Відео

@@Jdinaz thank you I appreciate you you! Just remember Springfield does zero tuning. I have two prodigy’s and both of them had out of tune extractors. So it wouldn’t hurt to pull your slide. Remove your barrel and guide rod. And use a new round for weight purposes and insert it behind the extractor against the breach face. Rotate your slide 360°. The bullet should not fall out. You should be able to shake the slide 5 to 10 times and then the bullet should fall out. The last part is really subjective because of the variations. But if the bullet does not stay secure while you rotate 360° it is too loose. And you will need to tighten it a little bit. I have a video that is pretty recent showing my brand new 5 inch prodigy unable to secure around at all.

@@americantrucker9813 I’ll check it. The extractor SEEMED to be pretty tightly sprung with quite a curve in it. I’m pretty pleased with the machining and assembly this far. Great slide to frame. No goobers to speak of anywhere. No mush in the thumb or grip safeties. I have high hopes for it. But the trigger was definitely attorney proof.

@@Jdinaz they are definitely well-made firearms! Don’t mistake what I said, saying they are junk. Most of them just need a simple tuning. I will say the slide to frame fitment is very nice unfortunately they were fitted after cerakote so once the coding wears off the frame rails. It won’t be as tight. But the simplest fix for that is to keep it lubed nicely. If you have any feeding issues, or ejecting issues. The first thing I would check as I said would be the extractor, but also the chamber reeming. You can easily check that by taking the barrel out and inserting all of the different types of ammo you use. The bullets should go in and fall out Via gravity alone. I found on my commander. It was a little tight and didn’t like some ammo. But my 5 inch was perfect.

Yes, the atlas comes with the marvel cut. And I should add I would do no such thing to such an expensive firearm. I’ve made material modifications to the atlas. Just some cosmetic upgrades. And I had to cerakote their grip module because the DLC coding wore off so very fast. Definitely the weakest DLC coating I’ve ever seen.

@@americantrucker9813 I did the marvel cut to my 1911 myself with a file and it is as smooth as butter. Does most 2011 have the marvel cut as well, the reason why they’re so smooth? Thanks again.

It is definitely an improvement! That is why I recommend it but I would imagine that the higher end 1911s & 2011s have it but I don’t know. I do know it would cost money to do it and most places are all about making money. So some probably don’t.

@@americantrucker9813 Thanks for your time replying back.

You’re very very welcome, my friend that is why I do this! I am no expert. I just try to help out my fellow Americans!

@@adibee88 you’re very welcome and I appreciate that my friend thank you!

@@americantrucker9813 Absolutely my Brother, Semper Fidelis!⚡

@@ngirardo86 well I appreciate the tip, my friend, but I don’t have any use for a better one. I don’t work on guns for a living and I don’t work on anyone else’s guns so it does the trick for me. To each his own as I always say.

@@adibee88 your welcome.

@@davidmydo7636 egw keyed reverse plug. Atlas gun works tooless guid rod. And no

@@FCOD I’m sorry you’re having issues! I don’t use my atlas slide stop. I used a triarch intermediate slides stop from www.triarcsystems.com/product/triarc-systems-intermediate-slide-stop-tri-11-2011-platform/ it does require modification to fit the atlas frame, which is wider than a standard 2011. But it is very reliable. It has a very thick shelf to engage the magazine follower. It functions reliably with my underpowered prodigy magazines. The first thing I noticed with my Atlas was the single magazine that came with it had an overpowered magazine spring I guess 20% but I’m not sure. Anyways, that is what they rely on for reliable lockback and still, it didn’t seem to work too well. I haven’t had very good luck with Atlas customer service. They are very slow to respond. And they offer very little actual help. Hopefully, you’ll have better luck.

I actually don’t know my friend. They are the brass Lok grips. They are a bit heavier but nothing too crazy

@@americantrucker9813 Appreciate you getting back to me, but heavy is what I want. Passed on the aluminum ones because the brass will be much heavier, I love metal guns so I want the complete metal feel. Hopefully the raw brass color contrast well with the legion grey color. You're the only one on YT that has showed these on the gun.

@@Algemene you’re welcome that’s what I’m here for my friend. Well if heavier is what you like then the brass are 1000% the way to go. Let me know how you like them. because in my opinion they are like a real life cheat code.! But the ones I got have the aggressive texture and it really balances the gun and makes it stick to your hand. If you did order the aggressive and it is too aggressive for you. You can lightly sand with 2000 grit any sharp points. I sanded lightly on the left grip where it touches my body in the holster.

@@americantrucker9813 one more question, the grip are raw brass correct, not plated or have some type of finish on them? I'm going to use a darkening solution to get an aged look out of them.

@Algemene no problem, they are pure brass.

@@RedRoFC that is where I got my barrel you can buy it any other place if that is the barrel you want I don’t have any real complaints with it, but I didn’t enjoy my interaction with that company. They took six weeks to ship the barrel and they decided to make it adult signature required without telling me so it ended up getting sent back because I wasn’t home. But the grips are amazing.lokgrips.com/sig-sauer-p365/sig-sauer-p365-axg-macro-gridlok-brass/ and I highly recommend them! They are worth the money and very fast shipping. I ordered the brass aggressive and I will say they are like using a real life cheat code! I cerakoted them myself but you can run them with the factory brass color and a TIN barrel and they go together very nice. I have some other videos showing that.

@@americantrucker9813 I was tempted to get the polymer version of instead because it had removable back straps. The link to barrell didn't load Edit- see it now lol

@@RedRoFC zaffiriprecision.com/product/barrel-sig-p365xl-flush-crown-tin-gold/ barrel link

Does it shoot better with the longer barrel?

Well, I think that is honestly subjective. I think so personally and I think I’m more accurate with it but to get it to fit, you have to modify the slide so there’s no way for me to put the old one in to do a close comparison I wouldn’t recommend modifying the slide. I ended up buying a new slide anyways because I didn’t like the slide cuts. I bought the spec ops slide from norrso and it is excellent! It comes with a DLC coating that is top notch but it’s probably a waste of money to be honest

Thank you, my friend and I have two different dual mag pouches with a belt clip. I believe I got one of them from Amazon and one from Cabela’s, but they are pretty much all the same in the fact that you can adjust the angle of the belt clip.

@@airmann4673 I really appreciate that my friend it is much needed! Thank you very much. God bless you and yours!

@@Bazzmotives I can certainly help my friend! Stay down against the Firing pin ? Or stay down as in cocked ?

@@Bazzmotives if it’s not resting on your firing pin than it could be your hammer strut may be too short and the lack of main spring engagement with the strut is allowing the firing pin spring to push the hammer back a small amount. Easy fix, hop on eBay or egw and order a 1911 hammer strut. Possibly buy an oversized strut (it may say gun smith fitment required) and you’d just sand off what you don’t need or just leave it as is and run a light 17lbs mainspring

@americantrucker9813 stay down cocked. I tried ur way and it wasn't it. I figured it out. It was the leaf spring sitting a certain way

You’ll have that but you’ll get the hang of it and it’ll be like the back of your hand. I’m glad you got it squared away buddy.

@@HammerK99 lol that really did make me laugh. Atlas selling $6000 guns with fake DLC that would be hilarious but no it is not fake DLC and I have yet to see a 1911 slide made of stainless steel. You cannot Blue stainless steel by the way. All of the 1911 slides I have are made of carbon steel, which is easy to blue. I have a stainless steel P3 65 XL slide with DLC coating and it is very similar except it is harder to cover up any scratches. I’ll see if I can make another video. I get some.

@@americantrucker9813 I understand, I understand. I’m looking at DLC now because of how well they hold up on my ZT knives I just watched an Atlas Gunworks video and he’s using the terms DLC, PVD, and TiNi as synonyms , when they are not. He’s also blaming being sweaty and Florida weather for corrosion on their DLC. Confusing to me since DLC is extremely corrosion resistant and it is never referred to as being the same as a PVD. DLC has a HRC as high as 67 making “scratches” from your kydex holster very suspect. As to your comment that 1911 slides aren’t made in SS, that is hilarious. Congratulations on having a $6000 firearm. Not sure of the pertinence of such a comment.

@@HammerK99 OK expert. you’re just one of those know it all guys who is very narcissistic I own 16 1911s some of which are 2011s which is the same thing and none of them have a stainless steel slide but apparently you are the God of everything lol

@@HammerK99 the pertinence of the comment was as stated, very sarcastically, as if atlas gun works with an impeccable reputation in the competition shooting and custom gunmaking community are just somehow selling $6000 guns with fake DLC coating because some guy on the Internet says so

@@Johnwick2point0 thank you my friend! I appreciate that!

@@Johnwick2point0 I had a couple different optic plates on my 4.25 inch but the AOS RMR plate never came off but I use Red loctite on all the screws.

@@tfrank328 no, that won’t result from removing too much material. if you remove too much it can cause an issue feeding but you would have to remove a lot of material and there’s no need. You’re simply just removing enough to clear your disconnector, it is easier and smoother for your disco rail to press down on the disconnect than for it to catch it with the edge & overcome that friction and than press down. I’ve seen some that don’t have the Marvel cut and aren’t bad & I’ve seen many almost get stuck open on that disconnector. On the 1911, it would be just about impossible to fire out of battery. it isn’t until the slide is all the way forward that the disconnect can reset into the slide cut at the rear of the disco rail. Not to mention the hammer itself can’t fall until the slide is forward.

@@Gunut02 thank you !

@@fitvetwyatt I’m not sure the name but no it’s not flush it’s out of spec & Too Short on two separate sig p365 XL Slides and they custom support was pretty rude when I contacted them so I’ll never be buying anything from them again.

@@americantrucker9813 Damn, that's pretty unfortunate. I thought about getting a XL barrel for mine and then cutting the ports into the barrel to match the slide. Now that I see those brass grips i'm also thinking I need those and to Cerakote the gun to be a pearlescent green/gold

You can definitely do that plan but you’ll just have to be okay with modifying the Original slide. There is nothing significant about these slides. They are standard Sigg P365. “Comp”d” slides standard for multiple models like the X macro

@@americantrucker9813 Yeah, I looked at it and saw the area you are talking about. Shouldn't take much to get a standard size barrel to fit in there.

@@JaniceRodrigues-b4e thanks my friend & it’s H-237

@@briankenny6822 did what come with that the EGW keyed reverse plug ? I assume that is what you meant and no it did not.

@@mikef1949 thank you my friend! And that’s a good idea let me know how it turns out, and it’s the Cheely Stainless Steel Tactical Magwell

@@bryantieu3454 I used my dremel with a type of wire wheel. Not sure what it’s called but blending is tough because everything needs to be symmetrical so I found the wire wheels to do a nice job because they don’t creat big flat spots

@@BlxvkMamba absolutely I would recommend the easiest way would be to buy a slide and barrel & keep your original slide in barrel for either another build or just to have so you can restore the gun to factory one day because to do this with your factory slide. You will have to alter it and a way that it can never use the original barrel. I recommend slides from this company. I’ll post the link.norsso.com/slides/sig-p365-365xl/p365xl/

​​⁠okay sweet but you would have to port the slide and barrel again in the new after market ones right? Seems like it. Also what’s the issue with OEM slide. Why can’t a 3.7 inch barrel go inside? Feel like all you need to do is port the barrel and get a new recoil guide rod right?

@@BlxvkMamba the sig comp’d slide is just an XL slide with slide cuts and a 3.1 inch Non ported barrel. Because of their design a 3.7 inch barrel will not fit without modification into the comp’d slide. Porting is a separate upgrade similar to a comp but different and sigs comp’d slide is similar to a compensator but different. I noticed zero gain in any aspect from this 3.1 inch barrel & comp’d slide. I find the gun more accurate and flatter shooting with a 3.7 inch normal barrel & XL slide but it’s all personal preference. If you want a comp or porting you’ll have to run a a new slide & barrel for either.

@@americantrucker9813awesome thanks. What exactly is the issue with 3.7 barrel? Just so I know what to modify thanks

@@americantrucker9813honestly also doing all this puts me well over 2k might as well just get a 2011 LOL

Cheely stainless steel tactical magwell

@@deborah9229 the prodigy is the cheapest 2011 on the market as far as I know. And they build the guns but don’t tune them so sending it back and waiting 6 months is a waste of everyone’s time. This platform has been around for well over 100 years. It’s easy to tune for anyone with no gun smith training. I aspire to be a true renaissance man & Statesman so my entire life is DIY.

Thank you my friend! I appreciate that !

​@@americantrucker9813Didn't expect you to reply. Should totally do a video of a field strip. I would love to see the internals .

I can do that just stay tuned. It’ll probably be something I’ll do next weekend.

@@americantrucker9813 will do! Really excited to see that. That is a real beautiful piece of machinery. I thought my builds were nice but they wouldn't even make the list compared to yours.

@jayhuff8988 well I really appreciate that. Thank you very much and I’m sure that’s not true. It’s not about which is best but it’s about what is best for you. Make it how you like it regardless of what others think but I appreciate the kind words my friend!

emissarydevelopment.com/product/paddle-shifter-kit-for-surefire-x300/

It is called the paddle shifter, and if you have the X 300 it is a must, they are hard to find in stock so good luck, my friend

In one of my 2011 my guide rod is not flush- how do I fix it

@adambrown5601 you can either take a piece of metal tape and put it on the face of the guide rod that touches the frame of your gun (adding length to your guide rod if it’s too short but very close in spec) or it may be short because your Barrel link/Barrel/ slide stop aren’t tuned properly. You can buy a new slide stop (that’s gun smith fitting required) and fit to slide stop to the barrel/ barrel link or Buy a pack of atlas barrel links and start small and work up until you have a nice tight lock up and your guide rod is flush. The barrel link plays a part in the position of the slide to frame but the barrel itself also plays a part as does the Slide stop. I removed my barrel entirely and then reassembled and found my Barrel allows my slide to go too far forward so I use the barrel link & slide stop to lock into battery.

@@americantrucker9813 thank you I will try these options out

@@n55Rob .332 my friend!

@@slip718 it depends what the damage is are you talking about the DLC being scratched off? If so, I recommend Birchwood Casey super blue to cover any scratches (it will not work on stainless steel though I’m not sure what metal the sandviper is made of, it’s probably mild carbon steel if that is the case, it will work) if by damage you mean, discoloration like mine in this video then yes it will clean out the pores of the DLC and then you can oil it and wipe it off and it’ll be good as new. Hope that helps my friend.

The Sandviper is a unique bronze color. The scratch is on the slide and doesn’t reach the bare metal beneath. It’s more like a hard rub. Thank you for your response.

Also, I’m waiting to purchase a new Atlas Eos for my edc, what’re your thoughts?

@slip718 so according to their website, the bronze it is still a DLC coating & DLC is porous in nature and requires upkeep so yes cleaning with acetone and then use gun oil to lubricate the DLC and then wipe it off with a memory cloth. Atlas gun Works has a pretty cool video on how to take care of DLC coated guns that is essentially where I learned this stuff from so if any of my information is incorrect, I apologize that is where I got it from. And you’re welcome.

Atlas is awesome and everything they make is beautiful and flawless! However, they are human and do make mistakes, but they will surely take care of them. I only have one atlas firearm. It is the NYX V2 optics ready and I absolutely love it. It is amazing. It is an excellent EDC gun but if I could do it over, I think I would have ordered a Hyperion and got Atlas to do the Optics cut on it. The 4.6 inch is just as easy EDC in my opinion, considering my EDC choice of lately is a 5 inch Prodigy that I’ve overhauled.

@@paulcartmel1373 someone done that to your double stack? I don’t understand? so you’re saying somebody broke into your house and ruined your slide by doing a marvel cut incorrectly? Or you’re saying you gave your gun to somebody to do a marvel cut that didn’t know how to do a marvel cut? The marvel cut has been around for a long time and it doesn’t ruin anything, it improves reliability by removing friction and creating a more reliable feeding.

@@americantrucker9813 before I bought it, it was used and I did not notice it before buying

@@americantrucker9813 hahaha bro good reply :p

Your saying AOS didn’t actually manufacture these ?

@@americantrucker9813 nope

Lmao that’s crazy thanks tor the information and it makes perfect sense ! I’ve yet to hear back from Springfield armory customer support !!! They just ignored me

@@americantrucker9813 yeah Agency arms has a similar plate on other guns, but they produce those plates and cut the slides for them. I got my Glock cut by Agency arms and use the AOS system. Really good lock up and solid plate with no movement when it’s on the slide.

@@brianrussi4328 yes & I recommend delete the grip safety if you use an aluminum grip for your EDC. It’s a liability.

@@zarinkai2927 it definitely does and Not even staccato offer any model with an Aluminum grip so it puts it into a class with the most expensive 2011s in the country

​@americantrucker9813 hell, you said it yourself, You like shooting your 5 in prodigy over your Nyx . That says ALOT

I totally agree. It definitely does, for all of those prodigy haters they go on about nonsense. The prodigy is an excellent 2011 for the price point, with some cheap parts & tuning you can upgrade in on par with the best of them.

@@zarinkai2927 you got the stainless steel grip?? I want one of those, but I hope you realize how heavy it is. It isn’t practical for any type of carry. But it will be amazing on the range. Definitely update me and let me know how you like it.

I didn’t either at first but that’s what came with my Atlas and after Shooting both side by side it was obvious why they were designed that way. The high Ambi safety’s allow your thumb to get leverage with the bore and control muzzle flip better. Now I don’t like shooting without them.

@@americantrucker9813 maybe I should run them. I grip real high and have accidentally put my safety on while shooting.

@@triggermancustoms1670 I would but unfortunately I don’t have my FFL so I can’t unless it’s someone local to me.

@@americantrucker9813 I understand that brother I’m in NC you could do work to my slide with out an FFL right ?

@@gsj0810 No the L2 & E2 grips are the Exact same Except the E2 has the Grip safety deleted and a different grip angle more like a CZ Shadow 2 is the best way to describe it. All Atlas GunWorks firearms come with the E2 aluminum grip style so that should say something.

@@bassbrothersstories4006 my friend, the prodigy is an excellent firearm but unfortunately they aren’t all sent out the door Tuned properly but if your willing to run through it and make some fine tune adjustments any model will be a sound choice! I have a 4.25 & 5.00 and I love the 5inch the most ! It’s more fun to shoot than my Atlas Nyx V2. But yes that is the Cheely Aluminum L2 grip but I’ve modified it to be more like the E2 grip. I recommend the E2 grip, that’s the one I wish I had bought instead.

Honest outlaw just released a video on the 4.25 comp yesterday. Seems they worked out some of the kinks. I ordered the 4.25 comp a few days ago. Excited to get it in! Thanks for the vid trucker! Definitely considering an aftermarket safety from atlas or egw

@@B00MSTICK-0PERATOR it sounds like a couple of things could be the issue. Have you taken it apart? It sounds like your plunger is missing or underpowered. And the cheap Mim safeties aren’t the best but they should fit snug together the left and right. When you put them together, it should be difficult to pinch them together

@@aidensizemore8619 it is the trijicon RMR 1 moa LED adjustable & the SureFire X300 ultra

@@NEEZY69 yes you’ll need to polish it if you want a shiny polished finish. This will only change the color of the metal it will not change the finish itself if it is Matte or if it is polished. And what do you mean how did I hear it?

@@americantrucker9813 sorry it was a typo! I meant to ask, how did you heat the parts up to get the color. Also what was your process on stripping the finish and doing the semi polish?

@@jtrawson442 of course! Just sand that Lever on the back of grip safety down a couple inches and bang ! It’s deleted.

@@jtrawson442 thank you very much ! I really appreciate that my friend! And EGW internal kit is worth the money in my opinion, that is what comes factory in the Most expensive 2011s on the market for a reason but the MiM parts are just fine if your Not shooting 20,000 rounds a year. The problem with allot of the mim parts is the tolerances vary, so you can have good parts or bad or some good & bad. Your safety’s sound good, that’s what you want nice & snug with no play. You can also remove the Grip safety and Do function tests without that as one more thing to check. It’s possible it’s not clearing the trigger now and it’s pinching the top of it as you press it. If that’s the case than you can simply sand the leg of the grip safety and it will fix that issue. I recommend deleting the grip safety because for Self Defense I believe it’s a liability. More so with the aluminum grip I have. If you don’t get a perfect purchase on the grip it won’t disengage your grip safety and in a life & death situation you never know what grip you’ll get.

@@ro4960 thank you & it’s just bare metal. After sandblasting off the cerakote.

I like it 👍👍👍

@@jtrawson442what internals are you running ? Factory or Aftermarket? And what safeties including grip ? That description sounds like your safety’s aren’t Fitted properly. The only thing your grip safety can do is block the trigger bow from moving rearward, it can’t prevent it from moving forward. If I was holding your gun I’d figure it out in 60 seconds lol but it’s hard to imagine what you’re trying to describe and diagnose the issue. I have a disassembly video. if I were you, I would take the safeties off and check the function of the grip safety. ( I actually recommend deleting the grip safety but that is for you to decide) and make sure you cycle the slide & reset the trigger and if there’s no issue than you know it’s a Safety issue. I also recommend for left-handed shooters to buy a high-quality set of ambidextrous safeties because the factory safeties are metal injection molded so they are very poor quality and the safety is on the left-handed side for a right handed shooter and an Ambi set of safeties has a single pin that connects to that left side safety and for it to function properly from the right side of the gun it has to be a very tight fitment which you’ll find on higher quality Ambi sets. There could be Play in your safety’s. Mainly you just need to narrow down what part is causing the issue by checking the function of each individually