Відео

Here's a quick video I posted for the Wi-Fi setup: ua-cam.com/video/bq0ddVbTV-Y/v-deo.html

Glad the video helped. That proximity sensor is easy to forget to re-adjust back to the proper height after replacing parts or making changes to the module.

You're welcome! Yea I've tried wriggling wires around without fully pulling parts out. Sometimes it works well, sometimes it's a pain. i find it's best to show the easieast/most thorough way first though :) Once you see how it's done 'properly', then you can find ways to do shortcuts. hehe

At eufy's current stage it's only possible to add up to five shared accounts. Only the main account with devices set up has the right to share devices. The Eufy Security Video Smart Lock itself, can store up to 100 different passcodes and up to 50 fingerprints.

Personally, I like it. However, unlike the travel pillow, this one didn't quite fit me as-is. I had to slowly adjust the pillow, in my case, removing some filler, to get it to fit me right. That actually took a few weeks to get it just right since I was only removing a little at a time and then trying to sleep with it for a few days before adjusting the filling again. Once I got it the way I like it, it became my primary pillow. With that being said, if I could only get one pillow, this one or their travel pillow. I would probably take the travel pillow. The travel pillow is smaller, but it's not really that much smaller. Especially compared to my other travel pillows that it replaced. The other reason is that the travel pillow is a good size for traveling, as the name states, so I can take the pillow with me. This pillow is just a bit too big to try and squeeze down to size for traveling with. Regardless, you can't go wrong with either of those pillows, and I'm quite pleased with them both.

Thanks!

Well, this one is a gas dryer and not the electric version. In the early stage of release, you could start the gas dryer remotely, but they disabled that feature for safety reasons. The electric one was still capable of being started remotely, but I'm not sure if that is still the case or not. There are a lot of things you can control remotely, like the timer, cycle, and notification settings as well as watch the progress on the app.

As it says in the title, it's the Soundcore Select Pro

You have two options for S330 to make it work. It comes with the chime, which is technically required, as it works as both the door chime and the video recorder. The door chime is only required if you don't have a home base. If you have a home base, you can connect it to that instead of the door chime. It has to be connected to one or the other. If connected to the homebase the recording will then take place on the home base. If using the homebase, you will have 3 options for door chime: 1. Homebase as chime, 2. Alexa as chime, 3. Use a USB dongle to connect the eufy doorbell chime to the home base and use that as the chime.

I have to agree, it was worth every penny. I use it all the time as well.

Love hearing that Ricardo - have some fun with it! 🤙

@reg26 I'm not home at the moment, when I do I'll look up the two versions. The only way to tell the difference between the mounts is by the looks. Sadly, they didn't label them v1 or v2.

@@R-TechEnthusiast Thanks so much!

@reg26 Ok, looks like they did away with v2 of the vibration dampener and only offer v1 and the newest v3. v3 is their new "universal" vibration dampener and it's supposed to be compatible with all their various mounts, so that's the one you want now. I may have to buy it myself and see what's different from the one I bought. Since this v3 is newer than what I had posted, the install my vary slightly, so be aware of that.

@reg26 I'm not sure which mount you're going to put the dampener on, but this is what Rokform says about the v3 compatibility: COMPATIBILITY: Version 3 works with all Rokform twist lock cases and motorcycle mounts (V2 for Ball Adapter Mount)

@@R-TechEnthusiast I'm going to give them a call Monday and see what they say. Thanks so much. I don't know why they just don't make one ready to go except the fact that you have to buy two to get it done lol.

Nice. I wasn't so lucky. I did keep it and try using it, but after having it a couple months, it started to randomly disconnect and would no longer connect to the phone, and I would have to go through the whole re-sync process all over again in order to get it to work. Got rid of it after I got tired of dealing with it.

Glad I could help you make an informed decision!

You're welcome! Glad it was helpful.

I could be wrong, but I can't help but to think you might be mis-understanding the use of a vibration dampener. The point of the vibration dampener is to stop the high frequency buzz, generated by the motorcycle, from reaching your phone. Those high frequency buzz/micro-vibrations are what cause havoc to the internals of your phone and potentially damaging it. The vibration dampener reduces/eliminates those high frequency buzz/micro-vibration from reaching your delicate phone. It does NOT eliminate regular, bouncy vibrations. A vibration dampener is not a gimbal or stabilizer. Once you understand the concept of what a vibration dampener is and/or is not, then you can you appreciate what it really does for your devices. I use the vibration dampener on my bike for my phone and it works great. I also have another vibration dampener for my insta360 mount on my motorcycle. I would never install a phone mount or cam mount on my motorcycle without a vibration dampener. Those devices cost way too much to risk damage to it from the high frequency buzz/micro-vibrations caused from riding a motorcycle. At the end of the day, it's up to each person to put a value on their devices and decide if it's worth using a vibration dampener to protect their devices or not.

I use an Peack design... wayyy better

Sorry, can't help you with that. I no longer have that monitor.

You're welcome 🙂

yes...

No, it's only designed for connecting to a PC using USB and using Bluetooth to connect to smartphones and tablets. Unlike the GP9, which has various input ports, this only has the one USB port. If anyone has figured out a way to get the GP3 to connect to a console, I haven't heard about it.

I got it from Amazon, but they appear to be out of stock and it isn't showing up when you search for it. Amazon tends to hide products when it's not available for sale. It actually does come in quite handy. It's only 4v, so it's not powerful at all. As long as the holes you're trying to screw into is pre-drilled, then it's fine. Here's a link to the one I currently have, but is out of stock: amzn.to/4esYhNt. Maybe it'll come in stock again soon. Here's a link to one that is similar to mine, but with more torque and a case plus bits: amzn.to/3TvlAhy. This one is currently on a lightning deal with a coupon as well.

Sorry, I don't have the monitor anymore.

what´s an offer-up ad? excellent price, I never saw them under $40.

it's just a sticker of their logo. You can stick it anywhere you want.

Thanks :)

You're welcome :)

Thanks. The app has its purpose, as little as it may be. :)

It's a good buy, especially if you find it on sale.

I don't have one to test it with so I'm not sure on that.

I don't have that issue. Does it appear in the local recordings too?

No. I didn't try the local recording yet.

@@leonfx2009 try a different USB cable as well. Some people complained about the cable being the bad.

USB cable? There's no USB involved! I connect the receiver with the camera using the 3.5mm jack?

@leonfx2009 ah sorry, I assumed it was connected to a phone :) try a different 3.5 cable.

Good luck, that's what mine did as well. A series of clicks until I turned the key off. In my case, replacing the starter fixed the issue. I did end up replacing the starter solenoid as well since I already had the cover off anyways and just chalked it up to preventative maintenance :)

You don't connect stock parts to the Denali Cansmart, it's for connecting accessories to it. The video does show how to connect the auxiliary B6 brake light to the cansmart though. It's a simple plug and play connection.

It doesn't matter if it's a cheap or expensive multimeter. The panel might look different, but the process is the same. Set the switch to Voltage, make sure it's set to read DC power and not AC power, then put the leads on it.

@@R-TechEnthusiast Thanks!

I had recorded it, but I had originally misplaced the video. I did find it not long ago, but since it's so old now I never bothered to edit or post it. I do still use the Aoocci and have liked it since I got it.

With a LOT of patience. It's a pain threading that strap through the hole. It can be done though. Probably easier if you have fish line. Cut a short line and tie one end to the strap (not to tight) that is meant to go through the strap holder and feed the other end of the fish line through the hole. Once you feed it through, untie the line and secure the strap to the radio.

Should only blink blue and not blue/green after powering the speakers on by holding the power button for 3 seconds. Try doing a factory reset or a hard reset, then power it on and see if the lights blink.

Fuse? There's no fuse in the extruder that I'm aware of.

Try updating your firmware in the AAwireless.

I didn't notice any setting like that. However, my vehicle also has the usb port always being powered and I've noticed that the unit is actually off when I get into my truck. So I'm guessing it does shut off after a while of being disconnected and comes back on when the vehicle powers back up again.

Personally, I like it. It's many times better than the OEM seat, though I think all the major seat manufacturers will be better than OEM. I've ridden as long as 8 hours (with the exception of 1 stop for fill-up) and i was still doing fine. If you have the opportunity to try it out, or any of the other manufacturers, on another bike first, I would do that. Each manufacturer cuts their seats differently so what fits me great, may not be so good for others. With that said, I wouldn't go back to OEM. The biggest reason I went with Sargent was that I didn't have to send them my old seat and they had options with the heated panels built into the seat. The reason I didn't want to send my old seat was mainly because I didn't want to be without my bike while I waited for them to retrofit the OEM seat with the new cushions. At the time of my purchase, I believe Sargent was the only one that didn't require the OEM seat to be sent to them.

It's not required, it's recommended. Otherwise, once the battery is dead, you have to remove it and recharge the battery. During that time, the lock will have no battery power and will be unusable, with the exception of using the key. It takes many hours to fully charge these batteries.

No. The battery has a usb c port for charging. So any phone charger with usb c cable will charge your battery.

Same day. As soon as the fridge was set up, they immediately loaded the old one and took it with them.

some of the screws have locktite on it, which gives it some resistance when trying to remove it for the first time. As long as it's not rusted or frozen in place, it should come out with a little effort.

Thanks! Unfortunately I don't remember the name brand of the crash bars anymore. I had bought them directly from my local BMW dealership though. I had recorded the install of the crash bars, but sadly my camera battery died and I didn't notice until I had already completed and put everything back together again. :( Going by the pictures on the websites, my crash bars do not appear to be any of the following brands: R&G, Wonderlich, TouraTech, or Iliumworks. If that helps any.