Відео

Those kinds of filters ruin the MAF sensor

I noticed you board compartment is upside down?

the file at 15:08 doesn't exist and tinymachines have moved their software?

What kind of coolant is that?

I have an Ender 3 pro , got the CR touch but wouldnt fit my board so i got a 4.27 board , i have a sprite head too , the Creality firmware didn't work so i found myself here , then about 5 mins in with my head spinning I doubled down on the oem firmware , shortened the file name to "firmware.bin" with a good working SD card and the .bin as the only file on the entire card and it worked, more perfectly than i could have hoped for , everything just works , now back to printing plastic shtuff instead of getting a degree in unrelated sheet.

You have good material on two videos I have seen from your channel I appreciate your content. It has been difficult finding S60 T5 videos . Do you happen to know what the wiring color sequence for the MAF sensor my plug broke and not sure of the order of wires from front of the car towards the back . I have a 5 pin straight line configuration for the pins. Any help would be again appreciated 🤙

what year car is this even why would you not put the year

i have been running auto bed level on my ender v3 se every time i print and then i adjust the z offset a little lower to get a good bead for bed adhesion. works every time but i suppose i am wasting a few minutes before each print.

Kinda late but i also installed my bltouch today, I think the leveling could work but my nozzle temperatur is always 300°. When I turn the printer on, the lcd said that its on 300° but it's cold... Any thoughts?

Best tear down and set up I've seen so far! Thanks.

Sorry vrong oil. It should be: 0W-30 a5/b5.

where do i get ball bearings from?

would greatly appreciate it if you could tell me the location of the fuel filter in the 2012 Volvo S60 T5. Thanks.

awesome my friend thanks very much.

will these slide if placed on top of a rug instead of concrete floor?

What jack stands did you use? I have a problem where the top of the hack stand beam is too wide and hits other structures around the little bar. I jacked up the car from the jacking points and put the the jacks stands with horse stall mat on the top, under the flat lift points.

Great video mate! I just subscribed to your channel. Really appreciated all your input about the direct drive. You definitely deserve more than 4K subs. Here's to your success! Sim

I assume this is for authomatic transmision.

Is the fluid the correct level just by doing this method. I see you did not check the dipstick afterwards.

Hi James Can you help? I have an ender 3 pro, I have upgraded the motherboard to 4.2.7 I also have upgraded to a touchscreen, I cannot find the firmware anywhere, I have tried marlin and reality, oh forgot to mention I am a newbie to 3d printing, I am happy to pay you for you expertise, thanks

new location C:\Program Files\UltiMaker Cura 5.7.1\share\cura esources\definitions

Do you set the Z-offset after the g29 before doing a m500? or do you m500 right after the g29 without setting offset like it asks when probing is done?

Thank You, How was the chicken?

thank you for the guide

Where is the fuel pump fuse ?

Thanks for sharing this. Very useful

To get more precise printing the leveling mesh shoud show the lowest possible difference between the bed lowest location and the higherst one, because if you print something using the superfine quality you get less deviation of the layer height In your video you got +0.050 (or +0.060, the right value cannot be read because of the insuffcient video resolution) at location 1 and -0.125 (- 0.126) at location 8. The differenc is at least 0.175 mm, furthermore between to locations at almost minimum distance each other. If you print very high quality (let's say 0.16 layer thickness) this is too much difference. To get the overall minimum difference you have to do the first coarse bed levelling, and all the subsequent operations (so the entire process) with the bed and the nozzle heated, more or less at 60/200 degrees. The exact values don't matter, they have to be close to the temperatures which will mainly be used in real printing. Furthermore it is wrong to suggest different spring tensions for light and heavy models: once the bed has been levelled, for future adjustments (due to the very slight deformation of the bed plate in the time, which is not avoidable because any material submitted to many heating and coolling processes doesn't maintain forever the exact original shape) you need very very little strokes of the levelling wheels. So you can from the beginning put the springs in a relatively high tension, without of course bring them to full compression. By doing so you have anyway a very stable bed, and you can print any kind of model (light or heavy it makes no difference) without the bed changing its vertical position, being anyway able to slightly adjust the vertica position of the four corners if you need it in the future.

What should the torque spec be on the bracket bolt if I use a manual torque wrench?

Do you still have this car? Not sure you check YT anymore. I am going to change my condenser since my fins are badly damaged along with the do88 IC. You have the only video that shows a condenser change for a Volvo P2. Thanks again.

"we only got one sho- and I blew it" Relatable

Where do you get the app for your phone? Can you stop prints from you phone? Has anyone introduced AI plugin to watch the print and auto stop if there is an issue?

So, Upgrade the hardware, upgrade the firmware, then come to you to iron out the kinks? PERFECT! Thank you for making this very clear instructional to help me sort out my heating issue! Immediate subscribe, immediate like, and I barely ever comment but I had to thank you

Following these exact steps virtually destroyed my printer. Followed all the steps to the letter using the Thingiverse file. After loading the firmware and turning the printer on, the probe kept flashing and dit not extend or register the nozzel coming down. It pushed so hard into the bed it left a mark and the vertical motors are now permanently making a strange noise. Had to turn back to old firmware, but the mechanical issues remain... What did I miss in the explanation which made the probe go in error?

What year s60 is this?

you're awesum dude! Thanks. Straight to the point and nice music at the end. Luved it

Bom dia amigo ,minha ender 3 estava com essa falha da tela azul ,ao colocar o cartão sd para atualizar o FireWire a máquina desligou e não que ligar ,ao checar os componentes procurando onde está o erro ,percebi que se eu tirar o fusível da placa mãe a máquina liga ,mas o display e a placa mãe não ligam ,com o fusível na placa a ender nem liga ,como se o cabo de força da fonte não estivesse funcionando ,será que queimou a placa mãe ? Como consigo saber se ela está queimada ? Sou do Brasil aqui não tem informações sobre isso ,o máximo que encontro aqui são tutoriais de como desentupir o hotend kk Obrigado pela atenção desculpa o texto enorme .

Hi - Can you explain this in more detail. For example, do the end switches have polarity consideration? How do I know which wire is which? And what is the difference between this and the CR Touch (which I have since I have an Ender-3 Neo)? Thanks . . . Phil

I enjoy that there’s next to no explanation 😂

Hi, how to setup probe Z-offset, please? And what is diffrence between standard Z-offset and probe Z-offset? Thanks

good video, I found it very helpful

hey im a noob at all this how do i know my offsets etc? my screen went blue and ive no way of finding out. ive been looking online how to put the firmware on from scratch. I dont understand files defined and compiled atc

I have ender 3 Max switched from 4.2.2 to 4.2.7 having problems loading firmware on both boards any help

I saved this video to watch thinking "oh, this guy knows what he's talkign about" - wanted it and now I'm like "This guy has zero clue".

28mm gap is recommended but how do you know what the gap is out of the package with out a gapper tool?

six printers, all have PEI sheets. after the second one, I purchase the PEI sheet with the printers. It's a godsend and never lost a print because of coming off the bed.

Very nice tutorial! I learned much from it and feel a lot more competent making things within blender itself. Thank you! I adapted this for a 36mm diameter container, after printing I found that the lid will not screw into the container. I am assuming that the extrusion of the top ring of the threads for the bottom of the container (which has the threads facing out) of 2.5 is too high for it to allow the threads to reach each other? I am not sure, I assume it works as you described for the much wider jar. Do you make any variation in this sort of area for smaller containers?

These are SOOOO sketchy! I actually sucked BOTH of them under my GMC Acadia. I'm going to try AWD next time and see if that helps at all. Thanks for the video!

Hi there!! Very comprehensive and useful video tutorials. I came across your video as I bought a 4.2.7 board some days ago and mine is advertised as Ender V2 (but my printer is first gen) so I would like to know if you could assure me if the board is the same (I understand I will have to flash the firmware for my own printer) but I'm afraid I'd rather not plug the board in without a confirmation. Comgrow hasn't been able to assure me on that. Thank you!

Gracias, no podía imprimir hasta que desactivé la skirt!

My cables are black white and yellow. Do i have to still swap them around?