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@@azjoe_6310 it could be damaged or loose wiring. Usually field installed wiring. Make sure there are no splices, the correct wire was used and that it isn’t running through any conduit

@@austindillon443 Thank you so much for the reply! I greatly appreciate you taking the time to respond. My tech is retuning in a few days to replace a board on my York package unit so I will follow up with this information. Have a great 2025!

@ of course and good luck with the York package unit. I used to work for a York distributor and remember lots of boards being replaced due to moisture being pulled into the control compartment because of the negative pressure created by the blower

@@austindillon443 Thanks for that info as well!

@@jasondesantis4122 yes it is!

@@jakepitt7864 thanks for the feedback!

@@willkitchen8566 glad it helped! Thank you for the feedback and for buying Carrier

@@jasondicioccio880 I’m not familiar with that fan coil off hand. I’d move the compressor call to y2 on the outdoor unit. What is it landed on, on the air handler?

​@@austindillon443 thanks for the response, Austin! So, I didn't check the fan coil wiring, but I did move the termination from Y1 to Y2 on the outdoor unit. The difference is quite dramatic. On two ~100 degree days: with Y1, it couldn't hold its set temp of 74. It got up to 78. Y2: it was able to hit it/maintain it fairly easily. The documentation that I found for the 38MURA states that Y1 is perfectly acceptable as well; that it just ramps more slowly, but will still eventually reach maximum output. From what I can tell, this is *not* true. Temps at the registers were ~6-7 degrees cooler with Y2, even comparing it to Y1 that had been running for hours and hours (so, you'd think it'd be fully "ramped" by that point) Ideally though, you wire both of them and get the best of both worlds.

@@jasondicioccio880 thanks for the feedback, that’s great to know and I’m glad it working well for you now

In the installation manual it talks about landing the Y wire on Y1 will allow for a slower ramp up. Sounds like this would be a good solution for you if you can't run a separate wire for both Y1 and Y2

@@ewcy It should be fine to use two of the 18g thermostat wires for s1/s2 communication. Thanks!

I believe we would also need to know how the outdoor unit was wired. If it is all 24v, then the operation you describe is probably correct. If it is S1/S2 communicating, then I would expect that the air flow should modulate as up and down as you get closer/further away from set point

There is no other drain pan or outlet. If it is leaking i would start by checking that it is installed level and that all of the line set connections are insulated, as they can condensate during operation and drip down the wall. If that all checks out, you may want to remove the pan and check for a crack

When I pour water into the front drain pan I get no leaks. How does the condensation from the rear fins get into the drain pan in the front?

@@JayBergCustoms how old is the installation? The water runs down the fins and into the drainpan. If the coil is extremely dirty, it can prevent that water running down correctly

It’s less than two years old, but my garage is a wood shop so lots of dust. I cleaned the coils with self rinsing foam today. Didn’t help. I noticed in another carrier disassembly video that there’s a channel behind the blower that runs around to the left and down to the front drain pan. I’d assume that’s the route the condensation wants to take, but no think mine is blocked. I’m a leetle skeerd to take it apart myself, so will call a pro in the morning.

In a dual fuel application, the indoor air flow and staging of said airflow is the main driver for capacity since, as you stated, the unit will modulate to manage suction line pressure and super heat and indoor air volume will be the main factor affecting evaporator load It would be a shame to install this outdoor unit with a furnace that was only capable of delivering single stage airflow. If that is the case, I’d recommend y2 outside Anecdotally, we have found very little difference in operation between y1 and y2 and monitoring compressor frequency while alternating calls did not result in overt changes to the compressor speed. My understanding, which seems to be supported by your literature there, is that coil saturation temp is the primary variable that changes between y1 and y2. If you’re looking for better dehumidification, a colder saturation temp (y2) would seem like a better choice

@@austindillon443 I totally agree. The source of the confusion is that in carrier crossover training presentations, it stays to not stage the fan - just y1/y2 and that y1 just produces a longer rampup to full capacity. This contradicts the literature for other re-brands that say y1 and y2 set target saturated pressure target. For dual fuel I would want the fan staged as well as y1/y2 input in heating mode. In dual fuel for a/c mode , I would be tempted to do some creative wiring that forces a y2 call to the outdoor unit for better dehumidification all the time but just the fan gets staged - or something along those lines. or forces a y2 call during a call for dehumidification with a variable speed blower furnace that slows fan.

@@Jon-hx7pe I don’t believe it’s as much about a slow ramp up as it is about the changes in algorithms and targets. I’ve heard it stated as slow ramp up as well though. My guess is that is just an easy way told providing a quick explanation I would definitely avoid single stage blower operation whenever possible as it greatly reduces the value this unit can provide. It wouldn’t be difficult to wire the thermostat to the furnace to provide staged airflow and then just wire y1 from the furnace to y2 of the outdoor unit. This should provide staged airflow and maintain the outdoor units y2 algorithm and targets Thanks for the question

@@austindillon443 the y1 target would be more efficient in heating if only one stage is needed. anyhow - yah, there are many different ways to potentially to configure it.

@@Jon-hx7pe the challenge with this product has definitely been trying to speak to all of the different control options and their respective pros and cons

Historically, the problem with 24v thermostats (like an eco bee) paired with inverter systems is that they failed to provide the unit with some analog data that helped to inform the modulation of the compressor, indoor fan, refrigerant metering, etc. Instead they provide binary inputs which leaves the equipment “working blind” to some extent. Often in these cases, the units would revert to a sort of staged or fixed compressor speed operation which detracted from their abilities as inverters In the case of these systems, that problem is circumvented by the use of a return air sensor value that is substituted for what would otherwise be the wall control sensor value. This allows the units to retain full inverter operation In some situations there are potential logic flaws in this approach but under normal circumstances it works well and allows the unit to operate as it otherwise would with the wall control, retaining full inviter operation. In the instances where this logic fails, there is a back up program that takes over for the duration of the heating/cooling call Overall this approach has been very well received and reliable for us I hope that helps!

Hi John, to some extent or another, it is always working as an inverter but there are two variables that dictate exactly how that inverter operates. Variable 1 is whether it has the wired controller or a 24v thermostat Variable 2 is whether is has 2 wire communication between the indoor and outdoor unit or 24v connections The primary factor is the 2 wire communication between the indoor and outdoor units and we recommend using this method whenever possible The wired controller achieves slightly more concise/coordinated operation over the 24v thermostat but comes at the cost of losing the features and convenient operation that a 24v thermostat provides. My personal preference would be a 24v thermostat with 2 wire communication between the indoor and outdoor equipment Hope that helps and congratulations on the new home and system!

@@austindillon443 regarding your comment -"My personal preference would be a 24v thermostat with 2 wire communication between the indoor and outdoor equipment ", in this case, how would you wire the 24v thermostat so that 38MURA/40MUAA is not limited to a single stage. Is there a diagram that shows the wiring between thermostat + 40MUAA + 38MURA. Appreciate any guidance that you could provide...

@@georgedsilva Even though the 24v stat would only call for 1 (or potentially 2) stages of compressor operation, the air handler still communicates with the outdoor unit to coordinate operation. It works off of and shares return air sensor information that it uses in lieu of the wall controller values. This allows it to still modulate. The connections between the indoor and outdoor unit would be S1/S2 comm ad the 24v connections would be R,C,G,Y1, O/B and Aux/E if you have back up heat. You could use Y1 and Y2 if you so desired. Thanks!

@@austindillon443 my system is currently set up as S1/S2 and 24v connection using Y1 and Y2; my Ecobee shows my system running as Stage 1 cool, and sometimes as Stage 2 cool. Would this set up limit this variable speed unit to just two stages? I also tried my 24v connection wired with just Y1. In this case, ecobee thermostat would just show 'cool' without mentioning any stages. Is this running as a single stage unit with this set up? Between these two set up, which one would be the recommended set up that can take advantages of these system's full potential? Thank you for your last comment.

PEBKAC

Hi heat models are defined as being able to deliver 100% (or close to) of nominal capacity at 5*f You are correct that the 24k unit out performs the 30k, in heating, at low temperatures There is nothing that can be added to improve delivered heating capacity. Your best bet would be to either divide the job into 2 smaller single zone units or to use a multizone 30k unit, which is high heat Depending on the indoor unit you are considering, there may be other options.

I’ll see what I can do, thank you!

The pump only operates when the unit is running in cooling so there is not a strict need to prevent water from draining back toward the unit. The lift requirements published are to ensure that a volume of water greater than the capacity of the drain pan is not allowed to to drain back and overflow from the pan. It’s not uncommon to get noise complaints on pumps in cassettes due to the pump running continuously, whenever there is an active cooling call Thanks!

Hi, I just had this unit installed, but mine only has a remote controller not a wall control. How can I tell what the actual temperature is since it doesn’t show on the actual unit and doesn’t show on the remote? Remote only shows the set temperature.

I have heard that general complaint with ductless splits. There are a lot of factors, both in terms of environment, home construction and installation that may attribute to it. Additionally, what you are using to measure and where you are measuring rh% can have an impact. Are the units installed on outside walls? If so, the most common issue is a lack of proper sealing of the penetrations for line set and drain connections. Ensuring correct drainage is important as well. Since, if water remains in the pan after the cycle, the fan will convect it into the room and in increase rh%. Also, because the coil is wet after a cycle and the fan continues to run, you may see a small rh% spike for a time after the cycle. It sounds a little extreme but you can use a bucket to measure the amount of moisture that is being removed and do some enthalpy calculations to determine if it is removing moisture at the correct rate. Thank you!

Thanks for the prompt answer. Two of the units are mounted on outside walls and one in an inside wall with a condensation pump; all have the same behavior. But I will try to validate the sealing on the walls. On your comment about ensuring the correct drainage, is there anything to do on this unit to make sure we maximize the drainage?? (increasing the pan slope or something similar). In my case I believe that is the problem. I have a monitor that records the temperature and humidity and in a graph I can see that when the temperature is dropping the humidity is also going down, as soon as the temperature stabilizes, the humidity spikes up. Thanks very much again for taking the time!

@@JeanLedesma All you can really do is check the level of the unit (make sure it isn't pitched away from the side of the drain connection, and make sure that the drain lines do not have nay traps in them. Again though, it isn't uncommon to see a spike in RH% when the cycle ends and the unit blows air over the wet coil. I don't remember if that unit has the feature or not, but some have 'self cleaning' modes in which they turn off the fan for a few minutes after the cycle to allow the coil to dry off before turning the fan back on Thanks!

Hi, the document is the service manual for the 40MHHQ highwall (which is now phased out for newer revisions) the file name of that document, from Carrier, was SG-40MHH-03. Unfortunately, carrier keeps these docs behind a login so I can not share a link that would work. However, hopefully if you google that file name, you will be able to find something. If not, reach out to me directly and I can try to email it to you. Thank you

Take a look at the video around the 2:54 mark - you can see the drain connection on the left hand side (it can be on either side, so yours may be on the right) - there is a flexible connector that connects to the unit drain pan and then to the field installed drain. This connector can be removed from the unit and blown out from that location. Also ensure that the drain is pitched correctly and tat there are no dips or traps anywhere in the run which will prevent the water from draining from the pan. Thanks!

@@austindillon443 Thanks a lot for your response. I will try that.

If you want to use a thermostat that is configured as a heat pump - in your case 2h/1c, then yes, you would need an isolation relay to manage the O/B call. Using a heat pump thermostat offers the ability to control emergency heat independently and to set controls around the use of the back up heat as an AUX heat source

Thank you, sir !

Glad it helped

Unlike the 40MBAB/40MBAA, this air handler receives it's power from a dedicated circuit, regardless of whether or not an electric heat package is installed. Thanks!

@@austindillon443 got it thank you! I wonder why the diagram says power from outdoor unit or it’s on independent power like if it’s an option.

@@Sccccxxx If you let me know where you saw that, I can look into it. But the 40MUA air handler, as of right now, is definitely powered independently from the outdoor unit. As you noted, this is different than other indoor options, including other air handlers, that connect to single and multizone ductless outdoor equipment, like the 38MARB, 38MBRC and 38MGR/HBQ. Thanks!

The unit has an advanced dehumidification feature that can be configured to provide additional dehumidification during a cooling call. Since this unit uses 3rd party thermostats, You would just have to have a thermostat capable of providing that call. Note that this feature is only available if you do not have electric heat installed. Otherwise, it can be interlocked with a whole home dehumidifier that can be tied into it's duct system. This is a common approach for providing additional dehumidification capabilities when the unit itself does not suffice. This is common in locker rooms or other such places where humidity is high or in instances when outside air is being brought in and humidity control is necessary. Good luck!