Відео

nvm i see

Sturdy, responsive, no dramas!

@@19schuey great to know thank you!

Not sure what you mean by same spot on all of them. I liked at Whyte the B button was on the board, then just followed it along to a spot on the blade where the track was easy to solder to.

Thanks mate.

It was an idea, I never pursued it, just got a wireless headset instead.

Because it is tapped off the B button, it is either on or off.

@@19schuey oh okay unfortunately. So it's impossible to make handbrake with progressive signal?

Its just a simple on off single pole single throw momentary. A better pic of it at 8.05. Here is the link from my local electronics store that I got it from. www.jaycar.com.au/spdt-250v-5a-standard-micro-switch-with-lever/p/SM1039

Ever so gently scraped it back with a scribe until I could see copper. Don't go too deep as you will tear the track.

QikMik79 ok great. Ya I already figured it try that and it worked out.

@@Aguirre693 Cool! So you are doing one like this?

QikMik79 ya I have the same e brake. I got it from Amazon

I think I’m considering making one of these handbrakes for myself. Do you have the link to the e brake that you had in your first video?

All you need to do is follow the tracks from under the B pad. One of them is common to all four buttons, from memory it was the upper one. Just lightly scratch the clear coat off and use a little bit of flux to help the solder stick. Don't keep the iron on the tracks too long as they might lift off the board and them you'll be stuffed. Sorry I cant offer more advice.

@@19schuey what colour is what ?for the wires

@@glennnikkelson3082 because its a simple on off switch, it doesn't matter.

You could, but there would be no benefit. The input the console reads is on or off, same as the game controllor.

@@19schuey im sure if i hold the handbrake, give it gas and release the pressure on the button slowly the car takes off slower, compared to me just coming straight off the handbrake button. Im going to investigate this more tonight. I was sure the xbox had pressure sensitive buttons (the original one and ps2 did but google says the xbone does not)

The seat unit is a Trak Racer RS8. Available from their website trakracer.com.au I got mine second hand off of a local Facebook marketplace page. Look on ebay or whatever online classifieds are in your area.

I don't have any other tear down pics other than what was in the video. Just lift the rubber pad, and look for the track that goes to the button you were after. There will be two, one marked +ve, and one marked GND or -ve.

@@19schuey Aha! Thanks for taking time to reply. :)

Nothing fancy, just the thinnest gauge I had in my box of bits.

Lightly scraped back the protective lacquer, heaps of flux and a steady hand!

@@19schuey thought so I Did the same thing but fuck it took a few bloody attempts 🤣

Also for the PCB which wires go to each track is hard to tell in the pic

@@ruxin91 hey there. Firstly, yes you have to gently scrape the protective coating off, just enough to make the copper track visible and so the solder will adhere. Used plenty of flux to clean it off too. Second part, basically lift off the rubber pad, and follow the tracks from the contact pad part.

Hey Andy, thanks for the feedback! Sorry haven't replied earlier, had comment notifications off! Hope it works just as well as it does for me!

19schuey , I was wondering if you had a template to that shifter/ebrake plate you had made?

No I dont sorry. I just used a piece of cardboard and traced around the shifter, then placed the brake frame and traced it. Then measured the mounting holes. I actually cleaned out my shed on the weekend and the original aluminium one was there and I threw it out! Could have taken a photo for you. Check out my update where I show the stop bolt I put in to limit movement. Link in video description.

19schuey, haha no worries I’ll take your advise and trace both units. I appreciate all your help.

Thanks mate. For the switch, the centre one is usually always used with one or the other. If momentary, it shouldn't matter which is used. A simple check with multi meter to see which two make contact will sort it out for you!

@@19schuey thanks

@@19schuey I dont have a multi meter but which 2 do I use 1. Common 2. Nomarlly open 3. Normally close or I just send you a picture of the switches I bought www.ebay.com/itm/5-x-Micro-Limit-Switch-Long-Straight-Hinge-Lever-Arm-SPDT-Snap-Action-LOT/292490785337?hash=item4419cf3239:g:~f8AAOSwRTVad0QG thanks so much for the help

@@fernandosantana6159 sorry for delay, don't look at channel often enough. Need to use common and normally open, as activating the switch will close it and make the circuit.

Yeah, man! Micro, jack and socket, had everything else!

Hi Matt. It was a small unit about 1.25in by .25in. The arm. Is about 2in, and i bent it to suit my needs.

Thanks for watching. How is yours done, similar?

Yep, would have got one. Thrustmaster make one for theirs.

the thrustmaster one is good but still to expensive for most people

Ikr, there's a lot of tracks on The new Dirt Rally, that are impossible to make a good time on without a hand brake. I'm not a handy guy either, so I don't won't to go mucking around with the internal mechanics of a wheel to do a DIY job.

Use a thrustmaster

@@fnf5943 You cannot use the thrustmaster handbrake, because it is no usb and you cannot connect the handbrake to a logitech base either..

Absolutely! I show this at the 3.35 mark.

Cheers must of not paid attention at that part as I was at work aha. And real great video. I’ve watched a few and thought it was gonna be a bit hard but watching yours made me not scared of doin it now. Plan on doin it to a and b cuz I play several different games an they have different buttons. And having the little jack ports makes it near to swap between buttons. Really loving that idea 👍🏼

Shouldn't, those ratings are what it can handle, not what it needs.

Photo at 1min51sec shows the jack. I'll see on my laptop if I have another, but it was basically on the lower half of the case away from where the force feedback motors sit. You could do without one and just have the wire running out just like the USB lead, I just wanted the neatness and also having an option to take it off. Personal preference. As for taping it, no way, it needs to be soldered. The thing is constantly rotating, so it needs to soldered.

19schuey okay. And where is the jack lead hooked up to underneath the cover of the wheel?

Blinco5racing27 I'm not sure what you mean. The lead goes from the jack up through the shaft as you can see at 1.57. That then connects to the wires that I have soldered to the B button tracks. I kept the leads to minimal length, but enough to allow movement and yet not get snagged.

19schuey yeah okay. So the jack is just wired onto the board, then lead through the hole and goes to the jack. It makes sense now. Thanks for the help

This is the one that I got off of eBay. All the other electronic bits I had in my RC stash or got from my local electronic outlet, Jaycar here in Aus. (Don't know where you are, in US it would be Radio Shack).

Perfect thanks👌🏻

Sure can. See this video, not mine, but there are some who make up 3D printed plates to only allow 3/4th use and have spring to self centre it. I like the H pattern for the old style cars in Forza. F1 and modern GT/Le Mans style enduro cars have paddle shift, and yes some others notably touring and rally cars have stick sequential, I usually use the shifter. Not hard to put one of the plates in, so might just get one anyway so I have it on hand if I wish to do it. Using the plate though you wouldn't be able to utilise 2nd as HB, but don't think you can map that to HB anyway. ua-cam.com/video/8Vi-nUKuosY/v-deo.html

Thanks

TGx Cyclops Right angle 2.5mm jack. See pic at 8.04min.

19schuey Thank you for the feedback

Thank you. Yes simple, as long as you don't damage the PCB tracks.

19schuey ive been lucky so far soldering to cheap dpad boards so I should be ok

bsft cool, cheap Dpad boards are different to $400 units though! Be sure to post pics or videos of what you do.

19schuey Id have to dig out the pics and I did build something a while back. Next I will give it a go with a G27 set Ive got. As for videos , Ive got a few on my page of what Ive done with sim frames

PreToPost sure, I'll help where I can. What do you want to know?

Firstly, why the 2 wire connection onto the motherboard rather than just running one to the button of choice? Also as with your case and the 2.5mm jack, can I use a usb

Not sure what you mean by one wire to the button. You need two as a minimum. That's how a switch works. Same as the button, effectively two wires, when you press it, it connects the two together. The tracks that I soldered to are obviously the tracks that make the switch under the B pad. Had to gently and carefully scrape some of the protective clear off of the track to expose it to allow the solder to hold. As for your USB question, that would be overkill because like I just said, it's only two wires, so I made it as minimal as possible. A USB socket would take up unnecessary space. You could just run the wire out and leave it long like all the others I had seen. I just wanted the ability to easily remove if I wanted. Also if I ever want to get a new brand of wheel and it doesn't have a handbrake, I have one already made that just requires a connection on the wheel. Does that answer your questions?

That does thank you. Was just wanting to see if using a USB port instead of a jack like you did was a viable way.

PreToPost glad to help. Just remember, more wires in a USB, means more work! Make sure to post a link to your video or photos of what you end up doing.

The issue with the brick was a knocked off surface mount resistor, which I inadvertently tore off when pushing the motor out the back of the gearbox. It ripped the track off so its pretty stuffed. I bought a new brick all is good now. Motor runs very well after a few batteries through it, even though its still a bit Grundy.

*grindy

I had trouble with using pliers because of the motor's magnet/s ..... had to use a wooden skewer to push motor into place.