Відео

@@ernestohernandez66 you bet!

Try this: after first ensuring that the chamber is empty and there is no magazine in the gun, or verifying that the magazine is also empty. Point the gun upward (vertical). Get a pencil that is longer than the barrel. Drop the pencil down the barrel (eraser side first). Press the trigger. Does the pencil basically shoot upward, either popping out of the barrel or jumping partially out the barrel and falling back in? If so, that means that your firing pin/striker has hit the pencil (that is what you want to happen). Do this a bunch of times. If the pencil moves over and over, then your firing pin is doing its job. If not, then something is in fact going on within your firing pin’s job. This is a really good test because it takes the ammo out of the equation, so you will know right away if the gun should seemingly work properly if you have the proper ammo that fits its chamber properly. Som ething to be careful of though: your firing pin block might be stuck in the up position. I only say this because of what you told me. If the firing pin block is stuck upwards, that would mean that the gun is NOT drop-safe. Unfortunately just because the parts are so small, it is easy to install the firing pin block spring incorrectly, which could certainly impede the firing pin block from doing its job. Putting all that aside for a moment: are you using the same ammo that you have used for the previous 700 rounds? I ask that because, as I explained in the video, there are definitely ammos that will not chamber properly in this gun.

@@radomguy9678 Yeah I took the slide apart, reseated the Firing pin Block spring, took it to the range. It fired perfect fire about 4 rounds then everything was a light strike.

@carlsaljr Immediately after the continual light strikes, what do you see when you remove the slide and inspect it underneath? Is the firing pin block stuck one way or another? did you test it with the pencil trick? Remove the slide, push firing pin block in and out umpteen times. Is there any resistance there? It should be smooth up and down. Then hold the firing pin block up into the slide. Push the striker in and out with its lug that sticks out. Any resistance there? Same thing, it should be smooth. If you have the time and patience, you can temporarily remove the firing pin block then put the extractor back together without the firing pin block there. Then do the pencil test. Of course the pencil test does not mimic the gun firing under recoil. However it is a useful test to help diagnose a problem. Now, I cannot remember for sure, but i believe the gun would operate just fine without the firing pin block, except for the fact that it would clearly not be drop-safe when the firing pin block is not present. This is just for testing purposes. If the gun operates just fine in this setup, then you know that the problem lies with the firing pin block. One other thing you want to make sure of is that the gun is in battery. When the light strik occur, is the gun in battery (is the slide ALL the way forward)? If not, then the problem could be with the recoil spring and guide rod, not bringing the slide all the way “home” where the slide is all the way forward. I can’t remember if you replaced the guide rod and spring. I am not suggesting it, just curious. It’s really hard to diagnose problems like this without the gun in front of me. I hope that at least some of this helps though. If push comes to shove, then I believe your gun has a lifetime warranty through Taurus. If you go that route, make sure to call them before sending the gun. There is probably an online form to send it in. However, if you call them, they may pay for the shipping to receive the gun from you. I know for certain from experience that they have done this in the past, but I do not know if they are still doing this. But probably.

@@carlsaljr PS I just tried the pencil test with one of my G2C’s. It flew out of the barrel when I pulled the trigger with the barrel pointing straight upward (vertical). Empty chamber and no mag of course, for safety.

@@Bozart123 I wish i knew the answer to that question. I have been curious about it myself. You can certainly ask Al at Lakeline but I don’t know if he is aware of this long standing issue. Someone who might know is 2aedu on UA-cam. I have not talked to him in a while but I told him about this issue a few years ago. He has tested Lakeline barrels and a bunch of Taurus pistols including the G2C and G3C. I do not know if he ever experienced the problem but I have talked with a number of his channel followers about it to steer them in the right direction. That direction is basically trying a different ammo until you find one that works well. I have fired a bunch of different defensive ammunitions through my G2C, and they have all been successful in chambering and feeding and shooting. However, the defensive ammo that I most recently used in the 9mm G2C is pretty different from the Hornady Critical lines. I could tell you what ammo that is but i took the G2C out of rotation a while back so I am ALMOST positive that the ammos that I have work well, but not 100% certain. If you are curious, they are Norma MHP 108 grain and Norma NXD (I forget the bullet weight). Very different from the Hornady Critical Duty and the Critical Defense. The only thing is that I don’t want you to buy that ammo based on what i say because I am not 100% certain about it. If I start carrying it again, I will have to verify that whatever defensive ammo that I have cycles well in it.

@@Bozart123 I just saw that you read my comment on 2aedu’s channel, haha, funny coincidence! Anyway, I do recommend asking him directly about the Lakeline barrels in relation to this known issue.

Sorry for the delay in my reply to you. It does sound like you resolved the issue with your Taurus G2C. That’s good. Let me guess, when you field stripped it at the range, did you clean and or lubricate it? Guns from the factory come with “shipping oil.” Shipping oil does a good job at preventing rust, but it does a poor job at lubricating a gun. If you do not clean the brand new gun before you take it to the range to practice with it and test it, then you will very likely run into problems like you did. Whenever you get a new gun that you plan to carry or use defensively God forbid that ever happens, even if it is a used and well cared for gun, you must test fire the exact ammo that you hope to have the gun loaded with. You must do this before potentially depending on it to save your or others’ lives. The reason is that not all ammo works in all guns of the same caliber. That is why I created this video. Not many people have watched it, and that is fine. I just hope to help at least one person who is experiencing feeding problems with their G2C. It is really a fantastic pistol. But it needs to try “eating” the defensive ammo that is going to be in its chamber and magazine before one can depend on it for saving lives.

@@steve_rogers_usmc1990 you are welcome! It was surprisingly one of the easiest things that I've ever done on a firearm. It sits flush on both sides. Does that answer your question? If not let me know and I'll try to write back later today.

@@radomguy9678 Thanks for the reply. I noticed the stock manual safety has different angles and ridges I assume to allow for the trigger to lock and the delete safety pin is really just a pin. So, I assume when you put the delete pin in you do not have to rotate or fidget with it to install like you do when you either take out or reinstall the manual safety?

@@steve_rogers_usmc1990 I'll get back to you later today, happy to help though!

@@steve_rogers_usmc1990 hello, I just checked the manual safety delete part, and I confirmed that it is the same dimensions all the way around itself. It does not need to go in at a specific angle. I understand your question: There are many many firing pins that are made to go into a gun in only one specific direction, but they can be a pain in the neck to keep in place because they can easily go in incorrectly. Fortunately that is NOT the case with the SAR 9 manual safety delete. If you look on Galloway Precision's website, they have an image of the part. The part is machined the same all the way around, just like the one that I have (even though I bought mine from Sarsilmaz). Good luck whatever you decide to do - it is very straightforward and quick, as you can see in my video.

@@Tex_Prepper good thinking!

Happy to help. I cannot imagine that they would be a weak point. Since all handguns have places where pins go through, openings for the trigger, and more. I know that I am happy with the SAR 9; hopefully you will be as well if you decide to buy one.

Thank you! You can get it cheaper than what I paid for it several years ago. When I bought it, I paid forty-two directly from SAR (or their importer, I cannot remember). However, for those who wish to buy the Manual Safety Delete for their SAR 9, Galloway Precision now makes them and sells them for a mere 15. You just can't beat a free market!

@@radomguy9678 Thanks

ordered mine from galloway precision for 15

@@ernestohernandez66 Got one as well. Very nice fit.

@@relaxandsleeptime5769 good luck!!

@@siperstein I'm sure the whole thing is going over in your mind, so please pardon my question, as I definitely do not want to put salt in your wound. Did you try different brands and types of ammo? I imagine you did, but since you did not mention it, I figured I would ask. Myself, I absolutely have tried many 22LR brands and types, and there are some that just SUCK. Others that do great. One other common cause of jams and misfeeds is a loose fitting mag. Someone somewhere sells shims to put on the mags, but I doubt that that is necessary as most people can figure something out on their own. If someone is using the magazine as a place to put their offhand, it can cause those types of issues, in which case the resolution is simply putting the hand elsewhere. That is one reason why I like an aftermarket magwell, like the one you see on mine in the video. There are those who love to hate magwells and will tell me so, but I don't care. I have one on my 9mm, too. Many will simply place their offhand on the handguard. Some put a stop on the bottom of the handguard to remind them to keep their fingers and hand away from the muzzle. If the AR is a carbine (with a 16" or longer barrel) then they can use a vertical grip. Those are the only two things that came to mind right now for your issues there. I hope it helps but more so, I hope you can get it worked out.

@@radomguy9678 thanks for your kind reply. Tried CCI, Federal and Winchester all copper options. Got equal counts of problem. I’m going to try holding the magazine steady as you do. Thanks again

@@siperstein A good way to secure the magazine for a test is to shoot it from a bench with the bottom of the mag resting on the bench. That will keep it stable and still. I do not touch the magazine when shooting it, but I do make sure that it is in there good and tight. Good luck again - I know that this kind of thing can drive a person batty!

@@radomguy9678 Thanks for the advice. I’ll try this week

@@PoppppaP Hello, thanks for writing. I'm actually going to copy and paste my reply to another comment because it is exactly what I was thinking in my head this evening before I realized that I had answered a similar question before. I hope it helps you. I don't remember if i mentioned this in the video but the ammo cartridge length and it fitting properly into a gun's barrel is true of every gun, literally. It is part of how a gun operates. The fact that the Taurus G series chambers are shorter is why it is an issue sometimes. "Well, it's been a long time since I have shot factory ammo through my G2C. However, I have used lots of brands and lines that have worked great. CCI Blazer 115 grain, Magtech 124 grain, Federal 115 grain, Sellier and Bellot 115 grain, Norma 115 grain, Norma 124 grain, Winchester 124 grain are a few. In general if you buy the well known brands of ammo in 9mm with 115 grain bullets, you will be AOK. One ammo brand that I have read over and over that has too long of an Overall Length (OAL) is Armscor. I do not know what bullet weights though. I have successfully bought Freedom Munitions ammo in 40S&W and in 45 ACP in the past, but I have avoided "remanufactured"/"reman" 9mm ammo because companies that make remanufactured ammo have a tendency to use less powder than the well known ammo brands, as well as longer OAL's. Why? Because they are being especially careful to not create ammo with higher pressure than is specified. More space in between the powder in a cartridge and the bottom of the bullet translates to lower pressures. Lower pressures are considered "safer" because higher pressures are dangerous. I say all this but I imagine that most of the remanufactured ammo companies create great ammunition and they will likely cycle well in most firearms. However, in guns like the Taurus G2C that have shorter chambers, to me, it has never been worth the risk that the ammo would not cycle in the G2C, when there are so many competitors that create 9mm ammo that cycles well in it."

Good to hear it! Enjoy!

Yes, good point, or a stack of quarters. When I made this video I had not yet used a Bore Buddy. I have one now because I ordered some parts for the bolt carrier and a replacement firing pin, so I spent a couple bucks for a Bore Buddy to see if there was any difference between it and the setup in this video. No difference for me, it works well either way, but it's good to try things.

Well, it's been a long time since I have shot factory ammo through my G2C. However, I have used lots of brands and lines that have worked great. CCI Blazer 115 grain, Magtech 124 grain, Federal 115 grain, Sellier and Bellot 115 grain, Norma 115 grain, Norma 124 grain, Winchester 124 grain are a few. In general if you buy the well known brands of ammo in 9mm with 115 grain bullets, you will be AOK. One ammo brand that I have read over and over that has too long of an Overall Length (OAL) is Armscor. I do not know what bullet weights though. I have successfully bought Freedom Munitions ammo in 40S&W and in 45 ACP in the past, but I have avoided "remanufactured"/"reman" 9mm ammo because companies that make remanufactured ammo have a tendency to use less powder than the well known ammo brands, as well as longer OAL's. Why? Because they are being especially careful to not create ammo with higher pressure than is specified. More space in between the powder in a cartridge and the bottom of the bullet translates to lower pressures. Lower pressures are considered "safer" because higher pressures are dangerous. I say all this but I imagine that most of the remanufactured ammo companies create great ammunition and they will likely cycle well in most firearms. However, in guns like the Taurus G2C that have shorter chambers, to me, it has never been worth the risk that the ammo would not cycle in the G2C, when there are so many competitors that create 9mm ammo that cycles well in it.

Have you already fired them after pushing the bullets in? It could be fine, but it could also be very dangerous. When a bullet is pushed in farther than the loading data calls for, it will always increase pressure past what is specified by the gun powder manufacturer. Every cartridge of ammunition has a prescribed maximum pressure that can safely be fired. The limiting factor is that you do not know what the load data is for that ammo that you have. It could compress the gun powder even and then there would be no space/air in between the powder and the bottom of the bullet. This would push the ammunition into territory where it is not made to for, and it could be unsafe, with, again, increased pressure. Think of blowing up a ballon past the point where it can be used, and it explodes. No harm with a ballon, but you are dealing with guns and ammunition, which can obviously be dangerous if not used or created properly. It is just not worth losing your gun, or hand, or other body parts, or your life, to save some money on ammo.

Where have you put the Lee case lube - on the bolt, or inside the upper? I have never heard of that trick but it sounds good.

I bought just the pinky grip extension from gun parts warehouse.Actually I bought two of the pinky grip parts from them.

Just an iPhone video, nothing anywhere close to professional audio or video. I am not trying to grow my channel, I don't ask anyone to like or subscribe. I am just a guy trying to share a little knowledge with others who might want to watch and or listen. Hopefully it was useful to you.

I’m glad this could help you, and that you found the video!

I don’t think this would help your exact issue, no. However, your problem is not uncommon. People will add some sort of shim to the magazines so that it will fit more securely in the magwell. There is a product by “Catch22” that I have heard of, but not tried myself. It is a shim that creates the good fit for the mag in the magwell, but also allows for using Smith and Wesson M&P 15-22 magazines. However, I cannot confirm if it works when using the CMMG mags. I find the Black Dog magazines to fit tightly as do others but they do not drop freely for me when pressing the mag release button. If I were having that issue, I would try shimming the mag with electrical tape, running vertically, until I would find the right fit. The electrical tape may not be a permanent solution but it can help troubleshoot a problem. I have used JB Weld brand epoxy for things like this, as a permanent solution. If you find that the gun operates properly when the mags are shimmed with a certain amount of electrical tape, you could add a layer of the epoxy to the side of the mag, let it dry, and slowly sand off epoxy material until it is the perfect fit. And it will dry very close to the original mag black color. Of course, try the black electrical tape first to see if shimming fixes the problem. Good luck! That issue is pretty common, so I think you will be able to fix it without much trouble.

Great product!

I have that kit with the Bore Buddy kit. I tried it out a couple of weeks ago. One thing I found out was that you cannot rest the bottom of the mag on the table/bench when shooting, or it will cause FTF's & stove pipes. So basically, my kit worked great as long as I wasn't resting the bottom of the mag on anything.

@victorramosjr2239 good comment!

Do you have an option of trying the CMMG kit with a different AR upper than your dedicated upper? Has it worked successfully in another AR with the same ammo that you used? I actually have to do some more troubleshooting work with my 22 here. My dedicated AR 22 that I show in the video was doing great after I made the changes described in the video. Thousands of crazy fun rounds. Then suddenly it was jamming like what you explained: I needed pliers to pull out a jammed spent shell each failure. It was with its “favorite” ammo, bulk Aguila Super Extra High Velocity 40 grain copper plated round nose. I happened to have some different 22LR with me, so I tried that. It was Federal High Velocity stuff (NOT the Federal Auto Match 22LR). Much to my surprise, it suddenly ran great. I only had a hundred rounds of that Federal with me, unfortunately. In my case, I believe the batch of Aguila that was failing was not within the same specifications of all the other exact Aguila 22 that had worked so well for me. One separate indicator that the batch of Aguila ammo was not up to par was that when loading my mags with my McFadden mag loader, this “offending” ammo was not running smoothly through the mag loader. In my experience, when that has happened, the OAL (overall length) of the given 22LR is longer than a typical 22LR round is. I THINK that the longer bullets being fed into the chamber of the CMMG bolt adapter was bumping into spent cases being ejected. It basically seems to have thrown its timing off. But again, I only had that 100 rounds of alternate ammo that day, so I did not get much of a chance to keep running it through the AR. Next time I go to the range, I’ll bring a good supply of CCI MINIMAGS (the round nose version), and some of that Federal ammo if I still have some. Also, I plan to bring another AR with me, and swap out its 5.56 BCG out for the range trip for testing, if I need it. So in my case, my new problem seems to be ammo related but I can’t be sure yet, as I have not had the time to re-test. It’s incredibly frustrating when this happens, which I think is especially frustrating when you build the gun yourself, because then you start second-guessing everything that you did when building it. I actually also might replace the recoil spring of my CMMG kit, too. I’ve certainly successfully and happily fired a ton of 22LR using this kit, so it might be time to replace the spring anyway. I could throw more thoughts about this your way, but the whole thing can be pretty maddening. It’s good to try just one thing at a time, if possible. Good luck with yours. Let me know if there’s anything I can do to help.

Something I forgot to mention: how old or new is your CMMG kit? The ones from four or more or so years ago have a different chamber adapter than the new ones. The older ones were made of a few parts whereas the newer ones are monolithic/one machined piece of metal. Look at your chamber adapter (the part that inserts into your AR’s chamber): is there a crack/split that goes down the length of the adapter? This is a common problem with the old chamber adapters. These older design will probably have a brass base to the chamber adapter whereas the newer style are all stainless steel. Please let me know if this helps.

@@radomguy9678i really appreciate the feedback and pointers! You gave me some insight as to what else i might need to look at. Mine jams with any kind of ammo, it is virtually a singleshot. Next i guess is hand polishing everything in and out, trying a different lube, and repthe recoil spring and see what happens. On the plus side it is very accurate; rabbit-head accuracy to 100yds with some brands. Im a helicopter mechanic & Harley mechanic and so far trying to be a CMMG mechanic😅I'm seeing a close relationship between the three: For each hour of operation, 3 hours of repairs & maintenance are required 😶

And mine is a dedicated upper complete unit, no adapter rqd.

@@stephenembrey883 oh man, I am sorry to hear that you are still having to mess with your conversion kit! But it sounds like you are taking it in stride so that is good. I know that you replied telling me that you have a dedicated upper. Does that mean that you have an upper that was made for 22lr, and not for .223/5.56? It is really hard to describe what I am asking about the “chamber adapter.” It is part of the CMMG kit. If you would, please check out the link that I will share below. That is an example of a crack in the chamber adapter. The same thing happened to me when I first bought my conversion kit. It was running great then something broke and it basically became a bolt action gun. I called CMMG and they sent me a new chamber adapter part and it fixed the problem. www.reddit.com/r/ar15/comments/i86hy3/cmmg_22_conversion_bolt_has_large_crack_in_it/#lightbox

Good luck!

Bore Buddy has a number of great products for the AR in 22LR, and I do like the original Bore Buddy. I bought a few more upgrade parts from them also primarily as preventative care. I now have some spare parts, too. It’s a really affordable way to shoot, and A TON of fun!

I think I'm going to look at the weight kit as well

Yeah, probably! Haha!

What were you doing at that time? I don’t remember. But thanks for watching, bud!!

👋

Sorry For🛄

Is that a question? I’m not sure. If you are asking what mags I use, I have the older style as well as a Black Dog brand mag, too.

Hi buddy!

Sorry to hear that. I hope you can get it resolved soon.

​@@radomguy9678 AT3 Tactical decided to send me a completely new unit and it works perfectly. ccmg however just wanted to send the part that was sticking in to barrel and it would takes them weeks. So AT3 customer support is great..he even send me an extra magazine for my trouble. I'll be sticking with them from now on. I still may get the kit for the conversion kit to really get it dialed in.

Sorry for this late reply. UA-cam settings held your comment for review (I have no idea why) and I did not know that. That is some good customer service from AT3! I am glad they helped you out. I actually have had good customer service from CMMG, by the way, in case you wanted to know. When I first got the kit several years ago, it used to ship with a different kind of chamber adapter. That old chamber adapter sometimes would crack down the middle. Mine did just that. I called CMMG and they sent the new style one out to me right away. Also, this past summer I dropped one of my CMMG brand mags for the 22LR conversion kit. Usually no big deal but it landed smack on the feed lip (the very top) onto my concrete cellar floor and broke. I called to ask if I could buy a new left side magazine housing from them, as it was my error. They sent me a whole new mag instead, free of charge . From my own experience, I think you could count on them to help you if you were in a bind, but obviously I cannot guarantee that, since I am just a user of their product, like any other average Joe. Enjoy your AR, and thanks for the reply!

Yes, of course. Da.

@@radomguy9678 i have too m70

@@brijanjekodzonija985 Excellent firearm!

What is it that you do not like about Zastava?

True, of course, when it is used in an existing AR, where one would only be swapping parts (BCG and magazines at a minimum). The point of my particular video is about an AR pistol or carbine that someone would build from scratch, so no parts would already be in the gun. I worded the title of the video intentionally, specifying the word “build.” This video does not apply to someone who has simply swapped out the BCG and mags, unless that person removed the buffer for one reason or another and experienced problems like the ones that I did in the past. Enjoy your kit!

@radomguy9678 I understand that, however the concept is the exact same. You MUST run a buffer and spring for it to work properly or buy a block off plate. This isn't stated as it's implied when you buy the kit because whether you buy a conversion kit or build a dedicated .22 AR, they are only setup those two ways . It's definitely a learning curve when you first get into building a gun.

@@nebick27 If your point is to state that I made a mistake. Then, yes, that’s pretty much the reason why I made the video. To explain what I did wrong. I am actually human, not a UA-cam bot, and I made a mistake as humans do. I don’t know why folks comment just to say that I made a mistake.

I mentioned in the video that the Bore Buddy was an alternative to using the buffer, yes. Bore Buddy makes great products; I have a few of their items.

@@radomguy9678 I saw a unboxing video and it came with a black backstop. That slid in and out of the BCG. Did u get that??

@@lanceculver5900 The video creator that had that probably bought one of Bore Buddy’s “kits” which can have a few items. One can also buy their stuff one item at a time. I believe I bought some items separately from them but I can’t remember. Anyway, I did buy and install that black plastic “buffer” as they call it.

@@lanceculver5900 finishing my comment here, I think that black buffer piece is a good idea and serves its purpose well. I have some handguns that I wish had buffers like that to reduce or even eliminate wear and tear on the frames of those guns.