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Honda GCV 160cc OHC engine

@@MushroomMagicGrowing Good luck with your project!

@@sergiodevitis5262 Grazie. Con i piani, lo schema elettrico e le risposte alle domande nei commenti di tutti i miei video sui tosaerba, ci sono abbastanza informazioni per costruirne uno da soli. Buona fortuna con il tuo progetto. (Traduzione di Google)

@@Nova-m8d Thanks, they are the best thing for fabricating.

@@bigdaddy2126 Hi Big Daddy, I have not experienced your problem with the 2x60. The only thing I can think of is making sure the receiver is powered up before applying power to the Sabertooth and check the dip switch settings. In my configuration you cannot use the 5v supplied by the sabertooth because the receiver needs to be powered on in order to switch the sabertooth on and off by the relay circuit.

@@tedbastwock3810 Hi Ted, The Sabertooth has no power until activated by the Flysky RC control. The receiver needs the 5V to operate. Please read the comments for all my videos on the mower, there are over a one hundred answered questions related to the build. If you don’t find an answer to a question, leave me a comment, and will I gladly provide an answer. Good luck on with your build!

@@ahmtsgr No, I start it using the pull cord.

@@tedbastwock3810 Thank you!

@@JohnDoe-id9hi Thanks!

@@bigdaddy2126 Hi bigdaddy, thanks has for the compliment. I’m in my third mower season, no problems yet, still going strong as the first time I used it. I plan to upgrade to dual 2x60, giving each motor its own channel. Watch my video “End of mowing season review” on why I would upgrade to two controllers. There is a link in the comments to my google drive that has the dual sabertooth wiring diagram. Only thing I would change would be a remote control mower deck height adjustment. Mine is manually adjusted and is a pain to change heights due to the very heavy battery assembly being attached mower deck.There is a lot of additional information in all of the mower video’s comments.

@@giterbilt5146thanks for replying. Have you had any issues with the motors creeping slowly (something to do with remote receiver calibration) if you turn on the controller before turning on the remote ? I read you have to always turn on the remote controller on first ? Is this correct.

@@giterbilt5146the other question I have is what do you do for brakes ? I assume this is atleast 200lbs - how do u make sure it doesn’t roll off?

@@bigdaddy2126 The transmitter and receiver must be communicating before power is applied to the motor controller. The controller box and the transmitter can be turned on in either order. Power to the motor controller is handled by the on/off activation of the motor controller relay by a receiver channel switch. The switch has to be in the off mode in order for the transmitter and receiver to pair up. The motor controller handles braking via regenerative power of the motors. I have not encountered any incline where the motor controller cannot handle the braking. With the power off it could roll down an incline. It would be very slow as the motors are acting as generators when rolling without power. If you buy wheel chair motors that have brakes, you can use a receiver switch channel and RC switch to disengage the brakes. Brake are allow set when no power is supplied to them.

@@giterbilt5146thanks! Last question (for now) - where do u but ur main contactor/solenoid from ? Lot of the ones out there are fake and not fully rated despite being labelled as fully rated.

Hi Karl, the information you seek is in a response to jmoore3613 in the comments.

@@arijunal Thank you 😊

@@ben212-i5w I would be happy to answer any questions you might have here in the comments.

@@giterbilt5146 thanks, How did you wire the motors and the linear actuator to the motor controllers?

@@ben212-i5w Hi Beniplatt, there is a link in the description to a wiring diagram for a single motor controller to the motors. The actuator are just electric motors, and are controlled by a separate controller which is not shown on the diagram. Read the comments for all my mower videos, they contain a wealth of information about the mower construction and wiring. Good luck with your project.

Thanks, do I connect both motor controllers to the Receiver?

Would be great for a wiring diagram of everything.. Alternator and everything

Hi, I took a look at the ASI Chaos with tracks, hell of a design. I can only offer the most basic information, at the most you would need a maximum of eight independent motor control channels. Size of the controllers would be based on 6 times the current load of the motor. The rest of the design would have to be a complex set of motor positioning feedback loops, and sensors with the entire machine being managed by computer control with custom written software. Good luck with your project.

@@rcytb Thanks for the compliment.

@@paulburroughs1313 Hi Paul, the small motor controller is for the front toolbar actuator. On the sabertooth controller two motors on one side are run off of one channel.

I have not had that problem. I pretty much mow sideways on the slope, carb side down hill. This puts the carb lower than the tank. One other thing you need to be aware of is oil starvation. Small engines have an oil slinger for lubrication. The slinger is usually on the carb side of the engine, and must be on the downhill side. I learned this the hard way, burned up two engines in a row on my riding mower. If you give me the make and model of your mower I will look up the location of the oil slinger for you.

Hi Cayrick, thanks for the compliment. The deck height does adjust, it uses the stock hardware that came with the mower. Only down side is the batteries are mounted to mower deck so raising and lowering is chore, it is heavy. I was using it today and wish I had included an actuator to raise and lower the deck. $3k is not a bad price, I am probably around the same outlay.

Thank you

Thanks for the comment. I wish I had time to take on a project such as this, thanks for asking.

Hi Danny, it should be turning like a skid steer now. Full left or right on the joy stick should have the set of wheels on each side rotating in the opposite direction. Each set of side wheels should be turning at the same rpm. If you want it to steer like a tank, which would give you the ability to drag one set of side wheels during a turn, or control the speed of one side, you will have to set up transmitter to use two joysticks. One joystick will control one channel. Each sabertooth will be wired so that the signal for one channel controls one set of side motors. See the wiring diagram V2. This is how a commenter set up their dual sabertooths for use in tank mode. You will have to search UA-cam for an example for setting up the transmitter for two joy sticks in tank mode. V2 will work with either steering mode, and is probably the best choice. Try the V2 receiver to sabertooth wiring before changing the transmitter for dual stick control to see if it helps. FYI both transmitter configurations will tear up the grass if you do a sharp turn. I have a commentary in this video on how I mow without damaging the turf. I never do sharp turns. If I have to move the to the left or right, I do long sweeping turns. Watch the video on Taming the Beast for how I have my transmitter setup for two speeds, one for mowing speed and one for hauling ass. The Mowing speed setting is only 10% power and gives good control of the joystick which will eliminate fast sharp turns and yard damage.

Hi Danny, have you had one wheel off of the ground and the other wheel that is on the same side touching the ground is not turning?

@@giterbilt5146 yes sir i have finally got the mower operating as it should it climbs my hillside with ease and operates with no problems i thank you for all your help

Thank you

Glad to help

Which schematic diagram are you using?

Did you try swapping the receiver channels around?

I have not tried that but i will thanks

Check the power in + and - voltage. It should be the voltage of your batteries, somewhere above 24v dc volts. If it is then power out should be close to the same voltage. You have tried multiple Electhawks, so the problem must be in the way the power in and power out are wired. Didn’t you have the same problem with the 2x32?

Update i ordered another elechawk switch and placed it in the mower now everything works i guess 1 good one out of 3 is good lol thanks for your help again

@@DannyThompson-gl7knI’m glad to hear you have it working!

Next step, disconnect all wiring from the contactor. Connect the 8A Electhawk power in red to +24v and black -24v from the battery. Connect the power out + and - to on a voltmeter set to DC voltage. Connect Electhawk RC cable to channel 6 on receiver. Test channel 6, switched on the voltmeter should indicate the voltage of your battery voltage. If you get the voltage reading of your battery, connect power out + and - to small contactor terminals. Test channel 6 on will click. When you have achieved this let me know. I now have two dual wiring diagrams, V2 where one saber tooth controls the left side motors and one controls right. The V2.1 diagram the S1 on each controller controls the left motors and s2 controls the right. Someone pointed out the confusion on where motors were located , so I specified the location. The diagram with the one controller each side using same channel, is the less confusing diagram. Choice is yours, let me know which one you want to use as we go forward.

Power in is 25.4v and i have never had a 2x32 controller but i have tried two elechawk switches

Previously i had just one 2x60 controller and everything worked fine until i added the second controller im not sure why

Hi Danny, the problem has to be in the transmitter/receiver. You said you had a successful bind, if the LED on the receiver is red, then check the switch configuration for the channel you are using for the electhawk. Here is a link to a guy that shows you how to do this better than I can ua-cam.com/video/JZQoHmLqZYg/v-deo.htmlsi=YlTNOWARPASlUGLm. If it still does not work try moving the elechawk to a different channel. I know how aggravating trouble shooting can be, if this does not work let me know, and I will see what else can be done.

Hi Danny, I redrew the dual sabertooth wiring diagram a couple of week’s ago. Down load and use this version for troubleshooting, it is easier to read (also had a diode wiring mistake for regenerative power and motor ground wires going to wrong locations). The electhawk will not blink if it is communicating with the RC receiver channel used as a switch when the transmitter recognizes the receiver. To troubleshoot shoot this I would remove the RC cables to the sabertooth controller and leave only the power from the BEC and the electhawk connection to the receiver channel you are using to switch it on and off. Reverify transmitter setting for Channel that you are using for the elect hawk, also verify that the electhawk is plugged in the right receiver channel, I made that mistake before. These are the only ideas, I can think of. There should be no difference between the receiver/ transmitter connections and transmitter channel setups you used with the single 2x60.

Is the new diagram found in the end of year post or is it somewhere else?

Also i disconnted both controllers and it made no difference the elechawk still blinks

@@DannyThompson-gl7kn here is a link to the latest wiring diagram drive.google.com/file/d/1ZchiR1uzUjb4cYra8jw7USUaQEfVVcMz/view?usp=share_link

First of all thank you for helping i have watched the video of the transmitter setup several times and i am checked my setup i tried to connect it to channel 5 switch A and it still made no difference as i said i purchased a new transmitter ; new receiver;new solenoid;new elechawk; all new wires and configered like the new diagram with the exception of an alternator which i am not using

Hi Danny, yes signal for both S1 and S2 is white, Black goes to 0V on each controller. Red is not used if you are using a BEC to supply the 5V to the RC receiver. The magenta and blue color in the diagram is white, I could not use white to show this because the sheet is white. If you not already using splitter cables, here is a link to the cables I plan on using eventually. www.amazon.com/Connector-Splitters-Extension-Compatible-Airplanes/dp/B09PRBC4F4/ref=sr_1_1?crid=KYLVDXE5ONRI&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Zj28zi_72jjDGOCW_xQVdbmiFk1qM7LQNUjqeafGOg5QQ-vIiT798SVi_rOktiKdztCxfM6rL7o47glNyHtpTtXyLi5QjdPitfuicMJ20yyoJB3_IwTrZrOrDkfex3Mb3SZioySnBBUzzNprIsqOlMLI5JSzWdYJMb_I0KxPcrsY9KesoGTtphCssGIxk1X9kTaaaQl1stpajmalAcesqMvnjC_vhx3mnqVGu1RcaM4.ogm4xoHxm1sptNpVqEtnOrD1d6cLYQJQAUY8_5JftmQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=red%2Bblack%2Band%2Bwhite%2Brc%2Breceiver%2Bsplitter%2Bcable&qid=1715215737&sprefix=red%2Bblack%2Band%2Bwhite%2Brc%2Breceiver%2Bsplitter%2Bcable%2Caps%2C218&sr=8-1&th=1. Wish I had the time to upgrade mine, I’m jealous. Let me know how it turns out.

I will sir i have made all the changes so far but when i turn it on i see the elechawk flashing blue and i have nothing which makes me think i may have loosened one of the wires to that switch

One other thing should the dip switches on both controllers be the same as with just one?

@@DannyThompson-gl7kn they should be

I have checked all the wiring connections and they are good. When i turn on the key the elechawk starts blinking blue and when i activate ch6 nothing hapoens before with one controller everything worked as it should just in case i ordered a new elechawk switch maybe that is the issue i do know the solenoid isnt getting current from the elechawk

Probably could, you would have to design a radio remote control interface that mimicked the input control of a joy stick. If you run across such a design, please post a link, I would be interested in such a design. The sabertooth motor controller that I used is the simplest way to implement RC control you can use.

Easier to just use the servos to move the joystick with a slot plate.

I have approximately $2000 invested in this mower.

Hi what’s up, unfortunately I do not have the time to devote to an another build.

@@giterbilt5146 Thank you for coming back to me, would you be able to provide a list of part, only need to motor for the wheels, and the electrics, I downloaded your plans and working on a frame :) will show you my progress soon thank you love this project.

@@whatsup3358 I wish I did have a parts lists that would help people like you with their build. Gregor Kobetic has a video on motors that may be helpful, plus some great information on building a RC Mower. The biggest hurdle for most people is wheel hubs that attach directly to the motors. This was a big problem for me also. ​​⁠ Here is a link to motor wheel combination that could work. These are brushed motors that will connect directly to a sabertooth motor controller. The joystick is not needed. www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806084232655.html?src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=19235666539&albag=&trgt=&crea=en3256806084232655&netw=x&device=c&albpg=&albpd=en3256806084232655&gad_source=1&aff_fcid=6dacd2df1f8c4fc4b066e92bfa034ba3-1714222836070-09136-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=6dacd2df1f8c4fc4b066e92bfa034ba3-1714222836070-09136-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=66749f54600d4b4c9fae0da09439ac79&afSmartRedirect=y&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa. I have schematics for the electronics on my google drive which indicate electronic components used. Good luck with your project, I look forward to seeing the finished project.

@@giterbilt5146 thank you for this I will get the frame made and workout the mounting for my device, thank you for the wheel link

Hi David, you are absolutely correct! The line to the left of diode should not be there. Thanks for bringing this to my attention. I will update the schematic when I get a chance. The circle with an A in it is a symbol for an Alternator.

Schematic updated. Thanks again for your help.

@@giterbilt5146 oh thanks for the reply. Kind regards David

Sorry. I have another question before I turn the power on. I do not understand why each motor's positive and negative wires do not Return to the same Controller in all cases? For example left Motor front takes it's positive from positive on the left Hand sabretooth but it's negative returns to the negative on the right hand sabretooth. Why does it not simply return to the left sabretooth? The same question applies in all 4 cases. If I had not seen your Diagramm I would have driven the front left Motor from the Pos and neg on the left sabretooth and the left rear motor from the same pair of Pos and neg terminal on the right hand sabretooth. And ditto for the other side. If you find time to answer I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you Kind regards David

I don’t know what the Veterans Administration was putting in my medication when I made this drawing, but I sure screwed it up. New medications new wiring diagram. Simpler to read. God I hope it’s right this time. S1 on each controller drives the front motors, S2 drives the rear set. In this diagram I show the rear motors in reverse polarity because they are mounted in the opposite direction from the front on my chassis. Again, I apologize for the confusion and thank you greatly for pointing this out. The updated diagram is on my google shared drive. If you find any other mistakes, please let me know.

My criteria was a single belt pulley, single wire system, 24V and cheap. I have an explanation of the alternator performance in the comments for the “End of mowing season review video”.

@@giterbilt5146 thank you for the reply. I found that comment thread and asked a question there

Hi Dustin, I made the clamps out of 5/8 inch bolts welded to Harbor Freight clamps. There are multiple videos on how to cut the clamp and weld on the bolt. The 1-2-3 and 2-4-6 blocks I got on Amazon.

That’s a heck of a deal! The legs are free. I’m sure they corrected the problem that I had. All the other reviews of these table do not mention it. The tables @ $500 alone are worth it. Hard to find a 4’x6’ cast iron table setup for $2K.

Thanks for watching!

The information you seek is linked in the description.

Thanks for the compliment. After mowing about 1 .5 hours and 1/4 mile round trip to my shop, the batteries are 1.5 volts less than full capacity. I recharge after mowing with a 24V battery charger which I connect to the positive and negative terminals on the alternator. It takes about 15 minutes to fully recharge. The alternator only extends the run time, it will not charge more than the average discharge rate of the electric motors. I have stopped mowing and let the mower run to recharge the batteries, takes less time than the charger, it charges rather quickly.

@@giterbilt5146 Thanks for your info and super quick reply!