Відео

be fr tho how do you make a right turn with this in a car

Just to follow up, replacing these items did 100% long-term fix these codes /issues!

Beer and working on cars

did you seriously not follow up on this?

Change your oil every 5K with good oil and filter Thats all it takes to keep a engine healthy Don't cheap out and no need for most expensive for every day driver

Do you have a step by step replacement for those parts you’re suggesting could be the problem from the codes it’s reading?

1 riced out vete.

The recon shifter on my kids bike had me struggling to shift gears.

Any idea where I can purchase a new sensor - I have a 1992 240 - thanks

That does look pretty good.

1:53 look at the tests it crushes every other filter...

Flow rate is also VERY important. The Mobil 1 is 30 micron and has the best flow rate.

Good until you get hit in the face with a drive

Update: The vacuum control valve absolutely needed this fix AND the codes came back! I ended up cleaning the MAF too and that seeeeems to have fixed it.

can you please do one of putting it on the lift and off next time?

Nice 💪🏽

My man’s on vacation in his Hawaiian shirt, cut’n open oil filters! Good job

This interests me because Mann-Hummel is the manufacturer of the OEM Hyundai oil filters. I just did the first oil change on my new 2024 Elantra N, posted photos from the oil change, and everyone jumped my ass for using a non-OEM filter. It particularly aroused their ire that I had dared to install a Fram (I used a Titanium). They said that there is a Hyundai TSB about non-OEM oil filters. I haven’t seen this TSB, but I’ve seen it referenced in a couple of different forums. Anyway, I wonder what the similarities between the two would be.

Interesting. BITOG brought me here. I’ve never paid a lot of attention to oil filters, aside from buying what I thought were premium or upper end filters like the Fram Ultra or Titanium. Now I find myself getting more interested since I bought an Elantra N, which, being a high performance turbo 4 banger, can easily reach some pretty high oil temperatures, compared with our Tacoma and our Odyssey. I just did the first oil change. I went to AAP and they had both the Titanium and the OEM Hyundai, so I bought the Titanium, thinking it probably had better construction than the OEM Hyundai (Mann-Hummel). Now, seeing as how Fram has dumbed these down by removing the wire backing, I’m sorta questioning my choice. I still think it’ll be OK for the 5000 mi (max) OCI I plan to do, given that it’s rated for 20,000 miles.

Thanks for sharing ! It seems Shimano is only doing these pish/pull shifters with 7 speeds but my kid bike has 6 sprockets. Do you know if the 7-speed shifter would be functional with a 6-gear sprocket and rear derailleur? Thanks !

That purolator boss is the best filter there. Not sure where the heck you’re getting the filtration numbers from. Its full synthetic media, not to mention the thickest can out of the bunch

I have used Bosch filters only, on my 15 years old VW T5 2.5 TDI. Together with Castrol Edge LL 5w30, changin every 20000 km, it's working good.

I have never heard of an application of a filter where it didn't have an internal bypass it's kind of a safety feature built-in to the filter because unfiltered oil is better than nothing at all

I use the fram Ultras on my car It's a different model number The filter media looks exactly like the one on the titanium It has that reddish pink color. My models an XG918 it's a cartridge style filter so no can

Did you get tge quickjack to work on your vettes? I'm getting one to work on my corvette.

The Framboys will not approve this video

Louvers are the worst design , I have sent back many filters after looking down and seeing louvers that were either not stamped all the way through or completely blocked.

I realize this is two year old post, however I don't see anything on how you fixed the ZF6 rattle. Most often these days it's exacerbated by the switch from dual mass to single mass flywheels. Maybe I am missing something, but how did you solve the ZF6 rattle mentioned in the title?

Forget about how they are constructed, how well does each one filter small particles of dirt? Looks can be deceiving.

By the condition of the old headliner it looks better

Just skipped over mobil 1

So I just bought an 89 zf6 car. My "rattle" is so loud it sounds like a damn rod knock. What did you "tune up" to fix this?

There seems to be zero consideration for the length of the filter medium.

Was the engine running during this process?

Just change your oil, Mobil 1 or Valvoline Syn and Fram filter every 3K miles and you are good. It's worth the money and your engine will last forever. Don't forget to service your cooling system as well and don't leave it in there when it says lifetime it's not. I go 3 years or 30K and replace the coolant, and thermostat, and check for leaks. At 60K I do a major service and the list is long but it keeps me on the road.

All these WIX fanboys. 😅 I been buying the cheapest filters I can find for yearsssss. Super tech is my go to. No problems whatsoever. If you want to pay $14 for a filter great. Nobody is mad at you 😅

The Purolator Boss filter is much better than what you are claiming. Brand Ranks built a serious test rig and its still at the top of leaderboard. Does it hold up to the 99%+ rating? no because thats unrealistic for us normal people and done outside of a lab.

What's the inlet size of this filter?

Never witnessed an engine suffering lubrication related damage using mid-level oil filters changed at regular intervals.

None of the participants is wearing a helmet. This tells me this was a parade lap/demo lap scenario where no one is at racing speeds. Crashing a car in a situation like this is....special.

Filter ! "I don't even know her"

How do you atttach this rack to the head tube?

It's my understanding that the Ultra & Titanium filters are no longer being made with the wire backing at all. It's also my understanding that the cores on both of those have been changed to the louvered style. You should probably look at the production date code. It is very likely you got some filters right around the changeover or you got a couple of old stock filters. I'm pretty sure this has been mentioned on BITOG but there are reports of the media tearing on some of the NON wire backed filters but I can't remember if it was the Ultra or the Titanium. I know one BITOG member started using Purolator Boss filters when Fram stopped using the wire backing in the Ultra's. Then a bit ago he stated he stopped using the Boss filters not because of a component change but because of quality control issues. I believe he mentioned he is now using the Fram Endurance filters.

Purolator Boss for flow and Amsoil for filtration

Did you get a lot of use out of it? Thinking of it's worth it prior to a regular walking bike... Thanks!

I have the same headlights does only the bottom half of yours work or the whole light only the bottom half of mine works tryna figure out why

I have never seen a drain back oil filter test. So, whose filters drain back valve really works the best?

You need to bleed the clutch on the slave cylinder located on the transmission. The fluid absorbs water threw condensation over time. Change it every 3 years or 30,000 miles. Buy a vacuum bleeder for $30. Watch my 300ZX brake bleeding clutch bleeding video to see how to bleed the C5 clutch, because they're both rear wheel drive transmissions. You can also put air in the line if you drain the reservoir too much. Them air bubbles might mean the reservoirs seals are bad. It has a seal around the push rod that connects to the foot peddle. So check under the dash and see if brake fluid is leaking inside from the reservoir seal on the firewall. That's probably where the bubbles are from. A clutch can not bleed air out itself if under pressure. No, you got a bad seal making them bubbles. Replace the reservoir, and buy some ramps and get under the car to bleed the clutch slave cylinder.

Awesome! Thanks

FINALLY!!!...one point for Fram, and 99 points for PUROLATOR!!!