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the tilt lock (the silver oval shaped lock) on the opposite side to the large click stop dial will lock the tilt position off. You may want to discuss this with the place of purchase

Its made to last and my experience in using a full range of Benro gear over the years has not seen any gear fail on me so far. the tension is very lock locked or unlocked but im sure if you found the sweet spot that it will give some tension or drag but this is where if you need fine tune control of such features you will be best using a dedicated video head with multiple click stops. This tripod is very much made for compact travel and does its job very well for that.

@@peterbustin2683 believe it or not but winter in Melbourne Australia is cold!! You lose most of your body heat through your head and also pays to be sun smart also. Nothing worse than being cold on a shoot!

Hello Nick, Yes you can. There are dedicated Tortoise short columns available here. As with the tripods you can also save 10% using the code PC10 on the website in the following linkl who are the Australian distributors for Benro if you are in Australia www.maxxum.com.au/benro-tortoise-short-centre-column-0

Thank you Heather

All are great options. The tallest Rhino legs have the removable leg as a monopod which is super handy vs the Mark 3 which has the long and short center column. Personally id get the Rhino myself

if you want hight over anything then the mach 3 for sure

Thank you and I hope to show you around Madagascar and Mashatu this Nov

Discount was only for 12 months and this is a brand that never discount. There is simply no better product out there and they have some new products this year well worth checking out!!!!

@@Jaycollierphotograph The video is only 8 months old though 🙈

It balances really well and you will be best using a cable release in any case shooting the moon with long lenses. You can tighten the locks to control how fluid the mechanism runs

Thanks for taking the time in your busy day to leave a comment about your taste in music on a tripod review. Your medal for winning the internet will be in the mail.

You would need to order the head and legs separately Where are you based?

@@Jaycollierphotograph Turkey. I couldn't find this combination on UA-cam. I want to use Rhino with GX35 and S4 Pro heads. Can i use it without any problem or should i buy Tortoise kit?

@@mordavian I’d order the kit and the extra head also as I use different heads for different shoots and a compact ball head always come in handy a lot of the time

@@Jaycollierphotograph I am not sure about the compatibility of S4pro with Rhino series. There is no video on UA-cam. Maybe i should buy Tortoise C35 and connect both heads easily but this one will have some height issues.

@@mordavian really depends on the gear your putting onto it. I find the rhino great for mirrorless set ups but for longer lenses and fast adjustment I’d reach for dedicated video tripod legs with more weight and stability and a larger leveling base built into the legs if I was shooting video full time. Rhino is perfect for travel and packing light and certainly works very well for most uses.

not in this range but you can buy the smaller Benro ball head which does separately

you are welcome. which tripod are you thinking suits your needs most?

I’d say Nina’s it’s more a fluid feel than the free rolling bearing. It works on friction like most fluid heads so can’t imagine it uses bearings

See my replies below to another comment where I outline the reasons why it either on terrain that slopes particularly in portrait orientation to get level quickly. Often if your ball head is tilted over on a slope you can’t tilt far enough and where the ball head gives the extra distance to level quickly without the need to constantly adjust the tripod legs. Working in sand and snow it’s much faster and in my experience saves loads of frustration. There is a huge difference in my workflow with and without using the leveling base

The idea is to level the entire base which will keep the entire ball head level so when panning it remains level. I level the base and the ball head so if you then unlock the panning section its 100% level. I find when moving a lot or shooting in snow or sand that i can can bury the legs hard into the surface and level off the entire set up very quickly

Another point i should also mention is if you are tilted over in portrait orientation, if the legs are not level or shooting on a slopping ground, you sometime cant get enough movement in a ball head to get level or stay level. By levelling the base first you then get the entire ball head level and make use of the full range of movement/adjustment without needing to ever need to adjust the legs. The other fact is for video where I use video heads that dont have a tilt adjustment and you must use the levelling base. Cheers, Jay

cheers Simon and well be stepping things up in the Okavango and Mala Mala this year. Did you find the two in jokes hidden in the video?

@@thephotographyworkshopco4520 Is the Pope Catholic? Looking forward to this year.

You are welcome Troy. Which tripod are you steering towards?

You wont regret it, its amazing

100% yes and were overdue for heading out on a shoot!!! lets catch up soon!

That's great to hear! Glad you found the video interesting enough to watch, Hopefully we can offer you some great insight and tips in the future videos

No, unfortunately my feet weren't hairy enough...I'll be sure to try out next month when I'm exploring Mordor.

It's slightly shorter in duration than a full second. It's where the camera switches from fractions of seconds eg. 1/4th to 0"3 (3 tenths of a second) through to 0"8 (8 tenths of a second) then 1" One full second. You will see it written out on your camera as this (1/5,1/4, 0"3, 0"4, 0"5, 0"6, 0"8, 1") The " Mark represents seconds.

It has so many amazing locations worth exploring.

The choice for this specific ISO is to best represent the settings for this demonstration. I will sometimes use 320 ISO for landscape images naturally in hte field. There is no rule to always use 100 ISO. I use what I need to give me the look and feel I want to achieve depending on the conditions.

Thank you for the response Mark. Great pick up, I should have mentioned that when exposures are too long beyond the native settings of the camera I will use a smart phone app to calculate the stops of light. In this scenario I can adjust my settings 6 stops by reducing my shutter speed to a longer exposure. Simply by scrolling my shutter wheel until I have the correct exposure inmy viewfinder. I do this by physically counting the clicks of the scroll wheel, or this can be done visually with the histogram. If I think it will go beyond 30" (seconds) I will use the Haida App or LE (Long Exposure) Calculator app. Great Question.

Great question. Norfolk is a stunning island! When focusing I generally focus on the subject I want people to be drawn to. In this case the waterfall itself. If it’s a landscape I’ll focus a third of the way into the scene to give me the best depth of field for the scene.

@@scottstramyk thank you. Much appreciated

Thanks for your comment, It's no about overcomplicating it. Using filters is the only way to reduce your shutter speed to create long exposure photos in certain/ really bright conditions and other circumstances. This cant be done in post production. You aren't physically able to get a long exposure. Its also about getting it right in camera without introducing noise in the file by underexposing too far to protect the highlights. Yes software has come so far in offering photographers the ability to enhance their images in post production, I personally prefer to capture it all in one image to reduce my editing time and continue getting out into nature. There are ways to simulate the visual representation of polariser effect in LR you just aren't able to reduce or add reflections to the photos. This is a very important filter to use when in rainforests and waterfalls as it dramatically affects the over all look to the images.

Long exposure is much easier in camera

@@scottstramyk The less you have to do to a photo file in post, the cleaner it is in my opinion. Everything looks better from colors to micro contrast, detail, etc. Same with upscaling. Don't get me wrong, AI has come a long way but, once you get past a certain print size, your better off moving to a larger format sensor. = In camera!

@@thomastuorto9929 Exactly why I create videos like this to show how to capture it all in camera without the need to do extensive work in post production. Who wants to spend their days stuck behind a computer when you could be outside creating more content or being out in the elements enjoying nature!

Thank you Jerry for your comment! I'm glad you got some great insight to long exposure photography.