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randy wilson
Приєднався 30 жов 2013
@southbaybrisketco on IG
Bradley Smoker 4 rack 900 watt element upgrade and high temp wire replacement?
Short video on installing the 900 watt heating element upgrade and high temp wiring.
Переглядів: 16 515
I too completed the upgrade to the 900 watt Tempco heating element. Replaced all wiring with Bryne Mica high temp wire and stripped off the blue insulation from the crimped O rings that connect the wire to the heating element. Everything worked fine for the first smoke. On second smoke, the temp in the box wet up to, and beyond, my desired 270 F and above (using the original "non-digital" smoke generator) so I turned the temperature dial down and opened the top damper a bit to let the heat escape. I opened the door and noticed that the new heating element was red hot even though the temp dial was only set to about 2/3, and I found that odd. Continuing on, I made a few more adjustments of the dial since the temp in the box was still not stable at 270, and then the Tempco element stopped heating. I haven't opened up everything yet to see what happened. Could it be the thermo-fuse around back (which I didn't change out while installing the new wiring)? Could the element have just failed? Is there a problem inside of the smoke generator because it can't handle the higher wattage heating element? Just do not know yet until I tear it apart.
Update: I just opened up the back of the smoker, tested for continuity on the inline thermo-fuse that is connected to the temperature sensor, and it was good. Tested the voltage coming out of the smoke generator to the box and it was good. Tested the voltage at the posts of the heating element, and it was good. As I turned up the temp dial, the voltage increased accordingly, from 60 volts at low setting to over 120 volts near the high temp dial setting. I can only conclude that the Tempco heating element itself went bad.
Did you check the thermal fuse and heating element using the lowest ohme setting?
@@mitchy880 I didn't. Simply tested AC voltage at the two o-ring connectors that supply voltage to the heating element, and the voltage varied with turning the temperature knob, from 60 volts to 120 volts. I reinstalled the 7 year old OEM heating element, and it heated up just fine, although it barely kept temp at 250. I ordered a new OEM quartz heating element to see if a new one would be more efficient than the old one. Haven't tested yet.
I just upgraded the heating element but not the wires. Still can't get it above 225ish could it be the wires?
Hi Randy, thanks for the video. I did the upgrade, changed the wiring to the 14G hi temp silicone wire and upgraded the thermofuse. Smoker & new element working well but gets really hot to the point that the insulation in the back of the smoker is showing burn marks and melt where the element is positioned. I’m thinking I need to install some kind of a heat shield or reflector inside behind the element. Any ideas or suggestions?
Just did this upgrade But now element heats up right away when I plug it in , even without the digital display on . Any suggestion what would cause this . Thanks
did you upgrade the wiring too? just got the heating element, but wasnt too sure what else needs to be changed out.
@andresc1220 did you upgrade wiring and all? I just installed new element today and no wire upgrade. Can't get smoker above 220ish, it is cold as hell here in Colorado right now with a light breeze but I figure it would still heat up better
Bryne Mica High Temperature Wire -60~450 Degree C,Stranded Nickel plated copper wire,Insulation by Mica and Fiberglass,used in harsh environments (AWG14 10Ft) www.amazon.com/dp/B07PKGLKF9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AQW0G8MQ6VJK9XCAMS3P
I got this and used 3 times and the 4 time I couldn’t get the heat up past 150
Just did this upgrade and the smoker warmed up quick.... put my ribs and rib tips in came back 15 mins later and the smoker wasnt heating up. Power was there so something tripped within the smoker, well hopefully. Having a non digital I might get a PID controller after i figure out what happened.
@Chris McCabe The inline Thermo fuse to the thermostat cutoff?
check the fuse just under the temp sensor in the back
Looks like the inline glass fuse inside the control panel popped. I replaced it with a 250V 15A up from 10A. Smoked a pork roast on Sunday for 7 hrs and it had no problem keeping temps in 40 degree weather, which was awesome! Family and friends loved it.
@@will0127 Are you speaking of the inline thermo-fuse behind the back cover that is attached to the round temperature sensor that is installed into the smoker box? Or when you say "control panel" do you mean that you opened up the smoke generator and found a different fuse?
@@FPVinPA that would be the smoke generator box. Its hidden but just follow the positive line. I still use this smoker alot and still no issues. Only concern is running out of pucks 😂🤣
Hi Randy. I can't find this wiring kit on amazon? Can you link it below plz. Thx Also my box is BS611. How do I control the heat of the element if its rheostat and not digital?
Bryne Mica High Temperature Wire -60~450 Degree C,Stranded Nickel plated copper wire,Insulation by Mica and Fiberglass,used in harsh environments (AWG14 10Ft) www.amazon.com/dp/B07PKGLKF9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AQW0G8MQ6VJK9XCAMS3P
I have the same smoker. Just bought the element upgrade. Is the new temperature control needed or can I use existing? Need a follow up video also :). Thanks
I have always used a PID controller from Auber instruments with the original Bradley smoker. Not sure if it will work without the PID.
Smoker worked great after the element upgrade with the PID controller, unfortunately a strong wind came through and blew the smoker off its stand and completely destroyed the door and box. I have recently moved on to a pellet smoker. Will be posting more videos soon
@@randywilson7060 it won't work without a PID of some kind.