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Water based paints won’t last as long, but to give you the best longevity, grind or shot blast the floor first. This will allow the paint to stick properly. If you have access to an MMA paint that would be my go-to product, followed by a solvent / oil based and then a water based. Here’s how I’d prepare the ground: ua-cam.com/video/waKl0IdXYcU/v-deo.htmlsi=0DiCiBo8BtlrrhAl

Small areas at a time. That’s the only way I’m afraid. Most of our customers run their warehouses 24 hours a day, and how we get around this is simply isolating small areas that we can prepare i.e. shop blast/grind and then we paint and reopen those areas. There’s no ideal solution unless the customer has any downtime.

@@AlexCIrving thanks sound advice 👌was thinking the same stay awesome 💪

Good to hear that. Best of luck with it

Thanks

Thanks, will do! I’ll be back filming line marking videos in no time!

Great question thanks. I'll break it down in to a few parts: Indoor marking: This really depends on the product; for the solvent paint used here, I find that I get a better finish when hand applying it. Arguably it's slower and in order to get extra durability, I paint 2 coats. I think it really comes down to preference and every time I've sprayed indoors, its only lasted a few months, hence, I always hand apply. Shot blasting is a must, nothing will last unless you prep the floor. The best product to use would be a 2 part epoxy resin (www.swarco.com/products/road-markings/swarco-safety-line/swarcocryl-2-c-indoor) or an ultraviolet curable paint such as RapidShield (rapidshield.com/). These are 2 manufacturers I use. The one in this video is made by Veluvine and is a product called Marqualit. www.aximum.com/industrie/veluvine For car park lines: I would say hand applied MMA is your best product to use and you can purchase a hand mould for less than £40 and get started. You don't need a machine to start laying lines. The downside of course, is that although the hand mould is cheap, the MMA paint is triple the price. I personally use PPG or Geveko for MMA www.geveko-markings.com/products/paints-plural-components/plural-components If you want to spray (it's a lot quicker) you can buy a sprayable MMA such as the Veluvine Rossignol MMA or you can use the solvent system used in this video. In the US nearly everyone uses water based or acrylic - They're fine, but not as good as MMA. Preparation outside: For tarmac car parks, you need to ensure there is no organic matter, dirt etc. on the ground and make sure the area is dry. Ideally you would dry every line even when it looks dry as concrete holds moisture really well. I also ask my customers to pressure wash the area a few days before as removes all the silt etc that will reduce the paint longevity. For concrete, always grind or shot blast outside. Concrete is a nightmare to get anything to stick to but its cheap so builders use it everywhere. You may also want to use a primer on concrete to get it to stick.

Thanks!

Thanks! I’m never sure how long to make them. I end up trying to shorten them thinking people won’t want the longer in depth ones but I’ll make sure to continue with them now!

Hi Diego, thanks for your message. You can book a 1:1 consultation with me at linestriping.expert or alternatively, you can email me at alex@linestriping.expert and I can send you a link calendly.com/line-mark/30-minute-1-1?month=2024-05

Hi, we use the Geveko transparent matt sealer for most of the projects, but if you need enhanced durability, you could go with the SolidLux or RapidShield which are UV curable. We tend to use these for heavy traffic areas. Here's a link to the UV machines we use and list of the UV sealer suppliers: www.decorad.com/en/products/new-uv-floorcure-2030

Thank you

Thanks for the feedback Michael. Glad it was useful. I have just filmed a Titan 6955 review which I'll release this week :)

Thanks for your feedback! I'm glad you enjoy it. It's early days in filming content for me, but I do love making videos for you all. There are plenty more to come.

Certainly some of them are very expensive but this new one, although the price and details haven't been released to consumers, is poised at being under £10k / $12.5k while using the same 190N thrust as the Hammer Jet. As soon as I'm allowed to release the full details, I'll post a video of it!

Thanks for your comment. No, we don’t clean. It’s not our specialty. We always ask the customers to do it before we arrive. They have to sign a disclaimer to say they have done so, but often it hasn’t been done!

Absolutely! The materials are too cheap and flimsy to compete with Graco. What machines do you use?

Thanks

Thanks John. Sounds like you’re ready to go. Starting a business is certainly daunting to say the least but honestly, it’s so worth it. You ever hear the expression “it’s better to have tried and failed, than to have never tried at all”? I say go for it!

Glad you like them! I’m actually in Texas later in the year

Thanks

thanks

Thanks for the feedback

No but I think I probably ought to be

Thanks Ian, appreciate it!

We use an impacts S210 40R shot blaster with a longopac vacuum. The blaster needs a 16a 3phase +N+E while the vacuum needs 16a 110v It’s a good compact machine for smaller projects but lacks a punch if you’re doing a large area. The max width is 200mm and you can put reduced plates in to create 100mm / 50mm lines etc.

Great question Jack. We used to spray lines but in truth, the lines looked awful in my opinion. I'm always surprised to see our competitors spray and then showcase the images - I'd make our guys re do it if I saw the lines some people leave! [They] go down way to thick and don't give the same high quality finish as hand rolled. I always find that spray lifts the tape up also. And, if you don't tape, you get a feathered edge. Also, don't you just hate the joins and corners that spray leaves!? they're always raised where the paint overlaps and wear our prematurely. It's fine in a carpark but indoors is a different ball game. The only benefit of spray I see is the speed of installation. We could spray 10 times faster than hand apply. Instead however, we charge a bit more and hand apply everything. You get a consistently smooth finish and the lines are left with a sharp edge. Each to their own as they say. Some people love to spray and they still get paid! For me, it's hand apply all the way. P.S I love the work you guys do at Acculine - your car park lines are always spot on! If you ever want to come on site and try hand applied indoors, we're only an hour down the A1 form you, and you'd be most welcome to join us for a day.

Great point thanks. Depends if your targeting views in America or U.K. then doesn't it..

We use Geveko HS for our single part paint system. You need to paint 2 coats and then seal it with the Geveko Matt sealer. It does have a very strong smell (solvent) when you install it so I would recommend doing it out of hours with the warehouse doors open. For the 2 part system we use KDR Resin Epocoat. It has a ver low VOC (virtually no smell) but it takes around 18-24 hours per coat and needs to coats. For the UV paint system we use Geveko HS or a water based paint and then we use a UV sealer from Quaker Chem knows as RapidShield.

This is a single part system called Geveko HS and we apply it in 2 coats followed by a Matt sealer. It is a solvent based product with a strong smell so keep the doors open and the area well ventilated. It will dry quickly but the smell does linger for a few hours!

Mine to 😊

Hope the lines are still looking great!

Can't believe how many people know this school!

Thanks for the comment! Hope you enjoy the journey with us

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Glad to hear it! It was fun to install but we never tried it out!

Thanks for the comment, glad you liked the video!

If you jump to 3:16 you can see we actually swept all of the lines before painting. Blowers work fine most of the time, but this one had so much heavily ingrained dirt that we had to use a power brush to get it up first!

We run at around 1500 PSI using a 321 tip positioned 6" from the ground

We run at around 1500 PSI using a 321 tip positioned 6" from the ground

Years! its not the weight of the trucks that damage them, it's dragging pallets and forks that does it. It doesn't matter what product you use, if it damages the concrete, it's definitely going to damage the paint. We actually use this paint on nearly every single job and we haven't had any instances where its failed or broken up. The only time we ever go back is when it's been damaged from impact.

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Great question. We use a short pile roller for the paint and foam roller for the sealer.

Thank you!

Great questions thanks. We use a single part system (solvent or acrylic). We can't spray anti-slip as it always clogs the machines no matter what tip and filter we use! we tend to roll and anti-slip by hand.

It works a treat!

3m parking spaces are the best! a normal space is only 2.4m wide which was fine when cars were much smaller. Now days, it's a real struggle which is exacerbated by the need for more spaces, for more customers/staff + needing them bigger, but not having any more room to fit them in. Herringbone is great but no good for this type of car park as the end of the bays have a large dead space that can't be used

I use a Graco 215 at 1500 PSI spraying a single part paint. Keep the tip around 6" from the ground

Great question and Yes, to answer your question. I have painted a few floors before in rented warehouses where the customer didn't want to shot blast because they were worried that when they handed the warehouse back, they would be charged by the landlord or where they simply didn’t have the budget. In every case I have painted without shot blasting, the lines have failed in month if not weeks and the customer always wants you back in at your cost to put it right, no matter how many times you explained it to them. Shot blast or grind every single time and walk away from the job if the customer says no! It will only reflect badly on you and your business otherwise