Відео

@@TEI3I I bought Crucial Laptop Memory in 2x48GB configuration. It worked well.

@@rubenponce1042 In my experience, the fan runs at a high level by default. In fact, I was worried about it until I installed all the driver updates. It then went to a much lower, nearly silent level, during normal operations. The fact that you do not have an OS yet makes me wonder if this is not the problem. On MSI hardware, the MSI Dragon Center lets you control of the FAN RPM settings.

what u think about fan noise,because of that I am considering to return,even silence mod fans work so much, all others are good but :(

​@@jackalturk6491 yep, the fan could be really annoying working on some the performance profiles. I usually use silent mode in a couple of games (PES 2021 and CIV 6 both on top quality) and don't have any performance and heat problems. When I play CS i turn on the AI mode but since I'm using headphones doesn't bother me. I think that the profiles are using much more power than actually is needed and with some good tweaking you can lower the fan usage without jeopardizing the heat dissipation, but the MSI service App is not user friendly at all...

Have you tried MSI Center? Dragon Center is used for laptops that are like 10+ years old.

The wipe tower is almost exactly equal in height to the object that you are printing. Its base size, around 10 cm2, is proportional to the amount that you need to wipe. If you print a white and black model, you will want to increase the amount of the material that is wiped (to make sure that you do not leave black streaks in the white parts). If you print pastel earth tones like those snails, the size of the wipe tower is minimal (because the colors are closer.) The wipe tower has a very low density, maybe 5%, typically. I have to add two mitigating factors: 1. You can sometimes wipe the material inside the model itself as an infill. Is that case, there is no wipe tower. 2. There's only one wipe tower per print. So, printing 1 snail is the same as printing 5 snails.

As soon as I get the MMU3 for the MK4, I will do another video. According to Prusa, I should get the package in the second week of May. I will assemble it and test it out right away. This second review will use PLA (instead of PETG) as I plan to keep a setup where my MK3S+ MMU3 prints PETG and my MK4 MMU3 prints PLA. (I always use Prusament for multi-material prints to have consistency of temperature and flow settings for all 5 spools.)

Maybe a final point. I find it absolutely satisfying to be able to pick a color (out of 5 possible ones) every time I print out a monochromatic object. The MMU3 lets me print remotely without having to do a filament change ahead of time.

Yesterday, I printed the 4 wheels of this counter (link below) in white and red. I just checked: the 4 wheels weigh 31 grams and the wipe tower weighs 10 grams. The wipe tower is quite dense (because I was going from a very clear color to a dark one) and measures 60*16*12 (LxWxH) www.printables.com/model/712319-hands-free-counting-machine-9000-v12

You can tweak the values a bit. I found that the system purged quite a bit more than necessary after a filament change, dialing down that setting (off the top of my head I'm not sure what it's called) will reduce waste.

Thank you ! I use my own version of the LACK table enclosure. www.printables.com/model/627745-prusa-mk3mk4-enclosure-built-with-an-ikea-lack-tab

This is a great idea. If I get around to doing a video on how to install the Mac emulator, I'll post the link here so that you can get a notification from UA-cam.

www.printables.com/model/672870-3d-printed-electronic-snowflakes-using-ws2811-led-

They all have their USB lead. I only printed three of them. Now, you are giving me an idea for next Christmas. :-)

I did not fix the fact that the refresh rate is not synchronized to the FastLED refresh rate. It was annoying and I tried to film this part in 1080p 30 fps and then in 60 fps and then in slow-motion mode at 240 fps and I still had this flicker. I think that the solution would be to use the fact that the FastLED library allows to change the refresh rate and pick a refresh rate that would be a prime number so that the refreshes are as asynchronous as possible to the 30 or 60 fps.

@@PhilippeLacoude Oh the thing is i wasn't using fastled, rather trying to get a normal common cathode rgb led to cycle through all the colors and using digital write and pwm instead of analogwrite because i was experimenting with this ch32v003 microcontroller and found a arduino library for it that exactly didn't support some analog features like read or write, but i got it working, the thing is i bought a ch32v003 because they're really cheap like 20 cents till i realized once I got them they were janky to program with and made a cool papercraft house that lights up and cycles colors

Yes, it is very true. Actually, this summer, I built the www.printables.com/model/482760-epcot-spaceship-earth

That said, while you are correct, I am not sure how I would deal with the fact that each snowflake can be its own unit from a lights pattern point of view. How would you tell WLED that you want to turn the snowflakes, say, red, green, and blue? With the FastLED library, you can turn one snowflake uniformly red, the second one off, while the third one displays a changing rainbow. Granted, in practice, having a rainbow "roll" across all snowflakes is good enough.

Yes, 12mm pixels

@@PhilippeLacoude this should map to xlights nicely and looks good too. Do you have other printable pixel props?

@@diyhometheaterguy Not yet. I am working on indoor Christmas balls. But it will be 5mm pixels. Not 12mm.

Thank you for your frank comment. I will look into this next time.

It's not as bad as many others some acoustic panels and a lapel mic you should be fine

I have no idea. I am really just reviewing it. I don't know what the plans of Adafruit or the guys who designed this PCB are. But frankly, I have been thinking about the 74 series logic gates. There would be an equally great educational opportunity in recreating the AND or the OR gates IC.

They are hollow but the thickness of the plastic surface that makes up the "walls" of the legs is enough to use 4 or 5 millimeters of screw thread. It's quite sturdy. I never had to go back and glue one.

Thank you very much!

It is a very good question. Most of the nice TFT screens out there have a 16:9 ratio. I chose the screen among 3 possible ones and I designed the enclosure around the dimensions of that screen. I will gladly agree that it is a bit silly.

Full disclosure, since I built it, I have used it a lot, on an external monitor as a desktop computer running Linux. I have hardly used it as a Mac but I like the idea that I have a nice enclosure for my Raspberry Pi 4B. :-)