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Hi Theo. Sorry for the delay, it's a while since I made this video and I had to review it. I see I described modifications I have made to both the rear fog lamps and the front. Is it the front or the rear fogs that are a problem?

Hi Rick, sorry, I should have clarified. It's regarding the front fog lights being used as daytime running lights. I have figured out that my 2006 XK8 (manufactured 01/2005) has the relay box configured like the 96-03 models as per your video, which means I put the diode between the fog lights and main beam, which explains why the fog lights stay on. However, when I put the diode between the dip beam and fog lights, the fog lights 'blink'. They do turn off when the dip beams are on. The 'blinking' is strange though...any ideas? Thanks so much.

Hi Alan. Sorry for the delay in responding. It’s a while since I built my touch to pass module and made the video, so I had to re-watch it to refresh my memory. It takes very little modification to these circuits for the manufacturer to change them to delay off, which is what is needed for this module, to delay on, which is what I think you have bought in error. For example, I found a module on eBay (put “326019705365” in the search box to find it too) and a device that looks just like those I used comes up but the description talks of “…delay turn on”, instead of delay turn off. It seems the exact module I used is now hard to come by but I did find one that looks a little different but that should work. Find it by putting “262662293474” in the eBay search box. Sorry for the bad news that you may have wasted money on the wrong item, but at least these things don’t cost a fortune.

@@richardastley2517 Thank you Richard. Once I had seen the description of the timer you suggest, I found it on UK eBay and have ordered two from China. Much obliged for getting back to me, PLUS I get to practice my atrocious soldering as well.

Dale. My video covers the X100. The 2007 is an X150 and I’m sorry I’m unable to advise on this model.

Hi Craig. Thanks for the kind comments. I think someone else pointed out that my information regarding the positioning of the cruise control button was incorrect, at least for some territories. I'm sorry if this cause d confusion. Nevertheless, the cause and solution are the same and I recommend using the optocoupler; after thousands of miles of use it has served me very well.

Hi Richard Sorry to bother you but I'm confused after changing my headlights to led thery worked perfectly. I then ordered the led bulbs to replace map,license, turn signals and trunk. I got the 2825 bulbs but when took the old halegon out the 2825s were not even close to fitting. The head would not fit the plastic covering and and the head was so long even if it would fit the hole in the covering it would extend too far too fit the socket into the covering. I could not even jury rig by making the hole in the covering larger. The difference is about 1/4 inch larger. Are their other head sizes of 2825 bulbs@@richardastley2517

@@craigoliver4631 Hi Craig. In a different video call Jaguar XK8 Lighting Modifications I think I recommend the T10 LED bulb to replace most 2825 bulbs..

Hi Margaret. That's covered in pages 17-25 of the PDF document at: www.rastley.com/XK-brake-switch.pdf. There's also a clickable link in the description under the video. Rick

So sorry I missed this. No I didn't. I first new anything about it when I saw it in the message center. I stopped and my passenger looked at the brake lights and reported they were working normally.

Thanks Balogh. I made the video some time ago and, unfortunately, I'm not sure if the Insta-Lube system is available anymore. If it's not, I hope there is a similar system available from elsewhere.

@@richardastley2517 Actually, i am planning a prelube system with an electric oil pump.

Hi Ben. I looked into changing the microswitches but, while I found some that appeared similar, I couldn't be sure that any of them would work. There were just too many mechanical and electrical variables to be certain any would be an easy substitute. I use cruise control a lot and have now covered thousands of mile using the opto-coupler solution, so far without the slightest problem. Of course, I'm relying on the remaining good switch, so if that fails, I might be looking at a microswitch swap-out again! I had to change a microswitch that interacts with the the door mechanism to lower the glass a tad so the door can open below the convertible top. Is that the one you found a substitute for? If so, please share what switch you found and where you got it. I seem to remember paying a fortune for the Jaguar part. The original failed because of water ingress and there's still a chance that the one on the passenger door may soon fail too.

@@richardastley2517 can you post links to the ones that you think would work and I’ll test them out? And I did just replace the micro switch in the door and it works for the past year or two but I was looking on the form and saw a guy found them and ordered them. Can’t remember the site or the form page tho. Just search for micro switch door 2005 Jaguar xk8 and i eventually found it

@@benschroeder1161 Ben, the microswitch I considered can be found by searching for KW11-3Z-2 on Amazon, eBay or elsewhere. It looks about the right size with similar hole locations and lever action. Having 3 terminals, (Common, NC and NO) it can be wired one way for the Brake ON/Off switch and the other way for the Cruise Control Cancel function. I'll be interested to know if it really is a good substitute for the original.

@@richardastley2517 I will try that out and let you know. Did you find the door switch? I can look again and see where I bought it

@@richardastley2517 also I found 2 pin and 3 pin. Which do you think would be best? I can’t tell in the video how many wires there are

Thanks, glad you found the video useful. There are 4 lamps per side that have bulb failure sensing and that require resistors in order to fool the vehicle electronics into thinking incandescent lamps are installed when in fact LEDs have replaced them. They are the 2 tail lamps, which can share a single resistor, the turn signal and the stop lamp. The back-up and fog lamp have no lamp failure sensing and thus don’t need resistors Adding resistors presents 2 problems Finding space and dissipating the heat. Of the lamps that require a resistor I chose only to replace the turn signal with an LED because I like the modern instant-on look (vanity I know) and the fact that the resistor doesn’t dissipate as much power as would normally be necessary when replacing a 21W bulb. That’s because the lamp is not used continuously and when actually flashing is off half the time. Your 3D printed cover sounds great from the space point of view but I hope you can use materials that can both firmly secure the resistors and get rid of and withstand the heat. The resistor for the two tail lamps will dissipate power continuously at night and a long stop at a red light, with the brake on, can mean that the stop lamps will have enough time to heat considerably. You may have to do some experiments to determine how hot they get Good luck, and if you succeed, perhaps you can share your results and software here so that others can benefit too.

@@richardastley2517 thanks for the reply. Will give some additional thought and consideration . And will share with everyone.

If you have any questions that you want to ask directly, you can see my email by clicking on my name and then the About button. Thinking about it some more, a larger shell around the rear lights that contains an aluminum plate on which to mount and heat sink the resistors would probably work well.

@@richardastley2517 great idea. The housing could be bigger and square on the inside for a prefab heatsink as the loss of trunk space would be worth the lighting performance in my mind.

Ben, I'm sorry that I only learned of the reintroduction of the master cruise control switch after posting the video. I don't have access to the to the circuit diagram for XKs post 2004.5 so I can't be 100% sure that the 1999 - 2002 circuit was re-used. It would make sense that it would be as there was nothing fundamentally bad about it and it would have been the least costly route for Jaguar to take, given that the circuit was proven and tested. I'd use the 1999 - 2002 instructions unless you have adaptive cruise control, in which case the circuit changes would have been more radical.

@@richardastley2517 I don’t think I have adaptive cruise control. I just know I have the sport mode button and the master switch for cruise control. I’ll try it and see what happens

Sorry Jin, I am unable to help. Maybe a company that specializes in Jaguar parts can help.

Hey KTRB. Thanks so much for the encouraging feedback.

Thanks Damian. I'm not nearly as prolific as you I'm afraid and I don't suppose that at any one time this issue is affecting many cars. However, I think it is a wear problem that will eventually be seen on most XK8/Rs as they age in miles and years, and I just wanted to have a diagnosis and solution hanging out there ready.

Thanks Dean. Your encouraging feedback is much appreciated.

Hi Dan. Sorry for the late response but I am not sure I can help you. You seem to have checked everything. Looking at the circuit, all the illumination for the major instrument cluster goes through a dimmer module, located it seems, according to the manual, by the fascia / adjacent to righthand side fuse box. The connector is a 12-way black and may be worth checking. Sorry I could not be of more help.

@@richardastley2517 Thank U Richard anyway! The troouble is about motherboard where I have faill.

Hi Pedro. When changing the instrument lamps I did disconnect the battery, but only after ensuring that I had moved the steering wheel as low as it would go. The LEDs have integral diodes so don't need additional ones.

Of the bulbs shown about 9 minutes into the video I used the 9 mm bulb shown at bottom right in all but one position. It needed to be shaved by 0.25 mm (that's 10 thousands of an inch) around the diameter because the hole in the back of the panel is 8.5mm. For the high beam I used the blue lamp (top right), but have since swapped it back for the original bulb because I found all the LEDs too bright for that lamp position when driving at night, when of course high beam is used. I use high beam for such a small proportion of my driving I regard the risk of an original filament going out as minimal.

Hi Jonathan. I have read your message a few times and tried to think of what might be wrong, after all, as you said, this should be an easy one; a no brainer. The trunk lamps and foot-well maps share the same power source as the glove box lamp, so if they’re working there is power. If you take a while fitting the bulb then that power source will shut-off so as to conserve battery in the event the glove box is left open. Make sure you close and lock the doors then reopen and check if the lamp works. Otherwise I can only think that the LED bulbs you bought are a bad batch with either mechanical issues preventing them making good contact or an electrical problem such as the diodes being reversed so that they won’t work on a negative ground car.

@@richardastley2517 Thanks for your reply Richard.....Indeed the footwell and trunk lamps are working so there is power.........I Only tried 3 of the 10 so i will try the rest to ascertain if it is indeed a bad batch. I have used T10's for the map reading lights and that's a transformation in itself with crisp white light where only yellow came out before :-) I am plucking up the courage to get into the instrument cluster T10's and T5's and i now have the T5's in Red White and Blue and will set up a test day using your technique and a sharpie to get the polarity right before i start. I want to replace the trunk and footwell lamps with LED's and although i see the 6smd one sided LED i don't have the specification of the replacement and can't find "the right one" on Ebay. Since mine is an XKR coupe I also have a rear seat courtesy light so i want to change that too. If i have success on the Instrument cluster i am next going for the center console as when driving at night with the radio off the whole area is dark......if something is switched on like the AC on Auto i can just see the red dots and not a lot else. When the CD/AM/FM radio is off that panel is dark. The steering wheel is dark and both door window lifter control panels are dark (or so dim as they may as well be dark) I have tried the technique in the video from ToTheGarage with John in turning the lights on and then adjusting the dimmer to max brightness so they are as bright as they can be but the light emitted is next to useless. If i could send you an Email i can show you the photo's i've taken of the current situation.

@@jonince1960 Jonathan: I just added a forwarding email address to my profile. I think you you should now be able to click on my Name > Profile>About>View Email Address

What I termed a "controller" has a timing function in it. It's a while since I installed mine and at that time I couldn't have been happier with the support I got at sales@autoenginelube.com . I also found that there was more than enough components for almost any installation. Hope you're able to sort it out and that things haven't changed with the company's support.

@@richardastley2517 Have tried to contact company with little or no response, at lease in a timely manner. As of now, I'm working with another who has had a kit installed for several years, long distance. Ordered and installed a timer/controller and will pickup connections for Schrader valve next. No disrespect to you at all. Your kit had all the necessary parts and was a breeze to install and works as advertised. I'm sure once I get all the other parts mine will also. BTW thanks for posting. Your video has helped out a lot, especially with wiring.

Hi Luke. Thanks for the feedback. I'll have to go back and look at what I said in the video but I'm not sure I disagree with you. See my other video "XK8 Fog- DRL LED Conversion" ua-cam.com/video/OM1VM-tWL6Q/v-deo.html. As standard the XK8 Body processor module is programmed: To switch off front fog lights when high beam is selected To allow fog lights with side lights. To allow fog lights with low beams, and while, like you, I think that's counter productive, I don't think it's my place in this instructive video to change the original Jaguar policy. In the "XK8 Fog- DRL LED Conversion" video, the user can choose, or not, to use a diode to initiate the fog-lights with ignition and thus operates them as DRLs. The preferred method show is to wire the ground through the low beam filaments, which switches them off as soon as the low beams are operated (again, they are anyway disabled by the body processor from working with high beam). However, that can be over ridden by using the front fog lamp switch. Also, if users choose, they may be wired so that the DRL fog lamps continue to operate with low beams. In other words, I hope I haven't forced by thinking on the way DRLs and fog lamps should work, but rather let people choose for themselves.

Heat sinking, at especially in the all important immediate vicinity of the chip, isn't usually in control of the end user. See my video concerning LED Fog lamps here I reduce power input to proportionally control heat output, without, in the case of the voltage controlled LEDs, similarly reducing light output.

Thanks. The LED versions I'm using have an overall length of 36 mm and a distance between end caps of 18.5 mm.

No. So called CANBUS error free LEDs won't negate the need for ballast resistors on the XK8 because on this car the lamp outage data is not carried on the CANBUs system

Thanks for the feedback, and I agree, I could have shortened the whole video. I post videos simply to share any knowledge I gain and certainly not for any financial gain. I don't sell anything on eBay and have no connection at all with any vendors I recommend.