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1000 thousand

I bet almost nobody in the history of Morris Minors ever saw what you did when they did their "big reveal"! Finding one that has lived in California since 1983, missing out on forty UK winters of salt covered, soaking wet roads and 300 days a year below the dewpoint, means you might have the most completely original UK registered car in existence!

Hi, I got a C39 exactly like yours that has that reccess. The C40 doesn´t. As a tip, to put the new brushes, you can slide the coil spring tip out the place and that way you can insert the brushes softly and mount the cover easly to place. Than you just have to put the springs back to place so the bushes make the desired contact.

I did see how you removed the door and and latch assembly. Curious on how to remove the small latch lock lever.

Hi there ..I got a 86 Graduate..thanks for the video,very informative,,good work👍👍

I was once told that the reason that metric bolts turn up on Morries is because of post war reparations, parts made in Germany. Just be careful not to mix and match when you reassemble.

Done very many of thesee when I wore a younger man's clothes. You do not need to remove the push rod, clevis pin etc, you can remove the master Cyl and service it from behind once the brake tubes are released. All the comments about the cylinder retaining bolts are true- I have the manufacturer's manual which advises to remove the torsion bar! Don't. It's spring steel you can force it without damage as per the comments above. One thing which is really relevant here in NZ: You don't want to ever do it again, so send the cylinder to an engineering firm which specialises in re-sleeving them in stainless steel. Do that, and it's the last time you need to do it. Happy Motoring.

a great magazine

So happy to hear you are enjoying Gleam! Grea job!

Looking great so far!

Interesting project even more so because of the wood element, is that Ash ?.

A great walk through, thank you!

Hi. I feel an obligation to write to share with you a tremendous gratitude for this excellent tutorial. Great clarity and detail. Camera work is also excellent. My Alfa caught fire last week and the primary damage was to this specific area of the car. Your video has given me the confidence to begin work. Thanks.

Very helpful, thank you.

You'd be unlikely to find a cleaner looking inside chassis than that in the UK. All pretty much rusted out.

MOSS catalogue pdf here: www.moss-europe.co.uk/media/pdf/MMCAT2022.pdf

Lovely old thing

Always wondered if the wood on a mini was structural.

amazing

Hi there , that is so nice of course I’m a bit biased as we own a teal blue on that my father built and sprayed 20 years ago and it’s still looking good. ATB with the build up. 👍

pity u hide so much under carpet etc eh

what supplier did you use for the throttle body coupling? The one I bought from classic alfa is a little too large, just like the one you mentioned. Would like to find the exact replica if I could

I am finding your work really useful thank you. I brought a Travller as a "work in progress" and so I never got to pull it apart so putting together is a nightmare as the books just say "put it back together the same way you pulled it apart...." and "be careful pulling it apart".... I will be coming back many times after swearing at the car as the wood on my car is not drilled because the wood was commissioned out of macrocarpa and so the person who made the frame ddi not make any of the needed releif cuts. As I know your next question is what is Macrocapa, it has a deap rich golden colour and is near bomb proof in strength and rot resistance. But it is loved by the wood lice if damp....Think of a dark Oaken colour with golden and red highlights when varneshed, that's macrocarpa without varnish.

etch primer for aluminium

thank you!!

So elegant! Makes todays RR’s look overblown and hideous! They’ve lost the plot!

good videos

Gas tank from a standard Mini? Or supplemental?

nice vehicle.

Exquisite!

What size socket takes the bolts out put of the seat to floor

Super helpful video- thanks 🙏

Superb explanation. Many thanks.

Thanks a lot. Very helpful.

Thank you! This helped a lot : )

Is the Oxyclean the same as soda crystals ? Thanks for the video. Colin UK 🇬🇧

ua-cam.com/video/eC4yDwOh-U8/v-deo.html

Really helpful description, thank you

I find a grinder through torsion bar cut heads off bolts then Chap out pin punch getting the transmission cover off is hell spent 2 hours grinding brass heads off

You covered many good points. I think that if you wanted this to last, and to not immediately burn the brushes/commutator, the commutator should have been turned flat to eliminate the ridges and rough surface (about 8:15). At 9:30 they are still visible. The brushes should also be "bedded in" before asking them to carry full current. See the "Lucas Manual A6" for great instructions. Did you check the front bearing for play and/or roughness? The original bearing has no seals, but a replacement is a VERY standard 6202-2RS (15x35x11mm thick) double-sealed - widely available and inexpensive. My C40 is on my 1957 Alfa Romeo Spider - like you, still having fun at our ages!

A lot of people call a bolt / nut 'Whitworth' when in fact they are BSF. Most spanners (wrenches) and sockets post 1960 are marked with both Whitworth and BSF sizes on each tool. Basically the threads are different and the 'size' refers to the shank size but the heads are the same. The tools will be marked for example 'W' and 'BS'. For instance, a spanner marked 5/16”BS (for BSF) will generally be marked 1/4”W (for Whitworth) as well No Whitworth sizes were used on Minors they were all BSF or BA. The exception being the engines post the first side valvers which were all UNF / UNC which are familiar in the USA.

Very clear explanation and demonstration. Thanks a lot.Colin UK 🇬🇧

I just found your excellent channel albeit a year late. Forgive me! I recently started a restoration or a 1965 Minor 1000 2 door saloon so your efforts are really saving me some time. Thank you. Just as an aside: That registration number (which in the UK stays with the car throughout its life even if a personalised number is used) is made up of 3 parts - the last letter identifies the year it was first registered and 'J' is 1970 so near the end of production, the second two letters are an area identifier and 'LF' was North West London which leaves 'G 429' as the actual car identifier. We Brits do like a bit of complication but it works!

Very helpful and thanks a lot. Colin UK 🇬🇧

Once again, a very helpful video full of useful tips. Thanks very much, Colin UK 🇬🇧

Thanks very much for the video. Much appreciated. I'm looking forward to getting my first moggie this coming week. Best regards. Colin UK 🇬🇧

Very helpful, thanks a lot. You're a living Haynes manual !

Very interesting and thanks a lot for the video. I'm looking forward to buying a minor in the next few months and this information is valuable. Colin UK 🇬🇧

Once again, a really helpful video. Thanks a lot, Colin UK 🇬🇧

That was extremely helpful. I'm saving up for a Morris minor and hope to get a traveller. Much appreciated and thanks a lot. Colin UK 🇬🇧