Відео

Yes! 2 years ago I replaced the top with a double thickness 36 mm (1.4") chipboard sized 100x170 cm (~40x67") and mounted the legs a little in the back so I don't touch the middle channel with my knees even if I slack on the chair and I'm still very impressed with how well the mechanism works. I didn't notice any wear on the motors (they didn't get louder and the movement once it's lifted didn't get any worse). Double thickness chipboard allowed me to put a monitor on an adjustable arm. The only thing was that chipboard this size weights ~40kg (88lbs) and if you need to take it up a narrow flight of stars it's not easy 😅 We have two at home (one with original top) and we still use them during all weekdays for work. I'm very impressed how it still works very well after all this use.

@@pandaengineering Thank you so much for the reply :) A quick question..is it possible to mount a monitor arm on the stock table top? i have a 27 inch LG monitor. The arm is currently mounted to the IKEA Trotten table top and it works perfectly so hoping it could workout. Thanks

@ManUnitedChants7 sorry, I don't think stock tabletop can be used (better to ask in IKEA just in case). The materials for Rodulf tabletop on website says "Particle- and fiberboard with honeycomb paper filling (100% recycled paper), Acrylic paint, Plastic edging" (so basically the cardboard filled like their cheap Lack tables) while the Trotten is a fully filled ("Material Particleboard, Melamine foil, Plastic edging"). When I tried to put the clamp the top started to bend, so probably it would eventually break off completely.

@@pandaengineering Ohh I see thank you so much for you reply..been a great help❤️

You can always run it from a wall charger or a device with USB, like a laptop ☺️

Lotus: The Ultimate Challenge or just Lotus 3 for DOS

@@pandaengineering thank you ao mush and also for this video

Thanks for the tip!

The device is not a scaler so it only converts the signal as-is from Component to HDMI. Doesn't change the output format. I was able to test 480i, 480p and 576i and they all worked fine on the TV supporting these via HDMI. All computer monitors I've tested with didn't support interlaced at all. Note, that some games switch video modes like Super Mario Sunshine at bootup that allows you to pick 480p or 480i (I think it starts on interlaced so it means no picture on a monitor that doesn't support it). 480p works for me with source from PSP, Wii and Wii running GC games (via Nintendont). With mentioned Super Mario Sunshine it allowed me to play in both interlaced and progressive just fine and the TV recognised the HDMI format too correctly in both cases. I have some Wii games patched for widescreen and 480p and these work as well. Sorry, I don't have a proper GC to test with. What I've also recently learned is that some games look better unpatched on 480i (apparently RE4 is nicer on the eyes interlaced), but it's up to personal preferences.

@@pandaengineering thank you for the response. And regarding GC games, I meant to play via the native retrocompatibility of the Wii.

I still have SD CRT, but PVM HDR shaders looks even better in both 240p / 480p. In this video you arent seeing 4K and HDR, so CRT phosphor mask cant be emulated perfectly. With 4K OLED and HDR, it's impossible to tell the difference between the real thing (CRT) and the emulated phosphor mask (at least on the static image, because you would meed 1000Hz OLED to match CRT motion quality), that's how good CRT shaders can look.

No it doesn't "always win", crap talker

​@@PabloB888it's not "impossible to tell the difference", crap talker! Of course you can tell the difference!

@ef1265 Google "sony megatron color video monitor" thread on libretro forum and see if you can guess which one is which without zooming in 1000% on the image. The only advantage CRT still has is better motion quality, but on the static image results look stunningly accurate. In fact, I prefer the emulated image because CRTs (and especially PVMs) are very small and do not allow me to change the phosphor masks to my liking.

@@PabloB888 you can still tell the difference even if it's a good recreation

The thing is that I could only record in 8K at 30fps, since even with h245 it was basically at quality of very clear 4k footage that I uploaded. At higher fps I also had all kinds of tearing on CRT as it seems it often was actually more around 59 Hz and I don't really have a professional camera that would be able to sync well enough at that level. I went with the 30fps even though I'm well aware that it's showing the ghosting that isn't there IRL, but at motion the recording was looking the closest I could get to what the eye sees without any artifacts of CRT drawing the image. I'm sure it can be done better 😊

@@pandaengineering Ahh, I see. I only meant it to be 50fps because of the scrollign on sample&hold vs impulse driven technology. Thanks for your efforts though to demonstrate OLED vs LCD vs CRT!

@turrican4d599 That's a very good point, I always appreciate the input 😁

The motion picture quality on the 240Hz OLEDs is very similar to my Panasonic GT60 plasma, meaning motion blur is minimal. Even on 170Hz LCD motion blur isnt that noticeable to me, and I still own real CRT.

OLED in general is the bees knees 👌👌

@@PabloB888Yeah but whenever you watch something that is 60fps capped it’s pretty blurry

It's pretty weird - the OLED screens you've tried were not the best quality. 60Hz refresh rate is not even very high for OLEDs. They are even faster than LCDs, and I have a LCD that has 165Hz refresh rate. This is way, way, way smoother than 60Hz. And yes - I doubted it's even possible to tell all the difference until I just saw how it looks and, what's the most important - how it affects my gaming. It's probably like how the myth of "better analog audio" was born. Early digital audio devices were poorly designed, bad quality, so compared with high quality analog audio they sounded worse. Even today you can buy badly sounding multimedia player. But it's not the tech. It's just specific products.

HAVEN'T USED, not "not used", crap English

The only way I know for sure that the camera is charged is when the blinking red light turns to steady. It seems that whenever you charge it, it runs very slow and doesn't want to respond to button presses, so I only use it when it runs on battery and charge it when it's off. App shows for me the battery state in the right upper corner of the preview, but it doesn't show how much is charged when connected and if it's done charging, so I look at the red light if it's still blinking or not. There is no motion detection, you need to start/stop recording manually. There is no way to delete the videos with an app. In the app you can only format the whole microSD card to erase all files. I usually just ignored the app and managed the files with USB OTG cable on my phone, because it was faster than the wifi connection. For me the date and time resets every time I turn off the camera and it only synchronises with phone time when I connect the app. I just turned off the timestamp from the videos because it was reset on all recordings.

I doubt it. This seems to be a standard chip they use in many IR controlled lights.

In this case turning them on and keeping the button pressed for a longer time (about 10-15seconds) nters them into pairing mode so they can become discoverable on your phone. It's important to keep the button pressed down even after they've turned on. There should be a jingle and the light should change blink red and blue.

After testing it again with RCA cables, connecting headphone jack disables audio output via HDMI and you can listen only via headphones regardless of the A/D switch. When headphones are disconnected I get sound via HDMI only when the light is off. I only have devices with audio RCA jacks, but I suspect now that this button may be for switching input between RCA jacks (analog) and coaxial audio input (digital), but I don't have hifi or DVD with that kind of output to test this.

No, sorry. This is only compatible with PS1 and only models SCPH-1XXX, SCPH-3XXX, SCPH-5XXX since they were the only ones with parallel port.

@@pandaengineering Is there a Game Shark just for Ps2?

@paolotortelli391 there is, also action replay(rebranded GameShark), Code breaker and Blaze. If you use Open PS2 Launcher there should be a native cheat solution. I read here that if you use Free McBoot, the Codebreaker would be the best. www.reddit.com/r/ps2/comments/q4bbpu/comment/hfznnzq/ I haven't used any of them myself before and don't have a PS2 to recommend anything now.

Sorry, but I can't confirm which specific version of PAL it outputs (might even be a semi-PAL signal, just converting colors). None of my TV show the signal type they get so there is no way to confirm this for me. I would recommend against using this specific converter as it has poor signal at the output. Best choice for PS1 is SCART cable or S-video and then convert this signal to what you need with an external converter if you run a CRT. If your TV has HDMI you might be better off getting a converter for that since it will be more flexible with input signals (although cheaper ones might cause some more lag than what TV would normally get with analog inputs).

You should be able to replace it yourself if you solder a new 3.6V NiMH battery in place of the old one (or just bind the wires together and isolate then with tape). The one in mine was 40mAh but any similar capacity should fit as well(make sure to measure it first). Price is anywhere $1.5 to even $10 so it might make more sense just to buy a new light 😉

@@pandaengineering yeah I know its cheap but I got it long time before by somebody so I dont want to trow it away.

Then keep it but get a new one and use the working one and keep your older one

It runs steadily at about 0.6A so in my case with old batteries(probably less then 3Ah now) it lasts only for up to 4 hours. Nest Hub is very power hungry.

I was able to make them smart by asking an wifi connected ir blaster for 4$

If you mean on the old joystick side with Game Port, the only good way to well understand how it's connected is to "ring" through (check using the continuity function on the electric meter) and write down what each pin on the connector is connected to what cable on the board. Then you can figure out the function on each pin (you can easily find Game Port pinout on Wikipedia). This should make it easier to understand how they made your controller because in practice Game Port can't be really nothing more than 2 analogue sticks + 4 buttons.