Відео

wow that desolder job on that opamp was savage. glue or not you would have most likely pulled a pad. get some low temp alloy solder. thank me later

Hi. Can i Bypass the hole Input-Board? Please i need Help.

good work and explanation what you are given . I face an issue in same unit that is going to protection and remove the TDA7293 it start working , so i replace with TDA7294 (instead of TDA7293) same not switching , how to solve this issue

Hola tengo un amplificador Inter m m 2000 , que tiene una canal que suena menos que el otro. La sensación que da es que el canal 1 a un mismo nivel de entrada que el canal 2 , suena más bajo y solo prende el primer led mientras que el canal 2 prende el primer y segundo led. Es como si necesitase mas sensibilidad de entrada. He probado a intercambiar los canales de entrada y a limpiar los potenciómetros y sigue igual. Me temo que sea algo del circuito de pre amplificación, el integrado o algún componente que falle. La música en ambos canales suena bien sin ruidos, el único problema es que para que no se note la diferencia de volumen el canal 1 debo subirlo al máximo y el canal 2 a poco más de la mitad. No se si le ha pasado algo parecido para ver que puede ser? Gracias saludos

Thanks man. Saved my bacon today!

I've had experience with Chinese lights not having an earth connected. My first pair of moving heads had that issue with no earth wired up, and they had a metal base. Personally I wouldn't take the risk buying random unbranded lights online. Also both Roxx and Chauvet make colour changing blinders (and there's probably a few other brands that make them).

is this still a good option over an analog Mackie or soundcraft mixer with 16 inputs and 4 aux??

I have a Mackie PA 180SW I need to refurbish. This video convinced me to keep instead of adding to the rubbish bin. Now to find a woofer.

pas mal

projects are always interesting! i just bought 2 martin mini macs one needs a new gobo motor and a new display.

Very cool info...it had me stumped! Thanks for posting!

Thank you! Saved me hours of frustration 😂

B&C & RCF coupled together. 🏆🏆🏆🏆

Hello there, great video😁 Definetely worked better than last time👍 I have one question. I have thwo Ehrgeiz Cobalt Plus Spot 90 which give me an error for all motors. They all move while calibrating (but very random) but dont find their calibrating position. Maybe you have an idea?😅 Thank you very much. Best regards

Is this the new sound to light feature? Just need to be close to the sub XD

Hey can you help me why my peavy 2600 turn off and on while im doing live performance

No ! Ribordaggio con modello foam sbagliato.bisogna ribordare con foam che veda sotto il cono dell altoparlante come lo era di fabbrica e non incollato sopra il cono...

Hello there, great video😁 I have one question: did the motors that gave the error move while calibrating or did the just do nothing? I have thwo Ehrgeiz Cobalt Pro Spot 90 which give me an error for all motors. They all move while calibrating (but very random) but dont find their calibrating position. Maybe you have an idea?😅 Thank you very much. Best regards

Very interesting, I have plenty of damaged speakers but have never got the nerve to fix them 😅, so perhaps it is time!. Where can you get the spare foam and the special glue and solvent? BTW, if you remove the center dome, you can use some paper to space the coil and magnet with more precission

Thanks, even with my glasses on I hadn't spotted the 'OPEN/PUSH' wording.

Nice.. that driver is made by B&C speakers

Brilliant thank you

como você conseguiu esses moving heads antigos e aonde achar esses moving heads antigos é só falar tá bom

I feel you bro with regard to the frustration on time and money spent on a project. What you need to do is charge the diags to the customer and send him back the working unit you purchased to keep them happy. Take time off of it and resume this project, because when you do figure out the problem later on down the road, it will feel so so good. Also, I’m not at all surprised on the difficulty in removing the parts from this thing. I’m inclined to say that it probably wasn’t because it was from a Chinese manufacturer, or it was engineered badly. I think it’s because these machines are incredibly complex, and have to fit a specific form factor, not to mention the harsh environments it has to operate in. Because of that, no amount of engineering would probably improve the serviceability of products like this.

That is EXTREMELY HEAVY so that is why sometimes you need another person to help you lift a light that could be 100LBS+

You are so lucky to have them. Where did you get them from ?

You should’ve cleaned the fan grill

donde puedo conseguir el plano de este amplificador

Great idea. I have had the Alesis HD24-XR model for many years and although I use a DAW these days, I did love this unit and it worked great with the Alesis BRC for most of the BRC commands. I am actually, trying to find out if the Lightpipe connections on the back of the Alesis HD24 remain active even if not recording as I thought it would be great to use this Alesis unit as an interface (so I can continue to mix on my analog board w/outboard gear). If the Lightpipe connecters are always on (both for input and output), in theory one could use the RME Digiface USB 66 to use the the Alesis unit as a 24 in/out interface to a DAW. (The RME converts Optical to USB) I prefer to mix analog as I have a lot of vintage outboard gear and this scenario would be great. Otherwise to get all those analog inputs and outputs I would have to invest in something like an Antelope Orion 32 Gen 4 or a Ferrofish unit to get all the analog in and outs. Nice video and a great idea you came up with. I will remember your fix should I put my Alesis unit back in service. They are great units...Thanks. Phil NYC / Jersey Shore area

👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Nicely done

J’ai de très mauvais souvenir avec mon amplis marantz il a fais cramer mon enceinte

Nice and informative, thank you.

hola man me puedes enviar el plano electrico,,

Helloo, je cherche du materiel durable mais sans non plus me ruiner. Tu conseilles quelle marque ?

490*C?? 300 is enough and safer to ic

2:30 why? Easy with hot air!

Nice one. Don´t forget to clean out the Flux with Isopropanyl, leaves a mess otherwise ;)

Très beau travail! Petite question tu chauffe fort ton heatgun?

Belle réparation et toujours aussi intéressant ! Pas toujours fan de la qualité d'Evolite (surtout pour la marge qu'ils se font !), on trouve certains modèle tout aussi chinois de meilleur qualité pour deux fois moins cher ..😅

Quand tu changes une pièce comme ça, à la station à air chaud, je te conseille de mettre du scotch kapton, pour éviter que les composants à côté ne bouge ^^

Is this one of those cheap moving heads from China or is it a proper brand.

OH tiens du evolite, en vrai ça ne m’étonne même pas, a mon ancien travail j'en avais pleins en SAV ou HS pour divers problèmes, je n'ai pas dutou confiance sur la qualité de fabrication de cette marque la...

Nice work!

❤❤❤❤

I picked up 2x Mac 500's and 600's for $20 each at a local thrift store. They came from a church apparently. When I plug them in they all show **** on the screen. I can't get them to do anything. Are they able to be brought back to life?

pour le nettoyage utilise du nettoyant frein c'est le top sinon alcool isopropylique

Il n'y a pas de terre sur cette machine !!! Sinon super vidéo ;)

Tgank you so much!!! ❤

Great Job!!! I wash repairing mac500/600/700/2000 many years ago:) there was few strange and sometimes funny issue :) a still have half of basement of parts 😂 and have nothing to do with them but dont want to throw them away 😂 i still have somwhere programem to change motherboard from Mac 500 to 600 etc. And few motherboards 😂nice time it was:) Now im light engineer and dont have time to repair 😢

That passive crossover looks pretty complicated. I would probably rip it off and use external DSP and bi-amping instead (at least if it was a little bit damaged). It would need some testing and measuring to figure out optimal settings for x-over and eq though.