- 15
- 13 638
Seth Martin
Приєднався 28 гру 2012
Ford F150 3.5 Ecoboost engine preoiler
2018 Ford F150 3.5 Ecoboost with the infamous cam phaser rattle at startup. I decided to build an electric pre-order so I didn't have to crank the engine over to build oil pressure by holding the gas pedal down. This is my take on a pre oiler modify to your liking. All parts were found on Amazon for around 150$ in total.
Переглядів: 501
I just got my whole set up, but I’m not building oil pressure. What side of the glow shift did you use in or out?
@@brianbolic7832 it's probably air locked mine was as well after I installed it. You have to bleed the air out of the pump bye removing the pressure line coming out of the pump and then cycle the pump a couple of times to prim it. Then it will be good.
@@sethmartin1317 thank you so much. I appreciate your help. Is there anyway that you can send me the Amazon link to the sandwich plate you used I think I may have gotten the wrong one. Thank you for your time. I tried finding the one that you showing in your video, but it doesn’t come up in Amazon.
@@brianbolic7832 GlowShift Oil Filter Sandwich Plate Thread Adapter - 22mm x 1.5 Thread - Install up to (4) 1/8-27 NPT Oil Pressure & Temperature Sensors - includes O-Ring & Port Plugs a.co/d/9r3YLTI
Great idea Seth, have the same problem in a Jaguar xkr. Any links for the materials? looking to try this instead of accusump. cheers
This is a great DIY video. THANK YOU
This is awesome!! I try to use the flood mode on cold start starts,currently at 117,500kms on my 3.5 and no cold start rattle at all.I did the software update at 53,000kms
@@jasonbrushett2005 thanks, yeah I used the flood start before as well.
This is really a genius idea. I am definitely going to have to do it. Will it work on a 2019 3.5 eco-boost??? I called ford just to do phasers they wanted $6000 not sure if I would use the plastic tubing. I may use metal braided, but your idea is so simple thank you so much.
You should use brass compression fittings. Don't trust quick connects!😊
Thanks man I was thinking the same thing. Just never pull the trigger.
Awesome video
I've only read about this being done. First video I've seen someone demonstrate this tactic. 👍 The only other thing I could think of to do would be to get your black RTV, lay an 1/8" tall bead on the bowl surface. Let that tack up. Then fasten the two surfaces together but only halfway. Let it set overnight. Then finish fastening to proper torque. That would give a fat gasket that didn't spew out everywhere. This is all hypothetical, and not tested... yet.
Before you sanded them was the warp causing misfire, sneezing at low idle?
No it was just leaking fuel out of the bowls because they were so warped.
thought about doing this on my 91 90V4 but that pickup tube wouldn't budge and started to flex so I opted to leave it after a little file work and new gaskets. Great video and live the Ros disc stuck to bench!
You figure out the problem?
Yes I found foreign matter was floating around in the VST. I believe it was from a cheap aftermarket fuel filter that had started to disintegrate.this allowed it to stop up the fuel seat and block fuel from entering the vapor separator tank.
I have a 2016 on an Allison xb21. I’m pretty certain I’m leaking some hp’s. Mine does not have the same throaty rev as do most engines I hear
Must be a very old motor, right?
2011
@@sethmartin1317 Ah, got worried as I have a Pro XS 200 from year 2020.
Used this idea on my 90hp Johnson with plastic float bowls. Worked great! Used grated drywall sheet sandpaper, took the plastic down in no time. Never thought of this till watching your video. Thanks
Great solution to an expensive problem.......fyi, you can buy cast aluminum bowls for around 35 bucks each (few years ago) which will eliminate the disappearing ridge issue.....Sanding the bodies is the winner, though.
Why not use blue TRV? This situation is exactly what that stuff is for...
Great video I have spent years screwing with my 1993 150 replaced the bowels but did not know the body warped. What a eye opener. I heard that sanding the bowels might help Many Thanks for the steps to get it done
This is a great video Seth. My 2005 Johnson 150 is leaking from the bowls and you just gave me a great idea to work on my bowls. Hopefully this helps with my idling and take off after engine warms up. Thanks so much
Do you have any recommendations after doing that? Is that a good method or do you now know of a better method? I have a 225 HO that I need to do the same one.
After doing this I ran the engine for 4 years and never had a problem. Sand then install new gaskets.
Did you do the body and bowls? All 6?
Olá se você poder visitar meu canal e se gostar se inscreva eu vou me inscrever no seu canal!!!
It will not hurt or change anything. You're only sanding off couple of thousands. I ran my engine for 4 years after doing this then bought another engine. Dont be afraid.
after sanding down the bowl,will it affect the two brass tubes as in how far down they reach in the bowl? trying to do my91 150 evinrude and that crossed my mind that maybe they would hit bottom of bowl and not pick up fuel
Wow, thanks for this. Trying to keep my old motor from nickel and diming me to death. This will help for sure.
Like he said, they no longer sell them so he had to finger another way to repair them. It's incredible how a part that is common to malfunction can be discontinued. I've looked everywhere and haven't found anything
Thanks Seth! Just ordered the rebuild kit for my 97 Johnson Fast Strike. Noticed one of the bowls was cracked and they looked warped. This video will definitely help. Thanks for taking the time to post this.
DAMMMMMMMNNNNNNN no she didn't