Відео

Hmmm. Zakładam że można by to było zrobić używając jakiegoś drucika owinietego watą, lub szmatką, ewentualnie jakąś gąbką. Na to pasta polerską.

Hi, unfortunately, these aren't sold as spares. You can use either Ultegra or Dura Ace body, as they are the same. But you have to find a donor 😢

What do you need to know? If I'm going to record another video covering 12 speed shifter I can expand on the topic. Do you mean internal PCB parts, or a general features and benefits?

@@Di2_GP just the wires and housing in general. Curious if you can dissasemble the electrical parts further or are they fixed as one. Im not interested in the PCB, more into how the electrolical parts are put into the shifter

@@kestutis.povilaitis Ah, ok. all electronic parts are factory sealed. You can't replace parts without voiding warranty. You could cut off a battery compartment and access PCB. But so you know Ultegra and Dura-Ace are exactly the same, whereas 105 have very different electronics. Cables from microswitches and EW-SD300 ports are held in place with resin. So in theory you can take it apart, but to seal it back and keep water away may be a challenge.

@@Di2_GP thanks this is what I was looking for! I may have missed this in the video, but if it was not on it, I think it should be added

Yes, I'm recording video tonight, it should be up by the weekend. However, if you body is cracked, that is beyond repair in my humble opinion.

Weight is the main difference, but you are also loosing hidden buttons, and ability to connect satellite shifters. But I don't think this would be a deal braker for many. You can use any 12 speed road and gravel components with 105 shifters too, in case you want to mix-and-match , or upgrade in the future.

If you are based in the UK, here is a link to SJS Cycles: www.sjscycles.co.uk/brake-levers/shimano-xtr-blm9120-diaphragm-unit-y1xk98030/ Alternatively look for Y1XK98030. This part is made for MTB brakes, but it should work. Did you check yours and know there is a hole in yours?

Yes, they are exactly the same. The only difference is the embossed model number. The only difference between R8070 and R9170 is a bar clamp and lever material (carbon on DA and Alloy on Ultegra)

@@Di2_GP Thanks for the quick reply, quite difficult nowadays to find spare parts!

@@edouardlavergne2029 Yes, often the only option is to buy broken shifters and piece them together :-)

You are too kind. I just have some spare time, and I'm nosy ;-)

I have M7x0.75 tap, and it doesn't fit to brand new shifter. I'm not sure if I have 'faulty tap' or Shimano is using a different standard. However, using M7x1.0 worked for me. It's not perfect, but the insert has such thin walls that they mould to the bleed cap threads during the first installation.

Have a look at my ST GRX-RX815 shifter video. I'm taking apart R7020 shifter. There is a small return spring inside the master cylinder. But it's unlikely it would have snapped. However, there is small return spring that is attached to the 'push rod plate' it is held in place by a small pin. It could just drop off, from that pin, hence lack of return force.

I have mentioned rounded off bleed cap removal in my video about shifter problems. You can check or, I'll link it later. But option number 1 would be to try tapping in a T8 torx. If that doesn't help. I'd carefully make an incision with a dremel, this will heat up slightly the alloy bleed cap, so it should make it easier to remove. But don't cut too much at one go as you can melt plastic body.

ua-cam.com/video/OStXGL5AUg4/v-deo.html from 0:27. Also consider buying 105 R7020 bled screws , as they are made of steel. Plenty available online - Y0F398030

@@Di2_GP thank you, just did

You can swap the part I'm pointing at ( P - body). The P - body (cage holder) is the same across R8000, R8050, R9100, R9150. I have swapped it before and I know it works. Both the outer and inner links are different. But in the video I'm pointing at the part where cage is attached.

@@Di2_GP Kk i will check tomorrow. Thanks

I use fine tip, that is sanded flat-ish. You want to melt both mating surfaces, but you don't want to melt too much. I'd advise to try on some plastic bits. If you're doing it for yourself, it doesn't have to be pretty. The more you do the better it looks. Is like welding :-)

@@Di2_GP yeah sure, yes mating the two surfaces. Luckily I’m pretty handy so I do feel pretty confident doing this. I’ve fixed some cracked dashboards and plastic paneling before using soldering iron with some metal inserts for strength.

I would remove the link between the servo and parallelogram. They you can test if derailleur arm is moving freely like I test in 16:40, if there is any resistance I'd suspect corroded pin. You can drill a pilot hole, tap the pin out, clean it and reassemble it. However if derailleur operate smoothly it may be burnt brushes on the motor, or faulty chip on the PCB. Ultegra RX has the same servo as Ultegra R8050 GS, or RX815

@@Di2_GP thanks so much for all the replies. I’ll give this a go. Probably worst case scenario, I’ll end up with one working RX deraileur, but hopefully both :)

I'm glad you're enjoying the content. I promise a battery video will be ready soon, although there won't be many happy endings in that video ;-(

@@Di2_GP hahaha

@@Di2_GP sure, no rush. I have about 50% success rate with the batteries, but they are all batteries someone else tried to fix, but for some reason I think they manage to fry the motherboard while trying to fix them, as there is still power in the cells all the way up-to the motherboard. Of course if I figure it out before, I’ll be very happy to share the knowledge with you.

@@hmudesign The main issue I found is the water ingress and corroded SMDs under that white resin. I haven't come across a battery with dead cells, usually it's down to PCB. If caught early you can clean it, but so far I only managed to save 2 our of 7 batteries.

@@Di2_GPwah… so few happy endings, I’ll keep you posted if I come across something. There is this other gentleman here in Singapore who does fix batteries for di2, which I yet have to pick his brain on this. I’ll keep you posted :)

Which bracket are you referring to? The alloy brake lever, or Di2 shift button? Unfortunately neither can be purchased as a spare. Your only option is to find a broken 2nd hand one. Shift paddles (Di2 buttons are the same between rim R8050 and Disc R8070 shifters.

Yes, check out my latest video. I'm demonstring how to fix it, and also, there is a quick fix. Mam nadzieję że się naprawa uda 😉

Thank you so much :) I appreciate the content!

Yep, here's the link the video: ua-cam.com/video/ubARRe7jO_E/v-deo.html

That video is for the bleed port repair. My shifter has damaged thread on the port where the hydraulic hose is inserted.

@@hallra1970 Ah, I haven't tried to repair it as I'm not confident I can do good enough repair and ensure the system will remain safe under pressure. Bleed port, repair is 'safe' as it is isolated from the pressurised system when braking. Brake hose port on the other hand is under pressure. You can try but I wouldn't risk it. Sorry I couldn't help. It may be worth looking for another shifter with stripped bleed port thread, broken lever or dead electronics.

@@Di2_GP I understand your concerns and certainly it is not for the general public, I have an engineering professional friend who will be helping me with this. It is also my rear brake lever not my front brake. I am right that the thread is M9 X 1.25?

@@hallra1970 If this is only for you, and you will test it on the rear brake, I would try Helicoil. The reason I didn't use it on bleed port was lack of space. I need to measure thread on brake hose flange bolt. Will confirm tomorrow. Good luck, and let me know how you got on.

Thanks 😊

Thanks again!

Thank you

I don't want to end up in court, so I won't mention any specific names. In general, I'm referring to mainstream bike specific cleaning products. As an example, bike cleaner label states “<5% EDTA and Salts Thereof” this is stating that there are corrosive salts in the product.. I'm not claiming that after one use, your derailleur will die, but over time, salts will degrade rubber o-rings and will cause corrosion of untreated aluminium (inside pivots) If you decide to use them, make sure you rinse your bike with plenty of fresh water. Definitely not spray and wipe job.

I'll make one, but the success rate is very low. It all depends on how quickly you can catch it. If it's water ingress/damage, you have hope. If it's dead, chip on early BTN batteries, I don't have a solution

@@Di2_GP I have generally had one of two the batteries fail

@philipmurray2132 which model? Did it die instantly or degraded over time?

@@Di2_GP the BT-DN110 X 2 degraded over time(needed more regular charging

Thank you, I think having an extra layer of safety thru external threads is alway better. Also I take shifter and bladder apart anyway, just to be sure I can clean any debris, or glue. Batteries are coming soon, I know I have been saying that for a while ;-) But if has finally stopped raining in the UK, so I get a chance to ride my bike, and that takes priority :-)

@@Di2_GP lovely, riding takes priority of course. Enjoy and tide safe my friend.

Yes, I've seen quite a few of those. But I'm not confident that this can be repaired. At least I haven't found a way I'd be confident with.

@@Di2_GP yeah, i don't think so either, i was so afraid of this issue i went out of my way to find a 8mm crowfoot wrench to go with my torque wrench to be extra sure i don't overtighten it.

@bikingchupei2447 These days, a torque wrench is a must-have. Bike parts are too expensive 😭 😫 😑

Thank you

Great, hopefully the repair will go smoothly

Maybe one day... I tired many options before I have settled on this method. I tried thread inserts, Helcoil, etc, but they all seem to be either to big, or don't come in size M7. Well if there is enough interest, maybe someone can make these on large scale and at affordable price.

Thanks a lot!

Thank you!

Here is a link to 68070 GS disassembly, but the same process applies to 6870 SS and 9070 ua-cam.com/video/PiSsMR73EAo/v-deo.html . I don't have a specific video on 6870 FD. What is the problem with your 6870 FD.

Thank you. I'm glad you found this helpful. When assembling hydraulics, is use a little bit of red rubber grease (amzn.to/3UNNkyX) so you can try this. However if your shifter is just a a little 'sticky' I would start by loosening your bar clamp. Over-torqued bar clamp is the main cause of sticky shifter. If the body isn't bent yet, loosening bar clamp bolt should solve the issue. Let me know if it worked ;-)

@@Di2_GP Loosening the clamp was the first thing I tried, but no good.

It is coming back to original position, but there's no snap-back like on the other shifter and another bike I have. So, before taking it all apart I'll try to give it a nice clean.

@@papimpimer9082 Yep, cleaning is always a good start. I'm working on a video, where I'm repairing sticky shifter. This involves some sanding and polishing, etc. It should be up within the next two weeks.

@@Di2_GP So, cleaning did not help much, but polishing the piston and cylinder opening was a game changer :). Thanks again. Obviously i have managed to loose the little c-clip You said not to loose :D. Had to fabricate a little snap ring from an old spring.

I'm glad you're enjoying the content

Noted, will try to replicate the issue and include it in the video.

Thank you

Unfortunately, you can't buy a replacement body, but... Stripped threads repair video is coming this week. Keep your eyes peeled :-)

;-)

You have to replace the entire assembly. If the microswitch itself is faulty, you could cut cable and splice it up (you could use microswitch from R8050, R9150, RX-815, or all 12s. But the easiest option is to find a broken 12s 105 and replace the entire electrical wire loom.

When you say faulty, can you elaborate? Does it work intermittently or not at all. Is it one button or both? It can be just fault, crushed, or misaligned spring.

It is brand new. One button only works sometimes. It doesn't matter what function it is set for, front derailleur up or down or rear derailleur up or down. It behaves the same. When you try to shift, the derailleur makes a slight twitch but doesn't shift. The button does work in the app but it will not shift the derailleur. It seems more like a software glitch to be honest but I can't be sure.

You're welcome!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks 😊

Thank you

Thanks again!

Well, if people would stay on top of their bike maintenance (I know it's difficult), then Di2 should last very long time. But as they know, people will neglect their bikes, and these components will fail. They have a constant source of customers ;-)

Thank you

Hope the repair goes nice and smooth.

@@Di2_GP Thanks to your tutorial I smoothly opened the servo. But i found the main gear (largest cog) trashed, many teeth grinded :(

@opensky123 That's actually good 😉 you can tap out the actuator arm, then rotate it by 180 degrees. This will move worn-out teeth to the back. That gear only moves 90-120 degrees

Hi, apart from the cage length, all 3 dérailleurs have the same servos, gearboxes, and palarellgrams. In theory, you could get some OSPW to compensate for the extra chain length. But I'm not sure if that won't impact derailleur longevity. If you're looking for extra range, can you get a smaller inner chainring? If you ride 36t, you may go down to 34t. Finally, if you wait a bit, I'm sure 12 speed GRX will come out at some point this year. That will go up to 36t/40t, I guess.

@@Di2_GP Hum..how could OSPW impact the derailleur longevity? Well the dilemma i have is that 50-11 is not enough for me, the most used gear for me is 50-11, 50-12, 50-13, 50-14. I want to go with 54/40 possibly using 1x if math works right. We just need a 10t cog on the rear but i guess it is not possible for shimano, so we need to be creative even if it means using a 3rd party chainring. What do you think, i would really like to go 1x on the front then with 36t on the rear. But your point on 12 speed GRX makes sense, that would help massively going 1x. PS for 1x, 50-36 is totally enough for my situation. If 12 speed GRX is compatible with 9270 i guess 54 1x with 40t on the rear is pretty good for me as well. Kept the drivetrain efficiency while maintaining enough range of gears.

@willyturing1803 Hi, the longevity may be affected by the extra stress on parallelogram and the inner link when you shift beyond 34t. This is because you're increasing forces acting on the components by moving them further away from the fulcrum point. If I remember correctly, Sram cassette won't work, but you could try an aftermarket option with 10t from Aliexpress or similar

@@Di2_GP Sorry what are the parallelogram and the inner link you are referring exactly?

@willyturing1803 parallelogram is the bit with Ultegra/Dura-ace logo. And the inner link is behind it. If they're pushed beyond designated use, they may crack.