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mrsicivicdude
Приєднався 12 вер 2010
Відео
Wetbike ride 1988 tomcat
Переглядів 5379 років тому
First ever ride on a wetbike believe it or not. He had a good teacher who told him it was like riding a dirtbike in soft sand. He fell twice on the second ride but still had a blast.
Backyard casting furnace running on kerosene/heating oil.
Переглядів 1 тис.10 років тому
I built a homebrew casting furnace for making aluminum castings. After a few burns using charcoal, I decided to upgrade to fuel oil and found the Kwiky design. The end result is AWESOME. I took the video at night so the swirl pattern of the flames is really evident. What you can't see well is that I'm using a small air regulator set to 30psi for the injection/atomization air and a small two spe...
Sicivicdude sand drag nitro blaster
Переглядів 87611 років тому
I was in the far lane.... Still not quite right, but certainly closer. It pulled until about 3/4 of the way down the track and started withering down. The close lane was a sport quad with a street bike engine in it.
Nitro drag blaster startup
Переглядів 3 тис.12 років тому
I started with a $300 craigslist quad and hand built a nitromethane blend drag yamaha blaster. I hand built the pipe, ported the engine, built the front and rear "suspension". It's running on a 10% nitro/methanol blend but the plan is to step up to 25% or maybe more. Still a LOT of tuning to do obviously. At the very end it actually ran out of fuel.
'93 Yamaha blaster sand drag at busco beach
Переглядів 1,5 тис.13 років тому
1993 Yamaha Blaster on the right lane of the 300' sand drag. Mild mods, procircuit pipe, maxxis razr's
'93 Yamaha blaster sand drag at busco beach
Переглядів 1,1 тис.13 років тому
1993 Yamaha Blaster on the left lane of the 300' sand drag. Mild mods, procircuit pipe, maxxis razr's
Water wheelies at busco
Переглядів 69113 років тому
'08 Honda foreman 500 with custom snorkel riding water wheelies at busco beach
jaw rock crusher
Переглядів 29 тис.13 років тому
I decided to make a jaw crusher to process some construction debris I had laying around. I began the project with the idea that it would be mobile. I started with an old boat trailer and started building accordingly. I used pillow blocks and 2 bolt flanges to support the 1.5" driveshaft. The jaw has 3/4" swing at the top and about 1/2" an inch at the bottom. It uses a 5 hp briggs engine for pow...
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Neat wet bike bro. It came along way didn't it?
Being being being being being
this might be stupid but how does the crusher blade back and forth
At the top, the shaft has an eccentric bolted inside a large pillow bearing. This actually proved to be the undoing of the mechanism. If I were to do it again, I'd make the back of the moving jaw half round to accept the bearing directly instead of relying on the pillow bearing frame to take the load. At the bottom, the moving jaw had an incline welded on the end and a large piece of bar welded across. the eccentric moved the moving jaw in and out at the top but also up and down. The up and down motion forced the incline against the bar which caused the bottom of the moving jaw to move in and out. This has the disadvantage of not being adjustable. The throughput size being fixed at about 1/2". It has the advantage of being stone simple.
thank you
what are the 2 inner bearings called you use and outer ones please
what size is the shaft your using
I believe I used a 1.5" shaft because I was able to find bearings in that size fairly easily. Basically you just want something big enough to not bend and easy enough to be worked with.
would love more pics. Just what I need.
I broke the bearing carrier on the toggle plate trying to crush some basalt years ago. I figured out what I needed and crushed a bunch of bricks and mortar I needed to crush while I was at it. I just disassembled it and re-purposed the engine. Unfortunately, that means no more pictures to share of the crusher.
i was thinkig the same, using tire as fly wheel..
Needs more power. Maybe some velocity stacks would do the trick
So I take it the moving plate just slides up and down across the rod?
Thanks thats a great idea
can you share a pic of the toggle system?
The toggle system is deceptively simple. I used a piece of steel bar across the back below the moving jaw and cut the lower end of the moving jaw at a 45 deg angle. Then a thin piece of wear steel was welded onto the angle on the back of the moving jaw. The up and down motion of the eccentric cam moved the jaw in and out. I kept the round rod lubricated with wax to let it slide freely. That design is not as hardy as a pivoting toggle obviously but is MUCH simpler. If you wanted to be able to adjust the throughput diameter, you could make the round rod mounting adjustable.
fuck that guy im impressed
I don't have any drawings or many pictures of the build. It truly was something I just decided to do just for fun. What I did was take the shaft and make a camshaft out of it by putting a piece of 2.5" OD pipe around it and weld it to the 1.5" shaft. Then I used a torch to melt/weld in filler material until it was solid. Then a pillow block bearing locked to the eccentric and bolted to the movable jaw.
The movable jaw has a large "pad" made out of thick plate steel welded to it. Inside that plate, two holes were drilled and tapped. A large internal diameter bearing pillow block was bolted to the movable jaw. The eccentric (think, camshaft lobe) was made sized so that it would just slip into the bearing inner race and the set screws would hole it there. The movable jaw pillow block actually became the "in and out" and "up and down" control for the movable jaw.
You have built what appears to be just what I'm looking for. I'm leading a mission effort in the Philippines, for persons who are presently manually crushing rocks with a 16oz hammer, making aggregate for concrete. A simple solution, such as what you've built, might easily/markedly improve production and income for these persons. How can I learn more about what you've built? I can be reached at aceqapd@yahoo.com Thank you!
@mrsicivicdude ok, great thanks
@tbndeereman75 That's absolutely right. The inclined plane slides against the rod freely (not attached) and only gravity and the pressure from the rocks holds it back. Its alignment is dependent on the pillow block at the top "holding it" up just right. I built the movable jaw and inclined plane and then set the rod in place. I then shimmed the non-moving jaw to adjust the output diameter.
@mrsicivicdude So the incline plane is on the bottom of the jaw, and the rod is on the frame, right? So when the jaw moves, the back slides on the rod, and that is how the jaw mounts? Is that right?
@tbndeereman75 There are three different methods to do this, a single "toggle", a dual "toggle", or the SUPER simple way I did it. I used an incline plane at the bottom of the movable jaw and a large diameter rod attached to the frame. The eccentric cam moves the movable jaw forward, down, backward, and then upward. Forward and backward crush material at the top, up and down move the bottom of the jaw in and out to clear the mechanism.
how is the moving jaw attached on the bottom. I am wanting to build one, just cant seem to find how to do that anywhere.
Awesome Dude.
@X1KAtatracknearyou Yes, it was. I had just finished assembling the engine and took it for a "test run". I wanted to show my buddies at blasterforum the results. I was VERY proud of myself.
I understand how u made the eccentric (lobe) but how does it attach to the shaft? I thought about using a cam that would contact on the upper back of the crush plate ,but from what I understand the bottom pinchpoint must go up and down or it will clog.
I love it!! I'v been searching for something like this ,simple and homemade,any pics you could post would be great!! did you use hardened steel for the jaws?
The eccentric is 2 1/4" welded directly onto the 1 1/2" shaft. I started with a piece of 2 1/4" OD pipe and tacked it onto the shaft and then filled the pipe solid using a torch and filler rod so the eccectric is solid metal. Both jaws are straight. The moving jaw is a total of 14" long including what was needed to bolt the pillow mount to the back of. ~4" is above the "backsplash" hidden from view.