Відео

the panel is flexible. Pried it out carefully with a plastic tool

Id try the compressor method like I did, but I guess if that doesnt work, try glue or loctite on the bolt, let it set and see if you can get it to back out?

bro let dude enjoy doing what he likes doing aint nobody "copy cat" nun🤦‍♂️

sure whatever that is

there are kits to put the LS into the Hmmwv, grind hard wasn't the first. its been done since the LS and Hmmwv were available

No complaints. Still work as good as new and are super bright

@@sdalin27 would u recommend this to ur friends and family??

@@toyotabrony ​​⁠yeah for sure. Would buy again if I were bgoing to add lights

Thanks. Tamco carpathian gray. I need to re clear coat though. Mixed the clear incorrectly so it didn’t build as deep

The humvee body is aluminum so you could ground to the steel frame, but the stock body harness brings everything back to the battery, so I home run all grounds to a ground bus bar. The pump power that makes it pump fuel is off of the ECU harness and coordinated by the engine computer. My sender power is its own line which can be any 12v source. I ran individual power and ground to the sender, and also to the gauge if I remember correctly because I was seeing the gauge move depending on subtle voltage variation when it was sharing another system's ground or power wire. Basically a power and ground to each item. The fuel pump power comes from the ECU

Ah okay, yeah. I wonder if I have to go to the ground of the universal dash, to complete the circuit to get the ohms. Or straight to the battery, if that makes sense

@@DCValiant68 usually you can share a ground. I.e. most cars ground to the body or frame which is conductive and has a connection to the negative battery terminal, so it brings it back to the battery and completes the circuit. With the sender though, I ran a dedicated ground wire back to my main ground bus bar which is connected to the negative battery terminal. When i originally set it up as a shared ground, I was getting unstable fuel level readings due to interference from the other devices on the ground.

Yes. best to go direct to the wires that go into the seat motor incase the switch is part of a circuit board with resistors or computer a board or something. Avoid the yellow ones as those are the airbag system.

it had its stock flywheel and was going to use a remote PS pump corvette style if I remember right, but sold the engine before I got that far and installed a Gen 5 LT

the one that comes with this pump. www.amazon.com/dp/B014HB983M?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details. The gauge has a variety of settings which is done analog with a screwdriver to set the correct impedance range your sending unit produces. ua-cam.com/video/ZlvWS9y3wXM/v-deo.html

Wow that’s pretty funny. Bet that was surprising!! Did you do that touching the yellow airbag system plug or something else? I popped one in my bmw seats like that. Gets your attention!

@@sdalin27 exactly that, afterward unwrapped the wire cover just to find out I touched it with the yellow wire, ever since then I’m terrified of the yellow wires

Good news is usually they’re on a separate plug but I guess if it’s destroyed already it’s more of a guessing game

Sure! Been meaning to do a complete state of the union in the whole thing. I’ve heard “air drop bars”.. sure. They also are tall and wide which means a strong vertical beam which probably was needed for attaching weapons and ambulance bodies to a solid wide base on a truck where the frame is about 4 feet wide. I wasn’t born when they designed it so I missed that meeting. :) I’m sure they are better to have than not have in a t bone, but this thing isn’t designed for that either. My year of almost daily driving with no cross bars tells me they don’t matter for a road and light trail going machine, so my advice if you want some legroom is to take them out. I’d do it again the same way and twice in Sunday

@@sdalin27 I appreciate it. Do you think welding in metal on the frame is needed? Do you feel like rock crawling would be a issue. I plan on doing a pickup style build

@@andrewsmith9980 I dont think so because it doesnt do anything in aid of the frame for strength. The body is supported only at the body mounts.. maybe it rests on the crossbeam under the tunnel. I don't remember. Bending of the frame could translate to the body, but if the frame is stiff, not much should happen. You could argue the crossbeam adds a trussing effect to the body for twisting, then from side to side for the B pillars which would be most important if you had an enormous roof rack loaded with hundreds of points. For me, I'll take the legroom and if the body moves around a bit, it's elastic and it'll come back where it was when it gets on all fours.

Yes you are correct. Has been completely useless for the last year as a near daily driver. thank you for your experience and wisdom

After I saved the fifth value the car went into action leveling and correcting ride height. It also cleared jack mode. I didn’t do anything with value 6. If it doesn’t work start at the beginning again. You can’t skip ahead and have to go 1-4 then 5. I had to re do it a bunch of times before it held the signal and everything was input correct. Part of that was not knowing I needed to save a fifth value though too

@sdalin27 do you recall if the vehicle was turned on or in accessory mode? I was able to get into the values and input them once but now it keeps telling me me signal is out of range and doesn’t let me back in to input values. (was doing this before i was able to get in the 1 and only time)

@@Klast94 I think it was running and not in accessory mode. Don't remember for sure but I had that issue too wit the computer going to sleep

I rewired the whole car. The turn signals are queued by paddle shifters on a Jaguar F Pace steering wheel.. which triggers an Arduino computer to do signals/brake lights and apply flashing with computer logic. These lamps were single wire brights which was a pain, because the brake signal and turn signal needed to power the same wire. If you find a turn signal switch you could use it that way I guess. It was not easy to sort due to the shared bright wire and logic set.

The tiniest! Nice work!

No. FWIW it also is not perfect air tight so I have to be careful not to overfill, or it'll leak on the tank via the pump or plate joint

Ok good to know. I just put a new tank in mine and had to remove the sending check valve since it was clogged up. Going to run it without since it seems to be holding prime.

It was precarious and it’s a sequential maneauver. You’re trapped there until you work your way back out. It sucks.

​@@sdalin27I was somehow able to do it without removing the intake manifold. Patience was key

I have not. I am planning to replace all 4 corners with an air suspension using LR4 Landrover parts because the smaller springs have made my payload capacity super weak

Gotcha. I already installed the two front springs and even after cutting a 1/3 of a coil they’re still too long. The springs look like they want to pop out. So what I thought about doing was installing the rears and dropping the truck on all four tires. Drive it around for a little and see how the springs look after. If they steal look like they want to pop out I’ll just go ahead and fabricate some new spring seats for the front. I’m going to attempt to install the rear springs without cutting them. I just need to buy the different style spring seats like the ones that you have on your truck. So aside from the payload capacity how did you like the way the springs feel? Didn’t really make that much of a difference in the payload capacity? I’m not planning on towing anything but I do have two 42s spares and a jack along with a winch in the back.

man, that is some terrible news

Thanks. I think so but I'm not sure on the cutoff for height. I guess I'd do a relative percentage of what was taken off the rear when compared to the original rear

Do you have more info regarding, if its same coil spring as Pathfinder and Armada etc. I am in Europe, so no Armada here..

No I dont. somewhere in the video it compares the stock with armada spring wire (.81") diameter. Maybe is a place to start. Could also look at Armada GVRW and find something in a similar weight class. There's a lot of science to spring rates etc, but at this stage its best approximation with experimentation @@Stigman11