Відео

@@GabuFrik too bad the servers are permanently off for the wiiu. I have it now on PC but can't download the DLC to play online. I may jump to ME4

It's from the UA-cam free music library. I won't be able to look up the song till next weekend as I'm away from my PC.

organic guitar house - dyalla

@@Exhaust_power thanks bro!

I'll check when I get home it just rained pretty hard so I'll be able to tell you. But that is a common issue with the tail light seals and the age of the car.

ua-cam.com/users/shorts81U8VkWdR2Q?si=d3_82NJIPn_C7Ngn

I've never heard of a issue. But I may just not have come across it. But the only way I can see a backing plate causing issue is if it was broken and causing the park brake cable to get caught on it.

I'm not sure what you mean. Aftermarket time clock?

😁. you should have brought it out today!

That was a Graco infant car seat so it was good for maybe a year and a half. My son is 2 and too big to fit. So that seat does not accommodate for much growth. I also didn't have the base in. I will have to test for a forward facing seat.

4.5k USD? Whats your currency? What engine is in it? Auto or Manual? Car prices are higher than usual right now. If you feel your over paying, I would at least make sure the body is in very good shape. If you're mechanically inclined everything else can be fixed over time.

@@Exhaust_power 4.5 cad

@@Exhaust_power its a stick shift with stock engine and has a air intake

Correct the gauge has to be able to read the correct ohms and the full range of ohms. For my gauges to read correctly it's only taking advantage of empty to about half a tank.

@@Exhaust_power thank u for the extra clarification🙏

I hope your problem is just a simple screw too. I'll take a loose screw any day over something broken 😅

Well my screw didn't fall out I had my window about 2/3 of the way down and someone leaned in on it and bent the track brackets and the window came out of the tracks so I figured it out and straightened the track brackets. Thanks again

@@kik4604 glad you figured it out 👍🏿

Well I've had loose screws before but this time it wasn't loose and it wasn't lost. The window came out of the track and I was able to put it back in but then it happened again. I was able to adjust the track brackets into a better alignment and so far so good. My problem started after one of my friends leaned in on my window when I had it partially down 👍

@@kik4604 I hope that fixed your issue. If not probably pulling a salvage one could be the fix needed.

Made about 150whp 143wtq on a mustang dyno. I have other videos with the mod list 4-2-1 headers with 2.5 collector mod. High flow cat, and eBay exhaust. Cam regrind, port match intake to head to exhaust. Head and intake is slightly ported also. 9.97:1 C:R

@@snuron happy New Year's we have a group on what's app with veterans. But message me privately because what's app is my actual phone number. The times the guys usually get on is 3pm usually during the week "eastern time".

I'm from NEPA. You say front differential like the transfer case? I have yet to change one. But I will be sometime soon.

True the sound got a bit deeper with the new speakers. But also I'm looking for clarity more so. I have a sub for the mids and lows

What do you mean? A shop price? I'm not sure what one would charge. For me personally only cost me maybe less than a $100 for parts.

Depends where the sound is coming from. If it's coming from the center point of the driveshaft it could very well be the center bearing. If it's closer to the rear differential and or transfer case I would get it looked at Sooner than later.

Thanks.@@Exhaust_power

I wish I could have attend, but the fact that it was postponed for weather didn’t work for me. Kinda sucks too since I just got my prelude in June. Was really looking forward to meeting the community

Thanks for being a big contributor of the community. It's always nice to see your clean preludes!

@@cecilthecavetroll9743 funny thing the weather helped my availability as I was moving at the time of the original date. Hopefully you can make it to the next one!

www.ebay.com/itm/152089647436?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=-p2h0CRzRNW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=6F0wNkD1T4G&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Part # HON-k0711dd for a Honda element 07-11

Phantoms probably have killed me as much as banshees 🙃 they sit around the corner waiting for you to get close 🤺

Only if yours is leaking or broken. I changed my differential cause I had no AWD. So does yours have problems?

Correct when removing the coupler it's only mated to the diff with 4 bolts and then slides off of the splined shaft. You got it in terms of steps! If you were only changing the diff seal then I would keep the diff bolted in. You are changing the axle seals as well? If all seals are being changed at the same time then it would be better to pull the diff out. But you can do them all with the diff in. It's just easier to see how the seal sits. I have done the axle seals separately before though.

@@Exhaust_power Thanks very much for the amazingly prompt reply! The two side seals were changed under warranty maybe 7 years ago and they're not leaking now. Only the front seal is leaking (knock on wood), so that's the only one I'm going to replace. How long do you think it should take an experienced, motivated DIYr (or, for that matter, an experienced Mitsubishi technician) to replace just the front seal? (BTW, if it's important, our vehicle is a 2010 XLS with V6.) The reason I ask about a Mit. tech. is that a local Mit. dealer quoted over $1,000 to replace just the front seal. Thanks again for your great video and prompt reply.

@@John-wc2zv no problem. I think it should take about 2.5-4 hours depending on how fast you can take the seal itself out. That's the hardest part of the job, but if you have the right seal puller it could be done in 3 or less. That's for me to do it on the ground. I can see it being done a little faster in a shop. If you did it yourself the difficulty is not high at all probably a 6 out of 10(=hard) just depending on if your center shaft bolts come out easy and having a proper seal puller.

@@Exhaust_power Thanks again for the great advice and prompt reply. I believe what you say about getting the right seal puller. Last year I did a complete timing belt job + water pump, tensioner, idler pulley AND camshaft seals and crank seal. I had to use a 90-degree pick to get the old cam seals out and it took me literally hours of pull, pull, pulling to finally get them out of there. My custom made, plastic-pipe installation tools were not that great. I screwed up the first attempt to install a new crank seal, but I got the second one in there, no problem. No oil leaks at all for the last year. Knock on wood. Mit. must have a "special tool" to install the front seal evenly. Did you find that you could press the seal in with a tool, or did you use your fingers and carefully center the seal and push it in without tipping it? Thanks again.

@@JohnSmith-tv2zz no problem, glad I can help. So you already know how annoying it can be without the right tool 😁. Pulling out the seal is a little difficult, puting it in is easy. I taped all the way around with a hammer and extension. I used my finger to make sure the seal was even with the housing. I'm sure if you had a object the same circumference it would be easier to drive in.

Thanks I remember you commented a few times. I still have lot of car work to do and film. But normally once a week I will upload a car video. But with gaming I can do a video a day. How's your Toyota treating you? They are usually very good cars.

@@Exhaust_power i got a rav4 high mileage when prices were really high last year. had to replace the torque converter and other major work. the local mechanic shop costs an arm and a leg, but they got the Toy running good again.