Відео

" I have to leave in a few minutes." Still starts to take it apart. 😂 I do the same thing and I feel better now.

I think that would be a bad seal in the cylinder

What was the humidity at originally?

Have you tryed z offset?

Tottaly off topic, but did you replace your engine mounts or these original? Mine looks different

Bro, just get yourself an A1! Bambu labs is really done a good job. I’ve modded ender 3, 5’s I had my fun but now I’m having a lot more fun just printing what I want when I want without having to tinker as much.

Use a hot air gun to get rid of the strings and everything else on your finished parts. 73

Doing the same 4 stack on my K1 Max and it's going to take 24hrs, and I thought that was too long lol. Still using my Creality CR10 as the "parts" printer, and it's doing 15hr prints at about the same speed as the Ender 3 Pro. The biggest thing about both these printers is the removeable spring steel built plate - it's a game changer for removing prints from the bed, even really small ones come off so easy.

Does this affect the linearity/response curve of the stick?

If I was in your place. I would go ahead and bite the bullet and buy the $299 5M FlashForge 3D printer and be done with it. Way way faster print speeds and well worth the money. Buy once cry once. You only need to buy it once, and then you have something good to use from now on.

I ran 207 nozzle and 60 bed at 50 print speed and had great results. You can use a pocket torch after to take care of the stringing

Great to see this video! Congratulations on the new printer. Do you use Orca Slicer?

Have you tryed the 4 stack yet?

Im getting a ender 3 v2 today and sole purpose was to make this. Did you come up with better settings?

Your engine is equipped with hydraulic lifters. There is no valve lash adjustment.

this is a four stroke engine , why do you adjust both intake and exhaust valves on the same stroke?

Great video. My 445 idles too high and sometimes after mowing sticks at full throttle. Any suggestions? Thanks

The draft lift arms are probably not clocked in the right position. Very little movement up & down. Should be nearly 4" of travel. To adjust the deck height. It must be in the raised position. Turn the adjuster dial to raise or lower. Then lower the deck to see the actual cutting height.

2 days to print that is insane, I think my mostly stock sidewinder X2 could do that in 8 hours or so, I suggest you speed up the print head, get a 0.6mm nozzle which will let you set the layer height to 0.5mm which is awesome for churning out stuff like this

Beer, pretzels and 3D printing. I like your style!

This is so underrated

I think step one should be buy a bambu machine

Gloves.

Get yourself a printer with a removable spring steel build plate. You’ll wonder why you didn’t do it sooner, I promise you.

Awesome! I am currently waiting on my first 3D printer to be delivered this weekend😊! I for sure could use these grids to organize some stuff!

What is multiboard = the 3D printed organization system based off of others that have already existed that tries to take advantage of packages that make it easier to understand the system to make money, that sums it up in the nutshell, ohh and uses the license two stranglehold makers on what they can and cannot recreate lol..........................

Damn, do you usually have the printer printing right next to you as you work on the computer?? Or did you move it there just for the video?

Hey, I'm trying to print the multiboard, but the first layer won't stick since it try to print first the the inside of the diamons, could you help me with your print configuration. I have the Ender 3 S1

My .2MM layer height 40% infill profile can print this in under 22 hours on a bone stock Ender 3 pro. I highly encourage you to look into tuning your slicer profile by hand as the default settings are FAR too conservative. Though my profile prints over twice as fast, the prints are able to retain the majority of the strength compared to default.

I've printed a few "scrapers" in PLA to remove prints and I find that they do a decent job without scratching the print bed. Yeah they aren't as durable, but its a quick print and you can just print a new one when needed. Its been over a month since I printed my first 2 and I haven't had to print more. Something to keep in mind. Ive looked into printing this system, thanks for the share.

Get a A1 much better experience

I just print one at a time and all of them have nice PEI surface. Cool subsystem. I personally do love only the very first Ender 3. All other modifications have their downsides. Why Creality would not polish the very first model and call it Ender 3 DIY is a mystery for me. Prusa have printer KIT and as far as I know it have its popularity. And I already posted under the other video. The very first Ender 3 is very easy to maintain and upgrade, it really need some tuning, but after that it just prints. I am going to install POM Z nut so I will not need to grease it anymore. Needless to say in a two years I never greased it though = ) And it can print really fast, may be not so fast as a Bambu models, but 'cmon, its $100 printer which was created like 7 years ago or so. And Bambu printers are top notch and have quite a cost.

What? Twelve hours? Are you kidding? I have Ender 3, the very first one, which comes with bowden. I just installed BeMeGe (a printable BMG clone) and a simple direct extruder mod. Which is actually a very short bowden. It is 10cm length from gears to nozzle tip. Which is quite large for DD. Changed firmware. And 8x8 tile is printed under 4 hours(3:30 or something like that) and Bambu 'superduper' printer prints it in 2:30 as they say on multiboard site. Stock belts and motors have no trouble with 3000 mm/s2 accelerations and 150 mm/s speeds. I flatten the bed with hands, and what left I fill with sticky aluminum foil and checked with a metal ruler and a flashlight. So I do not use any probe to check bed level. I use bed tramming feature which recent Marlin firmware have, and a thin piece of paper, but I do this once in a couple of months, I usually do not change anything. And I use magnetic PEI, which is really convenient. And your bed is very slow in heating. I think this is because of that glass plate, and I bet you did not stick insulation from the bottom. My Ender 3 is ready to print in 2 minutes up to 255/70 which I use for PETG. (actually copied settings from Bambu slicer) I understand now, why people buy Bambu printers. What you showed int the video is a real pain. = ) And why do you print them in stack? I would understand if your printer would print one tile in 30 minutes. But for me, even one tile every 3-4 hour is not a big deal, and if I set it for a night it is only one tile yes, but not a big trouble. Also I would recommend add auto turn off mod too. It was actually the very first one which I installed. The printer can turn it self off by pressing a switch with printbed after the print. You are a really patient if you use this printer just like in the old days = )

Cool concept. Keep up thr work👌

Didnt realize how old this was till he said he got parts at radioshack... a barely remember those days lol

Had the same problem but instead of taking apart the freezer I just disconnected the plug then opened the back plate in the back then cleared the tube it was all I needed to do it got done was way easier Thanks though for your video

Define leaky. What’s leaking? Air? Oil? Gas?

Adjust? You don't. Need head rebuild. Pull the head and re-seat the valve seats if needed with a peen-in, then re-lap the valves/grind the stems to fit again.

Looking at this rocker set up I noticed that there is a space between the rocker and the where the stud goes into the head , this might be like the old Chevy small blocks where the adjustment is in the rocker it self by tightening down the rocker stud nut till you have zero lash on the the push rod ,PS also known as a floating rocker design . Just google adjusting Chevy small block valves for reference .

Excellent video, thank you!

Nice. I have the 95 220 Horizon. What I did: Washed the boat, used a boat eraser to remove as much debris as possible, then hit the whole thing with Meguiars Compound on a rotary. After that, I went to Meguiars Polishing with a foam fine foam pad. Will be putting on ceramic coat for the final step. FYI: try using polishing compound on the rotary around 1500-2000 rpms rather than using that pad!

Thanks for the video. I’m in the same boat. Mine tested 120. Blowing lots of oil in the air filter.

I think the white dots are imperfections in the gel coat, doesn’t mean you’ve burned through it. But I think more sanding/buffing will only make them more visible. Nice work, looks a lot better!

Lovew the sound of a stock flat twin purring along 👌

I have same problem with my 2024

Rings are probably shot

Thank you so much for sharing your custom hitch setup for your John Deere 445! We're amazed by the level of thought and work you've invested in creating it. While we do have a specific hitch option available for that John Deere model, we will absolutely be here to assist you in any way we can in the future. - The Cyclone Rake Team

your foot was on the brake at 1st thats why the pto did not start . you could see the diff peddle down .. lol

Hey Doug take off the steering cover off the center of the wheel of the steering wheel take that off and tieten the nut on the wheel and no more loosey goosey have a good day

That's fantastic my friend!!! 😃