- 3
- 11 702
MechBits
Приєднався 12 сер 2021
I build tech projects that combine hardware, software, and electronics!
LK67 Build (with PCB repairs)
A GamaKay LK67 build. Involves fixing loose hotswap sockets and broken power switch.
00:00 - Introduction
00:17 - Initial Build
00:48 - Switches
02:31 - Stabilizers
04:19 - The Debacle
04:46 - Keyboard Disassembly
05:31 - Power Switch Repair
06:38 - Keyboard Reassembly
07:55 - Sound Test (Before)
08:42 - Sound Test (After)
00:00 - Introduction
00:17 - Initial Build
00:48 - Switches
02:31 - Stabilizers
04:19 - The Debacle
04:46 - Keyboard Disassembly
05:31 - Power Switch Repair
06:38 - Keyboard Reassembly
07:55 - Sound Test (Before)
08:42 - Sound Test (After)
Переглядів: 195
Відео
Tidbit Numpad Build
Переглядів 11 тис.2 роки тому
A customized numpad build. Involves soldering, flashing firmware, and 3D-printing. 00:00 - Introduction 00:24 - PCB Plate 00:30 - SMD LED 00:55 - Reset Switch 01:08 - 1N4148 Diodes 01:43 - TRRS Expansion Jack 02:07 - Bit-C 02:27 - Rotary Encoder 02:33 - OLED Display Module 03:10 - Flashing & Testing 04:12 - FR4 Plate 04:38 - Glorious Panda Switches 04:57 - Back Plate 05:16 - Front Acrylic Cover...
Doorkeeper
Переглядів 2733 роки тому
A sign that lights up to leave a message when someone approaches your door. Involves Arduino software, soldering, and 3D-printing. 00:00 - Introduction 00:19 - Nano Board 00:43 - LCD 01:23 - PIR Sensor 02:16 - Slide Potentiometer 03:22 - Breadboard Prototype 04:34 - Protoboard 05:25 - Outer Casing 06:50 - Final Product Arduino Code Repo: github.com/mechbits/doorkeeper LiquidCrystal library: www...
Oh my god, the quality of the video is amazing. Just get better lightning and it will be studio quality.
Thanks for the advice!
Great video!
Thank you!
Would a oled hotswap socket work insted of the wires by chance?
thank you for the video really helpful. I'm running into this problem when trying to compile: keyboards/nullbitsco/tidbit/tidbit.c:18:10: fatal error: common/remote_kb.h: No such file or directory #include "common/remote_kb.h" ^~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ cc1.exe: all warnings being treated as errors compilation terminated. do you know what could it be? I try to follow all your steps, I don't know where I went wrong. THank you so much
Built my numpad watching this and it works perfectly. Great video!
I'll never stop feeling like an idiot watching this kinda stuff. Barely can use my washing machine properly
Hi there, I just finished building the Tidbit according to your video and I had flashed it and tested it without the OLED yesterday, but installed the OLED and finished up today, only to find out that numbers 4, 5 and 6 no longer work. It isnt the switches, the sockets in the PCB are not responding now. Is that because I have not flashed it with the Mechbits software so the OLED has cancelled the 4, 5 and 6 row with the default Tidbit firmware until I flash it with the Mechbits firmware? I made sure not to damage anything in the process of building it or installed the OLED. Thanks!
Noooo Where'd you go I miss you so Seems like it's been forever....since you've... been ... gone..
The guide shows to flash the MCU before soldering, but your vid seems to contradict this with the need for the reset button, or maybe I've been at this for too long today.
Flashing the MCU involves getting the Bit-C into the DFU mode. This is done by using the reset button or shorting specific pins on the keypad. I soldered the reset button on first to make the flashing step easier, but yes, you can flash the board by shorting specific pins before soldering anything.
@@mechbits I soldered it on and flashed later as well. Now the fun part lol figuring out qmk
@@SolomonSide3 Good luck! Feel free to ask more questions and I'll try to help out.
@@mechbits been having difficulty cycling through layers. I can get the layers to switch via TO but I can't get it to go back to the first layer (0). I also tried adding a second command to return to source (0) on every layer but that didn't work either. Also the oled updates the layer but the old text remains static on top. It's early days would've kept working on it but got sick this week
This video was so helpful! I was kinda confused looking at the github instructions...Thanks! Do you have an STL of the case you printed? Would you mind sharing it?
You're welcome! I have added my STL file of the case to the Github repo: github.com/mechbits/tidbit
I will probably never build one in my life, but it's nice to learn from this vid
Thanks!
Wait. How did that fr4 plate get installed? Without spacers? I’m sitting here with mine.. stuck.
Yes, there are no spacers between the FR4 plate and PCB. The switches just go through the FR4 plate and snap into the PCB.
Got it! Also. How did you get your oled stable on the left side? Thanks so much!
@@blasstois No problem! I used solid-core instead of multi-core wires because they're more rigid, so no support is necessary on the left side.
This is such a cute design.
Thanks!
Very good video!
Glad you liked it!
Looking Awesome 😍👌
Thank you!
Great storytelling and nice tutorial!
Thank you so much for the kind words!
Well done video. I think I'll do this as a project in the future.
Thank you!
Great vid, nice editing! Does this numpad support any stabs? I m thinking of getting one for the arrow key cluster and some function keys.
Thank you! Unfortunately, this numpad does not support stabs.
Thx for the great tutorial! I wanted to ask: Since you plugged the OLED into different contacts than are shjown in the build guide, are the pins for OLED, LED-matrix and alphanumeric Display interchangable? I want to mount a 1.3" OLED on mine and can't find any guide on which contact is which.
The Public Github Tutorial has a placement guide for different displays. If you stray from this guide (like I did) you may have to rearrange the wiring. However, since I don't see the 1.3" OLED display listed as an option, you may experience issues with the OLED Driver when trying to flash firmware.
Love your OLED placement. Would you be able to share your hex file for QMK with the OLED in that position?
Thank you! I have updated the description with the Github repo: github.com/mechbits/tidbit
@@mechbits amazing! Thanks!
You're welcome!
@@mechbits Hey, was looking at the github file. Was wondering how you compiled it and flashed it?
@@blazicblue I have updated the Github repo with more detailed instructions!
Great video on the build. I keep trying to find a step by step guide for the flashing part.
Glad I could help! There is a link in the description that you may find helpful for getting started on flashing: docs.qmk.fm/#/newbs_getting_started
Great video. Gives me a better context of what to expect before I work on my build. Quik question, what 3d printer are you using? I'm planning on investing in one so I can work on creating more custom stuff. Thanks!
Thank you! I am currently using the Creality Ender 5, but I would not recommend this printer for larger prints because there is only one z-axis that moves the bed (as opposed to a dual z-axis), which causes lots of vibrations. I have heard pretty good things about the Prusa Mini and the Creality Ender 3 as printers with large communities and easy access to resources.
This is so cool! Your tutorial is very well made and easy to follow. Thanks for posting!
Glad you enjoyed it!
thanks for the tutorial! does the kit come with the necessary diodes, caps, and ICs?
Thanks! The base kit comes with everything except the FR4 plate, Bit-C MCU, OLED display model, wires, switches, keycaps, and 3D-printed case (plus longer M2 screws and rubber bump-ons).
@@mechbits I thought so. Thanks!
No problem!
thank you for the video im building one myself soon and your video explained a lot and simplified the steps so i dont overthink everything :)
Glad that I could help! Feel free to reach out if you have any questions!