Відео

Thanks! It’s nice to finally feel like we’re making progress. We’re pretty stalled by the cold weather, but that can’t last forever, right?!

Curiosity isn't rude - it drives almost everything I do! For work, I've spent the past 10 years at a software company called ServiceNow - the most recent five in product management. Prior to that I designed and operated a colocation data center - multi-megawatt AC power, mission critical, fault tolerant. Prior, more software, product development, systems integrations... you get the idea. For my entire life though, I've been passionate about what makes things work and especially what will make the work "better" with that definition changing as my interests have. Curiosity has driven me to be a lifelong learner and researcher. I think the underlying question that anyone would be nervous about asking is do I have any idea what I'm doing? I'm happy to say that I do. Our insurance has some specific requirements that we'll meet - one of which is that we have someone with an ABYC cert deeply involved. I'm a member and use the standards extensively to plan and execute the work we're doing but, I'm not the last word in making sure we're safe.

@@SailingRoam Thanks for an honest and open answer. I have a electrical trade and electronics background. I just see so many people out there on UA-cam land giving advise or showing what they are doing without any background or actual understanding of what they are doing. It scares the crap out of me with many of them. Here in Oz we have very strict written electrical standards not only for AC but DC installations such as Lithium installations in RV/caravans and boats. Most DIYs have no concept of what is required. Will follow your channel and see how things go. One suggestion - dont overthink things. :) The KISS principle rules.

I completely understand where you're coming from! In the states we lack good adherence to standards and I'm amazed at what goes on even in boat yards. My datacenter had a 48v DC system with 2500 amp rectifiers for telco and the first thing I learned from our electricians is that it would kill me just as effectively as the 480v AC mains!

Thanks for this! Some great reminders and definitely some new ideas. When it comes to any power system, I'm no hero and my respect for electricity is so deep it could be called paranoia! I have a pretty thorough plan but it sounds like you have some excellent experience and insights. If you're up for a chat send me a note on fb messenger and we can figure out how to connect.

Thanks for watching!

We’ve definitely pushed this car harder than it wants! Not bad for a vehicle with over 250,000 miles that’s been ride hard and put away wet its entire life!

When it’s done we’ll put a page on our website with every little detail. As much time as sailors spend discussing power supply, we fully expect to answer tons of questions. That’s the fun part!

I looked at them and saw the same thing you did - they're space efficient and I think pretty well made. The issue for us (and i think every not superyacht) is space to install them correctly. In a previous life I operated a data center and so know quite a bit about rack mount equipment installation. Those systems are counting on a specific orientation for airflow and expecting a supply of cool (or at least not recirculated) air to operate correctly. As big as our boat is, we just don't have an appropriate space for a rack mounted setup. Add to that the batteries are still going to weigh around 360kg (800lbs) and having that in a vertical stack is a much bigger impact on the balance of our boat than spreading it horizontally.

I'm not planning to box the assembled 16 cell batteries individually. Rather, I'll be enclosing the entire group of 80 in the fitted space in the battery compartment. This will leave me with one long edge that's free and I'll use composite board with blocking to the forward structural bulkhead go ensure there isn't any room for cell expansion. We'll have thermostat controlled cooling in the space - we have AirCon ducting above the batteries for the salon and I'll add a servo actuated gate to flow air into the battery compartment as needed. In most cases we'll just need to flow ambient air in and get the hot air out through a couple grills at the top of the compartment but we'll be able to run conditioned air in if needed and to manage humidity.

We were making great progress but a cold snap is hitting tonight for a week or more. Too cold for fiberglass, fairing, paint, epoxy. You get the idea. We’re going to focus on sanding and see if we can get the rest of it done so when the weather breaks we can paint.

We did go a bit overboard on a few things, qtips being one of them! 🤣

Thank you!

I was concerned about the heat affected zone as well and discussed at length with out welder. Our welder is a welding instructor in coastal VA and teaches the guys who go on to the shipyards and work on Navy ships. He addressed the heat affected zone by not heating up any one area for long. He added a little filler to a hole and moved on to another area far enough away that heated area remained extremely small. It takes longer but it's required if your going to maintain strength. I like the idea of plugging with aluminum dowel - I didn't think of that but will keep it in my pocket for the future. I've used a lot of closed end rivnuts in the past and like them. I hadn't considered using them on the mast but it's a good idea. Are there any in particular that you like? We have the folding aluminum mast steps everyone sells and they're just okay - they do the job but they're hell on feet... Did you machine your own or design and have a shop do the work?

@SailingRoam I machined the steps on at my shop on my Haas VF3. When the steps are closed, they are completely smooth, so no lines will get caught on them. I put a radius on all edges, so they are basically like a bubble or shell sticking off the mast when closed. I machined the base of the steps to perfectly match the radius of the mast so there wasn't any gap. Another option for mounting things to the mast is welding on aluminum studs. A few years ago, I purchased a capacitor discharge stud welder for mounting electrical boxes and conduit straps inside of shipping containers, and since then, I have found a million other uses for it. I have a variety of different types and sizes of studs, including stainless steel and aluminum. The stud welder works instantly with a practically nonexistent heat affected zone. Those would be perfect for attaching things to the mast without making any holes.

Wow! A VF3 is a serious piece of equipment! With the new 3D printer, I’ve been designing almost every night and working with a local machine shop to produce some custom parts. My next design project is custom pulleys so for our new alternators so they can make full output near idle. Balmar’s pulley kit doesn’t give the belt enough contact radius on the alternator pulley so I’m planning a four pulley configuration with a tensioning idler to get a 70% - 80% wrap and run with lower tension. I’ve seen stud welders but have no experience with them. Seems like a great option.

LOL, we’re pretty sure this boat needs another T on the end to make it ten thousand.

Ding ding ding

Nope. Will reveal in part 2.

Hey you two!! Where are you now? Did you get your boat sold pretty quickly?

@ yes sold quickly. We are currently in FL. 😉

I hope you faired ok during the hurricanes this fall.

We think it’s because the drain from the coach roof dumps behind that panel at the corner of the window. We’re going to drill a hole at the back to let the water out. Hopefully that will fix the problem.

Thank you! We’re trying to do everything the “right” way. It does take longer, but in the end we’ll have what we want. Looking forward to that day for sure!

We’re pretty sure there isn’t anywhere for the water from the coach roof drain to go. We’ll put in a weep hole and see if that does the trick.

Funny you should ask that…we had a contract on a new build and were well down that path when we backed out of our contract. So many boat builders are having trouble with quality on the new boats. We decided to go this route so we could be certain of what we have and know we can count on the quality of our work. We didn’t anticipate having quite so much to do…our surveyor did a crappy job but was our only choice in Guatemala. Regardless, we’re in it now and when we’re done it will be exactly what we want. Just have to push through to the end!

@@SailingRoam I get that. Can't stop now. Shawn is so knowledgeable and you are a great support system and assistant. Hope it all works out and you are on your way soon!

@ Thanks! We’re trying hope so too!!

It's good to know those tools are still going strong! Such a clever tool!

Thanks for subscribing! That was such a fun experience. The looks we got from other boaters as we made our way back to ROAM were hilarious!

Never heard of screw grab so thanks for that! I've ordered a bottle and look forward to trying it out. As for specialty, and more importantly, crimpers - I have a few :) The most recent is a JRReady ACT-M202 - It's a small handled Deutsch HDT-48-00 crimper. I have big hands but, the standard sizer HDT-48-00 is so big even I need two hands to operate it. This smaller version let's me crimp with one hand so I can use the other hand to hold the wire in place.

@SailingRoam I have everything from TE connectivity. Years ago, when I bought my first Hdt-48-00, I bought it from Craigslist. When I met the seller I found out he worked at the factory in Hemet California. I would go buy whatever he had every couple of months. That ended when they closed the factory in 2019.

Have you seen the impact driver that fits in an air hammer? I purchased one about 6 months ago, it has saved me on many occasions. It works like the regular impact driver you used in this video except it's driven by an air hammer instead of a regular hammer. The high-speed blows make a major difference.

I haven't seen that but it sounds like a life saver! I haven't planned to have any air onboard (save a dive tank compressor) as we would have extremely limited use for it. Hopefully we won't need to use the manual impact much for a good long while either!

@SailingRoam They make an adapter regulator for scuba tanks just for running air tools or filling tires. It might not be a bad idea to keep one on the boat. You can get them for $60-$80. You can use air tools under water in an emergency. I previously owned a swimming pool repair business, and I was always changing out lights and drain grills. Oftentimes, the retaining screws would snap off in rings embedded in the plaster. I would drill them out under water using a $15 disposable air drill.

Thanks! It’s a big job for sure! We can’t wait to show y’all putting something back in to the boat!

Never heard of her 😆

Seriously! That impact driver saved us a lot of headache trying to free those screws. So glad you enjoyed the video!

Thanks for the suggestion! We’ll check it out.

@SailingRoam Line-X was also used on the Pentagon after 9-11 and on the Ministry of Defense in London. Coating the exterior of block walls makes them blast resistant. It was also used to coat the armor plates worn by troops in their ballistic vests.

That’s my concern as well. I plan to sand the hull all the way around and inspect for holes or cracks but, I think if there were any, the water would have leaked back out while we were on the hard as I didn’t get into this until we’d been high and dry for few months.

I have to admit I was VERY ready to do something else…anything else!

We try not to be religious about tool brands but keeping it all in the same family is necessary for battery powered. I’m not sure what we need to do around the sail drive collar. Don’t like having a place for water to collect that I can’t see or drain but I don’t think I can fill with foam without drilling quite a few more holes. I’ll have to do more digging and see if I can get a bore scope in there to see what I’m working with.

I like your thinking! I have two now and will likely get a third as we have two hulls with separate engine rooms and I’d hate to have to go searching just when I need one!

Thank you so much for watching! We tried hard to ensure this Annapolis Boat Show vid wasn’t the same as all the others. We’re glad you got value from it and Rich Borden is the bomb! The 542 is a bit of a unicorn with only 15 left in the world. We’d love it if it become known for the amazing vessel she is!

I can see how that could be a problem. Out of curiosity, what kind of boat do you have? We are in a boat with a uniquely huge amount of space.

@ custom built 60ft sloop 25 years old. Limited amount of room in a lot of places. I think it’s a great tool and certainly has its place in every tool box but I can’t see it replacing all hose clamps, definitely not on our boat. I do however have a bag of about 100 assorted stainless steel hose clamps at the ready!!!

@ As we start reinstalling everything during our refit, we’ll certainly show where it works and where it doesn’t.

Saving money on hose clamps is really the smallest part of this. In the grand scheme of things, we'd likely use ~$1k worth of hose clamps and, while that's a lot of money, it's not a lot in the grand scheme of this refit. I don't know what' ABYCs stance is on wire hose clamps but I do know they have requirements around the width of the hose clamp band based on the diameter of the hose. Given that I can make this as wide as I like and a solid band by wrapping multiple times, I think they'd have to have a specific call out against using this type of hose clamp. As for corrosion, we're using 316 SS wire which is the same grade stainless as the best hose clamps and better than most that are 304. I think we'll see how they hold up over time and you can count on us reporting back on the experience as we go!

After a little research, I've found that ABYC H-33 Diesel Fuel Systems, specifically, 33.11.9.2 - Hose clamps shall be reusable. In context, this only applies to diesel fuel systems. All other references to hose clamps indicate specific width, location in relation to the fitting the hose is attached to, or the material being at least 300 series stainless steel. Based on this, wire clamps attached with a Clamptite tool should pass survey for everything except fuel systems and only because they're not reusable.

And it is time for a glow up!

@ What I find most interesting is that with so much evolution and innovation, people are looking for things that were used 40 to 50 years ago. There are a lot of things that were the best that existed, but they were discarded for other things that could go faster and sell more

You’re so right! It seems like the world of marine “stuff” is so antiquated.

@@SailingRoam The only thing on boats that should have already changed is the system voltage from 12v/24v DC to 48v DC. the rest is simply enjoying the boat you have.

Haha, and that change is one we’re doing!

It was great hanging out with you guys! We think the smart 100 is going to be a good fit for us when we get to that stage of putting things back together. We had a great conversation with the folks at Forespar (Marelon) and learned a lot. Our boat came with Truedesign valves and I haven’t been impressed with them. Multiple valves had had failed and others had loose(failed) threads at the thru-hull and even though the design says it can be serviced, I don’t have confidence in the materials. Marelon though has an excellent reputation for extremely long life - over 20-years and still working like new in some cases and their Pro-Series allows us to configure the design we want to make it most efficient. Wait until you see what I’m doing with the raw water I takes for the aircon! I love my messenger bag! Ugo hit it out of the park on that one!

Thanks! We have a playlist with the first 5 videos of our refit already up on UA-cam. Many more to follow!! ua-cam.com/play/PLVjtcYwEjn_wzmEeGB2wocsT-nQQAONbp.html&si=M0in5Sq0caFUNfDY

You’re not wrong! Hopefully we’ll be reinstalling the replacement hoses by the dead of winter 😂

Lucky! If we were going to replace our tank, the rhino lining is a great idea. Fortunately the tank itself is still good. One of very few things we’re not replacing!

ALL the fun! 😂

Much better than poo! Any thoughts on how to avoid the calcium buildup in the new hoses?

@@SailingRoam Well an old method without too much chemicals is simple vinegar . It breaks down the calcium crystals and is not harmful (if used in moderate amounts) to the environment . However to do this on a boat I have no experience . You may can pump some vinegar into the system and let it sit for a while and then flush it out .

Thanks for the suggestion. Looks like I have a bit of research in my future!

Anything to make the job less messy. Thanks for watching!

You’re not wrong. Next time…

It was seriously so gross! At this point we’re done with the really dirty stuff. Phew!

So gross! A job like that makes sanding so much more tolerable!

Thank you! We’re so glad you enjoyed it! Next episode is fun stuff, then definitely back to the hard work.

You are so right! It was a bad call to be bare-handed. Fortunately the worst of the dirty work is behind us now.

We love this boat. The 542 is really special. Ours is hull #6, 2013. We were just at the Annapolis Boat Show and saw the new Nautitech 48. It’s fantastic!

That’s a great idea and one we hadn’t considered. Now it’s on the list. I’m (Geri) super sensitive to molds, so whatever we can do to reduce exposure is aces in my eyes. Thanks for the suggestion!

🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻🤣