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Приєднався 14 лис 2011
Set of 4 OEM Ferrari 599 wheels 2024-03-09
close up of the condition of the wheels
2697196189
2697196189
Переглядів: 27
Відео
Mary Jane Gray rememberence
Переглядів 49Рік тому
My sister Janice's rememberence at our mother's memorial
Victor the Wrestling Bear, South Bend, IN
Переглядів 3,4 тис.4 роки тому
This was an event at the old Pardners nightclub (previously "The Indiana Club) around 1986.
Pool Heater, Knocking Noise
Переглядів 53 тис.4 роки тому
I was getting a banging/knocking noise from my pool heater. I called the heater manufacturer (Raypak) and the technician suggested that I check for scaling and check the unitherm governor. This is the video of locating and fixing the problem
End up using any PC Woody on a project?
I've been using the JB Weld
Great video! I just put one of these in this fall and so far it worked fine. Just closed the pool for winter but i will pull the governor next fall and check it. I have my water tested once a week at the pool store and keep close check myself but it looks like a good pm to do once a year.
Thank you good sir. Played the video, heard the same noise and noticed we have the same heater. Just finished the job and everything seems to work great. Just in time for a labor day weekend pool party!
@@BarroomHero8 when I made that video, I thought there might be 10 people that might watch it. But I was wrong. It's really gratifying to get comments like this Thanks
Thank you for the video. We had the same problem. One guy said it’s the pump issue another said we may need replace the core of the heater. After watching this video, we called again and asked to look at what we see on here. Turned out that it was the same issue. Saved us time and money. Thanks 🙏
@hc8843 Thanks for the note. Who would have thought that a 60 year old guy would post a video about fixing a pool heater, and get 50k views!?
@@pg42 I dont think age has got anything to do with that 🙂. What you did is brilliant. Thanks!
Excellent video!
Thank you for posting this video. I just replaced the igniter module on an older Hayward H400. The unit started making the same sounds. I will take a look at the thermostat, manifold, and bypass valve for scale build up.
Great video Thanks
Great video thank you sir....
Hey this worked great. But now it’s not heating up the water as fast. Previously before I cleaned it, it was heating too much and pop fuse. Cleaned everything and replaced the govnor and temp sensor. So what else can I go to find a happy medium?
For those wondering how the thermostat works: Only a small amount of water goes through the tubes in the heater, the rest is bypassed. The heated water mixes with the bypassed water and then exits the heater to your pool. The thermostat controls how much heated water passes through the tubes. It’s there to compensate for different pump flow rates and water temperatures, so that the heated water exiting the tubes is always 105 degrees F. That is the ideal temperature for the water to be at to prevent damage and run at the highest efficiency. As stated earlier, this 105 degree water mixes with the bypassed water in the manifold and then exits the heater.
Now that I cleaned the manifold, replaced uniform governor, and the temp sensor in the manifold, it’s not getting as hot as it previously was. How do I adjust it so it heats up more water ? Heats it faster? I did all this cause I got flame roll out and it was heating to much it popped fuse. Now it appears to be working and running great but the water is ust not getting hot enough.
Quitenle la máscara a el oso para que se coma a los memsos esos
Everyone with these issues also check to make sure the whole area behind that manifold is clear of crap. A lot of heaters go bad due to corrosion or bad chemistry. Also if you have a chlorine feeder right before the outlet make sure to use a Hartford loop or check valve as these will eat up your exchanger in a year. Your pool will oxidize with copper and turn a greenish copper color. And it's a biotch to get out. For those with a mastertemp from pentair. They have a similar item called a thermal regulator held with a spring. However the banging noise is usually due to a broken bypass behind the manifold which gets jammed in the outlet line. This requires a whole new bypass. Not just a regulator. Not the easiest repair. Call a professional if you are not comfortable with this stuff. I've seen many people get hurt or cause damage working on heaters. Gas and electric. It's unfortunately not a DIY for most. If getting the high limit 2 error this and water flow (dirty filter) are usually the issue. The sensor itself isn't a common failure. There is a limit 1 and 2 switch. Have fun
Who has the tape of the complete tape cuz I I wrestled that night I was the last
Sorry, that's all I got. I was the last guy in the video.
Where can you get the rest of this video I was the last man that night
Also I would recommend you disconnect all of the wires from the manifold so you can take a water hose and force water through all of the manifold holes. The manifold for the 336a is one piece not two. Also there is no main gasket. There are gaskets on the 8 pipe connections.
Mine was doing this big time. I have a Raypak 336A which has a different cast iron manifold with just the 2 inlet and outlet pipes. The unitherm governor is behind the large square brass nut below the outlet pipe. Still this video shows excellent directions. Thanks.
Thanks for the video. I didn’t understand the noise before this. I learned from another repair video that the first step is to make sure all of the filters are clean. Most issues arise from decreased flow to the heater. The temp will rise inside with knocking sounds from boiling, and it will shut down. It saved me a lot of time and money.
Great video much appreciated. After research I identified this as a cause of my high limit 2 error code, along with the banging. Wondering why you did not drill out the ports as I have seen in other videos? Also why did you not check the high limit switches and temp sensors? Finally this is beyond my comfort level to work on so my question is how long / $ for a tech to fix? Thanks so much.
Yes it helped thank you
Had a tech come out 4 times. Tried another who attempted. No results. Saw this video and it did the trick! 😊 THANK YOU!!
Fantastic. It's very gratifying to know that this helped
Awesome video
Thanks for posting! My Jandy was having the same issue. A supposedly reputable pool equipment repair person came and told me I needed a new heater. 5500 installed that would have run. Luckily I found your video before making the decision to buy a new one. Though the Jandy is laid out a bit different, the components and general arrangement is the same. Followed your video, cleaned out the scale and now my heater is tip top.
your tutorial helped me a lot I thank you infinitely
that was a dope ass single leg to a back take by the bear.
Too bad it never got to sink it’s teeth into that fruitcake Mayor Pete.
Thanks for this video !
This bear must’ve lived a hell of a life
Thank you so much for posting these. I'm Russ Brinegar, the car salesman from South Bend, Indiana, who wrestled Victor in 1985. I was in the middle of my divorce and had lots of beer in me that night. I've told friends and family this story, and wondered if they even believed me. now I have proof thanks to your video, I never dreamed I would see this, thank you so very much - Russ
Russ, I can't believe that you found this video after 37 years. And no one can doubt that it's you after hearing the introduction. Thanks for letting me know that you found it
I have a master temp400 and it sounds just like yours did. Hopefully that’s my problem! Thanks for the helpful video 👍🏻
Salt destroys everything... But yet people keep wanting salt pool .. us in the north east see what salt does to our roads .. it's the same with the pool heaters...
How exactly does the bypass valve and thermostat work?
I think the thermostat (Raypak calls it a unitherm governor) stays closed to until the water in the tubes gets up to temperature, then it opens to let water circulate through the heater tubes. I'm pretty sure that's what the technical guy at Raypak told me. It's easy to test it by putting it in hot water as see if it opens
@@pg42 wasn’t really following how it opening and closing was restricting the flow to the tubes.
@@Billy18bmOnly a small amount of water goes through the tubes, the rest is bypassed. The heated water mixes with the bypassed water and then exits the heater to your pool. The thermostat controls how much heated water passes through the tubes. It’s there to compensate for different pump flow rates and water temperatures, so that the heated water exiting the tubes is always 105 degrees F. That is the ideal temperature for the water to be at to prevent damage and run at the highest efficiency. As stated earlier, this 105 degree water mixes with the bypassed water in the manifold and then exits the heater.
Very nice video!! I have a High Limit 2 Fault. Already replaced both High-limit TCOs but no luck. Would this procedure of cleaning out the scale buildup solve that issue?
I don't know enough about the faults to advise you. I can say that it's pretty easy to take the thermostat (unitherm governor) out and see what is inside.
Did anyone get a "High Limit 2 Open" message? how can that be fixed?
I'm afraid I'm no help on this one
Pardon my French--but this is a balls on video. I followed along and found the first 3 tubes were clogged like yours. Strange--the other 6 were fine. However the vacuum was woefully inadequate. #2 from the right had calcified into rock--there was no vacuuming/chipping away at this crap. Northern Illinois well water. I pushed in and twisted the screwdriver to no avail--and then I thought about my spade bits! Worked perfectly. Used my oldest drill and almost burned it up, but I now have mostly clear pipes--and no knocking. Was careful not to twist during the drilling process. Thermostat tested fine in hot water as well. Thanks so much for doing this.
That's amazing! I thought mine was pretty bad, but I didn't need to drill it out. Thanks for the comment.
Great video. Thanks!
Thanks for the feedback
Hi there. Really appreciate you sharing this video. It’s the same problem I had with this heater. In addition to the debris I also had narrowing lumens in three of the water pipes. I used a drill to open them up a bit. Replaced the Thermal regulator as it was is nasty shape. Was able to reconnect and fire everything up. Heater started working…yay! Clearly I need to pay more attention to balancing my water.
Nice video. Big thanks. I'll try this tomorrow.
Is this a salt pool?
So, if my heater is bypassed but it still makes a shaky intermittent rumbling sound, is it the same issue, scale buildup? It’s not real loud or anything. I Also notice that the chlorinator appears to sound like there’s little pebbles in it, or the connecting pipes, making a constant knocking sound. What could this be?
I'm afraid I don't have any experience with the heater bypassed. Inspecting seems like a good idea if it's not too difficult to disassemble.
Excellent video very informative and instructional.
Great Video! Learned a lot!
Thank you so much
Thanks for posting. My buddy who is not real handy has the same issue. Almost exact same noise. I will crack it open and see if this scale is the culprit.
Thanks for the comment. Please add a post to say if it was the same issue.
You missed taking a look at the bypass valve. Judging by the very large amount of debri you had in your heater, you should have lifted that second panel inside that header and checked the bypass valve. With the corrosion you had, that shaft was probably full of grit and the valve was probably stuck. It is a simple matter to pull out that valve and clean the shaft and tunnel the closing part slides on so the valve opens and closes. One more 2 minute step to a perfect repair. I was amazed by the amount of junk in your heater and the exchanger was not leaking. Lucky. New exchanger is $600.
Ooo cool! My dad wrestled him too!!! Said he got thrown around! And my pops is STRONG! He just showed me this video! Idk why they think they can put Victor in a head lock!! Hahaha
I just tried to survive
Fast if you have hard water.
It is silicone lube not grease. The lube prevents the O-rings from turning brittle and cracking from contact with chlorine. Never use Vaseline or anything but silicone lube.
Magic Lube is the brand a lot of pool guys use for various gaskets and O-rings. FYI.
nice video lots of information! thanks!
Glad it helped
My heater was recently damaged due to the cold weather here in Texas, and I was getting ready to take this manifold off because it looks like that’s where the water is leaking from. I watch this video and it will be a big help for me when I go to take that off. I understand the effort it takes to make this and I wanted to say thanks for uploading it and making it available. Again it was a big help.
Thanks for the note
La
Just in case you know.... The new Raypak/Rheem heater header has a sacrificial anode well directly in front of one of the header nuts. I have NO idea how to access that. I need to reverse the headers. Regardless, the bypass valve may need to be accessed in the future. What tool do I need to access that nut? Moreover, how do I get the nut back on the bolt on the other side of the heater? Can barely touch the bolt with one finger. Whoever engineered this snanfu should have to work on every damn one of them! Customer wanted heated pool for the holidays, ain't gonna happen. I've been in the business for 25 years, and getting more pissed by the day on what factories are putting out. I called factory rep on this, no response. Aside from all that, Happy Holidays everyone! .
Unscrew the entire anode to move it out of the way. With a big channel lock. The anode is threaded on like a plug, and not machined on. Maybe I am missing something, but I assume that's what ya meant
I reversed my header no problem. Just use a 3" extension on a universal swivel and you can get it off and on again. Obviously, once flipping the header thread the nuts by hand first. Then use your ratchet, extension, and universal socket and your golden.