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QikMik79
Приєднався 3 лют 2011
Missed Apex Racing League, Jaguar GT3 series, Rnd3, Donnington Park.
Last lap of race 1, final chicane and the two hairpins. Made three spots.
Переглядів: 63
Відео
Missed Apex Racing League, GT3 Series 3, R3 Nurburgring
Переглядів 342 роки тому
Missed Apex Racing League, Round 3 at the Nurburgring. Two of the Team Riverina Hondas almost came together, I was on my out lap after my stop, half lost it in front of calabreseKID.
Logitech G920 Handbrake Update
Переглядів 2,1 тис.5 років тому
Here is a quick update video that follows my original handbrake build for my Logitech G920. Original video can be found here ua-cam.com/video/H-48q4PmYdw/v-deo.html The update is for the stop bolt I put in to prevent the handbrake going all the way back. I was ok with it because I knew where to stop, but found others would just pull all the way back, and occasionally the arm on the micro would ...
Logitech G920 Handbrake Mod for XBox One - UPDATE
Переглядів 78 тис.6 років тому
This video shows the construction and operation of my self made external handbrake for my Logitech G920 XBox One combination. Utilising a hydraulic handbrake, it's different to most you will find on the net, as I have tapped off of the B button on the wheel's internal circuit board. Some risk involved, but I have added functionality as opposed to some where they have used the L/RB switches (the...
Magnificent Merlin Music
Переглядів 446 років тому
Temora Aviation Museum's Mk.VIII and Mk. XVI Spitfires during the March Showcase.
UMX Carbon Cub SS Flap/Gear switch mixing on Orange T-Six
Переглядів 7519 років тому
I was having trouble working out mixing flap/gear channels on my Orange T-Six to operate the flaps on my UMX Carbon Cub, using the three pos'n flap switch. I came across a video where a guy was doing the mix on his DX6i. I copied the settings, and while it doesn't work like it does on the DX6i, I did get it working. He got three flap positions over using flap and gear switches, while since the ...
PZ UM Mustang rudder linkage
Переглядів 26110 років тому
About 1min into my PZ UM Mustang's maiden, I inputed some right rudder, went to centre and nothing it just kept pulling right. Uh oh, did I have the dreaded servo lock?? I managed to clear the fence across the road from me and bring it back where I plopped it on the ground. 1 stinking minute, that's all I got.Was hesitant to open it so I don't void warranty or anything before I contact the plac...
Parkzone UM Spitfire Aileron travel issue... again.
Переглядів 38510 років тому
I have a new wing for my UM Spitfire. I put the wing on and made sure it was square and centered, as the original wasn't. Connected the servo, powered it up, and.... same poor aileron travel, only this time in the left direction, plenty going right. As can be seen in the video, I then moved the linkage to the innermost hole on the bellcrank. Still no change, and I noticed that the linkage bends...
HZ Champ motor problem
Переглядів 35610 років тому
I believe my Champ's motor has hit its use by date. Unfortunately, its only done 40 or so flights. This is motor number two, the first hit the 100 mark. As you can see in the vid, it also occasionally won't kick over on its own, it requires a little help. This is what leads me to believe its the motor. Once I hit 60% power, it won't go any more. Batts are all good, and the brick is also new, we...
Champ new motor issue
Переглядів 24910 років тому
Dropped a new motor in my Champ, the one that is listed as PZ Sukhoi. The old motor was incredibly graunchy and would randomly cut out. A few new issues post install: now has no free movement with either the original or a new propshaft. And when I was swapping the motor out, my pliers which had become magnetised from the motor ran along the bottom of the brick, now I have no response to any fli...
PZ UM Spitfire aileron travel
Переглядів 23910 років тому
Have been having trouble with the throw of my UM Spitfire's ailerons. Out of the box it won't roll and if and when it does, is painfully slow and I have to cease the roll to regain it in a decent space. This vid just shows the amount of travel, hoping others may have experienced something similar and can offer suggestions to fix it.
Champ test fly post wing repair 07Oct13
Переглядів 8310 років тому
First major break on my month old Champ. Had already replaced the tail after it ground looped, rolled over and tore it in two near the base. This time, the wind picked up threw it into the ground mid turn, breaking the left half of the wing clean off. A repair then some testing. Not the best conditions for test flying. A quick three flights, the wind picked up each time cutting them short. Well...
Frinite 29Apr11
Переглядів 98213 років тому
Round 4 of SWSRG Friday series at schuey19's Emu Plains Raceway.
where did you put the ground?
nvm i see
Great video. What sim rig are you using. Thanks
7:01 “happy as larry” my parents always used to say “are you as happy as larry?” to me when I was younger🤣
How has this held up? Anything you would change?
Sturdy, responsive, no dramas!
@@19schuey great to know thank you!
How did you connect the b button is it the same spot on all of them?
Not sure what you mean by same spot on all of them. I liked at Whyte the B button was on the board, then just followed it along to a spot on the blade where the track was easy to solder to.
Simple elegant effective 👌
Thanks mate.
How did you make that mount for handbrake
Nicely done mate. I like the audio port on the wheel, allowing modularity
It was an idea, I never pursued it, just got a wireless headset instead.
do you think it will work if I use this one? and your handbrake is "progressive" in game? or just 0-100% ?
Because it is tapped off the B button, it is either on or off.
@@19schuey oh okay unfortunately. So it's impossible to make handbrake with progressive signal?
Hello there just got my g920 and using it for xbox one can you tell me what micro switch you used and how did you secure it in place great videos bud keep up the great work
Its just a simple on off single pole single throw momentary. A better pic of it at 8.05. Here is the link from my local electronics store that I got it from. www.jaycar.com.au/spdt-250v-5a-standard-micro-switch-with-lever/p/SM1039
When you soldered to the b button tracks, how did u penetrate the film to get to the wiring tracks to solder?
Ever so gently scraped it back with a scribe until I could see copper. Don't go too deep as you will tear the track.
QikMik79 ok great. Ya I already figured it try that and it worked out.
@@Aguirre693 Cool! So you are doing one like this?
QikMik79 ya I have the same e brake. I got it from Amazon
I think I’m considering making one of these handbrakes for myself. Do you have the link to the e brake that you had in your first video?
wish u did a video of u doing the wires to the Btracks i want to try it my self but not shore how to do it and dont really know any one to do it for me any advice being its so small and thin ?
All you need to do is follow the tracks from under the B pad. One of them is common to all four buttons, from memory it was the upper one. Just lightly scratch the clear coat off and use a little bit of flux to help the solder stick. Don't keep the iron on the tracks too long as they might lift off the board and them you'll be stuffed. Sorry I cant offer more advice.
@@19schuey what colour is what ?for the wires
@@glennnikkelson3082 because its a simple on off switch, it doesn't matter.
Seems like a lot of work. I think I’ll stick with button.
Could you use a pressure sensitive button instead of an on off one.
You could, but there would be no benefit. The input the console reads is on or off, same as the game controllor.
@@19schuey im sure if i hold the handbrake, give it gas and release the pressure on the button slowly the car takes off slower, compared to me just coming straight off the handbrake button. Im going to investigate this more tonight. I was sure the xbox had pressure sensitive buttons (the original one and ps2 did but google says the xbone does not)
So I bought a USB Handbrake(below) and I use it for PC. But I want to hardwire it into the Wheel like you did so I can use it for Xbox One or PC. Do you have any suggestions on how to do that? Maybe a USB Female to Motherboard adapter of some kind? Thank you! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K8JWHRV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Where did u get your seat and stand
The seat unit is a Trak Racer RS8. Available from their website trakracer.com.au I got mine second hand off of a local Facebook marketplace page. Look on ebay or whatever online classifieds are in your area.
thanks for taking the time to post this!
Can you show what lines i need to tap in to on the motherboard to rewire Y and X button? I am planning on making a turnsignal switch so i need two buttons rewired. :)
I don't have any other tear down pics other than what was in the video. Just lift the rubber pad, and look for the track that goes to the button you were after. There will be two, one marked +ve, and one marked GND or -ve.
@@19schuey Aha! Thanks for taking time to reply. :)
What gauge is the white wire on the motherboard?
Ecxelent, Good work 👍🏼
What white wire was used to solder onto the circuit board
Nothing fancy, just the thinnest gauge I had in my box of bits.
Mate how didnu solder it to the mother board?
Lightly scraped back the protective lacquer, heaps of flux and a steady hand!
@@19schuey thought so I Did the same thing but fuck it took a few bloody attempts 🤣
*EDIT 30 Apr 19. Here is the link to an update showing the stop I put in to limit movement. ua-cam.com/video/w3HoQvQuIt8/v-deo.html
Did you have to scrap the tracks on the PCB before soldering?
Also for the PCB which wires go to each track is hard to tell in the pic
@@ruxin91 hey there. Firstly, yes you have to gently scrape the protective coating off, just enough to make the copper track visible and so the solder will adhere. Used plenty of flux to clean it off too. Second part, basically lift off the rubber pad, and follow the tracks from the contact pad part.
Best Logitech E-Brake setup I have seen yet! Just ordered what I need to do that same setup. Thanks for the video!
Hey Andy, thanks for the feedback! Sorry haven't replied earlier, had comment notifications off! Hope it works just as well as it does for me!
19schuey , I was wondering if you had a template to that shifter/ebrake plate you had made?
No I dont sorry. I just used a piece of cardboard and traced around the shifter, then placed the brake frame and traced it. Then measured the mounting holes. I actually cleaned out my shed on the weekend and the original aluminium one was there and I threw it out! Could have taken a photo for you. Check out my update where I show the stop bolt I put in to limit movement. Link in video description.
19schuey, haha no worries I’ll take your advise and trace both units. I appreciate all your help.
Send this to logitech
You know how momentary switches have 3 levels which 3 do I use nice video you killed it
Thanks mate. For the switch, the centre one is usually always used with one or the other. If momentary, it shouldn't matter which is used. A simple check with multi meter to see which two make contact will sort it out for you!
@@19schuey thanks
@@19schuey I dont have a multi meter but which 2 do I use 1. Common 2. Nomarlly open 3. Normally close or I just send you a picture of the switches I bought www.ebay.com/itm/5-x-Micro-Limit-Switch-Long-Straight-Hinge-Lever-Arm-SPDT-Snap-Action-LOT/292490785337?hash=item4419cf3239:g:~f8AAOSwRTVad0QG thanks so much for the help
@@fernandosantana6159 sorry for delay, don't look at channel often enough. Need to use common and normally open, as activating the switch will close it and make the circuit.
Super clean DIY! Im looking at doing a setup myself and definitely taking yours into consideration when doing so.
You probably got half the parts from jaycar???😉
Yeah, man! Micro, jack and socket, had everything else!
Hey man looks amazing! Decided to do this with my rig in the next couple of weeks. Was just curious as to what size lever switch you used?
Hi Matt. It was a small unit about 1.25in by .25in. The arm. Is about 2in, and i bent it to suit my needs.
The other way is to set the micro on the other side and reverse wire it, can't crush the switch no matter how hard you pull 😁
Thanks for sharing this, I just done my hand brake, thanks for the video
Thanks for watching. How is yours done, similar?
its stupid that logitech dont make a simple affordable handbrake, if they did it would sell thousands immediately
Yep, would have got one. Thrustmaster make one for theirs.
the thrustmaster one is good but still to expensive for most people
Ikr, there's a lot of tracks on The new Dirt Rally, that are impossible to make a good time on without a hand brake. I'm not a handy guy either, so I don't won't to go mucking around with the internal mechanics of a wheel to do a DIY job.
Use a thrustmaster
@@fnf5943 You cannot use the thrustmaster handbrake, because it is no usb and you cannot connect the handbrake to a logitech base either..
I’m guessing as you’ve only just soldered it on to the lines you can still use b as a button on the Xbox wheel it’s self ?
Absolutely! I show this at the 3.35 mark.
Cheers must of not paid attention at that part as I was at work aha. And real great video. I’ve watched a few and thought it was gonna be a bit hard but watching yours made me not scared of doin it now. Plan on doin it to a and b cuz I play several different games an they have different buttons. And having the little jack ports makes it near to swap between buttons. Really loving that idea 👍🏼
I was looking at micro switches, the ones I see are 5 amp 250 volt. Does this matter?
Shouldn't, those ratings are what it can handle, not what it needs.
*EDIT 27 Sep 18: After using it for a while now, I have decided I need to readjust the micro contact method. I will look to add a stop of some sort so as to stop the handle coming all the way back as it would bend the micro arm too much, then you would need to pull it all the way back the next time to re activate it. Thinking of just a simple bolt through from one side to the next so the washer stops against it. Will update when done, whenever that may be. On a side note, Codemasters announced DiRT Rally 2 for a Feb 2019 release!
Hey mate, just wondering if you had a photo of where the headphone jack was wired into behind the wheel and it’s I really needed a jack or can I just run a straight wire? And also I don’t have a small enough soldiering iron, would I just be able to hold the wires in place with electrical tape. Thanks for any help
Photo at 1min51sec shows the jack. I'll see on my laptop if I have another, but it was basically on the lower half of the case away from where the force feedback motors sit. You could do without one and just have the wire running out just like the USB lead, I just wanted the neatness and also having an option to take it off. Personal preference. As for taping it, no way, it needs to be soldered. The thing is constantly rotating, so it needs to soldered.
19schuey okay. And where is the jack lead hooked up to underneath the cover of the wheel?
Blinco5racing27 I'm not sure what you mean. The lead goes from the jack up through the shaft as you can see at 1.57. That then connects to the wires that I have soldered to the B button tracks. I kept the leads to minimal length, but enough to allow movement and yet not get snagged.
19schuey yeah okay. So the jack is just wired onto the board, then lead through the hole and goes to the jack. It makes sense now. Thanks for the help
Hey man, I was just wondering what handbrake you used and where can I get one? or even any suggestions on any decent ones for a reasonable price... trying to build a rig on a reasonable budget
This is the one that I got off of eBay. All the other electronic bits I had in my RC stash or got from my local electronic outlet, Jaycar here in Aus. (Don't know where you are, in US it would be Radio Shack).
Perfect thanks👌🏻
I just ordered myn and was thinking.. Maybe you can go into settings in game or xbox home not sure and make it a sequential gear stick using third and fourth and then maybe making 2nd gear hand brake???
Sure can. See this video, not mine, but there are some who make up 3D printed plates to only allow 3/4th use and have spring to self centre it. I like the H pattern for the old style cars in Forza. F1 and modern GT/Le Mans style enduro cars have paddle shift, and yes some others notably touring and rally cars have stick sequential, I usually use the shifter. Not hard to put one of the plates in, so might just get one anyway so I have it on hand if I wish to do it. Using the plate though you wouldn't be able to utilise 2nd as HB, but don't think you can map that to HB anyway. ua-cam.com/video/8Vi-nUKuosY/v-deo.html
I want to solder to b button for FM7 and have watched a few videos now, one guy soldered one wire to the menu button and the other to x button, where you went straight to the b button tracks, whats the difference? link is to his videos ua-cam.com/video/6EooQfAlHV0/v-deo.html
Great job!!
Thanks
What did you use externally to plug into the back
TGx Cyclops Right angle 2.5mm jack. See pic at 8.04min.
19schuey Thank you for the feedback
good info, looks simple enough
Thank you. Yes simple, as long as you don't damage the PCB tracks.
19schuey ive been lucky so far soldering to cheap dpad boards so I should be ok
bsft cool, cheap Dpad boards are different to $400 units though! Be sure to post pics or videos of what you do.
19schuey Id have to dig out the pics and I did build something a while back. Next I will give it a go with a G27 set Ive got. As for videos , Ive got a few on my page of what Ive done with sim frames
Hey man, looking for some more info on this if you can help?
PreToPost sure, I'll help where I can. What do you want to know?
Firstly, why the 2 wire connection onto the motherboard rather than just running one to the button of choice? Also as with your case and the 2.5mm jack, can I use a usb
Not sure what you mean by one wire to the button. You need two as a minimum. That's how a switch works. Same as the button, effectively two wires, when you press it, it connects the two together. The tracks that I soldered to are obviously the tracks that make the switch under the B pad. Had to gently and carefully scrape some of the protective clear off of the track to expose it to allow the solder to hold. As for your USB question, that would be overkill because like I just said, it's only two wires, so I made it as minimal as possible. A USB socket would take up unnecessary space. You could just run the wire out and leave it long like all the others I had seen. I just wanted the ability to easily remove if I wanted. Also if I ever want to get a new brand of wheel and it doesn't have a handbrake, I have one already made that just requires a connection on the wheel. Does that answer your questions?
That does thank you. Was just wanting to see if using a USB port instead of a jack like you did was a viable way.
PreToPost glad to help. Just remember, more wires in a USB, means more work! Make sure to post a link to your video or photos of what you end up doing.
i miss that track dad
out of the box did the ailerons have more down throw then up? if so that's how its supposed to be. my umx cub, um P51 v1 and 2 all do this and fly fine. my guess is they do this for stabilty reasons. to much aileron throw on these tiny wings and you'll stall one of your wings out I guess. I recently found a used umx mig and it flies nice but has almost proper aileron throw. don't know if that's because it was used and previous owner tweaked stuff or its factory. but it has a little bit more down than up aileron. now I'm looking for a UM spitfire to add to my fleet of discontinued micros, hope u enjoy yours!
Thanks for this 19schuey! I had exactly the same problem 3 mins into my maiden! Unfortunately mine cut left into a tree... small dent in one of the wings, but hopefully it wont be a problem. Glad to know there's an easy fix!
I had this problem with my champ and fitted a new motor, it now loses signal so i am not sure if its a faulty board.
as far as the motor goes ... I just swapped my out with the same motor and does the same thing......im pretty sure that's how its supposed to run.... as far as the receiver goes?.... don't know.
The issue with the brick was a knocked off surface mount resistor, which I inadvertently tore off when pushing the motor out the back of the gearbox. It ripped the track off so its pretty stuffed. I bought a new brick all is good now. Motor runs very well after a few batteries through it, even though its still a bit Grundy.
*grindy
I had trouble with using pliers because of the motor's magnet/s ..... had to use a wooden skewer to push motor into place.