Відео

@@BLG80 well, it’s not dry. It’s wet enough to have different instincts. Non-abs bikes/cars don’t need much to lose total control without performance tires and skill. Current video is close to full rain approach in my case.

​@@wannabepioneerI don't think it's anything close to full rain conditions. I ride all year around in any conditions and I see a dry line on the wet breaking section. Plus you breaked in 4.5 seconds from 100kph. Not in rain you didn't, no chance the physical laws of traction says that's B.S. At best it was damp.

@@BLG80 no offence but when you are proving your point, at least spell ‘braking’ the correct way, not ‘breaking’ - two completely different things. The title says wet and dry - my question is, was it dry or was it wet? Don’t get me wrong, I rode that bike 30k km in 4 years, from +5’C march (also during the last snow) up until november when the first minus degrees were around the corner. I am aware of different rain conditions, but I’m not dumb enough to ride during heavy rain. I use the gas and brakes at least 30% less actively compared to dry conditions.

@@wannabepioneer Ahh I see, fair weather rider no probs mate.

It was a downhill track. 250W motors in EU are limited to 25.5km/h

They are limited but they can be unlocked for more than 25kmh

​@@DarkSandmaN666 have you figured out how to unlock the speed?

No i got Eliglide m2

Instant loss of control, if lucky you’ll end up in a tankslapper, which is super difficult to recover. Therefore, it is important to service brakes regulary and avoid grabbing the front brake lever in panic.

Release the front brake when you feel the tyre locking and then pull it again instantly, and use just two fingers to pull the brake, in some cases(dry roads and if you are going staright) it is recoverable

I was going downhill at 100kph roughly right before a corner and I started braking hard for the corner. I didn't know how much traction I had available, but soon I locked up the front wheel and I felt the motorcycle lean to the left and I instantly tried to catch it with my feet while quickly releasing the brakes. Thankfully I saved it and the motorcycle quickly stabilized before the turn, but I sure am getting abs for my next bike, it doesn't influence riding in any way (unless you like locking up wheels), but it's always there in case you mess up braking by locking the wheels in an emergency situation or when other variables change (rain, cold tires, potholes, painted lines, ecc.) I've found myself always saving front-wheel lock ups, but I think everytime it was sheer luck because all of those actions I have just described happened in a fraction of a second and they were instinctive, probably if I added very little lean angle, or if I tried to swerve I would have lost control and fell from my bike. So it's possible to save a lockup of the front, but I wouldn't recommend for you to experience one, very scary.

Yes it's recoverable, most of the time depends on how hard and the duration of the lock up. Slamming on the breaks will undoubtedly get you in trouble, but if the lock up is mild and or the surface is wet you stand a better chance to recover. Locking up the front is much easier on the wet so to avoid that ride in a lower gear as this introduces engine breaking and you only need a light touch on the front and tiny bit of rear. In the dry locking up is pretty much always bad riding or observations, been forced into a situation where a hard break in the dry, so much so it locks up the front, is very very rare and just bad riding in 99% of situations I would say.

Actually just got a small puncture few minutes prior that I didn’t notice, so the rear tire was flat enough to damage the tube and rim. Ended up bending the derailleur from the impact as well.

Ah. From the video title, you had me thinking hard tails can't take stairs at speed.

everybody thinks theyre the best rider in the world till a kid runs up infront of you and you panic smash those breaks, lose control, lose your life and take a kid with you, get yourself an abs, it cannot be recommended enough

@@josuededeus1486 It doesn't take the best rider in the world to not freak out like a little girl when it's time to use the brakes. ABS can help for sure if the surface is unexpectedly more slippery than it appears or other special circumstances. But if your expectation is you will drop your bike on dry pavement if a kid runs out in front of you, then you suck and should take some classes and practice in a parking lot. With all due respect.

​@josuededeus1486 don't go fast in a place with people and even if you crash no one will lose their lives most likely

Yeah the EP 2 Pro is a great all-rounder for its price, have fun

@@wannabepioneer It's actually the engine pro 2. But it's basically the same frame. I didn't know it fits in the side of a 4 door.

My first bike was yamaha 600 enduro, but anything with good brakes and suspension its very safe on trails you’ve been before. Its much like riding on ice or on a very slippery road, got to keep it straight and use every patch of clear pavement.

I’d recommend 40% front brake 40% engine and 20% rear brake ALL at the same time. Can’t say that to modern bikes with 4 to 6-piston front calipers but I’d definitely recommend all three brakes together as engine braking is probably the most efficient at any speed. It’s useful to have a good feel over all the “lifelines” you’ve got in hand. You can’t go wrong with engine braking as long as its on the right speed ratio. 100-80kmh 6, 5, 4th gear, 80-50kmh 3rd, 50-30kmh 2nd gear are fine for engine braking if you slip the clutch smoothly while applying front and rear brakes. Engine braking also helps to force the whole bike to the ground via chain and sprockets, not only through the rear disc and tire, which means chain and sprockets work as an extra brake that keep the bike straight to the ground. Engine braking is especially efficient on an older (non-abs) bike as it doesn’t flip the rear wheel nor the front wheel out of control. Besides, you don’t want to search for gears when you’ve come to lower speeds and start to jerk from there.

​@@wannabepioneertq 😅

Gradually

Should be gradual at the start to shift weight over to the front but you can slightly modulate the brakes harder to come to a faster stop. Practice makes perfect and will certianly help in a panic. Especially practicing with imagining a car appearing infront of you. It works!!

Its 1994 Kawasaki GPX600R

And bikes?

If you ride a proper bike with good brakes and 150 hp,that bike brakes fromm 200-100 like a car brakes from 100-0

Bikes break better than cars in general

@@roby496 that can also get you rear ended, its important to keep distances and be aware of your surroundings

​@@roby496😂

Haha great story! Indeed, it's all about the s k i l l ! Sounds sketchy now to do that on a 30yo technology, but back then it was top of the line. Sport bike = performance handling, speed and manuverability, it's funny to think about it now with all the advancements. For this video - I actually had the brakes fully maintained few months later which was basically the first full maintenance done on the brakes. Now the braking power are almost too good for the soft front end. Will have to do the test again next summer!

Where there dragons as well ?😅

@@unknownRebelPL wait until you get old and bikes start flying !? 😂😂😂

@@claudebaron9334 haha 😂🙃😍

@@unknownRebelPL I know it sounds like a scene from a movie, but swear to god everything is true, the guy who got out of his car to look at me and the bike from every angles to understand how was it possible what he’d just seen, I was with other’s friends on bikes and my best friends was kinda park beside me at the light, he had a date with him, the girl didn’t knew us very much, but when she saw the guy completely in the limbo trying to figured out where was the cables holding the bike on balance to keep it that time in the air…. Obviously he didn’t had any answers, so he wasn’t talking he was just 200% baffled by everything, and my friend new girl was watching him all the way…, she had laughs so much, that she was ashamed because she literally pissed herself from laughing. and honestly I can’t remember how many times situation kinda like that one have happened, sportbikes have been the passion of my life, sure I’ve hurts myself….. a lots !!! but still don’t regret anything it is my life 👍

I wouldn't advise doing so - its rated to 25kg (55lbs) or something. The bike itself is quite durable though with 350lb capacity, mainly thanks to cast wheels.

@@wannabepioneer and on the engine pro version is that different ?because the back luggage looks different on that one

@@Hhh_.7 I'm pretty sure it's not for 2 persons, maybe only if a child would sit there. Engine Pro has a rear suspension which would definilitely bottom out asap under the load.

Hi,do you think that we can put a baby seat on it ?

@@Hhh_.7 its not for 2 people but my gf always sit here and it has no problem, just a bit less range max speed and torque

I'm 6'2" / 188cm

@@wannabepioneer thanks bro , is it a good bike ?? Why do you prefer this one compared to engine pro ? Thanks

@@yazid184 Engine Pro has dual suspension, EP2Pro only fronk fork. At this price point I wouldn't put too much expectations on the quality of both forks. Both are heavy bikes (EP and EP 2) too, and the suspension is energy consuming, which means shorter range. It already has 4" tires which offer a lot of comfort.

Yo me he querido comprarla pero no me deja.A tu te ha pasado un error parecido

What it is then?

a dust thrower

750W is way more powerful, 250W will get you a better range though. Here the police don't check eBikes, only the unlimited e-scooter riders.

There's no review here... just some footage of the bike.

@@mikoaj1321 Just like the title of this video - footage of actually using the bike :)

Smh... What you call "bullshit" is called a "review" by normal people 😒

@@wannabepioneer great video tho

Tere Ratas saadeti aasta tagasi Poolast kui veel saadaval oli ainsa riigina EUs - nyyd rohkem riike kust kiiremini tellida. Talvel võib sellega olla päris mugav, aga aku külmakraadidega ilmselt kaua vastu ei pea (aku raami sees, ei saa katta). Talvel kasutades peab ootama veel, et aku toasoojusele tõuseks + 6h laadimisaeg otsa. EP 2 Pro oli ülimugav, kardan et Engine Pro kaks amorti pole pikaks sõiduks ehk kõige ökom, aga ratas ise võib päris äge olla. Engwe muidu üllatavalt hea kvaliteediga - nende C20'ga saab pea 150km maha uhada ntks.

@@wannabepioneer Tänud info eest. Õnneks on talvel võimalik soojas hoida enne sõitmist, eks arvestama peab ikka aku kiirema kuluga. Tnx.

1000e

Too much mountainbiking