Відео

Yes, sir, most likely … the test that I did was not conclusive… the sensor was brand new OEM… also, the new ecm fixed the issue, all in all, I think it’s safe to blame the ecm and get the next one…

Not that I know of… always a suspect, though, being the drivers door…

Thank u for watching, yes, it had to go, replaced with a used one, from what I hear…

Sure… you already did… :))

@@alexblok883 hey so I have a fuse blown but the people who fixed my car but aluminum foil to keep contact and is the only reason my car starts can I do what u did in the video to solve the problem ?

@@alexblok883 I may have to show a pic to let you see how bad it is I have a Lexus gs 350 but I got like the limited model idk jus what it say on the side of the car

@@42editz71 ok, post your pictures, we all will look at it this way …

@@alexblok883 how can I post them

U installed it - u have to charge for it… charge the cost of the alternator to cover your end of it, plus whatever hours u bill…

Thank u for taking time to comment on this… I don’t run a shop, I m a one man mobile diagnostic machine, my jobs are usually limited to 30-40 minutes, and usually are quite technical, since I deal with shops only… normally, I would get to the bottom of things, but in this particular case, the shop only wanted to get it started… they spent a lot of money on parts with no result, once I got it to start, they told me that that’s all they needed… I was happy to oblige… :)) on the technical note, I jumped a ground that is supposed to be there, ground is a ground is a ground (I never understand this idiom), so, for the purpose of this repair, I did ok… thank u for watching …

I doubt it, although it’s a fresh look at the situation… :))

Yes, it did… they changed the battery, also… make sure u don’t have a blown fuse in IPDM… I draw from all of it now that a shorted out battery caused the issue, but in my case, the fuse was NOT blown… I hope it helps… thank u

Most welcome

Ell generator cambiado- todo bueno, Los signales fue mala porque ell generator hace surges…

If the trunk switch is in the door, then, yes, it does affect it…

@@alexblok883 thanks so much I appreciate the quick reply. U rock!

I have dealt with this model a few times, once it had a wiring issue, once - bad tranny, which was not bad after all, a few times - bad HIGH Voltage battery… in your case, may I suggest that you check your charger for appropriate charging voltage, better check it with a scope… lately, the market is full of cheap battery chargers that are literally kill cars electronics by supplying unregulated voltage up to 17-18 volts and not only that , the voltage is surging… on the scope, it looks like a pulsating voltage of high frequency… if that’s the case, get rid of the charger and try to charge your 12 volt battery with another car and booster cables… clear the codes and try starting from scratch… I will do some more research on the issue and get back to u… thank u for participating…

😂😂😂

Let me know what signals u are getting and which are missing…

Yeah, but before u buy one, it’s easy to check if it’s your problem… cool down the engine (about an hour), start it up and touch the egr valve… if it’s getting hot real fast - its leaky, it should be closed at idle and not allow any gasses to pass, so to speak … :))

Also, u can watch the data on your scanner and see if it’s partially open (off zero position)

@@alexblok883 i have a basic scanner with live data I'll have to see if it shows it, but what was puzzling is that the CEL goes on for a week, with misfire code, then it goes off. The only misfire i felt was with CEL on and at cold idle for about 30 seconds then it sounded like it runs ok but CEL stays on, somehow maybe a bit less torque when going uphill

Stand by, please… what are the results of your feeling the temperature of the valve at idle, please?

@@alexblok883 lol i didn't touch the gassy pipe yet, i just saw your video half an hour ago :==)

After market high pressure fuel pumps don’t work… everyone wants to save on this part, cause it’s crazy expensive from the dealer… but there a reason why expensive dealer pumps work and cheap imitations don’t … comes from experience…

I got feedback from the garage that I worked that car at… they replaced the pump, but the codes are still there… I will be there tomorrow morning to check it out… I will update this video as I work that issue…

Did u get thru with yours?

Thank u.. will do… keep watching, please…

I was not there for the fix, I think they changed the motor…

Thank u… although, I would prefer doing things the right way… this is a patch, not a fix… but it works, and there it goes…

?

That it needs an intake manifold seal to fix the vacuum leak… that’s all…

Yes, bad ignition switch… they changed it and called me back to lmk that it was ok after that…

Yes, a test light or a simple head light bulb, one wire to one leg of the fuse that blows, and the other wire to the other fuse leg… this way, the short will show as a bright light, while no short - no light or dim light… usually, the Nissan 3.5 power plant will blow a fuse for a burnt coil (unplug one by one) or a short near front cover (different fuse)… with the light in place, shake the harness and watch the light… happy hunting! P.S. the fuse has to be blown, and its only purpose there is to hold the wires securely… I usually take a wire and rap it around the fuse leg, one and another, and connect the light to those two wires… please , ask for clarification if not clear

Yes I'm working on a 2012 Nissan Maxima the EC fuse keep blowing once you start the car then the key light comes on so if I'm understanding you I put a wire on each side of the fuse and put my test light on the wire

Do I hook the light to the dead side of the fuse

@@MonteBlue-di2eo one wire to one side of the fuse, the other wire to the other leg… or wire to the dead side, the other to battery power…

@@MonteBlue-di2eo please, clarify the name of the fuse… EC - engine control?

Please clarify…

Yes, I let it go just the way u see it… the proper fix would be to trace the bad ground and fix it, but a lot of times I will go for the result

@@alexblok883 I tried it it didn’t work for me not sure what my issue is but it does start with a self powered scan tool

@@Asia423 all of the scan tools have the two ground pins connected inside, that is pin 4 and 5… by plugging it, u actually connect the two vehicle grounds together, that are grounded in two different spots… take a test light and check both grounds at DLC… try to see if the test light dims out on one of them two … that’s your bad ground… use diagrams to locate that ground and fix it… give me year make model if u need help locating the grounds

@@alexblok883 2000 Lexus RX300

@@Asia423 ok… I will look it up tomorrow morning…

It varies from about 400 psi at idle to about 2,000 psi under load … u can read it with the scanner… the solenoid that sits at the pump is there to adjust pressure depending on driving conditions… more on this, u can check the rail pressure by turning off the solenoid: unplug it not to damage the ecm, use two alligator clip wires to power up the solenoid and see the rail pressure when it’s on and when it’s off…

@@alexblok883 Thanks for your detailed reply and your videos about this problem. Seems to be a somewhat common issue for HP pump to fail on this generation of Accord.

@@alexblok883 I connected my scanner to my 2015 Accord that has about 96k miles. After reaching operating temperature and Idling got a reading of about 500 psi +/-. Never realized scanner would display this pid.

@@roberts1159 the high pressure system consists of high pressure mechanical pump, electronic control thru the solenoid mounted to the pump, and fuel rail pressure sensor for feedback which is what you are reading …

Yes, sir… the combination of two things, bad purge solenoid and mostly bad fuel… since they drained the tank and changed the purge solenoid in one shot, it’s impossible to say what fixed it… I think it’s 50/50 split between the two things I just mentioned… the reason they drained the tank was that the injectors were faulty covered with some bad deposit or debris…

I had another one just like that not too long ago… that one had a bad ECM that burnt because one of the coils bunt up… that one, the ecm was changed and all well… it was also a long story with many tries and failures before I got it right …

@@alexblok883 trying to figure mine out now. Cranks, but don’t start. Fuel control module didn’t fix it. Only code was for MAF.Replaced MAF sensor , still nothing. Smells like it’s flooding when trying to start. Doesn’t seem to be getting spark. The tach doesn’t move when cranking. I’m starting to think maybe a bad crankshaft position sensor.

@@JohnCapps check the rpm reading while cranking.. if it’s zero , chances are it is your bad crank sensor… also, could be a faulty crank sensor plug, pull on both wires gently to see that they don’t break right at the edge of the plug… DO NOT use aftermarket crank sensor, OEM only … I d like to scope the signals from the crank and cam sensors at the ECM to investigate the no spark situation… I do it in one of my videos, I will find it and mention it here…

Thank u for participating… I thought about it, since they changed both valve covers… you are absolutely right on this … but the engine ran fine after installing and the problem occurred on the second day…