Відео

If you are referring to the valve guide/protection, then I was told by Spec to run it with tubes and have been doing so for 5 years now.

Not 100% sure what that could be. But I would look into the motor. As they fail they tend to draw more amperage, which could explain the GFI tripping

I have to open up my machine this weekend as I have some loose scale blocking water flow. Happened this AM as I was pouring my shot. Talk about a bad way to start the day. Anyhow, i'll film a short on disconnecting the water pump electrical connections.

Still going to post up a video here shortly showing how to disengage a safety, but I'll try and talk you through it here. So right at the base of the female section where it goes from wide to narrow into the wire right so at the bottom of the wide bit you want to push in right there and pull at the same time. I'm not really sure how to describe that better but there is a detent there that you can press on and hold down while you pull the connector off. I hope that was helpful keep an eye out for the video.

And the short ua-cam.com/users/shortsuVGC_Te_qLA?feature=share

@@lai2703 Thank you! I got caught up on life and appreciate the response!

did you check the lines that attach at the bottom of the boiler for any blockages?

@@lai2703 not yet, I’m going to check there next. Thanks man

@@lai2703 there’s two lines that are scaled so badly that I can’t even pull them out. I’m guessing that’s the issue but I have no idea how to remove them without damaging the lines! I’ve mixed descaler into hot water and brushed it on multiple times but they’re not budging.

@@Robdutton91 in my experience the scale breaks off and clogs the line, but doesn't "trap" the line. however, the rubber o-ring on the brass end does tend to be tricky to dislodge and reinsert. once the retention clip is out you can try a pocket screwdriver in that slot ad try to nudge the brass bit to break loose. only need a little bit of movement. If that doesn't work, you could also try pulling the other end of the line and then spinning the line in clockwise or counterclockwise directions to see if that o-ring will break it's seal. the longer rubber sits the less likely it wants to come out. The line closest to the grinder is almost always the one I have scale in. concentrate on that one.

i'm not a big fan of resistance to diag a component but I will get to this. I had been waiting on another meter. I have one on the boat, one at the shop, and now I'll have one at home. Just came in today. i'll check the old one tonight and reply back.

@@lai2703 OK

Unfortunately I had too much kit to haul home in my paneer and the dvom didn't make the cut. Probably be Sunday before I post something up. Maybe Saturday. Sorry

655ohm measured for both solenoids

If you're referring to the smooth version, from what I understand they are no longer available and haven't been for some time. However, i will tell you I've gotten good durability out of the current textured version and it's only marginally slower.

Sounds like the pump is either locked up or failed. However, you can't rule out that it isn't getting power and or the board or some other circuit has failed.

yeah, that's the first place I look. my issues were the noise and the pump didn't move any water. With the back off looking at the boiler the line to your right on the lower part of the boiler that goes to the end of the solenoid block (also your right) is the one I always fine scale in. usually, just at the boiler side as the tubes are too small to pass the scale. look inside the boiler as well.

I'd have to go add up my miles, but I figure i'm north of 300 and under 500. They still look pristine. Not a tire I would set out on a 100 mile ride on or go using on bad roads, but they seem to be more robust than their construction would imply. Full disclosure i'm around 175lbs all in (bike, water, kit, and me) and the roads I stick to have almost perfect pavement with only some sections I would consider questionable for paper thin tires.

I bought it from the link in the description. They come and go out of stock. This looks like the 3-way valve: a.co/d/fQYAZ3Z Do your research to make sure it is correct, but on a quick search it looks correct. The 2-way valve looks to be this one: a.co/d/dw03jEa Again, do your research to make sure they are correct. Good luck!

There are links in the description for the parts on ereplacement.com. You may also find them on Amazon if you do a search. good luck!

Por casualidad sabes los números de partes de los repuestos

@@teamcafeclasico3164 if you click on the links in the description it takes you to the part and the PN is there. Water pump on Amazon: www.amazon.com/Model-120v-minutes-Breville-Espresso/dp/B077ZRP3GD/ref=sr_1_1?ascsubtag=1ba00-01000-a0049-mac00-other-smile-us000-gatwy-feature-SEARC&keywords=SP0020447&qid=1658173779&sr=8-1 Unfortunately, I did not locate the solenoid block on Amazon.

The wheel is a lot stronger than you might think. It should also be said that tubeless tires will be much harder to mount than normal clinchers and likely slower too. I mounted up some veloflex records last spring and they went on much, much easier than vittoria corsa speeds. The records are much faster too, but beware that they are paper thin. I've ridden them about a dozen times or so and they still look new. That's likely only around 350-450 miles, but i've had good luck with them. In one of the previous comments someone mentioned using soap. I haven't done that yet, but I might grab a bar of soap and rub it on the rim before swapping on a new tire. Lastly, I recall my conti-supersonic going on easier than the corsa speeds as well. Could just be the tire you're using. Good luck!! ETA: make sure the bead of the tire is fully in the channel all the way around the rim especially opposite of the part of the bead you're trying to get over. And I think I said it in the video but if I didn't start 180º from the valve stem so the bead can drop all the way into the channel and not be hindered by the valve. This technique also prevents pinch-flats when running tubes. i.e. you should be ending at the valve stem side of the wheel.

Did you check for bits of scale in the boiler and it's lines? This should be a first check for poor to no pressure/flow. The one that seems to be the constant culprit for me is the lower connection at the boiler closest to the grinder. That sucks that you had to bin it, but I would suggest pulling it out and checking that line if you hadn't already. Also, might want to get a light and shine it into the boiler to ensure there is nothing further upstream blocking flow.

First thing I would check are the lines running to the boiler. These thin plastic lines clog very easily with bits of scale. A majority of failures are going to be blockages. Check that first.

You're most welcome. Makes me happy that it is still helping folks.

No, I never have. But I rarely use the brakes on my Time Trial bike and weigh less than 140lbs. That being said, I recommend that everyone follow all manufacturer guidelines in regards to how to safely use their respective products. Also, these guys look no worse for wear. I'd have to go figure out the mileage, but I have done a number of rides on them and the tread still looks new.

It would seem to me that IF you are not descending 60 MPH+ switch-backed cols in a Grand Tour, you would be OK. I have heard this very same cover their azzes disclaimer from latex tube AND wheel manufacturers, and subsequently am looking for a set of unobtainium currently, deeper carbon section with an ALLOY braking surface wheels to use my Vittoria latex tubes in without any worries at all.

Apologies for the delayed response. If I am understanding your situation correctly the seal itself might be damaged. On a machine that young I wouldn't think that is the case, but it fits the description. You can find a replacement seal on Amazon but they are finicky to install and may lead to the basket getting slightly stuck after pulling a shot. At least the one I purchased and installed causes this to happen. Good luck!

as the saga continues. what I thought was a leak was the drain pipe into the drip tray. So looks like I got this thing rolling again! Now I am making espresso shots every 2-4 hours...LOL!!!!

Enjoy the coffee(s)!!

Scale is my number one go to. I usually find chunks at the ends of the line causing a partial blockage. This Red machine of mine seems to give me all the fits. 😅

Major savings there!! It's easy enough if you're willing to give it a go. Good job!

Hey! Can you share where you got the pump from?

Check for blockages in the lines. Typically bits of scale that have broken off on the boiler side of the lines. Good luck!!

@@lai2703 Thank you so much for the input!

I just changed the pump too, it fixed the pressure problem, so I deeply thank you for sharing your knowledge. I really appreciate it.

@@noahsassi9665 Glad you got it fixed!!

Did you check for blockage in the lines from scale?

@@lai2703 from scale?

@@Iceman-xe7jo scale deposits in the machine form from hard water which flake off from time to time and sometimes block the very small water lines.

@@lai2703 I’ll have to go back and take a look. Thanks

Veloflex make some damn fine tires. Glad you're liking them. These have proven to not be as fragile as they appear....at least not for me.