Відео

Nice. 60v must be nice, even though I tried 48v on my bike and what i found is that the pedaling cadence is a bit high for my liking, and 36v is best/is what the motor & gearing was designed for. for a throttle it is okay but you'll have a problem when using the torque sensor I think.(you have to pedal very fast to reach max speed) Let me know how it works out. Good luck.

Hi, So sorry to hear that. I do have a d6c that has the same problem. I changed a certain chip(i forget the name cx9*** or somethinglike that) that's supposed to be responsible for tape speed. So I bought one on ebay. But after the repair it was still playing at high speed. So I never got around to checking it again. The problem occurs as far as I know when you plug in a 6v adapter with inverse polarity from what the device requires, these particular models use the infamous "6v center negative ". Maybe check the adapter with a multimeter just to confirm. I hope you can find some help on YT or other forums, because I was planning to make a repair video for it but don't count on me, it's gonna be a while. Please let me know if you fix it. Good luck.

Hi, Sorry I haven't filmed the modification of the battery. I don't recommend people with no electrical/electricity experience modifying their ebike batteries in their home. Risk of fire is always present and some care and caution are needed. I'm sure you can find someone who can do the work if you show them tbe video and explain what you need. Good luck.

Ok, good to know. About the mechanical parts maybe you can find some shop that manufactures small parts. I know that small plastic gears are sold for hub motors so maybe with alot more searching on the internet you can find them for this one. Good luck.

@@theelectronage It look like parts of the internal bearing what i found inside one of my engines, all bearings should be standard. I only need to find way to take out that big cog wheel. I recommend to get some sort of chain guard or anything that block tiny gap between motor and front cog wheel. If your chain fall out of front cog wheel, it is immediately stuck in that gap, scratching aluminum engine cover (yes, chain fit inside this gap) and it is very difficult to get it out on the road - whole bike propelling system is seized. If that happen and you are able to fix the bike, do not shift to 3-4 largest gears on the derailleur, chain will fall out again. Pedal home and fix derailleur, there is something wrong with it if chain keep falling out of front cog wheel.

@petrberanek4230 thanks for the tip, i see what you mean. It didn't happen to me yet.

That's what I was going for. You have a great day.

Hi, The original cable for this Walkman goes for 100 bucks or more on ebay. On the other hand I have seen a usb mod for the cradle on YT if you do have one. Good luck.

It is not for you. You need to be at least a neanderthal to get it, judging from your profile picture you're not there yet.

@@theelectronage I think even a neanderthal would know better than to do this hahaha

Hi, First of all you shouldn't connect the two batteries with the bypass connected( if the 2nd battery is more charged than the bosch .) Otherwise it isn't an issue. We connected to the bosch before the bms and we didn't touch the bosch balancing wires, so the bosch bms isn't aware of the 2nd battery, only the bosch.

Nice. If everything goes right your grand children's grand children will have a good working d6c with parts to spare.

Forgot about it already :)

Hi, First try and clean the inside of the headphones port with a mini file or something similar. Soldering is also doable if that's the problem, just use flux and clean with alcohol after. Good luck.

It's possible! I think the problem is that the glue that holds the cable of the display contacts and the contacts of the control board has simply dried out from time and it needs to be peeled off, wipe the contacts and glue again

Hi, how's it going? Sorry I don't have this discman anymore. Good luck with the repair.

It makes sense but I couldn't tell you. As you saw on the video there are signs of life on the display, but having no prior experience with lcds I didn't want to add to the problem. Please comment if you were able to fix it. Have a good one.

Yes there's a way. You need to provide 5v on one pin of the battery. I don't remember which one you have to test the original charger.

For sure. I'll take some time to respond though, but I will. Good luck.

@@theelectronage Great thanks i'll try to be succinct: The assist on pedaling doesn't work The walk mode doesn't work too > might not be the torque sensor as suspected? Battery provides 36V > ok Display > ok light turn on and off, walk mode displayed when activated... Speed sensor > ok speed is displayed. No sensors on the brakes that can prevent the assist Inside no visible damage on the cables or components (capacitors not expanded) Tested conductivity between 3 phases > ok i'm a bit out of idea of what test to do next. Thanks again !

@@mrkioui3004 Hi, So there's not much to go on. The only thing out of place that I can think of is the walkassist logo that shows up, normally you need to hold the button. So it could be a bad display(or just button) but these displays are "unopenable" in an attempt to make them water proof. But i doubt that you'll find a display but you can try with the manufacturer, but again this is to find or eliminate the problem so.. It's also weird that it doesn't show an error code which favors the display walk assist button problem . If you can't find a display, i encourage you to buy a VESC, which is way better than your average Chinese ESC. My last video shows how I implemented it with my bosch ebike. The advantage you have I think is that you can keep the bike as is so that you'll have a speedometer and light control, but again you need to try to see if it'll work normally after disconnecting the phases and hall wire. Contact me if you get somewhere( without the vesc). Good luck.

@@theelectronage Thank for the answer! the walkassist only show when i push the button. but the display has some scratch on it so it might be a good idea to test another one. I'll check your video about the vesc. Thanks again !

Hi, Maybe look on aliexpress or similar for a cd spindle, or if you can find a parts unit that would be best. Good luck.

Hi, The bosch battery won't turn on unless connected to the bike both power and data. But if your goal is to use it as a power bank there's a go around, you buy a buck converter ideally with under voltage protection, set it to the right values but you have to connect it directly to the battery +/- tabs inside the battery. And you can charge your battery normally with a bosch charger, and you have the output voltage you want. Good luck.

Very good idea thanks alot! I will try that

Hi, Sorry I'm very busy at the moment. Besides unless you're local I'd rather not. Good luck.

Also I can confirm via my stereo that it is not the disc that's broken. I don't know if the lens detects a disc for the "disc" message to popup or if it's more simple than that, but the 3 guesses I have right now is broken motor, broken wires or broken lens (and I do not particularly wanna try replace the lens)

Hi, Sorry for the late reply. As you described the problem, if it's broken wire it should be the best case scenario as some soldering will solve the problem. I personally don't think it's the motor, because it's really hard to break a motor unless there's a problem with the IC driving it. If it's a laser problem, as a last resort you can try to adjust the laser power by turning the screw that adjusts it, I don't have this discman anymore so I'm not even sure if it has an adjustment screw. That's all I can think of. Hope it helps. Good luck.

Hello friend, Thanks for sharing your memories with me. Have a good one.

Hi, This isn't for everyone. My reason is not to buy 2 extra batteries that I'll need to carry around on the rack otherwise why have them. and as it happened I found a very good 1kwh battery for dirt cheap, so 50 bucks instead of north of 1k euros for the same combined capacity of 2 boschs. And I carry it on my top tube so my rack is free for other stuff. And of course the advantage range of 150km give or take. I don't recommend this if you're not a bit familiar with electricity. Good luck.

Yeah, for sure. I didn't have the right tools.

Hi, Sorry I don't have the dimensions for you. I buy the belts on aliexpress, I buy an assortment of belts and choose the right size when I have the device in front of me. Good luck.

THANK YOU. good luck with your insurance business and industry specifications.

Yeah, but this is not for everyone.

Just so you know, it's very hard to destroy a bldc motor, (except with too many Amps for long time)so when you find a cheap ebike that's supposedly out of service, you can in 95% of cases put in a new controller, and with a good battery of course and it'll run.

I did the same to a bosch bike using a vesc, I'll upload the video soon.

No, this controller goes as fast as the battery allows. You can limit the speed by using your gears.

Hi, how's it going. This particular controller doesn't have a temperature sensor. I don't think you really need one as long as you test your bike in different temperature conditions and see how's it doing just by touch. If it's too hot to touch you probably shouldn't continue.

Depending on the error you have, you might be able to keep the bosch electronics for speed and milage monitoring, and run the motor with a VESC.

Yes, of course. This isn't for everyone anyway.

Hi, sorry for the late reply. Regarding the first note, yes I may have gotten the diode working conditions wrong, but everything's in the datasheet. I was kind of worried about the heat dissipation,and was contemplating doubling the diodes just to make sure, but after I opened it, believe me I've done more than 1k km by the time I opened it to check in real world conditions ( temps from 0c°-35c° and hills that sometimes go for 10km) but everything's okay. Of course don't take my word for it. This isn't for everyone anyway, and the more you know the safer you are.

On your second note, Yes indeed you are right and I missed it. The second battery could be able to discharge into the bosch, however, I always only connect them when fully charged, and after that even when you put the bypass in place you can be sure they're at the same voltage. But good catch. Thank you.

Concerning your 3rd point, Yes the BMS does measure the amps going through it, but at least this 2nd gen motor I have isn't that smart, because with the extender it still gives you a battery reading and range(based on 500wh) but doesn't know that something is wrong after you consume 500wh, it just sees the battery voltage runs down very slowly. I don't know about the new so called Bosch smart system.

And for the last point you got it. I did try first by connecting them outside the Battery, but it throws an error from time to time, then I would have to disconnect, shut/Start the bike, connect them again and you're good for a while. I didn't care for it.

Hi, What do you mean tiled cd clamp? The round spindel with little balls that hold cd?

Yes, it’s wobbly when the cd is playing

@@shashwatkumar7718 hi, I'm quite sure it isn't the motor shaft that's bent. Check if the motor is connected correctly in place. Good luck.

Hi, I'm not really sure, but it has something to do with a lever not in its place. I do have 2 of D6Cs to repair, when I open one of them I'll have it in mind to check the problem. Good luck.

Hi, All on Aliexpress or similar. Good luck.

@@theelectronage Thank you!

Hi, Thank you for your kind words. Have a good one.