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That sounds like a great project. Good luck with it. I’m still working on mine but don’t have enough time to make videos of the process. I don’t know anything about Pontiacs. But y distributor is locked into position with a set screw that goes through the engine block. It’s quite a large bolt and is easy to see. If you take that out the distributor lifts out. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching.

I ordered that from Gary Wallace. It came in a rebuild kit with new bushings and washers.

I’m glad you like it. Thanks for watching.

That’s awesome! I’m glad I could help! I haven’t posted a video in a while because I haven’t been able to work on mine for bit. I will get more out soon I hope.

@@lunchtimerestorations1490 I’m having a problem with the gas tank, I have a feeling their is a problem with the outlet. I feel like the internal pickup tube is bad or missing completely. Would love to see a gas tank video :)

Thanks for watching

Yea! What’s up buddy.

At some point in the vehicle’s history, it was chopped into a truck. I have the front doors and the cowl. The rest is gone. The plan is to fabricate a truck cab for it and probably a flat bed. But first I have to get the motor running. That’s why I haven’t posted any new videos. Good luck with your project. Keep me posted on your progress.

@@lunchtimerestorations1490 in the depression-era you could do more with a truck and during the war you could double your gasoline rations if you had a truck instead of a passenger car. I have an entire 28 body and was thinking of making a 5 window pickup but I actually like the back of the sedan body the way it comes back in at the bottom as I think it matches the lines of the truck better and makes it look less square or blockish. I was just going to build a box to match it that lines up with the original rear fenders. Like most early Chevys I have minimal wood so I am super excited to see somebody who knows how to work with wood make pieces for it unless of course you're just going to weld up a tube frame with metal inside of it which was my other option I can weld fairly well and have pretty good experience with woodworking so either way I am subbed for this build!😁👍

The cylinders were worn. It was recommended that I have them bored out.

@@lunchtimerestorations1490 ahhh that makes sense 🤦‍♂️ Dont know why i didnt assume as much

Thanks for sharing. I hope it’s the right size pulley. I assume it is, because it’s what I took off of it. Is your mother still with us?

@@lunchtimerestorations1490 Sadly, she passed away in 2017, one day shy of her 89th birthday.

The smaller the pulley the more output from the generator. Later model cars had higher current requierments ... needing nore current from generator. BTW this is a 3 brush generator. Meaning its feild coil is supplied by the generator and should give a more or less constant. Later generators were 2 brush and a voltage regulator unit.

Sorry. I would not know which goes to which. Good luck.

Hahaha. How handy would that be? Thanks for watching and for the encouragement.

That’s great! Thanks for watching.

Thank you very much.

I agree. Luckily I did not trust this engine when I got it. The person before me thought that just cleaning and painting stuff was a restoration.

I appreciate the feedback. There are no shims under the main caps because they had the correct clearance without them. In the future, they will need to be re-babbited. I did not check for back lash because I have never heard of that. Can you explain what that is and how to check it? I was sure to use Locktite on the screws. You got me concerned on your previous comment about having the first piston in TDC. I have read different opinions on this matter. I have been using information found on the VCCA chat forum that stressed it was not an issue. Would you agree with that now? If not, could you explain what could happen if I don’t go back and make sure it’s in TDC? Thanks for watching and for the feedback. I find it helpful and I’m sure others do too. Jim

@@lunchtimerestorations1490 I have had 3 x '28 Chevy engines apart and put together again, a few yrs ago and I forget how I timed the cam gears, I know it was a puzzle! The book shows how to fit the gears as you have them, then the next sentence goes on about how to find TDC, very ambiguous and odd. But you can put in number 1 piston and intake lifter which should start to lift when the piston is around 1/16" down from TDC. That's the figure for an AA motor, which has a different cam, oddly again they don't give one for the AB! But it will tell you if anything is miles out. Be sure to put all the lifters in their original places or the cam may wear quickly. You can check how much clearance you have in the crank and rod bearings by placing a strip of .002 cooking foil on the crank pin and then tightening the cap. If the crank still turns easily there may be too much wear, if you put 2 strips (.004") and it does not turn it should be ok, do one bearing at a time.The crank lash or end float should be 003 to .006 any more and you may get clonking when you press the clutch, more annoying than dangerous..

Thank, Dale!

Thanks for watching and for the response! I hope it was helpful to you.

I did check for straightness. According to a knowledgeable friend, it was in great condition. The valves are new.

Thanks for pointing out the hole in the front bushing. The original, or the one I took out, did not have one so I did not think to drill one. But, now that you mention it, it makes a lot a sense to have it. I will go back and drill one. I need to flip the fan mounting plate around anyway. I will make an update in my next video. Thanks for watching. And thanks for all the help.

Thanks for watching and the kind words.

There was a hole in the lower bushing. I made sure to line it up with the hole in the body. Another viewer just pointed out that I should drill a hole in the upper bushing in order to allow oil to get in there.

I don’t think you need to drill the front bushing. The brass should be oilite which is an oil impregnated brass keeping the cup oiled is all it needs. The grease on the rear one protects the steel shaft. Yaounde need to use calcium based grease. The Filling Station sells it. I own a 28

Thanks for the information. I will order some on my next order. How long have you owned your 28?

About 14 years.

Where can I purchase this kit…??

Got it. I will go back and clean it off. Thanks for the advice. I will mention the correction in the next video.

@@lunchtimerestorations1490 Sorry if my comment came across as doom-sounding. It was rather late at night when I saw the video and when you oiled the bendix gear, I had to rush a reply. To explain in more detail: The bell housing on those pre-war Chevys does not protect or keep dirt and debris out. Oiling the bendix gear means that the oil will very quickly gum up and turn to a thick paste, which will prevent it from spinning back out of the way when the engine kicks over. Dust from the clutch is a large culprit. Gummed up badly enough and the momentum from the flywheel as it spins up on starting will cause that pin inside the bendix gear to bend and lock up in the grove. If it happens when the bendix gear is still near the flywheel ring gear, and it'll shatter and break off the ring gear teeth. (Or in my case, it'll lock up the engine completely as it wasn't able to slide back at all when it happened) This is most likely how that pin on the original bendix gear in your video was bent. They had a bad start and the momentum bent the pin. They filed and altered the bendix worm to make due - something you find on old barn-find vehicles. The Depression and World War II made it hard to get replacement parts for things, so people had to be resourceful. The Bendix drive gear, while it is a moving part, isn't critical to have any oil. It only is used when you start the engine. Slides in when the starter revs up, slides back when the engine kicks over. Not enough movement (and not constant) to warrant oiling, and as long as you're smart when starting your vehicle, it should last easily for your lifetime.

It was not too doom sounding. I kind of thought that oil was a bad idea to begin with. You just confirmed my suspicion. I really appreciate the information. Any tips or advice is very helpful. Thanks again. I should have a video on the water pump in a week or so. I would be interested in what you think of how I installed the packing.

@@lunchtimerestorations1490 Looking forward to it! I've not actually restored the water pump on mine, so that's going to be interesting to see.

Thank you for the feed back! This is exactly why I started the channel; to learn, and help others that are doing similar projects. I just wish I would have gotten before I reassembled the starter. Haha. Thanks again. This will be helpful in future projects.

No, brushes most definitely won't "wear in" on their own. They need to be sanded at installation to conform to the shape of the commutator or they will arc and burn, and may damage the regulator.

That was a great reply and very helpful to me thanks

Aaron, if he had an armature lathe and turned the commutators would the squealing be non existent? I know for your average person won’t have that tool but just for reference?

@@endurocatfish I would assume so? But.. in hindsight and looking back at it now, there could be another cause for the squealing, such as a bad bearing (I know, he replaced them, but that doesn't mean there wasn't a problem with the new one). There is one thing that I thought could be done, and that is to secure a piece of sandpaper around the commutator with some double-sided tape (not overlapping the sandpaper). 220 wet-or-dry might be too much.. maybe 320? Reassemble the generator, then spin the generator to sand down the brushes to the proper curve of the commutator. (could hook it up to a drill and spin it, or if you have a running motor, can pully it. I have an old Ford 8n tractor that technically could spin it and sand down the brushes. Would not want to run it for very long at all.) I'm not saying that'll work.. just a thought that entered my mind when I was re-watching the video. I don't have a lathe myself. Only other option I can think beside that is to just take it into an electrical machine shop and let them do it, but that does cost money.

Fire and car parts always go great together. 😉 Yes, that’s the brushes rubbing on the commutator. I assume that will go away as it’s used. Hopefully someone on here will let me know. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching! This is my first time with rebuilding an engine as well. So I don't know much about all this stuff, but I am learning a lot. I hope the videos help you out. Let me know if you have any questions. I will try and help if I can. If you haven't already, be sure to like and subscribe. It would be helpful to me. Thanks again.