nearly so, and only use them to keep the memory of an LED penlight I use twice a year.

They are CanadianSolar brand panels. I got them at Santan Solar. Two are 230 watt panels wired in parallel and the other two are 255 watt panels wired in series. The panels put out 36 volts VOC when not plugged into anything, around 28 to 32 volts when they are plugged into the power station per panel. The ones wired in series tend to give more power at around 50 volts up to 10 amps, the others give me less power at around 36 volts up to 15 amps which is limited by the pecron inputs. Parallel is better for shaded areas and series is better for no shade. But any brand panel with near those rating will work. Just make sure to not exceed the 95 volts maximum when wiring them in series. With these you can only safely do 2 panels in series.

Any idea where to buy a replacement sensor?

New as in not used, yes. All the thunderbolts were bought within a week of this video from a local store and out of the package, they all have a 5 year shelf life date on them. The duracell is a battery from a pack probably bought around 2 years ago but not used, the date on it was march 2030, and they are supposed to last 10 years on the shelf, so probably made in 2020.

Epic comment. Don't give up your day job.

It's ETL listed; ETL (now part of Intertek) is a competitor to UL, and ETL listing is equally valid in the US (both are OSHA Nationally Recognized Test Laboratories). Sure, the build quality isn't great; it's from Harbor Freight. But while I'm not an expert in product safety, I don't see anything obviously unsafe in the video.

@@thomasquetchenbach4053 My first thoughts were also that saying it conforms with UL 1363 is not enough! But a check on Intertek and ETL Listing states that ETL IS recognized in the US. However, with MANY years experience with European, UL and CSA approvals, UL has a tendency to get foreign approvals discreditted and ignored by the majority, so that they forcus only on UL approvals! But that is the industrial market. Retail could be less stringent aka don't give a shit! Regarding safety, I do question the uninsulted solid wires used between outlets inside the housing! The actual creepage & clearance distances between those parallel wires is a question mark in my eyes, but the huge lumps of solder at the barrier strip terminals - without any insulating sleeves - is a big no-no for me! The 'barrier' ridges between the faston tabs are not high enough to provide real insulated separation between the soldered tabs. So that IS a fire risk to me! What gets me is these large retail companies appear to have zero quality control, and simply accept anything they can get for cheap from China! I am reminded of the extension cords with male plugs on each end - so-called 'suicide cords'!

It's better than the standard of the rest of his wiring.

so I assume you are an electrician, and can explain why that would be unsafe.. there is basically no difference in that and how your house is wired. if you mean there is no surge protection. sure there isn't but you wouldn't generally have that in your average house. it's rated for 15 amps which is all an average wall outlet is rated for anyway. the wire inside seems properly sized for that application if you mean that all the wires are exposed inside that's also true but you are a dumbass if you open it while its plugged in and you deserve to get shocked. and the oxidation probably isn't a problem. there is also probably a circuit breaker in the switch so there is not anything more or less unsafe about this one then one you buy that was made in the USA it's six outlets in parallel with a switch. what does being made in china have to do with it?

@@ballardtech827 - what is wrong with made in china? If you can't answer that, you are part of the problem. Go out in '24 and vote for Obiden....again. btw -- where did I say this was unsafe?

“If you mean there is no surge protection. sure there isn’t but you wouldn’t generally have that in your average house.” You live in a match stick house covered in tin foil? 😂

@@anavan7 - ....you don't get it either do ya. It still surprises me how many sheep there are in this country.

@@anavan7 sure if your house was built in the united states in the last 15 years or so you probably have AFI and GFI breakers but most of us still have electrical systems from before that.. but still surge protection isn't required in most jurisdictions. And most people who are paying me to wire their house don't want to spend the extra on a whole house surge protection device. I've been an electrician for over 20 years i do actually have experience with this. you voted for trump and think the election was stolen and they are all coming over the border to have their way with our women and take our jobs

Thank you. One of those bus bars I got from BigBattery.com and the other I got from BatteryEvo.com. Almost the same price. I did get some emails from both companies recently saying that batteryevo was saying they made products for BigBattery, but also got emails from bigbattery saying batterevo is a chinese ripoff company lying about doing any kind of business with bigbattery. So, who knows. Either way they seem like good bus bars with copper nuts and washers. I think brass bolts. May the solar be with you also.

I will check tomorrow. I know the inverter takes a small philips head screw driver, I have not tried opening the main unit yet.

@@jw3843 I have a keen interest in the screws that secure the power bank case; there are a total of 8 of them. In my attempt to inspect them using an endoscope, the results were inconclusive. None of the Allen key screwdriver bits I experimented with appeared to match the screw heads, which hints at the possibility of them being a non-conventional or non-standard type. I think they don't want it to be opened by anyone.! Thank you sir!

@@satan2260 Most likely they are either the security star head bits or a special Allen head bit. My electronics repair kit does not have any bits long enough to reach them. I will have to find and try my Allen heads tomorrow. But just looking at them with a flashlight I would guess they are around 20H size security star bit. I will have to see if I have any screw heads that can actually reach them.

@@jw3843 I already tried with a metric and imperial Allen set, but none of them are compatible! I will buy a 20H size security star maybe it fits! If you discover the myth, please let me know! Thank you for your help!

@@satan2260 I found out what fits. A T8 or T9 star bit. Both fit and seem tight but I think T9 is probably the better size for it. I got one of the screws out with that. Needs to be long and thin to reach it like the Allan wrenches, 2.5 to 3 inches should work, I would buy a 3 inch one to be safe. I have one set of screwdriver bits that would work. I got it years ago, I think if you have a precision star bit in that size it will work provided it is long enough to reach the screws. The star bits for my drill are too big to fit in the hole. Mine is a craftsman precision multitool with multiple, very thin and long screwdriver ends.

Most days it gets to 100%. I do not really get good sun until about noon, and by 6 pm it is usually full. With the storms I have had to charge it from the grid a few more times. But around 7 or 8 times so far this year.

Thanks. Glad it helps. I think today was the last day of their sale for $5, but the regular price is $5.50.

I would say the simple answer is to test them like a regular battery. Not sure what kind of tester you are using. I do not have any rechargeable alkaline batteries. The charger I have is for NiMH, NiCd and Li-ion batteries. It can discharge any battery that will fit, it discharges them all the same at whatever rate it is set to. So, if you want to see the capacity then that is all you need to do. Not sure how you are testing them. But you can do a discharge test just like I did with any battery and if it is rechargeable then you can recharge it with the proper charger. I would not trust my charger to charge a battery that it is not made to charge just to keep something bad from happening.

@@jw3843 oh ok, I’m using a tester called Bat-o-meter and it has a few settings for different batteries. I recently bought some pale blue rechargeable batteries that are supposed to be lithium ion alkaline batteries that recharge with a usb type C cable. I contacted pale blue as well but they havnt replied yet.

@@jw3843 thanks for replying back 👍🏼

@@cautivonorteno You are welcome. Thanks for watching the video.

Thanks, you too! The best price battery evo has had so far. 329 dollars. I got it with 10% off for 296 and free shipping.

That would depend on the furnace or air conditioner. It cannot make 240 volts that most house air conditioners need to run. It would run a 115- or 120-volt window unit or portable air conditioner between 3 to 4 hours nonstop without solar coming in if it runs at 500 watts, and if you maxed out the solar input then you should get ac most of the day. I do not think it would last through the night. If you got the extra batteries then it could easily get you through the night. You can add 2 external batteries at 3000 watt hours each for a total of 8000 watt hours which if the window unit pulls 500 watts per hour would give you roughly 16 hours of run time without power coming in. Most gas furnaces run off 115 volts so it could run one. I could not say for how long. I do not know the power draw of most gas furnaces. But I would guess about the same as a window unit. That being said most window units pull around 600 to 800 watts, you can find ones that pull less. The bigger the window unit the more power it will use. I have an 8000 btu inverter window unit that runs up to 900 watts at the highest speed, runs down to 150 watts at the lowest speed and usually is running between 400 and 650 watts trying to maintain a temperature.

@@jw3843 Thank you.

@@tomroach6275 You are welcome.

My house A/C went out in July and it took a couple weeks to fix. So I figured it was a good time to test the Pecron. I have the E2000 and it ran an 8,000 BTU window A/C which was 660 watts for a little over 3 hours just off battery. I have since bought the EB3000 so I have a total of 4992 watts. So now I should be able to get 7.5 hours just off battery. But it will run the window A/C unit just fine, and adding in solar panels will extend those run times by however big your array is.

Yes, I have had to charge it 3 times off of ac power due to days of rainy weather in the last 8 months. But so far it is running both of the fridges with no issues just off solar. I was running just the freezer on it until last week. Also using it to charge other small power stations when needed. It is sitting at 80 percent right now and the sun has been down for about 4 hours. Yesterday it was at 100 percent before 6 pm. I have a total of about 800 watts connected, usually get somewhere around 300 to 600 watts in.

@jw3843 thanks, I just ordered it

@@pilinke11 Just something I thought about, if your fridge has a freezer, it might have a defrost in it. It will pull a lot more power when that runs. The unit should have no issue running it, but it won't last as long because of the extra power. So, you might need more solar than 800 watts to keep up if it does, you can get up to 1200 watts solar if you have the right set up. 600 per input.

@jw3843 yeah I just found 4× 310w or 4x 330w setup a person is selling used, I will try to get the 4x 330w run each pair in series to get around 83v and 10a that should be enough to keep the freezer 24/7 on a good day

It is a very nice one. I wish it had a higher solar voltage input but otherwise it is a very good one.

It is the Pecron e2000lfp power station. I made a video about it earlier because I saw a video of the pecron e600lfp power station having the issue on the usb side and tested my e2000 to see if it had the same issue. Apparently if you use the 100 watt usbc port it will lower the power if you use the one next to it on the e600, the e2000 does it with the one under it and guessing with the usbc 18w next to it, pretty much means they cheaped out on the usb side.

Good to know. Glad you found out, I never bothered testing them since I am only using mine to run a 115 volt freezer and to charge my other power stations from it since it gets the most solar input. Mine definitely does have the issue on the usbc 100 and the usbA port underneath it. Seems to have some issues with the 18 w usbc and the port under it also but did not completely reset, the ones going across the side of the usbc seem to be fine to use at the same time.

@@jw3843 yeah I didn't find out till I went camping a few weeks ago and I've owned it for 2 months. Plugging in more devices than usual meaning only 3 devices is how I found. I read from an Amazon review that he has same issue but I disregarded as an isolated issue until it happened to me. I wonder how many units if not the whole 600 lfp line has been affected. I do have a band-aid solution by using a cigarette lighter adapter phone charger with USB C and A for extra ports. But even then I'd still want those additional ports working since that's part of the reason I bought it

@@DoritosResidue I understand that. At least the 2000 model has 3 rows so you can plug at least 3 things in, but my oukitel does not have that issue and has 2 100 watt usbc ports, 2 qc usba and 2 reg usba. I have not found an issue with any of the other brands I have either. The adaptor will work. I bought one a few years ago. Just recorded me using it. have to make the video still.

@@jw3843 yeah I have ecoflows and a bluetti no problems with those sogens. We'll see how it goes , the outcome will determine if I decide to keep buying their products or not.

Yep, figured that out during the video about the solar and dc being the same line. I unplugged the solar and it actually showed a negative for the output. As far as the usbc, it says 100 watt on it. But the River 2 only has a 60 watt max input/output through the usbc port. It is the slowest way to charge it. But it is dc to dc so why not. I do not know if I have anything that takes 100 watts usb c to power. Both my small power stations that have input/output usbc only do 60 watts.

@@jw3843 That makes sense So maybe you do have a newer version :)

Not sure what sound you are talking about. If you are talking about the loud ping noise, then that would be the hammer hitting the anvil inside the impact drill and probably going through the tire. The grinding noise is probably the gears inside the drill. It seems to be a weak impact drill. May have something wrong with it. Which if you watch Project Farm video on these, the ones that look like this were weaker than the others. ua-cam.com/video/5AU_a4jeb1o/v-deo.html&ab_channel=ProjectFarm You can use the link, may have to copy and paste it, for the video he made testing a bunch of them.

You are welcome. Glad I found out about your business. I think it was the cheaprv living channel I first heard about it.

Other than my new Pecron 2000, the vigorpool unit is the best I have. It is more efficient and lighter then the other ones. Pecron is the only one that is as efficient on the ac side. I think the vigorpool is more efficient on the DC side. The only issue I have with it is the app only works with certain wifi speeds. And I cannot change any setting without the app.

I got mine from the Pecron website and used Jasonoids code from his review from 2022, it saved 5%, something like 49 or 59 dollars. I checked the price from both before making the decision. No tax and free shipping on Pecrons website made it cheaper than from amazon. You can save more money on amazon from the listed price if you use someone's code like Ramblin' Bob Reviews, he has a code that should take off 149 dollars or around 10% and a link if you want to use it on his youtube channel, but because of tax it will cost more in the end, at least it did when it was in my cart after tax was added. If you want someone like amazon to be a go between just in case of issues, then you can order from there. I ordered it on Saturday and received it the following Friday from Pecron, it shipped from California. As far as the beeping noise is concerned, I have not noticed one. I am not next to it all the time so it might at some point. I just went to see if I could hear it and I did not notice anything but a small amount of noise that sounded like a computer fan. I had to put my ear next to it to hear that. It is not charging right now since it is dark now, and I am not sure when other people are hearing the noise. I did get the 2nd updated version.

Missed the "any issues" part. I have not had any yet. I have not had it long. Got it last week and started the video and about 5 days between receiving it and hooking up the solar panels to it. If you watch the other videos I made, I have it hooked to 4 solar panels and it is running a 115-volt chest freezer. So far it has kept the freezer running for over 48 hours. I did not order a second ac charger but the one I got with it works, i missed putting that into this video, It charged at around 545 watts. So, if you want to charge it faster from ac power then you will have to order a second charger. I think they are around 60 to 70 dollars, I could be wrong about the price. They may be over $100.

Thank you.

You are welcome. During my test, i had both window units plugged into the same extension cord and they shut off around 1900 watts, when i unplugged the cord it was hot to the touch. Running both on the same outlet and cord not a great idea, I should have had them on separate cords. So just make sure they are plugged into different outlets and not the same cord and you wont have that issue.