Відео

1983 is the best year of the '82-'85 W123's. Those 300D Turbo diesel's went through many changes over the model years regarding improving and adding to the complexity of the vacuum control system. With the vacuum system working properly, since it controls auto trans shifting, can turn your car from a snail to a rabbit. 1983 has the right amount of control to get things right IMHO.

Kent is great. He has shared knowledge and supported these diesels like few others have.

U alive? Hope all is well.

Very tight classy and not expensive.

Where are you located curious only because I want one. The car is simple and best wishes with the boys

like it ;)

I think you are in for a fun challenge. I too have an 83 300D turbo, and just picked up an 82 300TD in worse shape than yours, these are number 7 and 8 for me. I lost three when my barn burned to the ground in 2018. Have fun! Hal

Cheers to you on pulling another one of these automotive masterpieces back into the light! Marvelous machines through and through...best of luck!

ช่วยบอกราคามาด้วย

Had 2, prone to rust, engine is great.

Hope the project turned out successful. I have nearly the same wagon ( color and interior).

I’m still watching....and looking forward to how it goes. There are more of people like you out here. You are helping many. Thanks for starting this.

I assume you sold the car as there are no updates

How you do a video for the compression test.....

?

Check the vacuum lines for the transmission because the transmission on the 123 chassis works off of vacuum

My turbo was puking oil & car had no power when I got it initially. Like yours, turbo was worn out. The 85’s had a different turbo-a Garrett I think. Anyway, there was a specialty shop that does turbo rebuilding & I took mine there. They put in beefier bearings & turned up the boost/waste gate slightly.like you, my rusty manifold bugged me-I had mine ceramic coated-which looks like dark gray paint. (I had more $ then!) But as you’ll see-huge improvement w/a fresh turbo! Big job to tackle but you’re doing it!

So-my 10 yr old son & I just watched your first video. We sure hope you keep that wagon it’s a good one. I did exactly the same thing with my 85 wagon. I am a real moron when it comes to mechanical but lack of money and a pretty good shortlist for the car forced me to learn to do it myself. And I’ve done just about everything except rebuild the motor. We love this car and have about 400,000 miles on it no rebuild. They’re pretty easy to work on and parts are pretty available so stay at it and keep posting

The vacuum pump will need replacing and lines also too fix door locks and leveling system, its easy to work on. I own a 1983 240d purchased new, now only 160k, been sitti g forvyrs due to medical. Great cars, Mercedes didnt build junk.

What linkages or pieces did you remove to get the valve cover off? I have a 240D that I need to do the valve adjustment on and I’ve been procrastinating because I’m terrified of breaking or ruining something when I start to pull stuff apart.

Keep the video coming man! Just got a w123 myself and it’s gonna need some work. Your videos have helped!

Do you still have the car? I've got an 82 I've done a lot of work to. Hoping to have the engine put back together here soon.

your doing great ive been wrenching since i can remember and Mercedessource fills in the american>euro gap for me but if you can wrench at all ive made sense of everything hes said keep it up

what does deleting the EGR do ?

I generally never use an engine oil additive, however Engine Restore does work. Try it. Do a utube search and check out Project Farm's video.

The sad part is with these cars being 30 years old plus and having over a quarter million miles on most of them, parts are so seized up that they never seem to come apart like the manuals dictate. First I would recommend that you always have a can of brake clean at the house to clean your parts. PB blaster is great for rusted nuts and bolts but once the parts have been relocated to your parts tub, cleaning them with a strong can of brake clean is the best solvent to use. You will also need a nylon brush to scrub the parts that have the carbon buildup as that won't come clean with spraying along. Speaking of carbon buildup, any turbo motor should be using fully synthetic oil due to the high temps that cause that carbon coking. As you can see, your entire turbo stopped spooling because of it. Turbos run incredibly hot and conventional oil just can't handle the higher temps. Make sure you examine the veins of both turbo props. If even one vein is bent, broken or distorted it needs to be replaced. I personal love that you painted the exhaust manifolds since it makes them look neat and tidy rather than rusty and old. Keep up the fine work and before long the car will be running like new.

I think it's awesome that you're repairing your cars the right way. In your case, removing the entire turbo was definitely the right move. I love hearing your real experiences from Mercedessource because it gives us other subscribers levels of expectations that are realistic. Your really doing a quality job cleaning everything while the parts are disassembled. Love the video and update.

Hey man, thanks for the update. Was beginning to wonder what happened to the wagon. Amazed that you’re tackling the turbo rebuild yourself as I wouldn’t have a clue, instructions or not. I doff my cap to your superior technical skills sir! If I may make a suggestion, if the turbo on the wagon is healthy may I suggest that you swap the turbo from the wagon onto the sedan? Should keep your daily driver on the road and this will give you the luxury of time to rebuild the turbo without the ticking clock. Might even give you more time to enjoy some more leisure time on your week off. It’s just a suggestion as I know from experience that when you rush something you’re more likely to cut corners or make a mistake and could end up costing you more time and money in the long run. That’s just my human experience and in no way is a reflection of your work ethic. From what I know with turbos is that any problem with them usually ends up in a catastrophic mess and big bills. Another great video, keep ‘em coming.

Just drive the car, I've got an old 83, has a lot of blow by, but she starts every day in the winter here in Alaska, it has never let me down. I only drive her in the winter as she has rust, but what a trooper to say the least.... I do all the maintaince on it, put almost 20,000 on , her, paid $800, love it ;-)

Congrats on your 300TD Wagon, I'm slightly Jealous. I Myself own an 83 240D I've had for a little over 2 Years. I'll Keep watching you and see how things go with your cars. I've done some of the things you are planning to tackle. They are simple cars.

Honestly not sure you need the compression test. That car shows very little blow-by and a stable shake. I would do a compression test if the engine shook heavily, had bad blow-by or had issues starting under 30 degrees. If u do the test, change out the heat shields and rubber threaded fuel lines that run between injectors. You jump the starter by using a remote starter connected to 2 of the 3 nuts in front of the battery.

Looking forward to ur videos. Non-orginial key and wheels fyi. 500k mile beauty!

Just curious, were the valves very far out of adjustment?

Before you sink money into this, take Kent Bergsma's advice and FIRST do a valve lash adjustment so that you can, SECOND, do an accurate compression test. If the compression is bad, walk away.

Excellent news on the blowback, can’t wait for the vid on the compression test. Keep ‘em coming 😃

You are definitely on the right track as far as letting the compression determine if you keep the car or not. Glad to hear from somebody that has used Kent's wrenches as it gives us all proper feedback. If you do decide to keep the car(due to good compression) I know I would be more than happy to donated some needed parts that may help the restoration. I don't own Mercedes Benz but do come across parts for them online and at regional salvage yards from time to time. Hope others can provide support too.

waiting for your work

Love the car! That's serious miles even for a diesel W123, but this one looks very clean for the miles. As long as the body isn't too rusty it's well worth the effort to fix it. The high miles makes it even more fun to fix up.

a few more things.. I would have your friend that owns the shop do the rear SLS. Unless you feel comfortable about that. I think that is a good ideal to change the brakes hoses lines is good thing. I would change the pads and rotors since you have it up. Also if you have a harbor freight near by you can get a good 1.5 ton aluminum floor jack there. I got one on sale for $59.99. be nice to invest in a air compressor, they have great shop lighting, great cheap tools, floor jacks etc. if you dont have one they ship also.

Steering damper you can do yourself. Really easy. It is like a small shock absorber, i think it has 2 bolts. Also when you get to your rust patches and fix them up.. You should get a qt. of miracle paint and put that on when you finish getting the rust off. that door slider that is broken on the back passenger door is easy to fix but need to take the panel off. Kent has some videos on it or search youtube. I am jealous cause I want to take on a project like this. :D

Hey great video... I agree with one of the other comments below... definitely research on the proper way to do a valve adjustment so that you can do an accurate compression test. This test will give you a good indication on the overall health of the engine since the mileage is high. Nothing would suck more than buying all these parts only to find out the engine is warn on its way out!

Dream car, in a manual God willing.

These Transmissions are very sensitive to vacuum leaks. Vacuum as you may know is very important with these cars. Before servicing your transmission, verify that you have absolutely no vacuum leaks. One small we can affect the transmission shifting abruptly as you sayua-cam.com/video/95xoMxU3N_Q/v-deo.html

I have an 85 300CD. I get a lot of my parts from Autohausaz.com. I watch every episode Kent makes.

Concerning the abrupt changing of gears from first to second in the transmission, try the following (it may seem wordy but hang in there with me please). Under the driver side, located just beneath the shift selector area there is a valve on the side of the transmission. This valve has a soft black or gray rubber cup type cover. Gently pry off this cover and then pull out the recessed bar inside. This bar is 'T' shaped, turn it counterclockwise(as if you are slackening a bolt) to decrease or soften the abrupt gear change. Based upon what you have said it may take between five to seven counterclockwise turns. This works for both the car and the estate/wagon. Upon completion slide the bar back inside and place the rubber cap on. Drive and test to see how your adjusted transmission is changing gears. This solution worked for me on my '87 300TD wagon, to stop the abrupt and harsh shifting from first to second gear. Best of success with all of your project work.

Hey man, would seriously recommend a compression test BEFORE you do anything else to save yourself a lot of time and money. And emotional heartache. If you have poor compression then you’re probably looking at a full engine rebuild/overhaul which would typically cost thousands and make the project unfeasible. A simple test is to unscrew the oil cap on the top of the engine and rest it on the opening to see how much - if at all - it bubbles and jumps. If you have a dancing cap, you know you’re in trouble, but if it rests quietly, then you should be in good shape. Regardless, I would strongly recommend a compression test as Kenneth White has suggested. Speaking as a project manager by profession, I would encourage investment of a large whiteboard for the garage and develop some swim lanes e.g. “Awaiting parts, In progress, Needs testing” etc Get some Postit notes with the task name on it so you can move it from lan to lane. maybe getting too geeky here and I don’t want to take the fun out of it since its not work right? It’s supposed to be a hobby/fun. However, I would definitely recommend planning pre-requisites for the all the jobs you’ve got listed since it may prevent you from having to do re-work. So a general rule of thumb my be that if you have to do more than 5 major jobs on the engine and gearbox, it will probably be easier and cheaper to remove the entire engine and gearbox and then work on them. It will also help you plan and budget since a list of parts and their prices should help you now what sort expenditure you’re likely to face rather than it being a surprise/shock later on. Don’t know about the US but in Europe, those flat face 15 hole alloys are getting quite rare now and are commanding a premium. If you could clean those up and sell them, that might fund one or two of the major jobs on your list, and they’re wrong for that car anyway. Don’t know how much of a purist you are but the correct alloys are the “Mexican hat” alloys that you have on the sedan. Whilst you’re working on the car steel wheels should suffice, freeing up some cash. Also, halogen spotlights on stands are quite cheap and do an excellent job. If you’re moving stuff around the garage, one of the best pieces of advice I’ve ever had was to run extension cables along the ceiling and have the sockets hanging down. This saves a massive headache with cables dragging along the floor. I like to do a bit of detailing as well and having cables dragging on a wet floor and then over the car is a major ball-ache. Just thought I’d share that with ya! Have fun and give that dog a big hug, hope they both get better soon. Peace and love from London

I subscribed too, another musician here, had an 84 TD sedan, great cars. Check your vac pump and lines. I still watch Kent's vids. Have fun!

I am in complete agreement with you, once bitten by the W123 bug , we are their servant. I hope you enjoy the next year which will most likely be two years. But you will find lots of support from us all on the web.

Hi, I am in Australia, have a 1978 300D exactly same color. Has been in dry storage for 15 years. Has 220,000 Klm showing which from enquirers is genuine, clear coat is milky in parts. Started it up after all usual oil and filter changes. Unfortunately has a blowby in the sump . Either rings are glugged up or it has bore glaze., which I think is the latter problem. Short trips by previous elderly owner. Lots of idling. Interior is excellent . I also had to purchase a 1976 240D along with it as they came as a pair. Owner had inherited them, and put them in storage for which he was paying rent on. My problem is the 240 has a few dings on the body, (belonged to the wife) but has only 160,000klm on clock. Interior immaculate. Motor runs sweet. Horrible yellowish green color, ( baby you know what color) What do I do???? Make one out of two. . I also own a 81 230e. A sweet runner with 350,000 on the clock. It is my club car. So I could also make two beauties out of three. But my conscious of parting out one of the cars is my barrier.

Watch this entire series if you have not. ua-cam.com/video/BSTtMl9HCDc/v-deo.html