Відео

Nah. I always have the lights on. Wanted to film realistic conditions

Right is oled

Glad to help, great day to you as well :)

My path from Islam to Atheism medium.com/@ali.mizan_76460/my-path-from-islam-to-atheism-ca0161d6df37

​@@amizan8653I read the first paragraph and didn't need to read more,why? Because Muslim men are allowed to marry non-Muslim women.

@@abdullahsohail7029 people have all kinds of interpretations of Islam. There’s even followers of Islam that believe that a woman shouldn’t enjoy sexual pleasure and so they have female babies clitoris cut out at birth. Who are you to say what version of Islam is correct or not? it’s being translated from a book written over 1000 years ago in Arabic. Anyways, Islam and every other religion is just a damn delusion and if you want to believe the delusion, so be it. i’m happy to be free from the idiocy. But I do feel sad for those that are stuck in Islamic countries and have to hide the fact that they are exMuslim because Muslims tend to violently retaliate against exMuslims. And I feel sorry for people who are victims of Islam, such as animals that have their throat slit for eid al adhar, and women who have to deal with islamic sexism.

Hey sorry, didn’t see your comment till now. Basically on the version one of the ceramic recaps, they used ceramic stems instead of plastic stems. The thing about ceramic is that it’s an extremely hard material with very little tolerance in comparison to plastic. So some key cap stems are a little too thick for the ceramic. I kind of forced the ceramic keycaps on my gateron CJ switches. I think what happened is that the ceramic Tc scratched off some plastic shavings which ended up inside of the switch making it all scratchy. The V2 version of the keycaps however he’s plastic stems and so that shouldn’t be an issue any longer

@@amizan8653 oh I see.. thanks. Btw have you used KTT Kang whites? Mine got ving leaf ping even after lubing. What should I do?

@@BigDomDaddy that’s tough man, I’m not sure. Are you sure it’s from the leaf and not the spring? I would open up a switch and lube the top and the bottom of the spring. Then reassemble the switch and see if there’s any pinging. If there still is, you can experiment with gradually adding more lube to the leaf. Other than that… I have no idea. I would also use a really thick lube like krytox 205 g0

If you search for “japanese coral sea keycaps” you should be able to find it

ok but what are the specs? Only oem caps or something else? I found something on amazon but i dont wanna spend 40 bucks for nothing u know :) @@amizan8653

Might be the alu plate. Default is steel, and it's very hefty, reducing ping. I like it tho, it's different from my tiger lite with lubed & spring swapped boba u4t.

I'd have no idea how to fix that without desoldering the switches and replacing them.

Nothing really, that's the last you see of him in the game. Although, after this point, you can actually buy his armor for a ridiculous price off this one merchant. Maybe it means Biorr decided to retire fighting.

Ty. This is my favorite keyboard now. And for just $119. Pretty damn happy with it.

So I ended up not using the shims Because I ended up using another set of stabilizers. I ended up using the owlstabs by owlabs. There's nothing wrong with the cherry stabs, You can pretty much make sure that they sound good by clipping the legs, and doing the holy mod, and I guess using the stabilizer shims provided. I just had some really good luck with the owlstabs in the past with very little work, so I used them. Let me go find you a clip of someone putting the keyboard together with the shims

@@amizan8653 Oh alright, I bought tx stabs but it's 1.6m so I think I might need to use shims

Interesting... Not even KBD fans used the shims in their instructional video. I also looked up Alexotos steam where he builds and he also doesn't use them. I guess the shims are for if you're using another stabilizer that is built for thicker pcb. Anyways, here's a quick build video from kbdfans if you're interested: ua-cam.com/video/i55MEU1zlUQ/v-deo.html

@@amizan8653 oh ok, also what's your favorite config for this board? Like what mods did you use etc?

@@mtsslippy1015 me personally, I used owlstabs lubed with krytox 205 g0 on the housing and permatex on the wires. But... TX stabs seem better in my opinion. I think you can use the same lubes and it would sound amazing. If you put in the TX stabs and screw them in and they seem to be a bit wobbly or they seem rattley, you can put the shims in between the pcb and bottom of the stab. This will artificially increase the thickness of the pcb so that the stabs are in tighter. But only do this if you need to. I didn't use the plate foam or case foam. I only used the pcb foam. And I put 1 layer of masking tape, and them the KBD fans provided one so that there were 2 layers total. And the switches are boba u4ts with an extremely light amount of krytox 205 g0... When I say extremely light, I mean that when I dipped the paintbrush in,I wiped the paint brush on the edge of the krytox container so that there was hardly any lube left on the brush before application. That's pretty much it. I'll say that putting in switches when there's no plate foam is hard because of how flexible the plate and pcb are. But... I love how flexible it is. So that's my personal preference Edit: I also put 60g springs in my switches, but it made like almost no difference at all. I just did it cause I had em lying around.

Honestly it didn't really make much of a difference at all lol: It's a very very tiny difference. I did it because I had a bunch of unused cherry MX silent reds that I had lying around from a fnatic mini steak that I desoldered and replaced with another switch. I decided I might as well use the springs from there since I generally hate the mushy feeling of silent switches

@@amizan8653 ohh gotcha! I quite literally will have the same setup as you haha. Minus the 60g springs.

@@blueb_oy hell yeah dude, enjoy your keeb 🙂

Yeah the stabilizers on this keyboard are pretty horrible. You absolutely have to holee mod.

I've seen other UA-camrs like keybored managed to make it sound good with the stock stabilizers. It just requires you to clip the legs and lube them properly. In addition... Maybe you have to rebalance the wires. Or maybe you'd have to holee mod. I'm not sure. I just know that I used owlstabs for my keycron Q3 and it required nothing else other than lube. Absolutely no other work besides that. And so that's why I used owlstabs here. But, I do have ticking on the left side of my space bar. Maybe next time I'll try TX stabs because those apparently look like the ones that tick the least.

@@amizan8653 alright, I've gotten some practice tuning stabilizers from my pervious boards so I'm confident I can make them good. thanks for the advise and quick reply though.

@@luispadilla2842 anytime man, enjoy your keyboard!

Yeap. Btw, I don't know that region you're in, but if you're in the US, You can get a tiger80 lite from divinikey, and use code KEYBORED for 5% off. Orders over $100 have free shipping too. I didn't realize divinikey was going to sell the board... I paid $40 for shipping from China to USA lol

@@amizan8653 Oh, thanks for that info. Nice deal! I'm from Philippines btw. I already ordered one from the main KBDFANS site, and it's in transit now. Hoping to get the Transparent Blue this week.

@@andrewcatubig9239 awesome, I hope you love yours as much as I do

I can sell some yeah if you want. I have way more than I need. I have 50 mil and 80 mil kilmat. And I have 1.5 mm pe foam. I'll still the material proportional to cost, + shipping

They are 3 pin. You can see the board opened up here: www.techpowerup.com/review/fnatic-gear-ministreak-keyboard/4.html

well, you can take out the butyl if it doesn't work for you: you don't actually have to peel off the adhesive & stick it onto the board. I thought you had to do so, but it's not necessary at all. Keybored demonstrates this with the keychron Q2: he puts in 50 mil butyl sound deadener in the Q2 with the aluminum side facing down, and the adhesive side facing up, with paper still on the adhesive. Although, this is a plastic keyboard, so I don't think that butyl sound deadner makes *that* much of a difference. Still, try it out if you're curious, you might like it more.

Unfortunately this is not a hot Swappable keyboard. And desoldering is too much work and effort to be worth it. I'm post general info on how to make your board sound better without desoldering If you're trying to do the minimal amount of work: 1) unscrew & open up they keyboard, and stuff some packing foam into the case. If that's good enough for you, excellent, move on. Also, you can use other material besides packing foam: you could use kitchen shelf liner, silicone pour over (probably the most effective), polyfill... But packing foam (which is pe foam) is the cheapest and works really well, and you probably have it lying around somewhere. Here's a webpage showing it being taken apart: www.techpowerup.com/review/fnatic-gear-ministreak-keyboard/4.html 2) since you already have the case open, might as well do the tempest tape mod: ua-cam.com/video/g7-syoxeIBQ/v-deo.html 3) If that doesn't sound good enough for you: you can lube the switches without desoldering. Make sure you hit the spring. A video on how to do this: ua-cam.com/video/IUvwuyKbWlc/v-deo.html 4) Lastly, if it's the stabilizers rattle that causes the noise you dislike, you can buy a syringe and inject some into the stabilizers: Watch this video from 9:30 to 10:30 ua-cam.com/video/usNx1_d0HbQ/v-deo.html Alexotos also did a video: ua-cam.com/video/nuntwYJpSUY/v-deo.html Let me know if any of this was helpful! If you lube the switches, definitely use krytox 205 g0. But for the stabilizers, you don't need to use krytox, you can use permatex dielectric grease which is way cheaper. But don't use dielectric grease for the switches! Here's all the stuff you can buy related to all my suggestions: You can buy a syringe for lubing stabilizers here: www.amazon.com/dp/B07413XTNR Jewelry holder & paint brush from this kit, for lubing stabs (the stem holder is optional and helps lube stabs. The paint brush is required for lubbing switches) smile.amazon.com/dp/B08JLJZ95Z Krytox 205g0 from almost any custom keyboard vendor, and also ebay and Amazon. Here it is from prevail. You will need this for lubing switches. You *could* use this for stabilizers, but I recommend dielectric grease for that. prevailkeyco.com/collections/best-sellers/products/krytox-gpl-205-grade-0?variant=38904923455639 Dielectric grease for the stabilizers if you want to conserve that very expensive krytox (I recommend it) and lube stabilizers: smile.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2 Masking tape for tape mod: smile.amazon.com/dp/B000BPILS2

Nope. It's a prebuilt that I desoldered and resoldered. I basically replaced the cherry MX silent reds with lubricated gateron clears

Thanks! It sounds better now since I derattled my stabilizers. It makes me happy that I can make a budget keyboard sounds like this

Thanks! I made it better since then by holee modding the stabs. Holee mod ftw

I actually ended up not liking them... They're so light that just letting my fingers rest on the keycaps caused the keys to accuate. I had to type without ever resting my fingers completely on the caps, and the lightness made it very easy to accidentally accuate neighboring keys from an off center keypress.

yeap, massively. The higher the profile, the deeper the sound. the lower the profile, the "clackier" the sound. Here's a video from squashy boy: ua-cam.com/video/AqiSaOFbl_Q/v-deo.html

Thanks! You need a soldering iron and a good solder sucker. If you don't have those, getting those would cost around $100. There are some really cheap soldering irons out there, but I can't speak for their quality, nor will my operating tips work well for the cheaper ones. I might have recorded a video of me desoldering and soldering. If you want we can hop on a discord call if you're open to getting soldering equipment and learning how to solder.

@@amizan8653 Thanks man. Fortunately I learned soldering in school and I do have good equipment. I was in talk with the fnatic support but they denied that there is any possibility of removing the switches which is straight up telling from your mod. I would be happy for any video footage that helps me for the dismantling process.

​@@k1ngBarne Sorry for the stupidly long delay in replying to you. I was digging through all the footage I recorded of modding my fnatic ministreak. I *did* take some footage of me desoldering a switch, but I did it in a really dumb time inefficient way. I don't have any good footage to show you. If you are still interested though, I'll go and write down some instructions for desoldering keyboard switches in general. Now, before you go and look into desoldering & soldering, I will say that all the equipment you have to get is pretty expensive, and it would actually be cheaper to just get a hot swap mechanical keyboard rather than getting all the desoldering + soldering equipment. For example, you can get an epomaker gk87 keyboard for like $85. But, if you want to go down that rabbit hole of desoldering + soldering, then keep reading. If you have the money to splurge, then this tool right here makes desoldering easy. www.amazon.com/dp/B07BFVFMS9/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_GM5CYQC192E3FJ8VZYCW It is however, stupid expensive at $245. I ended up not getting it. Here’s what I ended up doing, for both desoldering and soldering. I got myself the following items: The only solder sucker that you should ever consider getting: www.amazon.com/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_AQ6PQ56RT63JKYCVK9D1 a high quality soldering iron: www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDTO6X7/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_1NB3Y09E2W3DYMAAB70R?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 some leaded solder with some solder flux in the core: www.amazon.com/dp/B00DE2QVIG/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_E86B2S1RESVW44QEX5FR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 A smoke fan (or you can solder outdoors if you choose): www.amazon.com/dp/B07VWDN29F/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_1DYKCM8M69K479H6KNNA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 A heat resistant silicone mat to serve as a workstation while you’re soldering / desoldering www.amazon.com/dp/B07DGVJ17H/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_S7GQ1207AMB1CG6NS06N?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 A stand to hold your hot soldering iron + wipe off excess solder www.amazon.com/dp/B00LQG47V0/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_3BQ7PG437BTKK6B10HCJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Some safety goggles www.amazon.com/dp/B07VF3C2CW/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_1FGS1CVGV8NQFFDKSW3J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I also recommend going to some local store and getting yourself some latex gloves. They did stop me from burning myself a few times as I was pretty new to soldering when I was desoldering and soldering my fnatic ministreak. Now, you might notice that there’s 2 types of solder, leaded solder and lead free solder. I was initially inclined to go and get lead free solder since it’s better for the environment, and you’re less likely to poison yourself with lead. But, lead free solder is terrible to work with: you have to crank up your soldering iron to a much higher temperature, making it more likely that you’ll damage your PCB, and lead free solder doesn’t instantly transition from solid to liquid, making it difficult to work with. Here’s a video explaining the difference between leaded & lead free solder: ua-cam.com/video/reNA5iwcg-w/v-deo.html Also, the solder that’s currently in the fnatic minstreak is all lead free solder. When I was first desoldering, I put my soldering iron at 390 degrees Celsius, and stuck the soldering iron on the lead free solder joint for like 10 seconds before that stupid thing would begin to turn into liquid. I would then try to use the solder sucker to get it out, and I wouldn’t even manage to get all of it out cause it’s pasty instead of completely liquid, and my technique sucked. The video I recorded was me using this shitty technique. I realized a much better way. The better technique to desolder is to go and put your soldering iron at 360 degrees Celsius, and then put the soldering iron on the lead free solder joint you’re trying to desolder. Then, go and poke the leaded solder wire into the solder joint. What will happen is that the leaded solder will melt and begin to mix into the lead free solder, causing the lead free solder to become leaded. This will make desoldering it much less painful. In terms of how to desolder properly, here’s a good video: ua-cam.com/video/tdt7AQXVzow/v-deo.html What I end up doing is that I’ll go and mix some leaded solder into the lead free solder joint. Then, I’ll ready the solder sucker, and stuck the soldering iron onto the solder joint that I Just leaded and hold the soldering iron there until the solder starts turning into liquid. I then wait 2 more seconds to make sure that all of the solder turned into liquid. I then go and stick the ss 02 solder sucker such that the silicon tip is literally touching the soldering iron tip and solder joint. I then wait 1 more second to make sure that my hand isn’t shaky and that the solder sucker tip is firmly in place, and then I push the button to suck out all the solder. I usually manage to clean out all the solder at that point. I know that this description is kind of confusing, and a video would explain things much better. I am considering to desolder my cooler master mk730. If I ever do that, I’ll be sure to record the process of desoldering & upload it to youtube, and I’ll tag you. For some reason, I don’t see many videos that talk about cleaning up your engineer ss 02 solder sucker. Here’s a video that talks about it: ua-cam.com/video/KoTkZJiMhDE/v-deo.html But, this clean up process is pretty annoying. I limit how often I have to do it just by doing this: Right after I use the solder sucker to suck out some solder, I go and press down on the solder sucker’s pump to try to eject out the solder that was just sucked up. I end up doing this over a bowl full of these little scraps of solder, and I usually have to use a pair of tweezers to pull it out completely. By doing this, you end up not having to do the long arduous process of cleaning out your solder sucker anywhere near as much. Now… all of that covered desoldering. Desoldering is extremely annoying, and even more so when you’re desoldering lead free solder joints. Soldering on the otherhand is nowhere near as annoying Here’s a pretty decent video on how to solder properly: ua-cam.com/video/TiiN27s8E3U/v-deo.html Anyways, hope I didn’t bore you to death nor demoralize you away from desoldering and soldering. If you would like to hop on a discord call to talk more, we can do so.

Hi there! Stabilizers don't get soldered. There's 3 main types: plate mount, snap in, and screw in. I wish I could use screw in, but must keyboards these days use plate mount. Here's a guide: switchandclick.com/stabilizer-guide/

@@amizan8653 I only want to lube the stabs so like i have to open the keyboard or what btw i also have ministreak

@@pakistaniyoutuber4256 yeah, you gotta open the keyboard and desolder the 5 keyboard switches that are stopping you from lubbing the stabilizers. If you don't want to do that, there are guides for trying to lube switches and stabilizers without opening up your keyboard (but it's not as good compared to desoldering switches and opening everything up). I'll post some links, one second.

@@pakistaniyoutuber4256 here's a video on trying to derattle stabilizers without opening them. I never tried this since I decided to open my keyboard and desolder. But you might want to go for this if you want to reduce rattle without having to desolder, or even opening your keyboard ua-cam.com/video/Q7gRnpe7oyw/v-deo.html

@@pakistaniyoutuber4256 you might also want to try lubing your switches like this if you don't want to desolder ua-cam.com/video/IUvwuyKbWlc/v-deo.html

Thanks! :D

Hey! Can you take a picture of your keyboard from the top so that I can see the layout / keys that you have? I might be able to answer your question based on that. Also, I think that there's only 1 fnatic ministreak that was released. I don't think there was a version 2 of it.

@@amizan8653 Heres my discord Donzalez#2464 I can send you the picture there! Thank you so much!

I'd say that it's hyper neat! (pun-intended)