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Let me know how you like it. I'm happy with mine.

You would be wise to download the manual and get into Chapter 24 for specific torque specs. The main case bolts are 20 ft-lbs, but the smaller hardware varies a bit from 9-16 ft-lbs. Here is the address to the manual. www.civicx.com/forum/forums/maintenance-servicing-break-in-oil-fluids-technical-docs.18/

@@27Worx thanks bro you help me alot ive been looking for this one

@@gamex9288 Look me up on CivicX forum under @Chris_19Si and let me know how things are going. You can just start a conversation with me to keep it private. I have several threads on that forum that might also be helpful.

I only turn VSA off during the snow, and then only when I'm trying to get through some thicker snow like leaving my driveway or something like that. I always drive on the street with VSA enabled, and especially in the wet weather and driving aggressively. The track is the only place where I turn everything off. As good as the VSA system is at protecting you on the street, it is not tuned or tunable to help me drop time on on a closed course. A novice racer might want to keep things enabled for the first few times out on track, but then they will notice how much Honda is trying to help you be safe and should do the pedal dance to really experience the handling these cars are capable of.

Thanks for your interest! I have rebuilt a bunch of these since that video and have better tooling and better video skills as well. I might remake some videos where I'm not explaining as much so people can see more of the real time that it takes me. I can turn a job around that is just an upgrade in about 3 hours. Add a couple more hours for one that has damage. I'm rebuilding one now that has a blown 4th gear and will get upgraded with RV6 gears and carbon synchros. Pretty simple job so far. Just got a parts washer to make things even faster and made some pretty cool stands for the shop press to help move things along. I made and sold a set of arbor stands for a forum buddy to help with his rebuild. Might make more for people if they get into this stuff. They are pretty handy for general shop press work where you need an elevated platform for shafts and such.

@27Worx that's awesome, I just picked up one of these transmissions for free that needs a rebuild and these videos do help a ton. I'll likely get the rv6 gears while I'm in there, I wish they'd come out with a 1st and 2nd gear before I do. I'm planning on putting the entire ensemble in a 93 civic- I'll definitely be keeping up with any repair videos on the L15 platform

@@TooManyCivics The main shaft has 1-2 gears integrated into the shaft, so any upgraded mating gears would be on material only and not tooth profile without also making the shaft with matching profiles and materials. This is why PPG is good for high power applications and drag racing.

@27Worx ohhh that makes total sense. Glad I could learn something. Transmissions are so daunting, but I felt that way with all other car repairs in the past. Just something I'll have to get over

Have you had a dash cam before? This is my first. I mostly want to use it to add footage to my driving videos and I think it will work just fine for that. It might come in handy for some stuff on my commute as well. Are you going to hardwire it or use the cig lighter cable that comes with it?

I have grown to liking the idea of having one but mostly to capture interesting drives rather than incidents. My commutes are fairly boring most of the time. It's like insurance, better to have it when you really need it. Will get one for my wifes car. She always has stories of stupid drivers and close calls.

Most of the damage from the road is to the lower engine cover, which is made of aluminum. I have to hammer out the damage with every oil change and pull flesh from the joints. It gets a little disgusting at times. The front of the car seems to hold up pretty good. I mostly have black lines from moving cones around on the autocross courses. I just leave them on the bumper cover now to protect the paint from hitting more cones. I call them racing stripes!

That's what I was thinking. Do you just pull that panel?

Just tucked the wires into the plastic trim. Plenty of space to drop into the cavity alongside the door frame and seat back. Easy to open as well.

I just looked it up in the manual and there is a slot for one but you can only transfer files to it. You cannot record to it directly from what I just read. I also don't know the limits of the card. I'll contact the rep that sent the system to me for facts on what card I can use and update this comment when I find out.

@27Worx , thanks for replying. I hope to hear more about this device from you.

@@Linuxworld1968 I searched their website and found some card information. I'll have to see if the few cards I have meet these specs before buying another. www.redtigercam.com/products/copy-of-redtiger-4k-dash-cam-32gb-sd-card-class-10-u3

Several years and about 90,000 miles. Might have got my money out of those.

Sure thing. Adding camber and an alignment in the morning. Should handle even better for the last two events.

Got two built transmissions! I just swapped from my RV6 trans back to the CAPTS trans with a new 5th gear and carbon synchros. Just refreshed my clutch too. Everything is super smooth and Clutch Masters must have revised their FX350 for lighter pedal and smoother engagement. Just need to install the Tein EDFC Active Pro controller for my coilovers to tune the suspension.

I also scored a preproduction CMC from Wunderladen Racing. They put an older CMC with a custom pushrod to get rid of the stock damper. Better pedal feel and no delay in clutch engagement. They also use one longer continuous braided line to get rid of the multi piece factory line. Got the clutch all dialed in too.

@@27Worx Thats cool, so far I like the rv6 gears. The only thing about them is sometimes I feel a pulsation in acceleration with them around 2000 rpms but nothing crazy. It also could be my motor mounts because Ive had the hasport full mount kit for a couple years and the trans mount was sagging so bad it had a gap the thickness of a quarter in the urethane so im sure the drivers side is equally as bad.

@@27Worx hows it feel stiffness wise? Ive had the wilwood one from clutch masters for the past i think 3 years and other than an occasional reservoir leak, its been pretty good but pretty stiff. Nothing you dont get used to though with daily driving.

Yep, mounts could be the problem.

Funny. I drove by a high school band practicing outside.

I don't think I can post pictures here. If you start a conversation with me on Civicx forum, just look up Chris_19si. I can post an image to help you more. The sensor has to be spaced out if you are installing an aftermarket 3rd gear.

Raising the pedal probably changed the timing of your foot and the shifter to improve engagement. Without more information on what you are doing when you do and do not get lockout, it's hard to know if what you did is a real fix or just got lucky. Even with my attempts to be consistent, I was not. Sometimes it would lockout and sometimes not, even though I thought I was repeating things consistently. All I know now is I don't get lockout with the new CMC from Wunderladen Racing, which has no damper. Other than the spring style clutch disc, there are no other dampers in my clutch system.

I'm a little confuse on what you are describing as second gear is cooked and can't find 2nd on the counter shaft anywhere. Perhaps you can correspond with me over the CivicX forum. I go by Chris_19Si. Start a conversation with me or jump on this thread (the-transmission-rebuild-thread) to allow us to swap pictures and such.

@@27Worx I’m currently away from home on an emergency trip, so i wouldn’t be able to take any pictures. But let me contact you via the forums. Thank you

I got your message on Civicx.com.

There are a few questions to review before I can offer any advice. What year make and model car do you have, and how many miles are on the transmission? What specific problems are you having? What power and torque are you running or planning to run? How do you intend to drive the car, like street, drag, autocross, or big track?? Answering these questions will help shape the advice that I can offer.

I was thinking about turning off the autorotate feature on the GP12 camera, which is the video on the top. I want the viewer to be more involved in the ride. I'll try that next time.

Not sure what you mean by a UA-cam short.

@@27Worx A 1 minute vertical format video would be difficult format to manage but, it might reach a different audience.

Got to walk the course several times before the race to figure out the racing line. Walking at 3mph is quite a bit different than driving at 60mph. Everything comes at you so much faster. I'm steering as quickly as I can!

It has very good balance for the street and the track. I have a wheel and tire package for the track which takes advantage of the power, suspension and brakes. Without a sticky tire, there just isn't enough traction on the street to be safe. Fun car for sure. I have 180,000 miles on it already. Great commuter car.

@@27Worx180,000 miles and it’s still that rowdy? Holy shit😂

@mauriceshand2523 Just went over 195,000 miles. Installed coilovers and working with Carbotech for more aggressive brake pads. Need to be able to stop better with the added performance. Fun car for sure.

With our recent weather being low 90's and humid, the intercooler is giving me great and consistent power. My LTFT has been down to -2 and -3 here and there, but power seems just fine.

If you are talking to me, I am not an engine tuner. I buy my tunes through Phearable. Pretty solid tunes.

Great suggestions. Will update it and include another revision to my next video. Got a race this weekend. Might be some footage from that to play with.

I'm on the Phearable 2.5 tune. I just ordered the revision for adding the intercooler. Waiting for a response from them on what the difference is.

@@27Worx hey boss have you heard anything back?

Phearable got back to me to say they don't detune 4th gear, and that it is the peak power gear. The data that I have collected from a run before the tune revision and after says 4th gear boost (PSI) is a couple pounds lower consistently. The pull I did from 30 to 124mph yesterday was stronger than before the revised tune. It feels much stronger than before. Traction control comes on in third gear! I just sent my graphs to Phearable and asked for data on the revision or descriptions of what they did. I'll post that when I get a response. Below is a link to a post with more explanation of my comparison runs. www.civicx.com/forum/threads/prl-intercooler-fmic-v2-with-vargas-turbocharger-technologies-charge-pipes-for-civic-si-my-experience.90105/post-1324478 Chris

Phearable just got back to me. They don't disclose what they did for revisions. I guess you'll just have to accept my word that the $99 was well worth the money. I now have to lean on traction control in 3rd gear if that tells you anything. I did a little pull this morning to 130mph in 5th gear and it scooted along with very linear acceleration. Pretty impressed with how things are going now. We'll see if it translates into lower track times this weekend.

@@27Worx nice nice ill see what im going to do in the future im on ktuner 23 psi map with flex fuel enabled it moves pretty good i also have fmic but dont know how it would get revision for that im also running the cobra with race maf

There's a big difference between stock and flex fuel tunes. I used to see 16psi stock. Fun, but better with a stage 1 tune. You start breaking things on flex fuel, but worth it in my mind.

@@27Worx as long as you got headsetuds and a clutch youll be fine with flex fuel

@@atomram6890 I have a ton of mods and track my car. The added power puts a lot of stress on the car. It's not just the clutch that gets abused, it's the motor mounts, and all of the suspension and brakes as well. To use the power you need traction. With traction comes more speed, requiring better brakes and better suspension. All these higher loads go into bearings, which are not designed for this. There is a big difference between stage 1 and stage 2. If you add that much power and never use it, you will stay reliable. If you use the power, you will be modifying more and more and replacing parts more and more. It's not worth running flex fuel if you don't support the power with all of the other stuff. But, when you pull it all together, boy is it fun!

Still got OEM master cylinder. I was supposed to get one in development from a company to test, but haven't received it yet. My 2-3 shifting is just fine when I'm not using the WOT shifting. Just interested in how this whole setup works and to sort out any issues. The issue could just be me also??

@@27Worx theres a writeup on the forum on how to drill out the cmc like how eman does it. Id check it our. It may solve your issues.

@@JamesAnderson-fw5ew I'm aware of that mod, but never had this issue before try the WOT shifting. I'll just bug Austin at wunderladen racing for his CMC to try. He's already modified the damper and uses a longer braided line to get rid of one connection. He was waiting for something to get one in production for me to test before starting mass production. We'll see if he comes through.

@@27Worx If you have an aftermarket clutch, the soft diaphram in the cmc goes bad after a while and causes lockouts and stuff. Id recommend just trying the mod for now as its relatively cheap and it deletes the diaphram😎

I have a Clutch Masters FX350 with aluminum flywheel. I also have 178,000 miles on the car. If Austin doesn't come through on his CMC, I'll mod the one I have and try again. It's time to flush my clutch/brake lines anyhow. Thanks for the conversation! What ride do you have?

Great! Now my wife is commenting.

Thanks for your interest. I continue to learn how to deal with more issues with these transmissions as more people are having me rebuild them for upgrades, and I am still refining the video recording thing. Getting things setup for a quality video is not very easy. Rebuilding the transmission is much easier than filming and editing.

Looking at the manual, there is a 35mm shim just under the top bearing that should have a clearance of 0.04 - 0.10mm between the bottom of the bearing and the top of 6th gear. Replace the shim with another value if it is outside that range. There are other checks along the way when evaluating parts that you are replacing to ensure the gear stack is dimensionally correct. One thing to note is, the counter shaft is supported at the bearing end with a snap ring between the case and the bearing (groove on the top of the bearing). The bottom of the shaft is supported radially with a needle bearing and not a thrust bearing. So, when you are discussing clearance, the only one that I can come up with is checking between the top bearing and 6th gear. I hope this answers your question. Download the manual off of CivicX.com and look at Section 24, pg. 43.

@@27Worx thank you very much👍🏻

@@27Worx hi, sorry to bother again but for you know the differential preload specs for the 90mm shim? Thank you for your time, your a life saver😎

In the manual, Chapter 1, pg. 67/105, the spec for clearance between the bearing and the case is 0 - 0.003". On my differential in both transmissions, I have never replaced the bearings and could not get a feeler gauge into the space that I believe to be what they want you to check. My process is, I flip the trans upside down with the input shaft pointing up. I use a gallon size paint can to support the diff end. I use a fender washer and long bolt to drop through the diff so I can pry up on the bottom of the diff. I have a magnetic base dial indicator to check for play. I have zero play in both of my transmissions. I recently replaced diff bearings on another rebuild and did the same check, with no play. The next time I dig into a trans I'm going to remove the shim and measure the play to see what it is compared to the thickness of the shim, to know if the shim should be adjusted. I just don't trust the method I have been trying if zero clearance is allowed. There could be a slight bind and wouldn't know it. If you replaced your bearings, set things up the way I described and remove the shim to see if you get the same movement as the shim is thick. This would indicate zero clearance. Any additional movement past the thickness of the shim can be considered more clearance. Stay within the 0.003" and you are good. If you didn't replace the diff bearings, just reassemble and move on.

@@27Worx thank you very much. Ill give it a try.

Thanks for the comments. I got an Apex Pro phone mount, which made the phone video (main video) better than the cheap plastic mount I had before, but the Hasport 82a motor mounts make the whole chassis vibrate. I set a finish point using GPS and when I came close to the finish on a mid-point turn, the app thought I was at the finish, so it stopped logging halfway through on the first run. I removed the finish point and just stopped the logging at the end of the run. If the finish was separated more from nearby turns I might have been able to get lap times from the app. It also doesn't have enough resolution by GPS to catch true speed, but it's handy to map the course and display some data. A more dedicated system would be best, but everything right now is free, so I'll use what I have for now. The GoPro 12 was looking back at us, and the GoPro 4 was on my helmet for the driver's perspective. I will aim those better next time. I have to use the Quick app to see the image on the older camera in order to adjust the angle more. The weather was in the low 40's, so everyone was suffering with cold tires. I ended up with 3rd place in the Street Touring group. They combined all of the Street Touring classes into one group for this venue. As for the clunk. I'm positive it's the wheel hub centering ring. Everything else is new up front and subframe hardware is tight. I'll confirm during the next event. I usually inspect for the rings before mounting the wheels, but this time I was too casual about it. I should have a checklist, but haven't take the time to make one yet. I also used the audio from the GoPro 12, as it had the best quality. I resolved my headliner vibration issue a week ago with some foam near the metal clips, where the headliner is supported by the roof frame. Worked great!

Synchrotech has carbon synchros sold as rings only or a master kit with bearings, sleeves, seals, and springs. For the mileage you stated, you might consider the master kit so you have a fresh rebuild. I've noticed mush smoother shifting at high rpm with these synchros. Stock brass rings are not going to slow the gears down quick enough for smooth engagement. The intent for this video series was for me to practice making videos and to help our community. If people are breaking gears, they should add a shop press for a few hundred dollars to do the work themselves. My press has come in handy for several projects. I just added an anti lift kit and used it to press the old bushings off the control arms. I'm also rebuilding transmissions for friends and have been using it quite a bit for that. Keep me posted on how things go. I'm also on CivicX.com as Chris_19Si if you want to see more discussion on transmission and speedometer calibration units.

Yep. Position the trans so the end with the snap ring is lower than the rest of the trans. I normally just hang it off the edge of my bench, but not so it will slip off. Then grab a soft blow mallet and smack the case on the corners where the case is strong, not the flat part. Just trying to get the shaft to move a little for the ring to capture the groove on the bearing. The bearing is actually holding the shaft to one end, where it puts the gears in better alignment with the main shaft.

Let me know when you got it or if you don't understand what I wrote before. Might have to show a picture or something.

@@27WorxI’ve tried a similar strategy and was unsuccessful, i’ve even put a carpet down on the ground and lightly tapped the bottom of the case against it and still cannot seem to get it to move. it didn’t seem to give me any trouble when slipping the case on, and there is no debris or anything that would obstruct the bearing from coming further up. i’m sort of stuck and not sure what else to do

@@gamingwithlex799 is this your first time rebuilding a transmission? I have to assume you watched my build series to see the details and functional checks. Did you check for the main shaft end play? Did you mock the shafts up and torque the case bolt to make sure the main shaft isn't in a bind? Did you press the gears on the counter shaft all the way? Those are a few questions.

@@27Worx It was my first time doing a rebuild and I followed your video series thoroughly as it was very helpful, all of the following steps were done except for the main shaft end play and I had contacted rv6 to see if it was needed for their gears and they said it wasn’t necessary. case is bolted together and I installed the shift linkage as well as detent springs and ran through the pattern and spun the input shaft, every gear engaged flawlessly but it makes some noise which i believe is the rubbing between some of the gears due to the countershaft not being seated properly

I have two built transmissions. This one has RV6 gears and synchrotech carbon synchronizers along with other gears that are cryo treated and REM polished. My other trans is built with CAPTS gears and I'm putting carbon synchros in that one now. The car is heavily modified and tuned on flex fuel. Lots of fun!

@@27Worx it sounds dialed in!! I have a 2015 manual accord coupe with the j series v6, looking forward to modifying it!

@@brettmclellan7567 very cool. A buddy of mine that autocrosses with me has a manual Accord like yours. He's got it tricked out, but still sporting an open diff. Sucks to see all the smoke from that one tire. Just needs an LSD to put the power down.

My car is heavily modified, and too much to discuss in comments. I'm on CivicX.com as Chris_19Si. You can see most of what I have done there. I'm starting to post more driving videos to show off the new gears and carbon synchros so people wanting this upgrade know what they are getting into. I have another transmission with CAPTS gears that I also use. I'm upgrading it again now. I'm still learning how to film and edit, so any tips on that would be great! Need to fix that damn headliner rattle soon. Hasport mounts is where most of the cabin noise comes from.

Yep. I take this way to ditch the highway sometimes. Roads are pretty good and traffic is usually light so I can drive a little more aggressively.

The GoPro 12 has some options to get it started that I'm exploring. I think I can tell it to start, but haven't tried it yet. The reach around is cumbersome. The infotainment screen can be turned off by simply pressing the brightness button at the top left twice. Can't see it, so just reach for it. On the 2019 it's there. Not sure about other years. I'll look into a clip on mic and look for the Pro Settings to adjust for nighttime. As for the suction mount, I already have the extension. Still can't clear the mirror. Got to think of another way to record me driving and see out front for track time. Maybe mount the phone to the windshield and GoPro focused on in car stuff?? Thanks for the comments!

Hmm... I have also played with where is the best place to mount a camera. If you really want quality stuff you need more than just one angle sadly. I tried a few different perspectives: - My go to is on the windscreen just under the mirror facing the road. It is good because it's the most stable and best for looking at actual driving technique (unless you mount a camera outside the car) - Driver side window mounted at head height is good because of the view of steering and shifting. (you also get to see the side of your face) - On the side/front of a helmet is great for head position and showing g forces. You can see body movement clearly and it captures hand position ok. That FPV look can be nice. - Attached to the moonroof is good for if you want to do a bit of everything but it's not the best for NVH. - Placing the camera on front glass facing inwards is great for eye tracking and watching hand/body position.

@@Newwinggarage I have tried several places also, but with only one camera. I have my phone that I can use also, and then do a PIP with the Davinci Resolve software to add the in car shot. Perhaps use the GoPro centered up high near the rear view mirror and the Phone for in car stuff. I'll have to see which camera shakes the most and put the GoPro there since it has much better stabilization than the Google Pixel 8 Pro phone that I have. I have a Bluetooth shutter release for my phone too, so that should help. I'm still a beginner with Resolve, but it's a super nice video editing package for free. I may also edit the video above with Resolve to brighten it up a little and swap them out. I upgraded my spare trans with RV6 gears and carbon synchros. This is why I commented on shifting faster. I just got through the break in period to pull gears faster. Very smooth! I'm upgrading my CAPTS trans to add 5th gear and carbon synchros right now. Already have 3-4. I'm trying to get back to the big track by making 3-5 gears stronger and more reliable. Autocross is fun, but I really enjoyed running around at higher speeds and improving my driving using laps on a permanent track.

I'm on CivicX forum under @Chris_19Si if you want to start a private conversation. I don't have an Instagram account, at least I don't think I do.

I'm surprised to hear you need to replace your hubs. Are you sure it's the hubs or just the sleeves? Synchrotech sells the sleeves separately, or included in a Master Kit, along with carbon synchros and bearings, but they don't seem to supply the hubs. I'd call them to be sure there isn't a compatible part from a different series transmission that they do sell. Honda seems to package their hubs with other parts for an assembly, but very expensive if you only need one of the parts. Again, I'd confirm with the builder they they actually need new hubs before spending a bunch more money. With my understanding, the sleeves would be the high wear part in that assembly, with the hubs only used in sliding, not ever in engagement like the sleeves. Keep in mind, the brass synchro rings only slow the parts down enough for the sleeves to climb onto the side teeth of the gears. The wear and tear should be limited to the braking surface of the synchro rings and the sleeves as they make their way onto the side teeth. The hubs just transfer torque. The torque path is from the input shaft to a gear, then to the an output shaft gear to the teeth, which are on the side of that gear, then to the sleeve, to the hub, to the output shaft, out to the diff, and ultimately to the pavement!

Funny. Maybe I'll model some other clothing. Ha ha ha.