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send me a video demonstration of what you've got going on. i'm no mechanic but hopefully we can walk things through i've never had any screens o slats aside from manufacturer's installed; the top feed is for leaves & branches, side feed i use for branches up to 1" thick

sorry, wrong video. try this instead ua-cam.com/video/Vg-bn4nLYlE/v-deo.htmlsi=xXkM5lAZ09Qe71cT

i have another for $200. let me know if you live in San Francisco CA and we can meet up

Rustoleum Stops Rust sunrise red & black. make sure to wire brush & prime first www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-12-oz-Custom-Spray-5-in-1-Gloss-Sunrise-Red-Spray-Paint-376899/323255174 www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-12-oz-Flat-White-Clean-Metal-Primer-Spray-7780830/100143442

problem was not my voltage. problem was me not striking at a correct angle. was using my left hand instead of my right. also because the plate may not have been properly warmed up either.

worked when i tested it in this video. i sold it a week ago

probably not... 😭your best bet is to fabricate your own or buy a new one. if you still have them in tact, hopefully you can just sharpen it. chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/www.gardentractortalk.com/d3/downloads/monthly_04_2020/8fe3ff4612bc75f94c09b9c27e849ea0-roto-hoe-500-800-2000-series-chipper-sheredder-owners-and-parts-manual.pdf

two terminals should direct power from the switch to the transformer, two terminals should be for the two 120v's. if your power cord is a NEMA 6-50 or 10-50, just connect the two 120's to the leads; it'll only short if you cross the 120's together without connecting to the leads. more info here weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/28973-Montgomery-Wards-PowerKraft-240-Hookup

lovely machine. i'd hate to let it go, but no room, plus i have an idealarc 250 ac/dc

yep. i think i found instructions on the inside panel copyrighted to 1966? i'll have to check again when i open her up and blow the dust out

oh boy, it's been a long while since i had mine. douse the handle with wd-40 where it contacts, and try unscrewing it in typical counter-clockwise fashion. use this video for further guidance ua-cam.com/video/2Ud110ZT-hY/v-deo.html

at 4:23 in this video ua-cam.com/video/CwV4gChtDiI/v-deo.html it's a non-threaded connection. again, douse it with wd-40 (but don't get any on the electrical terminals or transformers) and just wiggle that boy until it comes free

@@fong.justinm thanks for the video. I took all the screws out of the cover and peek in and saw that its on a treaded bolt. sprayed more wd40. will try later after a couple of more wd 40 applications. Thanks for answering my comment. The welder is from 1973 as per Miller website.

well, those in fabrication recommend getting multiple grinders for productivity. can't afford several makitas/milwaukees, but a little bit of grease inside the gearhousing of these HF should do. i have another video where i explain how to loosen the screws using acetone/brake cleaner

@@fong.justinm I have been doing fabrication for years, and my father he is a master fabricator and a journeyman with over 50 years of experience. Between him and I we probably have 4 grinders for fabrication work. The real trick is just not needing to use them. I watch some of these how to weld classroom guys on UA-cam and they wouldn't last 5 minutes on a construction welding job and would get ran out of a fabrication shop because sure it might work in a classroom yet in the real world it just doesn't work that way. One angle grinder, basic tools, files, a cutting torch setup, stick machine, tape measure, and just keeping it simple you can fabricate anything you want. Tig machine or as I call them a heliarc they are nice yet oxy acetylene you can do a whole lot with gas welding. Guys welded everything with stick and gas for many years they fail to mention that these days. Good fit up work, taking your time, and just enjoying it is what I think matters. I got burned out on it years ago and went to sewing I still do welding and fabrication work just not like I did when I was younger. I really like seeing someone like yourself using the equipment that built a lot of things and enjoying themselves. Thanks 👍

just got a lincoln welding rod oven for $60 back in june this year, and like you said, keeping it in the oven, the arc starts easier & rod burns better. i don't weld enough to justify an expensive one i have heard though, that if you want to dissipate moisture, you can purposely stick the rod for a few seconds as that heats up the rod and evaporates moisture that way

​@@fong.justinmThat is a great deal for a rod oven. I have had a small oven that I used to use on jobs that I occasionally plug in. As for doing the stick and warm up yes I have done that before. Another trick is toss a big silica bag in a box that will dry it out. What I like about silica bags is you can dry them in an oven and keep re using them.

never had an AC-225, so i wouldn't be able to tell you (even though they're all over craigslist). they're hobby welders so it doesn't matter, they're all the same to me. people who know more might be able to help you here: www.google.com/search?q=are+thunderbolt+225+transformer+copper+or+aluminum&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS940US940&oq=are+thunderbolt+225+transformer+copper+or+aluminum&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i160l2.8599j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

with the lincoln AC-225, you don't have precise amp increments - you just snap the switch into the pre-determined settings like 40, 60, 75 etc. All the welders i've ever owned - wards powr kraft, miller 225, Lincoln Idealarc 250/250 - had infinite amp control - you wind the heck out of it, but you can fine-tune your settings if you actually care about the appearance & penetration of your beads. You can just rub some lucas oil grease on the screw shafts & shunt blocks and it's good to go. just don't get any on the contact terminals.

@@fong.justinm Dialectic silicone tune up grease or better yet CRC plastic safe electronic lubricant in the little blue can. You really don't want any oil in these machines that will get gummy. Good old Lily White Sewing machine oil is a good choice too.

I have a Lincoln AC 225 and they are an excellent machine. The adjustment is fine people who say that just haven't had the experience of running old machines. Your Lincoln will strike an arc easier than a AC Miller Thunderbolt and they are a little easier to weld with. Lincoln they were more commonly available everywhere plus more affordable new. Miller and Airco were expensive and basically the Snap On status of the bunch. Now as for better they are all excellent machines built to last a lifetime. As long as you don't run an ArcAir, never switch amp settings under load, and avoid using your machine to thaw out frozen steel water pipe your machine will be around forever if you take care of it.

Both are great welders I own a Miller Thunderbolt with a Miller TC150 D/C converter and it has more Amp fine tune adjustment but I see way more Lincoln Tombstone's around. Both will lay a decent A/C bead but expect more splatter than an arc welder equipped to run D/C.

not with this machine, it's AC only. you'll need a DC machine like the idealarc 250 if you peruse my channel. you'll want to use 4043 Aluminum, and even then it's real tough to use so i heard. most guys who weld aluminum use TIG method, which is a whole other animal.

@@fong.justinm thank you very much, my brother

They make aluminum welding rod for AC stick welders. It works good, but you'll want to try at least 3 different brands, because it's hard to learn, and some rod works better than others. They also make really good aluminum brazing rod. The best brand to buy is the stuff at Lowes or Home Depot called "Bernzomatic" brand aluminum brazing rod. Also Harbor Freight "alumaweld" is really good. Search Amazon for "Bernzomatic AL3 aluminum brazing rod." So the brazing rod, you clean the aluminum, then heat it with a propane torch lightly, to 750F degrees, and you effectively solder the aluminum together, but it's incredibly strong. It's not as pretty, but it can be filed and polished and would form a seamless weld bead, but about 50% less strong than a weld.

@@Ritalie mm. i'll look into it. all the other youtube vids i've ever watched tell me that aluminum is DC, but then again i'm a welding NOOB.

@@Ritalie Thank you very much brother for your help. It helped me a lot

I should have. the local caster place had given me some freebies before so I wanted to do them a favor in return. The welder has been sold so that's history now.