Відео

where was this recorded?

Looks like a cool spot. :)

Nice flight! Good music.

i dont understand no leveling paper and with resin pool in place?

I nowadays use a different leveling method. I basically mounted a dial gauge upside down on a printed piece, and just measure the crap out of it. Using leveling like this, it reads +/- 0.1mm. For most resins that's totally fine by the ways. But I want it spot on... so I just take the lowest point, call that zero and continue until everything is zero. You won't get any better than that.

Thanks for this, used this to re-zero and relevel after adding a magnetic plate to the bottom of the build plate, worked fine!

Thank you ,with your version my printing do not have any problem like before ty

wait.. you add a .2mm gap fromt the fep to the bed then set it as Zero?

I was having the same problem on my anycubic photon mono 4k, each print was 0.3 mm smaller on z axis, with this method the z dimension is totally ok. Also resolved a bit of elephant foot i have on my prints. Thank you!

Tried this having randomly stumbled across your video .... Spot on. Good adhesion and resolved the huge elephant foot problem I was having. Thank you.

Thank you, it worked!!!

the recommended method of doing it on the screen with paper is completely bogus

Thanks.

Is there a specific reason why 0.3mm, and not say 0.2mm or 0.4mm?

I keep trying this and it hasn't worked for my mono X.

Instead of using the actual vat, I just use an old piece of FEP from my old, smaller printer. Same thicccness, but not risking ruining the FEP that’s already on the bat.

Great video! I tried to change the FEP on my Mono X but when I was installing it I lost one of the tiny screws that hold the FEP between the two aluminum frame pieces. Do you know where can I get those?

Be really careful doing that. It's the most common way to damage a fep sheet. Especially when you check to see if the fep slides at the end. The bottom of the standard anycubic build plate is soft, sanded, aluminum. It has lots of very sharp micro scratches in it under the best of circumstances. But if you've been scraping prints off it, then it can additionally have gauges and grooves in it that will scratch up your fep like little razor blades.

Something wrong here!!!!! If you manually move Z the optical sensor can't work, after homing again the platform get stuck on fep as it is Zero, 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔

Im trying this today, using anycubic eco resin (green) and with layer lock sheet on plate . Will update if the print fails..

El tío va y nivela la plataforma con vaso y el FEP puesto.... Increible

No way. I actually did this today after having so many failures setting my printer up! I just said let's set it with the fep, then just go up a few I guess. That's hilarious!

em... Not sure why you need to move Z up 0.3mm away?

Normal Paperleveling works just fine with mono x. No need to complexify things.

You pretty much HAVE to do it this way if you use a screen protector so it adjusts for the slightly raised vat - takes out all the guesswork you just have to be careful not to scratch the fep. I hope you put those vat screws back in before starting a print ;)

Be careful with step 6 thats an easy way to scratch you film, thats why the other methods use a sheet of paper

Do you screw the side pieces to the vat back on?

You don't zero it in (Z=0) once you get it screwed down!??!? Why???

My Mono X came with a sheet that said to use for levelling. this is a thick paper when measured is much thicker than the Fep. I levelled the plate with this sheet without the vat and when the Vat is I thand the plate homed the Vat moves.I'm in the UK the paper sheet supplied is the same thickness as 160 gsm licht card my replacement FEP is half as thick.

This is better than the flint read method... Too many sovol vats and gaskets lifting feps. This is the only way ive seen that takes this into account. Bro... Saw you unscrewing the vat and im like wtf?? And instantly jaw dropped. 🤙

Has anyone else had issues with the new Siraya Sculpt Ultra White sticking to their build plates? I had great performance with my Anycubic Photon and have 100's of hours of successful prints with that machine and this particular resin. I too had used the Flint method with the extra 0.3mm step up which worked perfectly every time. I've now upgraded to the Mono X and I still get great results but they are permanently bonded to the build plate. I mean really stuck requiring a chisel where I chip the attachments into a millions brittle fragments. I've reduced exposure times until it sticks to FEP instead. Obviously, not a solution. Also adjusted initial plate gap with no success using the 0.3mm gap. Going to flexible plate to try to solve. Are these build plates anodized? It seems like there is a fundamental issue with plate. The underside of resin base has what looks like a metal coating pulled off plate? Is it possible I'm tearing off oxide coating of aluminum? Sounds crazy, but true.

Genius!!

I had 10 successful prints on the Mono X. For that past 8 tries, I have the flat print shape stuck to the FEP each time. I've leveled the printer, installed new FEP twice. Increased my bottom level curing time but still no success. I'm at my wits' end here. Please help.

Won't it scratches the lcd screen?

With the paper method, i up the z axis the exact amount you done. I printed a 20x20 cube with only the paper distance and measured 19.71.. i relevel with that distance and the "elephant foot" is almost irrelevant!! Nice video 👍

thank you a lot, my first print got saved and it's was a mess almost broke the fep screen.... i redid the level with your method and it worked !!!

Ive been getting skin forming in my resin vat during each print. I suspected that it might be the build plate putting pressure on the lcd distorting the image... So When i leveled against some printer paper, I did a similar thing of raising it a few 0.1mm's... But did another print and still had skin... Maybe i need to raise it a little more but im running out of ideas. Do you know if your method fixes this?

thank you very much it worked perfectly.

Thanks for this, Frederick - my WhamBam flex plate arrived, and I know they recommend printing a 2.6mm spacer for the build plate before zeroing. Have you tried this Flint Read leveling method with a flex plate attachment? I would love to be able to set my Z without having to use the spacer, but thought I would ask!

What do you think of your printer? I was gunna buy one but went with an EPAX E10 instead.....trying to learn all the trix of the trade before it gets here.....

I tried this and it didn't help...

这种方法对于中间有凹陷缺陷的平台来说,简直是灾难

Currently waiting for mine. Any tips/links on how to calibrate use different resins on the mono x?

How did you get it so early? I've ordered mine Sep 10th and it says 45-60 days to delivery.

Could you measure the build plate? I want to order a slam bam plate but not sure if the Saturn plate would work