Відео

@bennyc-qg6rd Ha ha! I know how that goes. My brother and I always quote the mechanic's line from the movie "Doc Hollywood" when he hands Michael J. Fox the box of parts at the end: "There's always extra parts when I put them back together." If you are inspired it's not that pricey to get the tools these days. Glad your PT is cruising happily.

Nice work on your Stratus @dannyreed1632. Since I made this video I have noticed that the belt tensioners I purchased do seem to have more rotation to them which offers better slack in the belt to loop it over the tensioner after you've run it around the Cam Gears. There are certainly more that one way to get the job done but I do wonder if the quality and manufacturing of the aftermarket belt tensioners has changed over time due to how tight I have seen them be in the past. More recently I've had a much easier/quicker time installing the timing belt on several PTs similar to what you described in your post. I find the best way (my current favorite) is a hybrid process using the factory installation process in combination with several vice-grips to hold the camshafts from spinning once you get them in alignment and the belt installed. This has been working much better for me. Thanks again!

@jaiydenbeard7566 Hello - the fuel filter/strainer is located inside the Fuel Pump Assembly which is located inside the Gas Tank. The specific Pump/Assembly you purchase must match the Year/Model of your PT Cruiser so you'll want to cross-check your PTs assembly date. You can purchase/replace just the Fuel pump + Filter/Strainer (prices on RockAuto vary from $20 - $50): www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chrysler,2004,pt+cruiser,2.4l+l4+turbocharged,1432934,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256 However, since you have to follow the same process to replace the entire Fuel Pump Assembly it may make more sense just to do that (prices on RockAuto vary from $37 - $200): www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chrysler,2004,pt+cruiser,2.4l+l4+turbocharged,1432934,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump+&+housing+assembly,10147

Okay thx I’ve got a 2003 pt cruiser gt turbo and was trying to figure out where it was located. Where can I find everything else I need found the fuel pump but no where for fuel filter

Do you think it’s my fuel pump or fuel filter causing the vehicle to run fine sometimes and rough idle and reset the car when you come to a stop sign or just completely die,but will crank right back up. Going to put fuel pressure gauge on first to check as well.

Anything else that I need as far as my cart

@@jaiydenbeard7566 The symptoms you describe could very well point to a failing/clogged Fuel Pump or system. In addition to replacing the Fuel Pump I would remove & check/clean all of the Fuel Injectors (not that hard to do but does require Upper Intake Manifold Removal). If you do this make sure to replace the Fuel Injector O-Rings while you are in there: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2650436&cc=1412468&pt=13679&jsn=932 Something I would also do while you have the fuel lines disconnected at both ends and the gas tank off is blow compressed air through the line to make sure it is not clogged/plugged anywhere. I was going to edit my first post to say that I used 2004 as the year so I'm glad you rechecked for 2003 - and specifically for the Turbo Model. 2003 is a specific one-off year for some parts so it looks like you have a more limited selection of Fuel Pumps & Assemblies to choose from. That's ok - it means you are less likely to choose the wrong one. If I were you I would order an entire Fuel Pump & Housing Assembly such as this one for your year: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6326520&cc=1412468&pt=10147&jsn=920 That will give you the Housing, Pump, Filter, and a new rubber gasket for the whole thing and that is what I replace in this video. As far as parts/accessories you may want on hand for the repair you might want to have some fuel-rated 3/8-inch hose just in case you have to replace any. a.co/d/j7dJ4rg You will certainly be taking some good steps in keeping your PT running well for years to come doing this work, but there are a couple of other potential issues that could cause the rough idle/stalling you are describing that I would check while you are doing this: 1. Check that your Turbo + Intake Manifold Vacuum/Booster lines are all connected properly, not cracked or leaking. A vacuum leak could certainly be at play. If you haven't added a Vacuum/Boost Gauge to your PT it would be highly recommended to help you monitor these. Something like this: a.co/d/eghZIoJ These videos I posted might help you with identifying the Vacuum/Boost Lines and also doing a Boost/Leak test: ua-cam.com/video/eaBBMzvj2Io/v-deo.htmlsi=IVhyVuf8yTojKClP ua-cam.com/video/wRrg93SP1K4/v-deo.htmlsi=hkj9bzN-O7yuEkkt 2. Check your spark plugs to make sure they are not damaged/fouled or in some way malfunctioning. If you are getting irregular spark that could also cause some of the symptoms you described. The spark plug condition will also give you some idea of how well your engine is running (rich, lean, etc.) A nice in-line spark plug tester: a.co/d/4u9dOn4 3. Make sure to check for any engine codes that might have been thrown. Here is a simple way to check those without a scanner: ua-cam.com/video/PvKJzYK9q6c/v-deo.htmlsi=4pOLEvtOrLn26zLb I hope this helps. Shane of PTBubbles

That's awesome that you can powdercoat - I am sure that is going to look fantastic! To be honest I am not totally happy with either the process I used, or perhaps it is the actual paint brand (ERA). I used the same brand of Engine Paint on the engine and transmission that I used on the calipers and exterior body (for the lime green shade). The paint is having some flaking/peeling issues even though the block and transmission were thoroughly cleaned and prepped for paint. Pretty frustrating. But the process I used was basically: • engine was cleaned at machine shop during rebuild there • then I used a wire brush to really clean the crud off of the bolt on parts and transmission • used brake cleaner to help clean off grease/fluid/etc. • used acetone to wipe down • used a blow torch (in some places) to try to burn off fluids, grease, etc. • apply the paint Perhaps there's a better way I need to try for future projects. FYI - if you have the plastic intake you may want to keep that - it has better air flow than the cast aluminum and is preferred by performance enthusiasts. 😁 It was a Chrysler/Mopar upgrade in the PT. If I recall ModernPerformance sells a throttle body for the plastic intake as well.

Here are a few links for you: Aluminum Intake for PT Cruiser Turbo: www.ebay.com/itm/315378718161?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&srsltid=AfmBOooXSq1v58tmLdgPz9BgR61xk7gVq80ahHNYD2PzhleSek_7AsWbBrk Plastice Manifold Swap: ua-cam.com/video/tkGq_hu-a94/v-deo.htmlsi=9wDkaTraK1nZ9UmN Good thread on PT Intake Manifolds from AllPar: www.allpar.com/threads/pt-intake-manifolds.226195/ Jerry (username 421 SD Poncho) there really knows his stuff on PTs and he mentions that the plastic manifold gets abut 10HP more than the aluminum.

@philsowers If I am correct I do believe the coolant threads in the Transmission are 1/8" NPT. Here are links to the adapters I got at the time if that helps (FYI - Evil Energy has tons of great AN adapters and more): a.co/d/0zpfJtK a.co/d/0HZIinr If they are not 1/8" NPT then they might be 1/4" NPT - but I'm pretty sure they are 1/8" NPT. If I get a chance I'll check the fittings and 2nd transmission I have today to be sure.

Hey @philsowers Like you I happened to get my Power Steering Line rubber isolators off of a separate set I had. So junkyard or Rockauto.com have been my go to for the Power Steering lines thus far. That being said - perhaps you can fabricate something yourself (sounds like you did with the Harbor Freight supplies). But here are some handy items that might help with fabricating something as well: www.amazon.com/Separator-Aluminum-Mounting-Divider-Fitting/dp/B07YY9GRC6/ref=sr_1_6?crid=YV7NI9TYB33X&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.gfjE07rDSc8h7OG-hi16rv4BKe0AIuUk4s5IUy3u4pHbyjZB7yetT86kyiY9frwGrfTWXglMuAP3vDwQROKEcArxnKQ1PlAXplaXPHnGwz9akWMKVXahkvzKl5EfQ62jK6bDG3vPehhpGweU8fjxwDk1uWndHpaaz_OvV03r2aExcqmFN3tbO_mlA5u9V6z6-RFokn9NPiOU8fZkX4yVQkMcf9yFKoQFyLA0tlOoLjYWZJNodJgahvNUeq6SYY70K5k1-NA5nfgIpW1nwoHrcFcONRrnyzDyFi5Raici-7U.LTA3GXbWmKrx3UmcuQjK0tdsUnjLuLj2krGYjeAssuM&dib_tag=se&keywords=3%2F8+hose+clamp+dual&qid=1723565201&sprefix=3%2F8+dual+hose+%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-6 www.amazon.com/ZIPCCI-Cable-Assortment-Stainless-Cushion/dp/B0C53S4F76/ref=sxin_16_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.73b3a002-bc15-4db6-aa39-62f45d9e7e0d%3Aamzn1.sym.73b3a002-bc15-4db6-aa39-62f45d9e7e0d&crid=1N0XZNFD2ZFQ1&cv_ct_cx=dual%2Brubber%2Bhose%2Bclamp&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.3eQWLTiJ6hILk9dzqOnBkzMJ7QLGO7W15lv6uhoupYof9WfdPYEjvVMQzYHzXXBK7RW7XfHmq8Tkw0dCg9T9363Pew1T4laTHxuvQskEqvk.yiyT7sSnSD38zhHpWyQUFfEyXit_P7y4o4KhXy7tkpQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=dual%2Brubber%2Bhose%2Bclamp&pd_rd_i=B0C53S4F76&pd_rd_r=d0c0662c-1aec-4cdc-b19b-ae7aaf1c9210&pd_rd_w=CQJXj&pd_rd_wg=NiEbA&pf_rd_p=73b3a002-bc15-4db6-aa39-62f45d9e7e0d&pf_rd_r=D01TH541WTYB7EHG638C&qid=1723565356&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=dual%2Brubber%2Bhose%2Bclamp%2Caps%2C185&sr=1-5-364cf978-ce2a-480a-9bb0-bdb96faa0f61-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1

@@PTBubbles Yup, i've got some separators, as well as those rubber clamps, so I'm sure I'll get something to work until it's time to upgrade.

Hello @philsowers - good to hear from you. Those annoying camera rolling black lines are due to the LED Shop lights I am using. Ever since I got the very bright 190Watt set they do that on all my cameras if they are close. I haven't figured out the best way to avoid that other than try to keep them farther away or pointed slightly off...but then it gets darker...so...darnit. Here are several links that might help you with the Oil/Coolant line replacements - I like the Braided style: ModernPerformance - OEM Turbo System Components www.modernperformance.com/product/oem-turbo-system-components-03-05-neon-srt-4-03-07-pt-cruiser-gt/03-07-pt-cruiser-gt-turbo-upgrades-and-accessories ModernPerformance Cooling Lines: www.modernperformance.com/category/03-07-pt-cruiser-gt-engine-cooling-system ModernPerformance Oil Lines: www.modernperformance.com/category/03-07-pt-cruiser-gt-engine-oiling-system eBay Braided Line kit (I know it's eBay...and this is not the same seller I got mine from (looks like they are no longer on eBay)...but I did get my Braided set off of eBay) www.ebay.com/itm/222694984176?itmmeta=01J566RN8VTX9NDGYZKMEX1ZA3&hash=item33d9a7c9f0:g:-8MAAOSwjodaA8KP&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkq2z1b2Cln6iOOErRz0PgYZwL5mJNbYQfh74128gdJWAwEaEABr2B4Ek%2Fe6KV5FoF6oYqBbbEP2qkpt%2BwTVsT4pNLJ1Cma8ozpiRSIeY3jZFSN5iqEhsRs0TfV%2BCcxip1%2BB13lSy2%2FcnU5DLrv%2FuJZot%2BWcDoyabeVJsWFnKC5xV0ETwEVRUib3oCByI1eemyRDLQbB%2FZQPLp4HNOnGd1RGrDzlQx7A3dTYbjD7bI4ttzrJmpFdKgryJ7fTVMl1mnwF1iCRqvjWAyyvOF8N67hwX9KMi%2BZO2QZ0q3vRrStC3moILxHO72sxfd861FuZ0U%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMvtTixqlk

I don't have the specific time - I might be able to add it up based on the footage I took. But in general I'd say the entire job was done within a weeks span.

Your comment doesn't help or do anyone any good. Several thoughts: • These days a shop might easily charge around $1000 or more for a job like this - or (as they told one of my family) just tell you that your motor is blown and you need a whole new one. If that's what you want to deal with then feel free. • For ANY older vehicle (PTs can fall in the 20+ years old category now) it is incredibly valuable for owners to know how to do repairs themselves and to simply get more familiar with their car all around so that you are more knowledgeable about it and better prepared to handle unexpected situations or emergencies. • It's a good thing not to be clueless and scared of your car if something goes wrong. • I find (as others do) great joy and fulfillment out of using my own two hands to fix something and enjoy the "fruits of my labor" - i.e. - happily driving around after solving an issue on my car myself. You cannot place enough value on the reward of self-accomplishment. And lastly - if you were to actually do this repair I am sure you would discover that it is not as bad as you think/react. Just go slow and careful.

@raypalise4512 The slide-hammer method is a possibility and one I have tried in the past. Limited space/access and the design of how the Driver Side CV Axle enters the Transaxle in the PT are the factors that lead to my choice to grind a slot into the CX Axle so that I can use a pry-bar to pop it out. Due to the space/angle and design of the CV Axle you may also need to modify your slide hammer to get a good hook/grab on the CV Axle. Another deciding factor is whether or not you are going to re-use the CX Axle. If you plan/need to, then you won't want to use the grinding method which destroys the CV Axle. If you are replacing the CV Axle (as I am in all the videos I've made) then I would argue the grinding method is definitely the fastest/easiest.

@dfharris03 There would be a lot more work involved to pull the motor. I would not recommend it unless you have other reasons and a need to pull the motor to do other work or repairs.

Exactly! Indeed! So many meanings for the term, huh? 😁

@catlady8324 Congrats on the PT deal! I typically go to Rockauto.com for most parts I need. Here are some links to parts that should help you (I'm guessing on some based on what you described as the PT needing). Should you eventually need additional parts for steering, suspension, brakes...and almost everything else I'd just stick to RockAuto unless it is one of the rare cases that they don't carry the part: Ignition Switch: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=943191&cc=1398753&pt=4700&jsn=912 Lock Cylinder (super cool version that learns from your existing keys): www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9770160&cc=1398753&pt=10041&jsn=939 Timing Belt Kit (this version has the upgraded version 2 Mechanical Tensioner as well as the Water Pump and Camshaft Seals) www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7680820&cc=1398753&pt=5759&jsn=1040 Full Upper end Gasket kit (I prefer the FelPro kits and have not had the issue of the wrong style Cylinder Head gasket that comes in some kits): www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=446938&cc=1398753&pt=5416&jsn=1051&optionchoice=0-0-1-1 NOTE: Probably a good idea to replace the Crankshaft Front seal (you'll almost be there with the Timing Belt/Water Pump replacement and it is behind the Crankshaft Sprocket) Oil Pan Gasket: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=447505&cc=1398753&pt=5436&jsn=1068&optionchoice=0-0-1-1 Oil Pump (in case there are issues or low oil pressure): www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5541771&cc=1398753&pt=5564&jsn=1063 IMPORTANT EXTRAS: Here are some other videos to help you go over the entire PT making it ready and roadworthy for many years to come: Cleaning up the Engine Wiring (grounds and positive connections): ua-cam.com/video/oXGrD9_JFKc/v-deo.htmlsi=eSWqt-jMkrrlnJeD Cylinder Head Gasket, Timing Belt and much more: ua-cam.com/video/k_FGSxjAo90/v-deo.html Heater Core and A/C Evaporator (in case you might have leaking from either): ua-cam.com/video/k_FGSxjAo90/v-deo.html 6 Episode Series I made for Brakes, Suspension, Steering: ua-cam.com/video/EN89erGQUBU/v-deo.htmlsi=i8v2xVAMJbxkKxFm ua-cam.com/video/72WFVWLfKVw/v-deo.htmlsi=KQFXqgwD05JNNq4S ua-cam.com/video/sYMpQVGY5Hw/v-deo.htmlsi=0297J1JYZiZRUwL8 ua-cam.com/video/HDckRsyQBAQ/v-deo.htmlsi=E1QlQ8SiGJEV0ylt ua-cam.com/video/TEXGqvBxO1w/v-deo.htmlsi=pHIJmEaxd_AX-DJQ ua-cam.com/video/CohqjAr_Uzw/v-deo.htmlsi=K5QHLLbourMCxEVY Gas Tank & Fuel Pump Replacement: ua-cam.com/video/WrGVbdk_-II/v-deo.htmlsi=poqD8CZxaSZ-xkp1 Rear Liftgate (replacing the Hydraulic lift arms and the wiper grommet): ua-cam.com/video/BbKnyVSxTHo/v-deo.htmlsi=xPFmHCw9yxgiynmn Rear Brakes and Suspension Rebuild (Drum Brake version): ua-cam.com/video/uv7aJgFFBuo/v-deo.htmlsi=PymkzxtEoeGiFT9X Good luck in keeping the PT Cruisin'!

HOLY SHOOT!!! Looks like I found the PT Cruiser EXPERT!! Thank you so much!

@@catlady8324 I ain't playin'! 😁

In short the answer is "no" IF we are talking about the DOHC 2.4L motor. There were also the SOHC 1.6L and 2.0L engines which WERE interference. On the most common 2.4L engine the timing belt breaking will not cause the valves to impact the pistons. You will find all kinds of answers on this if you start searching the internet - and a LOT of wrong answers. But again - the 2.4L DOHC engine is NON-interference.

@jly74 Thank you for posting the question. So you will already have removed the Engine Torque Struts and disconnected the Passenger Side Motor mount to do the Timing Belt replacement as seen in this video. If you want to take the extra effort and disconnect the Transmission mount that would allow you more maneuverability of the engine/transmission assembly and you'd probably get a lot more room on the passenger side. HOWEVER - You would need to be very careful/cautious to properly support the entire engine/transmission assembly so it wouldn't fall or potentially move/rotate too far. You could easily start ripping hoses, wires and other components apart if the engine/transmission assembly were to rotate/drop too far. So there is the possibility it could become a nightmare... But if you need that extra access for any reason I'd say it is not out of the question. But personally I don't feel there is the NEED for this repair.

@@PTBubbles Thanks for your response. I'm "looking forward" to this operation (belt, idler, cam/crank seals, water pump) in the near future on my 2005 Dream Cruiser Limited convertible, auto trans. 107,000 lucky miles.

Forgot to mention: it's a turbo.

@@jly74 Excellent! The job is virtually identical on the Turbo model you just have a few more things to tend with on the intake manifold and pertaining to the Turbo and it's connections. But all in all it is not too much more work. Set aside at least a weekend or two to get through it carefully if this is your first time doing this job. This is definitely not a task that should be rushed. Wishing you the best!

@@PTBubbles Thanks, Jake. I'll report back after it's completed.

I believe you are referring to the metal Water Pump Inlet Tube? Here is a link to that part (as sold on Amazon): www.amazon.com/Water-Pump-Inlet-Tube-Compatible/dp/B08GZWVZ6W The main largest port goes into the Water Pump, then another port bends down and the lower Radiator Hose connects to it and then the smallest port faces opposite the Water Pump and one of the Heater Core hoses connects to that. I hope this helps.

Hey Phil! I hope you are well. I'm surprised the rear driver's door lock was rusted in place - that's very rare - I wonder if there is a leak in the window seal or something else dripping down onto it? I think this is the part you are concerned about (it has an O-Ring where it enters the engine block and coolant flows in from the Water Pump) that maybe has gone bad: www.amazon.com/Water-Pump-Inlet-Tube-Compatible/dp/B08GZWVZ6W In looking for other videos where I get at the Water Pump Inlet Tube I found these: ua-cam.com/video/dmbz1_X9wXw/v-deo.htmlsi=85rKyLwAqpfii1QB&t=364 This one might be the most helpful - from where I am reassembling my swapped Turbo Motor (Go to about 25:24 in): ua-cam.com/video/xUwtH71w_JI/v-deo.htmlsi=MRKoZYKU-MFeazs4&t=1524

@@PTBubbles Thanks, doing well. The hard lines are on the opposite side, and appear to be discontinued. I might just swap it out completely with rubber lines. Someone on a dodge forum remade theirs with soldered copper plumbing pipes. 😂

@@philsowers Ah - so where they wrap around on the Driver's side? Yeah that might be a junkyard only item at this point unless you can fabricate/create something on your own. I'm sure there are so many options these days that would let you make something yourself. Good luck!

Thank you very much for checking it out and leaving the comment. Glad it helped.

Nice work and sounds impressive! Thinking on your toes and making things work in your favor. Thanks for watching and leaving the comment and best of luck with your PT - keep it Cruisin'

Thank you for the comment. Congrats on the PT purchase and I hope you have fun working on it, learning about it and driving it! Take care

¡Muchas gracias! Agradezco su visita y les deseo lo mejor en sus proyectos automotrices. Cuidarse (Mis disculpas si la traducción no es correcta; tuve que usar el traductor de Google)

Thanks @jefferystillwell2121 I'd welcome any suggestions on getting the followers and providing valuable/entertaining content. Much appreciated!

Hello - are you talking about just the Timing Belt? $5000 for a Timing Belt seems pretty ludicrous. Or was the $5000 quote for a whole new engine? (Including labor etc.) That still seems quite high regardless. Would need to know more info as to what exactly the quote was for.

@@PTBubbles They say timing chain broke...regardless I found a much newer car and I letting the Saturn die...She was over 22 years old/Over 266,000 miles!

@altema22 Thanks for the visit. That does sound like a seal was blown if oil is coming out of a vacuum port. You can find replacement Turbos for the PT pretty easily (many include the exhaust manifold with it).

Most PT Cruiser's have the 2.4L motor which are not interference.

They are partial interference.

I can understand the sentiment. I've swapped a disc brake rear end onto my Green Machine PT and if I get the chance I'll film that process if I can swap the rear end on my brother's PT.

@@PTBubbles Should be good to have online for posterity. It's been on my todo list for a long time on my 98 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GS. Usually it's just a hub and brake hardware swap, on the eclipse the e-brake cable is slightly different, but other than that should be fairly easy to do, and easy enough to find a a local pick-a-part junkyard.

@@philsowers The E-brake (Parking Brake) cables are different on the PT as well. The Rear End swap (as I have done it) involves pulling the whole rear end including those cables which go up into the interior and attach to the handle. Fortunately I grabbed the rear end off of the Donor Turbo PT I got for my Turbo upgrade so I have that spare Disc Brake rear end ready and waiting to swap onto my brother's PT when he can part with it for a while.

@@PTBubbles Interesting, the whole rear meansframe and beam or hubs/knuckles?

@@philsowers Let's see - in the video where I drop the rear end to do the service on the Watts Linkage, Rear Control Arms, and Shocks I am just a few steps away from completely removing the entire rear end assembly from the PT. All that's left are 8 bolts securing each side of the Rear End (on the front of those arms that attach to the axle) to the frame rails and the two E-Brake cables. So it's really not all that bad of a job.

@stevec6898 I believe you are referring to the plastic line that joins the T-Junction on the Turbo-side (pause at 11:10 or 11:36 and you will see the T-junction) If so then it is part of the "circular loop" of hoses all in that cluster. This is the same junction that the hose you asked about at 9:18 connects to. In fact they connect side by side on that junction.

No this hard plastic 1/4 line comes from by the map sensor. It is teed off of the vertical hose right below the top tee. It turns up about 3 inches and turns towards the turbo side. It turns towards the front for about 3 inches, down 3 inches, back to the right 2 inches with a barbed end. About halfway between the turbo intake and the master cylinder reservoir. It also seems that the only vacuum supply for the whole system is from the small line coming from the brake booster??

@@stevec6898 I'll answer your last question first. There are other larger vacuum lines in the system (such as the Brake Booster to the Intake Manifold - about a 3/8" size hose, and the Proportional Purge hoses and the PCV hose). This video was focusing more on the Turbocharger specific lines/hoses since they are unique and more complicated then the N/A 2.4L configuration. Other than the specific Turbocharger lines, the Turbo and N/A vacuum lines are almost identical - just minor variations. Apologies if I am not narrowing in on the exact hose you are asking about but here is what I think you are identifying: First just a couple clarifying items: • The MAP sensor would be considered to be positioned on the Passenger side (on the Intake Manifold) • The TIP (Throttle Inlet Pressure Solenoid - specific to Turbo models only) is also on the Passenger side mounted on the Firewall/Wiper Cowel lip. • I believe the hose you are identifying Tees off of the junction right next to the TIP sensor on the Firewall and connects in the following locations: ---Small black plastic hose travels in the passenger-side direction inside the Turbo Vacuum Line loom and goes to the Turbo Solenoid #1 (the TIP Solenoid) which is the rear-most solenoid with the RED electronic connector ---Rubber hose travels downward along the firewall to the Purge Valve (which is mounted on the A/C Drier assembly) ---2 larger plastic hoses come off of this Tee and travel towards the drivers side inside the Turbo Vacuum Line loom. One of these connects to the top of the throttle body and the other connects to the "circular loop" of lines/hoses I describe in the video and in my other response to you. I hope this helps.

@stevec6898 Thanks for the question. If you keep an eye on the lines between 9:18 and about 12:30 you can see how they connect better. That 2nd line you mention connects to the "circular" set of hoses right where the two large rubber fittings are (pause the video and look slightly to the right of center screen at 9:37 - those two rubber fittings that join into a plastic junction. I am also holding the junction where that 2nd hose connects at 10:03). At 10:51 you will see the large plastic hose that comes down from that junction right behind the loom with the 3 plastic colored hoses. Those are all actually joined at a T-junction where connections split off to the following (pause at 11:10 or 11:36 and you will see the T-junction): 1) Cold Air Intake (larger rubber hose) (I am holding it in my hand at 10:14) 2) Rubber hose on the larger driver-side Turbocharger port (not the smaller rear connection) pause at 11:49 3) Smaller plastic hose that goes to the rear connection on the Turbocharger - watch close around 12:00 - 12:30 4) Blow-off Valve Surge Valve Actuator) - watch around 10:30 Hopefully this helps.

@philsowers I am growing to appreciate proper/good grounding more and more! Best of luck your ground wire upgrade endeavor. I haven't seen a "slim" PT Cruiser fan before - do you have a resource for one or will it just be fabricating a 3rd party one to work? My next video will actually be about those Oil and Transmission Coolers I've added in front of the Radiator. Here are links to what I used: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UO2NI8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BJ283K75/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 And I wonder if Northern Radiator might have something you could use for a slim PT fan? Or maybe something for your 1500? www.northernradiator.com

@@PTBubbles My cooler lines should probably be replaced anyway since both brackets are missing for some reason. Looking forward to it 👌

@philsowers Here is a link to the Welder I got/used: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C84WW9NP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 Here are the specs: 140Amp MIG Welder Flux Core MIG Welder/Stick/Lift TIG 3 in 1 Welding Machine, Welder Machine 110V With Synergy IGBT Inverter For the welding I kept it right around 90-100Amps. .035 wire thickness. I am not sure of the amperage requirement for the welder, but I did just use my garage outlets and go to town.

@@PTBubbles Nice, I've seen a few reviews where pros review cheap amazon welders. If you do get a chance to look at the breaker that garage circuit is on, i'd be more inclined to try. My Ram 1500 needs to be welded, the rear pipe separated from the cat, probably due to all the offroad beach driving we do. I might also be able to fix the running board that's disintegrating as well. I have a gas torch, but i'd rather just plug something in instead of getting bottles and welding that way. Needs a lot more room which is tough when you're under a vehicle.

@@philsowers It looks like the Garage circuit does have a 20amp breaker in my house.

@petervanb8088 It looks like the part number for the grommet is: 5020577AA Here are a few sites you can get this grommet from: www.ebay.com/itm/324213929559?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1B-jB0CILQRiTQr7CJ1UrcA70&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=324213929559&targetid=1644837434763&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9033504&poi=&campaignid=20125739985&mkgroupid=149128855676&rlsatarget=aud-1297930287258:pla-1644837434763&abcId=9312975&merchantid=101509763&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAoeGuBhCBARIsAGfKY7ztoWzjw76VoPo8QS6ugGFAfSOYyp055TBEyvGcGtp0RiHlRqIZD0IaAg06EALw_wcB www.getmoparpart.com/oem-parts/mopar-rear-wiper-motor-grommet-5020577aa?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAoeGuBhCBARIsAGfKY7yeXL87mSnisdOFT-C2l9u6yXr2o6E1f_iUy2i_XtTDjnMx9Wle_u8aAlMfEALw_wcB parts.mopargenuineparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-rear-wiper-motor-grommet-5020577aa?origin=pla&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAoeGuBhCBARIsAGfKY7zTMC4xi8gnXpPVwQVXhLr-h16aVaNQf_tkpjjLbCFc7ZXmOcdX9XIaAn_XEALw_wcB www.moparfactoryparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-rear-wiper-motor-grommet-5020577aa?origin=pla&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAoeGuBhCBARIsAGfKY7xhNtBk_CBH3eBRV0dZaP6OsG3kEp1gMUtwOFcBFjtPnZNKGckvMTEaAvrxEALw_wcB parts.allmoparparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-rear-wiper-motor-grommet-5020577aa?origin=pla&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAoeGuBhCBARIsAGfKY7xwxasQhoGu66VuVpDNgdF4l5xq9P1fHwP7mfOKj1lAUnwwMO66hWwaAgCEEALw_wcB

@@PTBubbles Thank you!

@bubbashubbs298 Thank you for the post! You've highly peaked my attention! May I ask if your Wrangler has the 42RLE (rear wheel drive) transmission as well? I am looking into getting one of the 42RLE transmissions (basically the rear wheel drive version of the 41TE transmissions in the PT Cruisers). I have an extra 2.4L engine and I wanted to find one of the 42RLEs so that I could put the motor and transmission into something like an old Valiant.

@@PTBubbles Mine is a a 5 speed NV1500. The 42R(L)E was put in all 2003-2006 wranglers.

@@bubbashubbs298 Thanks for the clarification. So you have a 2.4L 4 cylinder into the NV1500?

Yeah@@PTBubbles

@philsowers Yeah it's not a small task, but good news is that if you do not replace Tie Rod Ends or the Rack & Pinion you won't need to get an alignment. If you are going in as far as the Lower Control Arms it would be an opportune time to service the Struts and CV Axles - (but that Driver Side CV Axle will be a bear if you aren't dropping the K-Frame). You can also get Struts with springs already mounted as well - definitely worth the small extra cost and saving yourself the hassle of swapping the original spring over to a new strut. Rockauto.com has them. As long as you are prepared with jack stands, 1/2" torque bar, and maybe an impact wrench I'm sure you can do it! Don't hesitate to reach out if you have questions or run into any bumps along the way.

@@PTBubbles Appreciate that, and all these videos! They're good for all us Cruiser owners for posterity, and make great homework before a job. Haynes & the service manual can only show so much in a 2D graphic illustration. Next up for me is installing my Wilwood big brake kit. R old rotors/calibers got seized being out and unused for months. Once I can drive it into my garage, I'll look at tackling the control arms in slightly conditioned space. It's been pretty cold here around DC. By the way, that underside is immaculate! My parts washer is just itching to be used and a coat of paint maybe?! lol Right now though I've got so much oil dripping from here and there from old seals and weird oil & coolant line degrading as it's an 05 GT. Luckily a lot of hoses are available in silicone from Modern Performance. Keep on cruisin!

@@philsowers Those Wilwoods outta work wonders! I'm curious how they work/feel when you are done - I've never splurged for Wilwoods before! 😁 I hear you regarding the cold - I'm in WA state and our temps look pretty similar right now. My garage isn't heated either and for some reason it feels even colder than outside! I practically need to wear a parka while working on cars in the winter...I need to find a better solution than the propane heater. There is a way to modify a clothes dryer into a garage heater I might do... Oil Leaks? Ah - if you are going in to do the Timing Belt or lower control arms it doesn't take much more to change out the Oil Pump and the crankshaft seal...AND it's not much more work to swap out the Oil Filter Adapter gasket and the Oil Pan gasket. You can really tackle all those potential oil leaks on the lower 1/2 of the motor. Also - as far as the upper 1/2 of the engine make sure you swap out the valve cover gaskets - INCLUDING all the spark plug seals and the 8mm bolt seals that go around the edge of the Valve cover. I have found numerous PTs don't leak from the main Valve Cover gasket...it's those darn Spark Plug and Bolt seals that are leaking - especially down the back of the motor onto the exhaust (cough cough). I believe amongst the videos I've posted during the Turbo Motor swap and the Maintenance videos you can see all this being done...but I am also working on another video for Timing Belt replacement, Head Gasket replacement, and Oil Pump replacement...just not sure when I will have collected all the footage to finish and post that...let me know if you'd like what I have so far though - I do have everything for the Oil-related stuff already. I could share just that with you if it helps.

@@PTBubbles All great tips, looking forward to the new uploads. I've had Wilwoods on my old 01 NA & this 05, stops so well I worry more about the person behind me than making the stop. The anodized & chrome finishes corrode too easily so I got the black painted ones this time so we'll see. I did blown in insulation around the garage walls and installed both reflectix & white foam panels on my garage door which retains temps so much better. Seasonally I switch between a roll around AC with a hose output & enclosed radiator (oil) heater with a ryobi fan blowing over it raises temps about 10 degrees in a 2 car garage with 10' ceiling so it's usually in the 50s which is much more doable when it's 20s-30s outside. Do you have an Instagram or other? I can post updates there as I make them.

@@philsowers I don't have Instagram (not really on Social Media except for UA-cam) but the AllPar forums might be a good place you could post - I have an account there. www.allpar.com/forums/pt-cruiser.52/ This is also a GREAT forum with some very knowledgeable PT Cruiser folks.

@philsowers As a note - it isn't "required" to fully remove the K-Frame for the Rack & Pinion. Some folks will just drop it enough to where they can get to the Rack & Pinion bolts and then slide it out one side.

@travakin4590 Glad it helped and thanks for commenting. Take care.

@fingersofskill Thanks for stopping by and posting your question. Even a single tooth jump can cause issues so I wouldn't necessarily rule that out. Can I ask for a bit more info: What parts have you already swapped/checked? What did the shop do? • Do you have the ability to do some testing and have some tools to diagnose? • Sounds like fuel is flowing and that's not an issue. • I would want to check for compression in each cylinder (will require taking off the Intake Manifold and Spark Plugs and a compression check tool). This should hopefully help diagnose if you have a blown head gasket and perhaps a cylinder not firing as a result. As you have the Intake Manifold removed I would check all gaskets as you go to make sure you have good seals and no air leaks. Check the hoses that all plug into the Intake as well for dry/cracked hoses that need to be replaced. • While you have the Intake removed you can also do a spark test to check that the coil is sending a spark through each wire to the spark plugs. Basically I'd go through these basic tests for fuel, air, and spark first. Let me know if this helps or if you might need more info/help.