Відео

It has SC01, Free Unlimited Supercharging. Transfer wasn't difficult at all, just a regular ownership transfer.

I guess I should've mentioned in the video, both of those repairs were done under warranty. It used to be that most versions of Model S and X up until 2017 had an 8 year, unlimited mileage powertrain warranty (which covers the battery and drive units). That said, a used front drive unit can be had pretty cheaply (~$2-3k). Battery packs are more expensive, but still attainable. Oftentimes drive units and batteries can be repaired rather than replaced (just not something they do at the Service Center, but something I do perform at my shop).

@@AlexEVRepair Thanks for the clarification! I like the idea - which may be wrong - that as battery prices come down, and battery module level replacement becomes affordable, electric cars ‘should’ be able to do 500K+ miles. Especially for handy people like you, but I hope it would work out for a broader population.

Don't where you live, but after I started test driving all Tesla models last December, I WAS HOOKED! It took until Memorial Day weekend when I bought a lightly used -22 Model S and WOW!!

Probably because you have MCU1... On those, the configuration change needs to be done with Toolbox 3.

@AlexEVRepair and? What can I do? 🫣 maybe CHadeMO is a better way to charge my Tesla 🤔

The CHAdeMO adapter is limited to 50kW, but the CCS adapter can deliver over 250kW (which is obviously more power than your 85D can accept). Charging speed should be similar to what you get when Supercharging, assuming of course you can get the battery properly preconditioned, which can't be done "manually" on Teslas, so you kinda have to get a bit creative, particularly if the battery is cold.

@@AlexEVRepair Supercharging rarely gets me more than 50kW either. I don't want to upgrade to CCS if it won't get me more than that, so I guess it's not worth the upgrade. Thanks for the response!

Pretty much the same for me (and most other Model S on the 70/85kWh architecture packs). My car might spike up to 100kW for a few seconds if I plug in at ~10% SoC and temps are warm outside, but very quickly drops to ~70kW, then tapers from there. Usually by the time I hit 50% SoC, it's down to ~50kW or less. In colder temps, the charging is even slower.

@@AlexEVRepair sounds the same as much charging curve as well

Used PDMs can usually be sourced for around $500-700, and it's about 5 hours of labor to do the swap.

Swapping the battery does require some programming if swapped for an "alike" battery, but that can easily be performed with LEAFspy Pro. The battery can also be upgraded to a larger size pack from a newer model, but that requires a bit more effort and hardware.

hey dude do you know if the 2016 smarts fortwo electrics have this countdown timer? mine has 34 thousand miles on it.

​@@brianwillis1577AFAIK the 451 does not have this. It is mentioned IIRC by EV Clinic from Zagreb

It would be possible, if the parts were available to do so. The whole assembly is not terribly expensive used (~$500) as these things go though, since they are quite plentiful. The labor is the most expensive part of the whole job.

Technically, yes. I've done it that way once before, but getting the lid off while it's still mounted in the car is a pain. I'd say this way is (marginally) easier.

I just opened this shop about 6 months ago (I used to work at a shop in the San Diego area for about 7 years, and am currently "partnered" with them, hence the QC Charge name). EV rides certainly has a.... "reputation" in the independent EV repair world, especially when it comes to LEAFs. Not an outfit I would care to do business with.

@@AlexEVRepair ahhh I didn't know much about their reputation, I just figured since y'all are both EV focused and close to one another, there might be some communication. That's cool you've come from San Diego though and get to do your own thing!

It's MCU2 (Intel).

thanks for your fast response❤️I am in eastern europe currently and there is only few chademo charging stations , so I am thinking to move on ccs, but my 2015 model S has mcu1 and as I know there is a difference in retrofit module beetween mcu1 and mcu2, I am still dont know which module should i buy ( i mean part numbers)

The module is not different, but with MCU 1 you need to use a Toolbox 3 subscription to change the configuration, as it doesn't have the menu option in service mode.

@@AlexEVRepairthank you ❤❤❤

I used to work there (and am still "partnered" with them). Just moved up here to Portland and opened this shop about 6 months ago.

Right, that's sort of the point... This retrofit allows the car to charge via CCS at non-Tesla DC fast chargers. It can still of course charge at the Superchargers (for free in the case of this car), but now all other stations are also available to charge, including in places where there might not be any Superchargers around, but where other charging exists.

@@AlexEVRepair yeah noticed that after watching more. my bad hahah.

Still not enough space to do that (at least on my lifts). Also, the positioning of the normal rear lift point actually gets in the way of removing the battery. If I do more of these in the future, I may need to invest in some "wheel lift" adapters pick it up from the tires.

@@AlexEVRepair Interesting. Would a pinchweld lift adapter provide enough clearance on your lift? The ones we have are a much smaller profile than the standard lift pads.

Depending on what year it is, 60mi actually might be doing pretty good! Particularly for early model LEAFs, battery degradation is pretty common. In most cases, the only fix for that is to swap in a better condition pack. It's also possible to upgrade the battery to a larger capacity one out of a newer model (40 or 62kWh), though that can be quite pricey...

Hi Chris, I think I responded to an email from you about a week ago. There's no special procedure to swapping the 12v battery, just swap it out like any other car. As far as resetting the service interval for the desiccant cartridge, there's no way to "tell" the car it's been swapped, it's simply a service screen reset (much like an oil life reset on an ICE). On the ED4/EQ models, it's as simple as navigating to the service interval screen on the IC, then just press and hold the OK button on the steering wheel until it says it's been reset, ED3 and earlier models are a little bit more tricky, but it's just a combination of key cycles and button presses. In terms of "un-bricking" the HV battery, that depends on what the actual failure mode is that caused it to get bricked in the first place... If it's a contactor counter issue like I dealt with in this video, then the steps are basically as seen here (I'm considering "buying" the reprogramming procedure for this repair, as seemingly nobody else in North America does it, so in the future, I might be able to perform that service if you sent the BMS here). Alternatively, if the issue is that the BMS has gone into "junkyard mode" and has started self discharging the pack, then time is of the essence, as if the HV battery gets too far discharged, it *cannot* be recovered. I'm happy to give some quick tips if needed, but I'm not in the business of "repair consulting", so you're on you own in terms of actually doing the work... But there's plenty of forum posts and videos out there on these subjects with lots of useful info.

Not sure what you mean by protecting from future liability, but generally I have a one year warranty on all my workmanship. That said, as I mentioned in later parts of this series, doing this particular "kind" of repair is probably not something I would be willing to do on a customer's car, simply too much room for future problems to occur, and also some pretty significant caveats. In a situation like this, I would probably recommend replacing the pack(s) entirely.